UKC

Rockfax Description
205m. A fine outing that is easily escapable throughout. Start on a ledge 2m up and left from the foot of the buttress at a piece of white tat threaded through a drilled hole.
1) 4b, 20m. From the tat, climb the slab above then step right onto steeper, blockier ground which leads to a bolted belay on top of a large block.
2) 3c, 10m. Downclimb the 2m slab on the backside of the block (3c) and then scramble down rightwards for 7 or 8m to reach a single bolt below a wide groove.
3) 4c, 30m. Climb the groove above using excellent flakes and cracks and move left at the top onto an easier slab which leads to a large ledge with two bolts and a thread to belay off.
4) 3c, 30m. Climb the crest of the ridge above easily (3c) clipping two bolts on the way, to reach a right-slanting slab. Cross this easily but without any bolts (there are cracks if you really do want some protection and have some cams but the terrain is extremely straightforward) to a large, grassy area below a steep slab.
5) 5b, 20m. Climb the slab with a tricky section between the first and second bolts then drift right towards the top on increasingly positive holds. Belay at the top of the slab, on top of a tower, using a thread and a bolt.
Make a 20m abseil down the West Face of the tower, requiring a small jump to clear a large boulder near the foot of the abseil! Walk north for 20m to reach another steep slab, with a single bolt at the foot.
6) 4c, 20m. Climb the slab on a blunt arête which is tricky in places and requires some trust in your feet. Fortunately, the handholds are massive. Step left 5m below the top and climb on easier ground to a belay.
Scramble down easily to reach the jeep track that separates the two parts of the Brévent Crags at the Brèche du Brévent. Follow the left-hand crag to its far left end to reach a blunt arête, just to the right of a large boulder.
7) 4b, 30m. Climb the arête, just to the left of the crest to reach a small and exposed ledge.
8) 4b, 25m. Continue up the arête, this time on the right of the crest, to reach a belay on a large flat rock. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+)

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User Date Notes
Tall Oak 26 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Bloody hard 5b section when using B2 boots. Felt so odd trying to climb techy slabs in boots where I couldn't feel the edges of anything. Next time bring rock boots. Cool climbing.
βeta?
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βeta: Bloody hard 5b section when using B2 boots. Felt so odd trying to climb techy slabs in boots where I couldn't feel the edges of anything. Next time bring rock boots. Cool climbing.
morpcat 21 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax diagram is nonsense (quelle surprise)
βeta?
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βeta: Rockfax diagram is nonsense (quelle surprise)
Webster 5 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The rockfax topo is completely wrong (which is becoming a common theme...) but the description is good. from pitch 2 onwards the pitch grades are out by 1 pitch relative to the description up untill after the 20m absail.
βeta?
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βeta: The rockfax topo is completely wrong (which is becoming a common theme...) but the description is good. from pitch 2 onwards the pitch grades are out by 1 pitch relative to the description up untill after the 20m absail.
tehmarks 30 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The pitches on the topo are misleading and just do not match the actual information in the route description (which is correct).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The pitches on the topo are misleading and just do not match the actual information in the route description (which is correct).

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Voting
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
Votes cast 15
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Écandies Traverse

Grade: D- ***
(Pointe des Écandies)

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