240m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
215m. A fun and varied route which has a bit of everything - slabs, walls, cracks and corners all feature, plus a fairly puzzling little move on pitch 5.
Approach - Descend from the Brévent down the Charles Bozon Ski Piste (which is a jeep track in summer but holds snow well into July) to the brèche between the two Brévent Crags. Continue on the wide track down, under the east face of the Brévent and branch off it when level with the foot of the route.
1) 6a, 30m. The route begins at the toe of the buttress, which can either be climbed directly (5c) or on flakes and small crimps (6a) on the right-hand side. Both options meet after 15m and lead to a large ledge.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb the slab and groove above before stepping right and following the arête in an excellent position to a belay beneath a chimney.
3) 4c, 15m. Go straight up the slab then move left into the deep chimney. Walk through this where it levels out and turn right to belay on a single bolt underneath a steep corner.
4) 5b, 15m. Climb the corner (easier than it looks) on excellent holds, to a single bolt belay which can be backed up with a sling on a spike. It is possible to walk off from here to avoid pitch 5.
5) 6a, 30m. Climb up and right across ledges to reach the foot of a steep, red wall with a corner on the left. Climb the corner and then make a steep traverse leftwards until beneath a wide crack. Climb the crack with difficulty and continue on the slab above. Follow the easy groove on the right to reach a sling belay on the ridge crest.
A 5m traverse (walk) on the west side of the ridge leads to a bolted belay and a 20m abseil. From the foot of this, scramble up and rightwards for 200m to reach the foot of the second gendarme.
6) 5b, 30m. Climb the slab and then make a brilliant technical traverse left to reach the arête. Follow this to a small stance.
7) 4c, 30m. Continue up the arête, before moving right and following a vague groove to a belay on top of the gendarme.
Walk west for 30m to reach the top of the couloir which splits the two gendarmes. Scramble down this to reach the foot of the final pitch. Another option is to walk to the top of the last gendarme then abseil in (35m).
8) 5b, 35m. Climb the final pitch, initially on flakes and then via steep but helpful cracks. A fantastic pitch to finish on.
Descent - Climb back up to the Brévent lift via the approach path. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A popular climb on 3 separate buttresses:
1st:5a (5c option), 5a, 5a, 5b, optional 6b pitch
2nd:5b, 5a
3rd:5b

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
GOS 15 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Crag climbs in chamonix (2005) has additional info: p1 left start is 4c. P3 alternative is to bridge up chimney near p4 belay to summit small pinnacle and ab off to p4 belay as 5a variation. P5 can go direct up arete crack at 6b. Missing hanger
 
Show beta
βeta: Crag climbs in chamonix (2005) has additional info: p1 left start is 4c. P3 alternative is to bridge up chimney near p4 belay to summit small pinnacle and ab off to p4 belay as 5a variation. P5 can go direct up arete crack at 6b. Missing hanger
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
MichealMurphy ?Sep AltLd O/S decent route but busy. didn't bother with the 2 & 3rd to last pitch. Final pitch was amazing.
decent route but busy. didn't bother with the 2 & 3rd to last pitch. Final pitch was amazing.
markfairbank 24 Aug AltLd O/S Bit scrappy, especially low down. Pitches 6-8 get better. Easy day after a couple of harder ones up at the Envers.
Bit scrappy, especially low down. Pitches 6-8 get better. Easy day after a couple of harder ones up at the Envers.
Anne Fairbank 24 Aug AltLd Did all 8 pitches. Slightly artificial to link the 3 separate buttresses, but well worth it - the 3rd buttress was fantastic!
Did all 8 pitches. Slightly artificial to link the 3 separate buttresses, but well worth it - the 3rd buttress was fantastic!
wilkinscl 24 Aug -
with Katharine, morpcat
with Katharine, morpcat
Ollieaxon 23 Aug AltLd O/S Missed pitches 7-8 due to them being busy but lovely route. The 2nd 6A pitch is a little harder than the first but very enjoyable.
with DJH
Missed pitches 7-8 due to them being busy but lovely route. The 2nd 6A pitch is a little harder than the first but very enjoyable.
with DJH
morpcat 21 Aug AltLd O/S First five pitches including the two 6a. Led first two then switched. Listen out for shrieking monkeys.
First five pitches including the two 6a. Led first two then switched. Listen out for shrieking monkeys.
