UKC Logbook - 'Ivy Wall'

12m.

Rockfax Description
An awkward but rewarding pitch. Climb a crack to an overhung square-cut recess. Exit the recess on the left and overcome the crack above to arrive at a break. Finish more easily direct. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start just left of the left arete that bounds the front face of the crag. Climb the steep wall via an overhung niche to the top. It is also possible to traverse rightwards above the overhands (on rounded holds) and then climb to the top.

Barrie & Pete Biven, Cliff Fishwick 14/May/1961.

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User	Date		Notes
dmurray	14 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: I would thoroughly recommend this route. I would also recommend wearing a vest and swimming shorts. Don't bother with large cams, as it will make the lower section too safe and boring. There is a perfect knee jam when exiting the niche - it's so good that as well as stopping you falling down, it will also stop you having any chance of moving upwards. If you decide not to use a knee jam, don't worry, as a painful chicken wing and wedged torso will happily take your weight whilst your legs flail uselessly for over 10 minutes. Make sure you keep small nuts on your right. When you finally start making upwards progress, these can self-place to keep you safe when you're in a compromised position. A single rope with few extenders will also suffice since rope drag will make you STRONG. I climbed E4 the previous day. This ducking VS was harder.
Show beta βeta: I would thoroughly recommend this route. I would also recommend wearing a vest and swimming shorts. Don't bother with large cams, as it will make the lower section too safe and boring. There is a perfect knee jam when exiting the niche - it's so good that as well as stopping you falling down, it will also stop you having any chance of moving upwards. If you decide not to use a knee jam, don't worry, as a painful chicken wing and wedged torso will happily take your weight whilst your legs flail uselessly for over 10 minutes. Make sure you keep small nuts on your right. When you finally start making upwards progress, these can self-place to keep you safe when you're in a compromised position. A single rope with few extenders will also suffice since rope drag will make you STRONG. I climbed E4 the previous day. This ducking VS was harder.