UKC

180m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 190m. A wonderful route which finds a way through some big country at a very amenable grade. Combining this with the one of the routes higher on the Peigne makes for a fantastic long day of granite rock climbing. If climbed on its own it is still more than worthwhile and gives a few hours of high mountain ambience with very little commitment. Start at the right-hand end of a slab at the foot of a line of ring bolts, 5m to the right of some older, black bolts.
1) 4b. Climb the slab, past the ring bolts, then step right and follow easier ground to a belay on a small ledge, 5m to the left of a chimney system and below a crack.
2) 4c. Follow the crack up into a corner and then climb this to a semi-hanging belay beneath an overlap.
3) 4c. Climb the crack directly above the belay to go through and overlap after 5m. Above the overlap, follow flakes out rightwards to a blunt arête. Continue up this via some slabby crack climbing to a spike belay on a large sloping ledge in a notch. There is a bolted belay 3m up and left of the ledge but the stance is nowhere near as comfortable so stick a sling around the spike to belay and use the bolted anchor as the first runner on the next pitch.
4) 5b. Head up the left-leaning corner-crack above the belay and then, where this ends, go straight up steeper ground. After 5m of steep rock the angle kicks back and leads leftwards to a belay beneath low-angled, broken ground.
5) 3c. Climb the broken slabby ground to join the Papillons Arête.
Descent - It is possible to abseil Les Lepidoptères but a much more enjoyable option is to climb the final two pitches of the Papillons Arête and descend from the end of this by making a 25m abseil down a steep corner on the south side of the Papillons Arête to reach the Papillons Couloir. From the top of Les Lepidotères you can also pass over onto the south side of the ridge to an bolted anchor 10m down and left, and make 2 x 25m abseils into the Papillons Couloir a little further down. Once in the couloir, descend the Peigne Normal Route by scrambling and one further abseil.
The obvious downside of this descent is that you will need to carry your rucksacks up and over the route, but it makes the day much more of an adventure. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+).


ClimberDateStyle
Remyveness 08/Sep/17 AltLd

Planned to summit the Peigne, but slow climbing combined with cues on the papillon arrete meant we abbed down the papillon couloir. Second pitch felt like the crux as the gear is small and the feat at thin entering the crack (Thankfully Jacks lead!)

with Jack93
Christine 29/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Luke gorman
Siongethinhill 02/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with adam martin
Petarghh 02/Aug/17 AltLd
Michael 01/Aug/17 -
Lakesben 01/Aug/17 AltLd
with Matt H
Hidden 01/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/17 AltLd
petecallaghan 29/Jul/17 AltLd dnf

In fact did not start! Must come back. Climbed up to the start of the chimney approach, but the weather looked dodgy. We debated and waited for about half an hour then decided to be cautious and retreated. We probably would have been fine...

Hidden 19/Jul/17 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jul/17 Lead dnf
MysteriousCeorl 12/Jul/17 -
steve_gibbs 08/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Robbie Blease 08/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Really nice! Led pitches 2 and 4

with Steve
Nickwild 24/Jun/17 2nd
with Bertrand Gentou, Daniel Wild
Daniel-Wild 24/Jun/17 2nd
with Bertrand (Guide), Nick
Pero 22/Jun/17 AltLd

Plus last two pitches of Papillon.

Hidden 18/Jun/17 AltLd
ndraper1 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

En route to sw ridge.

with Tim
janegallwey 17/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
wchan 21/Jul/16 -
David Horwood 31/Aug/15 -
MrRiley 30/Aug/15 AltLd

Absolutely fantastic and a great choice to escape the baking heat. Interesting approach and tricky to locate start. Took a lot longer than the guidebook 90 mins.... Got sandbagged on the 5b pitch with the "go left around the roof" part resulting in tension traverses and all sorts of shenanigans! In the end went straight up the steep corner which had just enough gear anyway! Also don't think this is HS, solid VS 4c

with Debbie Lee, Mark Reid
Debbie Lee 30/Aug/15 AltLd

Great fun route! Finding the start was a bit of a challenge. Approach along the ledges significantly less intimidating than they look from below!