Kristian1805 13 Aug - Only climbed the last pitch, 35m 5b
Only climbed the last pitch, 35m 5b
John McKenna 11 Aug AltLd dnf Couldn't be bothered going onto the other two buttresses. Looked better in the guide book.
Couldn't be bothered going onto the other two buttresses. Looked better in the guide book.
calumhicks 11 Aug AltLd dnf Too many parties on the route we went in for, so bailed onto this. Did the first gendarme then walked off. Shite route.
with John Mckenna
Too many parties on the route we went in for, so bailed onto this. Did the first gendarme then walked off. Shite route.
with John Mckenna
Dean.p.92 8 Aug AltLd O/S
Jamiewalkerjones 8 Aug AltLd O/S
Phil_Brock 6 Aug Lead O/S Fun little multipitch, did first pillar (pitch 1-5, led 2 and 4). Tried 6b finish, resorted to French free after 3 solid days of climbing.
Fun little multipitch, did first pillar (pitch 1-5, led 2 and 4). Tried 6b finish, resorted to French free after 3 solid days of climbing.
GrayGPT 5 Aug -
Olliequilter123 5 Aug 2nd
Karlos 4 Aug Lead dnf P1 to 3 only, but did finish up the fine pinnacle - a must do!
with Lucy
P1 to 3 only, but did finish up the fine pinnacle - a must do!
with Lucy
Binder 1 Aug AltLd O/S Some great climbing, climbing fun pinnacles.
with gravity
Some great climbing, climbing fun pinnacles.
with gravity
Mike Brogden 31 Jul AltLd
Hidden 30 Jul -
Alasdair Robertson 29 Jul AltLd O/S More like three separate routes bundled together but still good fun. Ash led odd pitches, I led even.
More like three separate routes bundled together but still good fun. Ash led odd pitches, I led even.
Ashley King 29 Jul AltLd Led pitches 1,3,5 and 7. Nice route. The 6a pitches didn’t feel that bad. I thought the final 5b was the hardest. But maybe that’s just because it was lots of crack climbing.
Led pitches 1,3,5 and 7. Nice route. The 6a pitches didn’t feel that bad. I thought the final 5b was the hardest. But maybe that’s just because it was lots of crack climbing.
philgillespie 25 Jul AltLd O/S
eliastess 24 Jul -
eliastess 24 Jul -
eliastess 24 Jul -
eliastess 24 Jul -
Helzt 18 Jul AltLd O/S Nice alternate climbing throughout, worth trying the 6b if within your capability. Also the last pitch was solid.
Nice alternate climbing throughout, worth trying the 6b if within your capability. Also the last pitch was solid.
Hidden 18 Jul AltLd O/S
jaderosanne 17 Jul AltLd Really fun!
Really fun!
lukeswindells 14 Jul Lead dnf
StevenC92 14 Jul AltLd O/S
with Joe Manterfield
with Joe Manterfield
GOS 14 Jul AltLd O/S Didn't start til 12. Led p1 3 5 6 7. 1 to 3 ok. Last 5 v good. Did 5c left start p1. On p5 did direct up arete crack v nice and subsequently told was 6b
with Colm Peppard
Didn't start til 12. Led p1 3 5 6 7. 1 to 3 ok. Last 5 v good. Did 5c left start p1. On p5 did direct up arete crack v nice and subsequently told was 6b
with Colm Peppard
martha1121 12 Jul AltLd O/S Got tension once while leading crux pitch
Got tension once while leading crux pitch
Hidden 11 Jul AltLd
jarljorgensen 7 Jul -
Chuck 6 Jul Lead
with Adam Martin, Benoît Remillieux
with Adam Martin, Benoît Remillieux
Ian Lemon 4 Jul AltLd O/S Did the cruxes but skipped pitches on the right gendarme as they seemed a bit random.
with Orla Mac, Jamie
Did the cruxes but skipped pitches on the right gendarme as they seemed a bit random.
with Orla Mac, Jamie
Orla_Mac 4 Jul Lead Lead the 4c pitch
with Matt, Jamie
Lead the 4c pitch
with Matt, Jamie
SuePearson 4 Jul 2nd O/S
with darling Dave
with darling Dave
Will Sherwood 3 Jul AltLd
Gemmazrobo 3 Jul AltLd O/S
william henderson 2 Jul AltLd O/S
John1458 1 Jul AltLd O/S Alex led the odd pitches, I took the evens, great day out! Once the guides with slow clients got out of the way....
