350m, 13 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A Dolomite classic that is a rite of passage for many making a trip to the Tre Cime. The route is suffering somewhat from its popularity now and the first couple of pitches in particular are very polished. Whilst the climbing is good and the positions fantastic don't expect to be clinging to the arete for the whole route. Once the route moves around to the southeast face you will find yourself buried in a series of strenuous chimneys with some awkward route finding.
Start immediately right of a metal plaque, to the left of the arete, below a yellow corner.
1) V+, 30m. Climb the polished yellow corner to a good stance on the right.
2) VI-, 30m. Continue up the corner keeping left of an overhang, then tackle an overhanging crack to a belay below a yellow crack.
3) III+, 40m. Move right up easier grey rock. Climb past a pillar and continue direct, then slightly right again, to a belay on a terrace.
4) III+, 30m. Move right on easy ground, pass a small yellow roof on its right, then continue up slightly vegetated rock leftwards to a stance below a corner.
5) V-, 30m. Climb the corner direct, move right below a small roof then continue direct up a slab. Move back left on a good ledge visible from below.
6) IV, 30m. Step out right and climb direct over the next ledge and on to the one above. Step left to a belay.
7) IV, 15m. Traverse left along the ledge, level with a horizontal crack, to a belay on the arete.
8) V+, 25m, Climb direct, then move right of the arete then back left to a well-pegged belay just left of the arete.
9) VI+, 30m. Move back right of the arete, following a ramp right, to reach a yellow corner. Climb this (strenuous but well protected) to a good belay about halfway up.
10) V+, 25m. Do not carry on up the corner but, instead, move left under a small roof. Cross onto the left of the arete and continue climbing slightly left across a series of small ledges. Belay below a small roof.
11) V, 30m. Pull through the roof then climb the left-hand of two parallel cracks. Step right, crossing back onto the right of the arete and climb a crack to a terrace.
12) V+, 30m Move left, climb a flake direct, then continue left. Move back right to a wide crack and climb this to a ledge.
13) V, 30m. Continue in the crack then move left on easier broken rock to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follows of the line of the striking southern arete. The situations are stunningly exposed. The alpine guide gives it VI+.

Emile Comici 1931

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Euro Alpine Rock.

Tim Rodgers 06/Sep/17 -
with Andrea
Hidden 23/Aug/17 Lead
Abi Chard 22/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Ian
lukey13 18/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Emma :)
emma1987 18/Aug/17 AltLd
with lukey13
Jim Walton 07/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

What a belter. Some real pant wettingly exposed traverses and sustained chimney and face climbing. We graded the route E2 5c overall. Nothing easier than VS 4c, the crux chimneys pitch if led as a full 45m pitch is very very sustained E2 5c. The route is well protected overall and the descent is by big abseil stations. We climbed with double 50m ropes and never wished we had 60's.

with Andy Barker
Andrew Barker 07/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

A brilliant day. About 7.5 hours on the climb and a few more on the descent. I linked the two pitches in the groove. I'm not sure why some descriptions tell you to leave the groove at the midway belay as the second part is great and a similar grade.

with Jim
morganator ?/Jul/17 AltLd

Rubbish forecast so nobody on it- fantastic! Atmospheric swirling mist and rumbling thunder on the way down. Great day out

Hidden ?/Jul/17 Lead
Andy Peak 1 02/Aug/16 AltLd

Just like All the stoney Middleton hvs/e1s staked on top of each other spectacular:-) pegs in the left wall of the gully help you get past the snow

with Geff
james1978 29/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with pam
Hidden 18/Jul/15 AltLd
samwillo 18/Jul/15 AltLd
with Niels Ernst-Williams
tuukka 04/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Erik
Hidden 04/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
farkas.time 24/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

8.5 hours. Passed by two teams, about 45 minutes waiting time. Awesome!

with Devin
Hidden 08/Aug/13 AltLd
Johnny Baker 08/Aug/13 AltLd
with Matt Helliker
rlade ?/Aug/13 -
with Chris Sansum
Dave Parton 22/Jul/13 -
with Adam Ellwood
Chris Sansum 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Richard Lade
Lenny ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Phil .N
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
nickwhimster 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

cool, tho we were one of four teams climbing all over each other!

monsteratt 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Did this as shorter alternative to Comici due to cock up with campsite barrier (doh!). Was enjoyable anyway, felt quite relaxed. Ended up climbing with two other parties. Did in good time. Managed to knock some loose rock on a following guide (not nice for all involved). Fortunately she was OK. Some good pitches in amongst some looseness. Somehow managed to avoid leading either of the harder pitches. Nice straight forward descent.

with Nick Whimster
jgordon75 06/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Dom Bush
duncan 17/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

7 hours. HVS 5a ish. Descent not obvious in mist and snow-filled gulley low down quite tricky in places.

danimal88 05/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

mid v pitch felt harder than the 2 ivs. stunning route with exciting snow gully descent

with piotr
whistler 05/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant. Snow-filled gully made the descent very interesting!

Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd
GraMc 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S

spectacular route, exposure is nuts and some pretty airy hanging belays! one of the best routes ive done

with kat torr, jonnie williams
jonnie3430 24/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Graham, El Toro
Hidden 23/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
dominic lee 05/Sep/09 Lead

moonlit descent.

nathanlee ?/Sep/09 2nd β

wonderfully exposed!

nige 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with richard kirby
Rich Kirby 21/Aug/09 AltLd
with Nige
JulesV 19/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Exellent day out. Recommend finishing with the Tre Cima pub crawl!

with Will Boxen
billb ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
tommytuffa 04/Jul/09 AltLd dog

Found cruxes hard despite being on second, we were a bit slow

with Felix
felixthelion 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

At times lovely climbing. The two slightly overhanging corner crux pitches were burly but brilliant. Rock loose in places but mainly on easier ground. We took too long.

mirise 18/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Katerina Matyushevskaja
Nicos 02/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/07 2nd O/S
dan gibson 24/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with martina
Hidden 23/Jul/07 AltLd
Oliver Sherman ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
alpinist63 29/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
haydng ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Rachel
BenTiffin ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S

Lovely day, the situations are better than the climbing - a stunning line but loose rock in places.

with Dan Robinson
simon kimber ?/Aug/03 AltLd

rained a lot

with Paul Burren
BenTiffin ?/Jul/03 AltLd

Amazing line. Shame the climbing isn't quite as good but still a memorable route.

with Dan Robinson
Dave Kerr 08/Sep/02 AltLd
with Steve Wells
NickJH ?/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
with RGraves
EllieWoods ?/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
with Si
Hidden 22/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Andy Say 23/Aug/95 -
Andy Say 23/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/95 Lead
Hidden 10/Aug/88 AltLd
mark-abz 30/Jul/83 AltLd
with Walter P
Hidden ?/Jun/82 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/80 -
Hidden 02/Sep/79 AltLd
Martin Bennett 18/Aug/74 -
with Peter Main, RA
Peter Main 18/Aug/74 2nd

On route at 5.45am,summit at 14.30. A superb route to finish holiday with. Most of it technically VS apart from 70' A1 and 400' D/VD. The traverse was sensational and pitches one & two strenuous especially at 6am. Descent easy with 6 abseils. A fantastic and memorable experience

with Robin Andrews & Martin Bennett
Steve Woollard ?/Jul/74 AltLd
with Doug Adams
jcw ??/1965 -
with Christian Mollier
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High VII-
Mid VII-
Low VII-
High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set