Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
Technically challenging moves on excellent rock. Start at a flowstone curtain below a tiny corner in the lower wall. Climb to a good flowstone hold and thread, and then continue to a ledge below an open groove in the upper wall. Climb the groove, past a peg, to a small nut just before the top and finish with care onto grass. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A flake edge has shed some bits over time and the climbing is now a little easier, the locals think high E2 5b. But it remains bold and pumpy on the upper wall, rewarding a cool head and a confident approach. Checking and cleaning the top-out is sensible: suggestion - do Stalactite Direct for a warm-up...
FFA. N.White 10/May/1986.
West Country Climbs , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Haytor)