UKC

Rockfax Description
165m. A fantastic route which keeps on coming.
1) 6a, 20m. Follow the technical and featured slab, drifting leftwards at the top.
2) 6a+, 20m. Move right and climb the superb, delicate slab.
3) 5c, 15m. The difficulties ease a little up a thin finger-crack.
4) 5b, 20m. Finish off the slab and then continue up ledges, with the bolting becoming slightly sparser as you go.
Walk 25m uphill across grass to reach the pitch 4. In case of bad weather you can walk off rightwards from here, past the foot of Bodinosaure and onto grassy slopes below the approach path.
5) 6a, 35m. The slab above looks slightly broken and grassy but the pitch manages to stick to good rock all the way. Some of the toughest moves come near the end so keep concentrating!
6) 6a, 30m. Follow the groove above with constant interest and varied climbing to belay on the first access abseil point. Probably the best pitch of the route! © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Webster 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: a pair of 50m ropes will get you down in 4 full length absails
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a pair of 50m ropes will get you down in 4 full length absails
gavinwye 18 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There’s a bolt missing about the middle of pitch 5. Meaning that you’ll need to run it out a bit! There are no real opportunities to place any other runners. Fantastic route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There’s a bolt missing about the middle of pitch 5. Meaning that you’ll need to run it out a bit! There are no real opportunities to place any other runners. Fantastic route.

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Voting
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
Votes cast 12
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Into the Wild

Grade: TD 6a+ ***
(Mont Oreb - Vallorcine)

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