Alex led the odd pitches, I took the evens, great day out! Once the guides with slow clients got out of the way....
Petarghh 1 Jul AltLd O/S
Adamski1986 ?Jul AltLd O/S
with Gema Martin Ordas
with Gema Martin Ordas
davidsouthgate 29 Jun AltLd Opted for the A0 alternative for pitch 5... A two day ascent as we missed out the last pitch (8) for some reason but did it the next day
with Mairi Teasdale
Opted for the A0 alternative for pitch 5... A two day ascent as we missed out the last pitch (8) for some reason but did it the next day
with Mairi Teasdale
Richardlake 27 Jun AltLd O/S Odd pitches. Good climbing, nicely bolted. Only did the first pillar then headed off to do Frison-Roche
Odd pitches. Good climbing, nicely bolted. Only did the first pillar then headed off to do Frison-Roche
will_lake 27 Jun AltLd O/S
Jacob Eagles 27 Jun AltLd O/S Jake P1, P3, P5, P7, P9 Simon P2, P4, P6, P8
Jake P1, P3, P5, P7, P9 Simon P2, P4, P6, P8
carr0t 27 Jun -
simon snowdon 27 Jun AltLd
Will Miles 25 Jun AltLd O/S
with Aled V
with Aled V
Aled Williams 25 Jun -
with Will Milles
with Will Milles
67hours 22 Jun AltLd O/S All 3 buttresses are excellent. French freed the "6a" crack.
with Blackmore
All 3 buttresses are excellent. French freed the "6a" crack.
with Blackmore
roym 19 Jun AltLd Just the first 5 pitches, 5th pretty stiff with no aclimatisation!
Just the first 5 pitches, 5th pretty stiff with no aclimatisation!
Tom Fullen 19 Jun AltLd O/S The guidebook isn’t wrong - the pull over the bulge was tricky. Missed out the sections after the ab because they didn’t make for a very continuous route.
The guidebook isn’t wrong - the pull over the bulge was tricky. Missed out the sections after the ab because they didn’t make for a very continuous route.
SophieWalker 19 Jun 2nd
fraserfallsoffalot 19 Jun -
Webster 18 Jun AltLd dnf The main bulk of the route is utterly brilliant (up to the end of rockfax pitch 5), taking the best and most logical line throughout (just a shame about all the unnecesary bolts next to perfect cracks...). dont ruin your day by continuing onto the 2nd and third gendarmes, the climbing is utterly contrived and out of character with the rest of the climbing. despite being graded 5b they are both harder than the two 6a pitches! parter climbed in rockshoes and i climbed in big boots.
The main bulk of the route is utterly brilliant (up to the end of rockfax pitch 5), taking the best and most logical line throughout (just a shame about all the unnecesary bolts next to perfect cracks...). dont ruin your day by continuing onto the 2nd and third gendarmes, the climbing is utterly contrived and out of character with the rest of the climbing. despite being graded 5b they are both harder than the two 6a pitches! parter climbed in rockshoes and i climbed in big boots.
Chris Manasseh 17 Jun 2nd Day 1 of alpine training course
with Fraser Jarvis, Al Powell
Day 1 of alpine training course
with Fraser Jarvis, Al Powell
Hidden ?? Lead dnf
Hidden 16 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Tim Bevan 6 Sep, 2018 AltLd Another one not to my tastes, don't think I get on well with the rock around here. Struggled up the 6b option on pitch 5 as the rain came in then bailed off.
Another one not to my tastes, don't think I get on well with the rock around here. Struggled up the 6b option on pitch 5 as the rain came in then bailed off.
SarahVanda 6 Sep, 2018 AltLd
pancakeandchips 2 Sep, 2018 AltLd Excellent fun, skipped the last pitch.
with Rosie
Excellent fun, skipped the last pitch.
with Rosie
wheelsucker 22 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Climbed with Julia. I led the odds and she the evens. There is a 6b option on pitch 5 which goes straight up from the belay and slightly right of the arete. I fell a couple of times until I worked out the moves. The whole route is a bit contrived with a walk to connect a pinnacle and a down climb to connect another. It's all worth it though as the climbing is very good. Make sure you do the last 5b pitch as it's a cracker but follow the guidebook description up the lichen covered slabs at the top as the rock to the left is a pile of giant jenga blocks.
