40m.

Rockfax Description
A technical start leads to a flake then back right to a ledge. Climb a groove above then move up left to another groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start 10 metres or so left of 'Tambourine Man' A technical and steep crimpy start gains a large flake before heading back rightwards to gain a small ledge at the base of the huge slab above. Crimp and rockover upwards until it is possible to launch up the first of 2 tube like grooves. At the top of the first tube, traverse out leftward to the base of the second tubular groove. Chain bolt belay and flake thread at the top.

Ian Lloyd-Jones 21/Jun/2018

Ticklists

All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+, Rarely repeated Slate Sport 7's, Sl@teheads Sl@te

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Sl@te Head 8 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Originally climbed directly up from the ledge before traversing to gain the tubular groove I.e, no use if the lower blocks. Probably 7a+ if climbed this way and 7a if using the lower way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Originally climbed directly up from the ledge before traversing to gain the tubular groove I.e, no use if the lower blocks. Probably 7a+ if climbed this way and 7a if using the lower way.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Mike505 3 Oct Lead G/U A couple of false starts, after no warm up and cold fingers. On the small ledge after the 3rd bolt I bridged up using the blocks out right (not sure if I was meant to take it more direct?). Great route, we had an 80m rope to lower off, I'm not sure a 70 would have made it with the lower off being set so far back from the top out.
with eb202
A couple of false starts, after no warm up and cold fingers. On the small ledge after the 3rd bolt I bridged up using the blocks out right (not sure if I was meant to take it more direct?). Great route, we had an 80m rope to lower off, I'm not sure a 70 would have made it with the lower off being set so far back from the top out.
with eb202
sambarstow ?Jun Lead
Mark Reeves 21 Apr Lead O/S
JonesE 23 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Ian wanted a second opinion on the grade so gave it a go. Start is very crimpy and even though they look like positive crimps, the sweetspot needs figuring out and it require some good footwork. There follows a decent rest before another sustained sequence of moves before entering the groove. The traverse is for hands so don't climb onto the blocks above the groove. It eases off after but I was so tired that it felt harder than it should - it's a long pitch! This is definitely harder than other 7a's I've done on slate as it has hard sustained sequences rather than a single hard move. Easily 7a+, probably 7b and definitely worth 2 stars.
with Ian
Ian wanted a second opinion on the grade so gave it a go. Start is very crimpy and even though they look like positive crimps, the sweetspot needs figuring out and it require some good footwork. There follows a decent rest before another sustained sequence of moves before entering the groove. The traverse is for hands so don't climb onto the blocks above the groove. It eases off after but I was so tired that it felt harder than it should - it's a long pitch! This is definitely harder than other 7a's I've done on slate as it has hard sustained sequences rather than a single hard move. Easily 7a+, probably 7b and definitely worth 2 stars.
with Ian
Sl@te Head 21 Jun, 2018 Lead RP First Ascent of a really cool tubular feature :-)
First Ascent of a really cool tubular feature :-)
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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2