205m. A fine outing that is easily escapable throughout. Start on a ledge 2m up and left from the foot of the buttress at a piece of white tat threaded through a drilled hole.
1) 4b, 20m. From the tat, climb the slab above then step right onto steeper, blockier ground which leads to a bolted belay on top of a large block.
2) 3c, 10m. Downclimb the 2m slab on the backside of the block (3c) and then scramble down rightwards for 7 or 8m to reach a single bolt below a wide groove.
3) 4c, 30m. Climb the groove above using excellent flakes and cracks and move left at the top onto an easier slab which leads to a large ledge with two bolts and a thread to belay off.
4) 3c, 30m. Climb the crest of the ridge above easily (3c) clipping two bolts on the way, to reach a right-slanting slab. Cross this easily but without any bolts (there are cracks if you really do want some protection and have some cams but the terrain is extremely straightforward) to a large, grassy area below a steep slab.
5) 5b, 20m. Climb the slab with a tricky section between the first and second bolts then drift right towards the top on increasingly positive holds. Belay at the top of the slab, on top of a tower, using a thread and a bolt.
Make a 20m abseil down the West Face of the tower, requiring a small jump to clear a large boulder near the foot of the abseil! Walk north for 20m to reach another steep slab, with a single bolt at the foot.
6) 4c, 20m. Climb the slab on a blunt arête which is tricky in places and requires some trust in your feet. Fortunately, the handholds are massive. Step left 5m below the top and climb on easier ground to a belay.
Scramble down easily to reach the jeep track that separates the two parts of the Brévent Crags at the Brèche du Brévent. Follow the left-hand crag to its far left end to reach a blunt arête, just to the right of a large boulder.
7) 4b, 30m. Climb the arête, just to the left of the crest to reach a small and exposed ledge.
8) 4b, 25m. Continue up the arête, this time on the right of the crest, to reach a belay on a large flat rock. © Rockfax
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