Climbed with Julia. I led the odds and she the evens. There is a 6b option on pitch 5 which goes straight up from the belay and slightly right of the arete. I fell a couple of times until I worked out the moves. The whole route is a bit contrived with a walk to connect a pinnacle and a down climb to connect another. It's all worth it though as the climbing is very good. Make sure you do the last 5b pitch as it's a cracker but follow the guidebook description up the lichen covered slabs at the top as the rock to the left is a pile of giant jenga blocks.
Josh Kimberling 19 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf Climbed to top of spire awesome climbing. Did alt pitches I think. Didn’t bother with the rest.
with Aaron Sylvester
Climbed to top of spire awesome climbing. Did alt pitches I think. Didn’t bother with the rest.
with Aaron Sylvester
Hidden 18 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Aaronsylvester 18 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Josh Kimberling
with Josh Kimberling
Hidden 18 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Rob Royle 5 Aug, 2018 Lead
with Lucky, Hamed
with Lucky, Hamed
Jared Goldberg 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
birks3746 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Alpine grades don't make any sense, took about 90mins
with Phil
Alpine grades don't make any sense, took about 90mins
with Phil
Jared Goldberg 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
ChristyCole 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with dkilner
with dkilner
Jared Goldberg 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
dkilner 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 2 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with J.Williams
with J.Williams
JoeWilliams 2 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Ollie B
with Ollie B
Hidden 31 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Blackcountrybill 31 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Cillian 30 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Aaronsylvester 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Josh Kimberling
with Josh Kimberling
Aimee Elliott Demay 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with jcoup
with jcoup
jcoup 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd Didn't finish.
Didn't finish.
alasdaircavaye 13 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S All the climbing was amazing, apart from the first 4c pitch! Bolting mostly great and moves suit those traditionally inclined...
with Will Pettitt
All the climbing was amazing, apart from the first 4c pitch! Bolting mostly great and moves suit those traditionally inclined...
with Will Pettitt
7toes 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Stuart M
with Stuart M
turnham01 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Harryblake 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Rob_Morris1996 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Great route! Did the little pinnacle behind the top of pitch three (I think) for added enjoyment, recommended!
Great route! Did the little pinnacle behind the top of pitch three (I think) for added enjoyment, recommended!
Hidden 2 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 2 Jul, 2018 AltLd
James Gordon ?Jul, 2018 -
Hidden 16 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
bethr_1997 16 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Stuart Johnston 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Despite looking like not much from the lift, it is actually an excellent route. Not 3 stars for the climbing but only 2 overall for the disjointed nature of the route. Ignore the RockFax access description - from the top cable car walk down the piste. Go past the breche de Brevent and past where you would turn off to go to the main Brevent face. Facing downhill, to your left are a series of pillars and gendarmes and Crakoucass tackles the biggest an most obvious of these. Fully bolted and no need for extra gear. The 6a and final 5 pitch are hard for the grade. After the first 5 pitches you have to walk up 200m, which really breaks up the route, but the last 3 pitches are well worth it. The penultimate pitch actually lands you on the highest summit, but don't be tempted to head for the lift station! it is an easy scramble down to the last pitch which is the best of the lot!
with Lara Kesterton
Despite looking like not much from the lift, it is actually an excellent route. Not 3 stars for the climbing but only 2 overall for the disjointed nature of the route. Ignore the RockFax access description - from the top cable car walk down the piste. Go past the breche de Brevent and past where you would turn off to go to the main Brevent face. Facing downhill, to your left are a series of pillars and gendarmes and Crakoucass tackles the biggest an most obvious of these. Fully bolted and no need for extra gear. The 6a and final 5 pitch are hard for the grade. After the first 5 pitches you have to walk up 200m, which really breaks up the route, but the last 3 pitches are well worth it. The penultimate pitch actually lands you on the highest summit, but don't be tempted to head for the lift station! it is an easy scramble down to the last pitch which is the best of the lot!
