Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Climb the grassy wall to a tree stump at the start of the right facing corner - care needed to avoid some blocks just below the tree stump. Follow the corner to the top. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chris_Burgess | 3 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Block from route at quarter way, at the start of the crack, fallen down. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Block from route at quarter way, at the start of the crack, fallen down. |
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| George Hughes | 10 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Loose blocks gave way last night. Bailed off a gold cam. Route now probably a tad harder. Would be nice to have my cam back.... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loose blocks gave way last night. Bailed off a gold cam. Route now probably a tad harder. Would be nice to have my cam back.... |
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| Jem Cowen | 21 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Dead tree stump at bottom of corner had become rotten and was releasing dangerous rock. Both now removed. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Dead tree stump at bottom of corner had become rotten and was releasing dangerous rock. Both now removed. |
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| PaulJepson | 2 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Owl potentially nesting on adjacent route 02/04/21. Please avoid. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Owl potentially nesting on adjacent route 02/04/21. Please avoid. |
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| Sue Hasel | 18 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: My first HS and a cracking route, easy to protect and no polish, yet. Delicate feet needed in the middle section of the slab and some nice jamming. The belay stance is a tad cosy, some improvisation was needed for the second. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: My first HS and a cracking route, easy to protect and no polish, yet. Delicate feet needed in the middle section of the slab and some nice jamming. The belay stance is a tad cosy, some improvisation was needed for the second. |
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| teebee1805 | 7 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Getting quite loose with the big tree at ~1/2 height rotten on likely to give out if man handled. Finished to the left, felt safer. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Getting quite loose with the big tree at ~1/2 height rotten on likely to give out if man handled. Finished to the left, felt safer. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Left Hand Route
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wintour's Leap)