II, 250m. A turbo classic - this is a route with quite a reputation and with good reason. The majority of the moves are friction-based and, whilst protection is just about good enough, every pitch requires a steady head and solid slab technique. Most of the protection (other than some bolts, which are generally where you need them) is small wires and cams, so micro cams and a small set of micro wires are vital. 1) 5c. Climb a short crack and step right to belay 5m below a small overlap.2) 6b. Follow a thin seam up to the overlap then step left to go through it and gain another seam. Follow this as it arcs back rightwards to a small belay ledge.3) 6a. Go straight up the slab above then go up and left underneath a big detached flake (try not to dwell on it) to finish up a crack.4) 6b. Head straight up a slab, then traverse out right and avoid the crack above by traversing across another slab to another crack. Follow this to an exposed stance. 5) 6a+. Move left to reach a shallow groove. Climb the groove leftwards as it gradually peters out into a slab and then follow a snappy flake to belay beneath an overlap.6) 6a+. Go left for 4m to get through the overlap then come back right across a slab to a blunt overlap (do not be tempted to climb the thin seam which initially looks more appealing than the traverse right). Follow the second blunt overlap to reach a small ledge.7) 5c. Traverse up and left via a lovely crack system.Descent - Abseil the route using 2 x 50m ropes. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An instant classic. very popular route. Good rappel points. Re-equipped in August 2009 - old spinning 8mm bolt belays replaced with bomber glue-ins. Still feels like E3 6a.
F5+, F6b, F6a, F6b, F6a+, F6a+, F6a. 5 Raps with 60s.
M. Piola and G. Hopfgartner 18/Jul/1983.
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