with Lara Kesterton
Alan Scowcroft 27 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Andy Perkins
with Andy Perkins
Hidden 21 Aug, 2017 -
professorcobra 9 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
seanhendo123 9 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Pretty broken and mediocre climbing, better having a rest day
with Lamb
Pretty broken and mediocre climbing, better having a rest day
with Lamb
Christine 9 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Maximilian Meyer
with Maximilian Meyer
Sam McCarthy 9 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Wizzy
with Wizzy
Wizzy 9 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Lamb 9 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Not the most engaging climb. Ended up doing top damp gendarme in tennies in the wet. Go for a hotdog at Cool Cats instead. https://craiglamb.blogspot.co.uk/2017/12/chamonix-summer-2017.html
Not the most engaging climb. Ended up doing top damp gendarme in tennies in the wet. Go for a hotdog at Cool Cats instead. https://craiglamb.blogspot.co.uk/2017/12/chamonix-summer-2017.html
drdave 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Ben Proudman
with Ben Proudman
the.proud.man 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Got on this climb by mistake as we were originally looking for La Somone but ended up having a great time! I lead all the harder bits. Escaped the route before the 6a pitch.
with David hall
Got on this climb by mistake as we were originally looking for La Somone but ended up having a great time! I lead all the harder bits. Escaped the route before the 6a pitch.
with David hall
Hidden 2 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 2 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Led even pitches, John took the 6b variation on pitch 5, thought it felt hard for 6a!
with j_duds
Led even pitches, John took the 6b variation on pitch 5, thought it felt hard for 6a!
with j_duds
sanguine 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S A fine sport route - fun in the sun - one spicy, exposed move towards the end, otherwise safe as houses
with Daithi , Mossy
A fine sport route - fun in the sun - one spicy, exposed move towards the end, otherwise safe as houses
with Daithi , Mossy
Hidden 27 Jul, 2017 AltLd
pdamann 27 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P2, then P1 of the second gendarme (P6) and final pitch, which was great! We didn't do the second 6a/b pitch after watching several people come off.
Led P2, then P1 of the second gendarme (P6) and final pitch, which was great! We didn't do the second 6a/b pitch after watching several people come off.
Robbie Blease 22 Jul, 2017 AltLd Led crux and the pitch before
Led crux and the pitch before
Linus Osorio 22 Jul, 2017 AltLd
JohnHartley 22 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Lugonn 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Pretty chill climbing with the best pitch at the top of the first needle. One 6a+ move. We abbed off this.
with Kal
Pretty chill climbing with the best pitch at the top of the first needle. One 6a+ move. We abbed off this.
with Kal
Rob Royle 18 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Blanka
with Blanka
RuthW 14 Jul, 2017 2nd Alpine techniques lvl 2 course
Alpine techniques lvl 2 course
torjes 13 Jul, 2017 -
nutme 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd Completely clear of snow. Very pleasant climb and easy route finding.
with Cata
Completely clear of snow. Very pleasant climb and easy route finding.
with Cata
steve_gibbs 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Deema, Keira
with Deema, Keira
Hidden 1 Jul, 2017 Lead
mattwjones ?Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Anthony Moon
with Anthony Moon
faye 30 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with rosso
with rosso
rosso 30 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Ended up by mistake on the 6b variation. Great route and dried fairly quickly even though last night was snowing. Not sure about last pitch beeing 5b as there were different bolt lines. The one the far right was exceptionally technical and run out, but great fun.
with faye
Ended up by mistake on the 6b variation. Great route and dried fairly quickly even though last night was snowing. Not sure about last pitch beeing 5b as there were different bolt lines. The one the far right was exceptionally technical and run out, but great fun.
with faye
Duncan 88 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Callumbuch96 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd
jamesk93 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
George Ponsonby 9 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hugh Irving 9 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Alpenglow 4 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S First 2 buttresses. Did the 5c variation instead of the 6b on the 5th pitch.
with Alice B
First 2 buttresses. Did the 5c variation instead of the 6b on the 5th pitch.
with Alice B
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Pero 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Bryan M 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with Pero
with Pero
Finn Curry 25 Aug, 2016 2nd
with Paul Warnock
with Paul Warnock
Jgresh 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd Mike- P2- 5a. Me- P1- 5c, P3- 4c, P4- 5b, P5- 6a
with Michael Macdonald
Mike- P2- 5a. Me- P1- 5c, P3- 4c, P4- 5b, P5- 6a
with Michael Macdonald
Siongethinhill 10 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Tom David
with Tom David
Hidden 4 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt 29 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with Nick Arding
with Nick Arding
Rachael88 29 Jul, 2016 2nd Struggled on the 1st and 6A pitch. Walk down after the abseil for a nice ice cream.
with BStar
Struggled on the 1st and 6A pitch. Walk down after the abseil for a nice ice cream.