with Mark Reid, Dave Riley
furbrow 28/Aug/15 AltLd

Found the start more or less ok but its best to allow time for doing so. From the single bolt at the foot of the climb you first move left on to the neighbouring slab - our guide book said "slant right" which was not exactly helpful. Good climbing albeit not sustained - the 3rd and 4th pitches are the meat. It would be VS 4c on the Etive Slabs, so any idea of it being HS is daft.

with Bruce McC
Chuck 21/Aug/15 AltLd
rubben 28/Jul/15 AltLd

Poor route description! No wonder so many people get lost...after pinnacle, walk up to crack - look right for crack. Then walk along two narrow walkways firstly 80m, then back about 30m...you'll see a solitary bolt. Here it says take the easiest and furthest right route up...wrong, this will lead you up a sketchy and loose gully - not fun! Head up the overlapping slabs corner pitch!

with Bonita Norris
Hidden 16/Jul/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden 12/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
jogle03 11/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Mark Salter 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Chris Shorrock
DigitalSteak 30/Jun/15 AltLd
Palindrome 28/Jul/14 2nd

Did an unpleasant variation up a gully to the right of the first pitch.

Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Harry Ellis 16/Jul/14 AltLd

led 1,2&3 continued to descend papillons couloir

with Chris Cox
Hidden 28/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Happy Haggis 22/Aug/13 -
Robbo1 22/Aug/13 -
Hidden 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/13 AltLd
jimmatthews 09/Aug/13 -
Jo sumner 09/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
mcaterina ?/Jul/13 AltLd

Other rope: Trine+Emily

with Skiwi Ryan
claregardiner 09/Sep/12 AltLd

With a very limited rack as thought it was bolted

wiibaker 29/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Julesthe1st 23/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Squeezed this in before heading up to camp on the Vallee Blanche. A nice half day. Papillion Arete next time.

with Paul Wolf
gooberman-hill 19/Aug/12 Lead

lovely route up corners on the l side of the lower nw face of the aiguille du peigne

with Rachael Gooberman-Hill
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
DigitalSteak ?/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 -
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
HansUDes 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S
tebs 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Tim
HimTiggins 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Bart
JRSB1991 ?/Jul/11 -
Hidden 28/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Richard Weller 21/Jul/10 2nd
with Robin Beadle
Claire Molloy 16/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 16/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Andy Clarke 01/Aug/09 AltLd rpt

Very enjoyable climbing - nice to come back and finish it after having to back off due to damp and cold in 2006. Led P2&4.

with Rob
reima ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom, Nora
oldgrey ?/Aug/09 -
with Virgil Scott
Bristoldave ?/Aug/09 Lead

followed normal route to top

sean72 09/Sep/08 -
with Kenton Cool, Chadrads
chadrads 03/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with kenton cool
Matthallinan 02/Aug/08 AltLd
JonHarvey ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
cham749 23/Jul/08 -
Hidden 01/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Brian Birtle 23/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Simon Wood
Kyuzo ?/Jul/06 -
with Hal Watts
hal ?/Jun/06 AltLd
with Virgil Scott
Hidden ?/Jul/05 -
tjekel ??/2005 -
mike.moss ??/2004 AltLd O/S
AnnaBacklund ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Les Ross ?/Jun/01 Lead
with Anthony Garvey
auld al ??/2000 AltLd O/S
neal 11/Aug/98 AltLd
stokesrees ??/1997 Lead
with Ryan Brown
ericinbristol ?/Jul/96 AltLd O/S

Continued up the Normal Route

with Richard Nadin
Climbingspike ??/1996 -
kennylind ??/1995 AltLd O/S
with With Alan
Hidden 03/Aug/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/91 Lead
frost ?/Jul/91 AltLd
with Stone
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