Loading Notifications...

Rockfax Description
205m. A fine outing that is easily escapable throughout. Start on a ledge 2m up and left from the foot of the buttress at a piece of white tat threaded through a drilled hole.
Approach - Descend from the Brévent down the Charles Bozon Ski Piste (which is a jeep track in summer but holds snow well into July) to the brèche between the two Brévent Crags. Continue on the wide track down, under the east face of the Brévent and branch off it when level with the foot of the route.
1) 4b, 20m. From the tat, climb the slab above then step right onto steeper, blockier ground which leads to a bolted belay on top of a large block.
2) 3c, 10m. Downclimb the 2m slab on the backside of the block (3c) and then scramble down rightwards for 7 or 8m to reach a single bolt below a wide groove.
3) 4c, 30m. Climb the groove above using excellent flakes and cracks and move left at the top onto an easier slab which leads to a large ledge with two bolts and a thread to belay off.
4) 3c, 30m. Climb the crest of the ridge above easily (3c) clipping two bolts on the way, to reach a right-slanting slab. Cross this easily but without any bolts (there are cracks if you really do want some protection and have some cams but the terrain is extremely straightforward) to a large, grassy area below a steep slab.
5) 5b, 20m. Climb the slab with a tricky section between the first and second bolts then drift right towards the top on increasingly positive holds. Belay at the top of the slab, on top of a tower, using a thread and a bolt.
Make a 20m abseil down the west face of the tower, requiring a small jump to clear a large boulder near the foot of the abseil! Walk north for 20m to reach another steep slab, with a single bolt at the foot.
6) 4c, 20m. Climb the slab on a blunt arête which is tricky in places and requires some trust in your feet. Fortunately, the handholds are massive. Step left 5m below the top and climb on easier ground to a belay.
Scramble down easily to reach the jeep track that separates the two parts of the Brévent Crags at the Brèche du Brévent. Follow the left-hand crag to its far left end to reach a blunt arête, just to the right of a large boulder.
7) 4b, 30m. Climb the arête, just to the left of the crest to reach a small and exposed ledge.
8) 4b, 25m. Continue up the arête, this time on the right of the crest, to reach a belay on a large flat rock.
Descent - Climb back up to the Brévent lift via the approach path. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+)

Feedback

User Date Notes
morpcat 21 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax diagram is nonsense (quelle surprise)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax diagram is nonsense (quelle surprise)
Webster 5 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The rockfax topo is completely wrong (which is becoming a common theme...) but the description is good. from pitch 2 onwards the pitch grades are out by 1 pitch relative to the description up untill after the 20m absail.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The rockfax topo is completely wrong (which is becoming a common theme...) but the description is good. from pitch 2 onwards the pitch grades are out by 1 pitch relative to the description up untill after the 20m absail.
tehmarks 30 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The pitches on the topo are misleading and just do not match the actual information in the route description (which is correct).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The pitches on the topo are misleading and just do not match the actual information in the route description (which is correct).

Logged Ascents

283 users have logged this
42 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
Votes cast 14
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Écandies Traverse

Grade: D- ***
(Pointe des Écandies)