with BStar
wjcdean 29 Jul, 2016 AltLd started off teamed up with trevs, lead P1 and P3, had a go at P5 (6b) and got too tired so adam went and had a go and got up it. had another go on second and got the moves free after falling off the crux once and starting from the middle ledge. trevs and rach bailed and me and adam did the last 3 pitches. i lead P7 and P8. great, long route but a bit contrived with the multiple gendarmes a the end.
started off teamed up with trevs, lead P1 and P3, had a go at P5 (6b) and got too tired so adam went and had a go and got up it. had another go on second and got the moves free after falling off the crux once and starting from the middle ledge. trevs and rach bailed and me and adam did the last 3 pitches. i lead P7 and P8. great, long route but a bit contrived with the multiple gendarmes a the end.
Trevers 29 Jul, 2016 AltLd Some lovely climbing on this, but struggled (and aided) the bottom 6a pitch (seconding with a pack) and the 6b pitch (seconding with pack and dangling multiple ropes). I can't climb 6b on a good day! Missed out the final pitches which seem a bit contrived.
with Rachael, BStar, wjcdean
Some lovely climbing on this, but struggled (and aided) the bottom 6a pitch (seconding with a pack) and the 6b pitch (seconding with pack and dangling multiple ropes). I can't climb 6b on a good day! Missed out the final pitches which seem a bit contrived.
with Rachael, BStar, wjcdean
BStar 29 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Took a fall on the optional 'aid pitch' (6b), rested then got it free. The top couple of pitches are a bit contrived but worth including. Lovely route!
with Rachael88, Trevers, Will Dean
Took a fall on the optional 'aid pitch' (6b), rested then got it free. The top couple of pitches are a bit contrived but worth including. Lovely route!
with Rachael88, Trevers, Will Dean
RosiePalmer 18 Jul, 2016 2nd β Awesome multi pitch with fantastic views - even saw a Marmot!
Awesome multi pitch with fantastic views - even saw a Marmot!
Hidden 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
jimmy66 4 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 1 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
ChambersPP ?Jul, 2016 -
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
Everetta ??, 2016 AltLd O/S
walts4 ??, 2016 -
MichalDz ??, 2016 AltLd O/S
YellowFellow 20 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Ben CJ
with Ben CJ
Rob Royle 5 Sep, 2015 Lead Bailed after 4 pitches as it started snowing......!
with Steph
Bailed after 4 pitches as it started snowing......!
with Steph
Hidden 4 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Katie S ?Sep, 2015 AltLd
Matt Schwarz ?Sep, 2015 AltLd
with Katie S
with Katie S
Hidden 30 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Ulgrid 30 Aug, 2015 AltLd
adrianj 27 Aug, 2015 AltLd Lovely climb on a pinnacle, linked to 2 other pinnacles! Finish with a beer at the Brevant station then back down the cable car!
with TimmyG
Lovely climb on a pinnacle, linked to 2 other pinnacles! Finish with a beer at the Brevant station then back down the cable car!
with TimmyG
Hidden 27 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Robaduck 5 Aug, 2015 2nd
Joe Andrews ?Aug, 2015 AltLd
with hairy51
with hairy51
hairy51 ?Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Benjaminblanc ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Joe Andrews, hairy51
with Joe Andrews, hairy51
onlyfoddington 30 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Climbed in a three - ran into an opinionated climber who was not happy about this.
with alooker
Climbed in a three - ran into an opinionated climber who was not happy about this.
with alooker
Hidden 23 Jul, 2015 AltLd
abbeywall 21 Jul, 2015 AltLd Led p1, think I combined 3 and 4 and then did the 5c/+avoiding pitch for the 6b, led p5 and p7. Very popular! Some great climbing on all pitches. A good fun route
with K
Led p1, think I combined 3 and 4 and then did the 5c/+avoiding pitch for the 6b, led p5 and p7. Very popular! Some great climbing on all pitches. A good fun route
with K
Hidden 15 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
ned_85 10 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 7 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
alooker ?Jul, 2015 Lead
benwh1te ?Jul, 2015 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2015 Lead G/U
JagoNeath 25 Jun, 2015 Lead
peaterpan 21 Jun, 2015 AltLd Did the 6b variant, which I found hard with a sack on. Sitting on top of the spire to belay was awesome.
with tedswag
Did the 6b variant, which I found hard with a sack on. Sitting on top of the spire to belay was awesome.
with tedswag
tedswag 21 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Charlie Low 18 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Amazing climb, well worth doing. Lead P2, P3 and P6. P3 was awesome, really fun climbing and great exposure. Abbed off after P6.
with JoshT
Amazing climb, well worth doing. Lead P2, P3 and P6. P3 was awesome, really fun climbing and great exposure. Abbed off after P6.
with JoshT
JoshT 18 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Stunning route, took the 6c variant.
