60m, 2 pitches.
Right side of the buttress, crossing the lines of Limbic Dystrophy and Rock on Ruby to create a trio of worthwhile routes. The first pitch is directly under the line of the abseil descent, providing an opportunity for inspection and further cleaning.
Start 7m right of the start of Limbic Dystrophy at a pair of metal reinforcing rods.
Pitch 1 30m 4b/c Climb up and trend slightly left on compact rock passing two small bays (peg). Cross cleaned ledges to a pocketed wall and traverse right 3m using pockets (peg). Climb the pocketed wall up a slight groove to an interesting hole (old peg above). Climb compact rock to a large rad rhomboidally-shaped rock (nut and cam belays abound).
[An alternative is to start up Limbic Dystrophy and at the slab below the initial arete to trend rightwards to join the first pitch at the pocketed wall.]
Pitch 2 30m 5a To the left is a right-facing corner. Climb this (peg) using an inconspicuous pocket with interesting moves to reach a break. Climb the groove/arete of Limbic Dystrophy then continue directly up the arete above in a splendid position. Belay at the large ash tree.
An amusing alternative is to start by climbing onto the red rhomboid and athletically ascend the white wall.
The pitch variants were climbed by Sarju Mashru, Colin Knowles (alternative leads) and Jerzy Wieczorek on 13/5/19.
Start 7m right of the start of Limbic Dystrophy at a pair of metal reinforcing rods.
Pitch 1 30m 4b/c Climb up and trend slightly left on compact rock passing two small bays (peg). Cross cleaned ledges to a pocketed wall and traverse right 3m using pockets (peg). Climb the pocketed wall up a slight groove to an interesting hole (old peg above). Climb compact rock to a large rad rhomboidally-shaped rock (nut and cam belays abound).
[An alternative is to start up Limbic Dystrophy and at the slab below the initial arete to trend rightwards to join the first pitch at the pocketed wall.]
Pitch 2 30m 5a To the left is a right-facing corner. Climb this (peg) using an inconspicuous pocket with interesting moves to reach a break. Climb the groove/arete of Limbic Dystrophy then continue directly up the arete above in a splendid position. Belay at the large ash tree.
An amusing alternative is to start by climbing onto the red rhomboid and athletically ascend the white wall.
The pitch variants were climbed by Sarju Mashru, Colin Knowles (alternative leads) and Jerzy Wieczorek on 13/5/19.
Colin Knowles, Sarju Mashru (alternate leads), Jerzy Wieczorek, Julio Sanchez 30/May/2019.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jw_climb1 | 8 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this today. A bird flew out of the "interesting hole" and I nearly fell off. A few moves later I pulled a large hold off and it hit my helmet. It might be a fairly nice climb once the rock has settled. But we also pulled several holds off the top. Be very wary when climbing this. But on the plus side, the red rock at the belay did smell incredible, as wild herbs were growing near it | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Climbed this today. A bird flew out of the "interesting hole" and I nearly fell off. A few moves later I pulled a large hold off and it hit my helmet. It might be a fairly nice climb once the rock has settled. But we also pulled several holds off the top. Be very wary when climbing this. But on the plus side, the red rock at the belay did smell incredible, as wild herbs were growing near it |
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Route of Interest
Limbo
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))