Stunning route, took the 6c variant.
niallsash 14 Jun, 2015 AltLd
with kdo
with kdo
Hidden 14 Jun, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 14 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Joel Miller 24 Apr, 2015 AltLd
Remyveness 24 Apr, 2015 AltLd Great climb, walked from Chamonix in 3 and a half hours as the lifts weren't running. Residual snow from the Planpraz meant crampons or snow shoes were needed for the latter half of the approach. Opted for the 4c start, and climbed with backpacks, walked off after P4.
Great climb, walked from Chamonix in 3 and a half hours as the lifts weren't running. Residual snow from the Planpraz meant crampons or snow shoes were needed for the latter half of the approach. Opted for the 4c start, and climbed with backpacks, walked off after P4.
Brucemacrosson ??, 2015 AltLd TD- 5c
with Bryan Rhinn
TD- 5c
with Bryan Rhinn
DigitalSteak 18 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S With crux pitch (6a really)
With crux pitch (6a really)
s1362083 ?Sep, 2014 2nd dog
annak 28 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Big Lee
with Big Lee
Big Lee 28 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Led the odd number pitches. Really enjoyed the third pitch. Good climb, although rather feels like two separate routes.
with annak
Led the odd number pitches. Really enjoyed the third pitch. Good climb, although rather feels like two separate routes.
with annak
Hidden 18 Aug, 2014 AltLd
matty123 10 Aug, 2014 AltLd
with Susanne Vuori
with Susanne Vuori
Seb31 ?Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Jack Geldard 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd
jac00 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
tomtom89 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd
with jac00
with jac00
Pete_Frost 17 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Good fun, sound rock. 6b pitch has one hanger missing, but this doesn't affect the crux.
with Ash Fusiarski
Good fun, sound rock. 6b pitch has one hanger missing, but this doesn't affect the crux.
with Ash Fusiarski
Hidden 3 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
AnnaBacklund ?Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Jun, 2014 AltLd dnf
Dawn_K_B 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Loved the pinnacle pitch. Skipped the 6b+.
with JemG
Loved the pinnacle pitch. Skipped the 6b+.
with JemG
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 20 Jun, 2014 AltLd
nmcgreen 20 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with kdo
with kdo
jcw ??, 2014 -
Happy Haggis 3 Sep, 2013 - Great route, especially the first five pitches. Good fun on the needle pitch!
with Robbo1
Great route, especially the first five pitches. Good fun on the needle pitch!
with Robbo1
Robbo1 3 Sep, 2013 -
Ccmilree 27 Aug, 2013 -
justaddpowder 27 Aug, 2013 Lead Great climb, rain called of the last top pitches. 5a too 5c 4P
Great climb, rain called of the last top pitches. 5a too 5c 4P
Hidden 17 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
froglette 17 Aug, 2013 AltLd John led 6b pitch. I led 2 5bs. Excellent route
with John Proudfoot, B Leslie
John led 6b pitch. I led 2 5bs. Excellent route
with John Proudfoot, B Leslie
Hidden 6 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
JimboWizbo 6 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1, P3, half of P4 by accident, P5, P7 and P8. The last pitch is fantastic
with BCT
Led P1, P3, half of P4 by accident, P5, P7 and P8. The last pitch is fantastic
with BCT
rlrs 2 Aug, 2013 AltLd
with GSI
with GSI
Rob Royle 21 Jul, 2013 2nd The start on the first pitch was difficult, looked easy but it was tough! Great climb once I was past the first pitch.
with Mountain Guide, Steph
The start on the first pitch was difficult, looked easy but it was tough! Great climb once I was past the first pitch.
with Mountain Guide, Steph
SteveM 16 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 9 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
thomaspomfrett 2 Jul, 2013 AltLd First three pitches only before the rain hit. I lead p1, Will lead p2&3
with Will Groat
First three pitches only before the rain hit. I lead p1, Will lead p2&3
with Will Groat
Claire Molloy ?Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Chris Molloy
with Chris Molloy
Hidden 25 Jun, 2013 2nd
Grant Fulton 25 Jun, 2013 Lead
with Charlie Edwards, Claire Hoolohan
with Charlie Edwards, Claire Hoolohan
Hidden 25 Jun, 2013 -
jcooper8 24 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Pete Houghton ?Jun, 2013 AltLd
Naomi Havercroft ?Jun, 2013 2nd
maria85 15 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led majority of pitches, all clean except for the 6b move which I fell off a few times before getting - super polished foot hold! More fun than I thought it would be.
with Jules
Led majority of pitches, all clean except for the 6b move which I fell off a few times before getting - super polished foot hold! More fun than I thought it would be.
with Jules
Ben Briggs 9 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Luca
with Luca
jameslam 24 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Charlie Thorneycroft
with Charlie Thorneycroft
Coops_13 18 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Brilliant needle pitch and 6b pitch
Brilliant needle pitch and 6b pitch
thetradlad 18 Jul, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 12 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Rockley 9 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
jon_ridley 7 Jul, 2012 AltLd
Emily Cropton 7 Jul, 2012 AltLd
Dan818 ?Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Matthew Griffiths
with Matthew Griffiths
Hidden 27 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 22 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
danfitz 22 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead rpt
Mountain Llama 16 Sep, 2011 AltLd
with Paul S
with Paul S
EllieWoods 9 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Lucy
with Lucy
nvalentine760 30 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Manfy led the easier pitches
with Sam Burnham
Manfy led the easier pitches
with Sam Burnham
The Bad Cough 4 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
John sealey 4 Aug, 2011 AltLd
tallthinmonkey 16 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Via the 6b pitch, only one move of 6b in a lovely position.
with Rob Leuhman
Via the 6b pitch, only one move of 6b in a lovely position.
with Rob Leuhman
Julli 5 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Hanna Pihlajaluoto
with Hanna Pihlajaluoto
Hidden 29 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Kris ??, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 14 Sep, 2010 2nd
John Pickles 19 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Morton
with Andrew Morton
al99 14 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Standing on top of the pinnacle is great!
with Al Carley-Smith
Standing on top of the pinnacle is great!
with Al Carley-Smith
Hidden 13 Aug, 2010 2nd
darren hudson 27 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S good climbing when the weather is bad higher up. close to top of cable car
with David Ford
good climbing when the weather is bad higher up. close to top of cable car
with David Ford
vincentvega 26 Jul, 2010 AltLd Great interesting route. Did the 5c pitch instead of the 6b, good moves stepping over the drop onto the side wall of the arete. Also did Le Cheval at the top of the needle!
with danny robb
Great interesting route. Did the 5c pitch instead of the 6b, good moves stepping over the drop onto the side wall of the arete. Also did Le Cheval at the top of the needle!
with danny robb
BALD EAGLE 25 Jul, 2010 AltLd
with M.Power
with M.Power
Anthony Dixon 13 Jul, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 22 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
liz j ?Sep, 2009 Lead
with Matt Dickinson
with Matt Dickinson
Hidden 28 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
dpe 12 Aug, 2009 2nd Only 6th and 7th pitches to top of Gendarme
with Smiler, Paul D
Only 6th and 7th pitches to top of Gendarme
with Smiler, Paul D
Henrik 5 Aug, 2009 AltLd dog The 6b version, fell on top-rope on the 6b crux...
with Josef + Joakim
The 6b version, fell on top-rope on the 6b crux...
with Josef + Joakim
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 2nd
Hidden 16 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Rich Malcolm 25 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Matt Brennan
with Matt Brennan
HannyHancock 7 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S pitches 1 (4c) & 3 (4b/5a)
with Curly
pitches 1 (4c) & 3 (4b/5a)
with Curly
Mihkel 5 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S A discontinuous route with some fantastic pitches, particularly p3 up a sharp needle. Memorable seeing a boueton (ibex) silhouetted against the dusk sky on the walk out.
with Alexia Hereford
A discontinuous route with some fantastic pitches, particularly p3 up a sharp needle. Memorable seeing a boueton (ibex) silhouetted against the dusk sky on the walk out.
with Alexia Hereford
Hidden 31 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
David Horwood 4 Sep, 2006 -
Hidden 27 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Dohnny_Jawes ?Jul, 2006 2nd O/S
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Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
Votes cast 19
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set