45m.

Rockfax Description
Immaculate and intricate face climbing up the pockets and grey wall left of the steep black bulges in the middle of the wall. Start on a ledge at the base of the wall beneath the black bulges.
1) 5b, 33m. Climb the left-hand-crack-system to ledges below the black bulges. Move left to the pocket line and climb up past a thread to a peg on the left wall. Make technical moves left, up and back right to the pocket line and continue to a horizontal break. Climb up right to a stance below a corner.
2) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © Rockfax

Ed Drummond 1966

Ticklists

Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Bristol 1st E1s, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff), Coronation Street, CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
fammer 11 Aug Lead RP Led this after seconding it on Thursday.
with Lee
Led this after seconding it on Thursday.
with Lee
AndThenIWasFlying 11 Aug 2nd O/S One of the best routes I've climbed in the area. Will look forward to leading this.
with Tom
One of the best routes I've climbed in the area. Will look forward to leading this.
with Tom
fammer 8 Aug 2nd β Really good, will have to come back and lead it.
Really good, will have to come back and lead it.
JendeHoxar 8 Aug Lead O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
danbirkby 8 Aug Lead O/S
with fammer
with fammer
Flavio 8 Aug 2nd rpt
PaulJepson 29 Jul AltLd O/S P2. Don't listen to Crocker's rubbish in the new guide and do it in a one-er up Suspense, get on the original second pitch up the corner. In my opinion the TRUE essence of the route and where it earns it's stars. Friable holds and a 45 degree slab covered in biology? Phwoar where do I sign up?! A more fragrant pitch of climbing you will not find. P1 was alright too, I guess.
with Jamie , JGriffiths
P2. Don't listen to Crocker's rubbish in the new guide and do it in a one-er up Suspense, get on the original second pitch up the corner. In my opinion the TRUE essence of the route and where it earns it's stars. Friable holds and a 45 degree slab covered in biology? Phwoar where do I sign up?! A more fragrant pitch of climbing you will not find. P1 was alright too, I guess.
with Jamie , JGriffiths
JGriffiths 29 Jul AltLd dog Came off the crux section after trying to go back right too early. Pitch 2 is horrid. Aim for the top of suspense
Came off the crux section after trying to go back right too early. Pitch 2 is horrid. Aim for the top of suspense
Hidden 24 Jul Lead dog
Digga 24 Jul 2nd rpt
with Rob
with Rob
rosso 13 Jul 2nd rpt
with Reuben
with Reuben
reubenhf 13 Jul Lead O/S Big fish in a small pond. Reminds you what a good route looks like. Deeeceent.
with rosso
Big fish in a small pond. Reminds you what a good route looks like. Deeeceent.
with rosso
Tom Brierley 28 Jun Lead rpt Amazing, never stops being interesting, including the top of p2 which has now turned into a jungle.
with karenhh
Amazing, never stops being interesting, including the top of p2 which has now turned into a jungle.
with karenhh
Ian Bell 27 Jun Lead O/S As one pitch. Great route, especially the limboing.
As one pitch. Great route, especially the limboing.
Hidden 27 Jun 2nd
Tom Seccombe 24 Jun Lead O/S Climbed in one pitch.
with Brother Nick
Climbed in one pitch.
with Brother Nick
Oscar Popels 20 Jun 2nd Fantastic route. Best E1 in the gorge for me
with Glen
Fantastic route. Best E1 in the gorge for me
with Glen
BenjaminLockie 19 Jun Lead dog Got Freaked out between the peg and the cave. Want to come back for it clean.
with Chris Shorrock
Got Freaked out between the peg and the cave. Want to come back for it clean.
with Chris Shorrock
George Cox 14 May Lead O/S Good route, even with sweaty hands and polished foot holds. A pigeon flew out one of the giant pockets which cault me by surprise!
Good route, even with sweaty hands and polished foot holds. A pigeon flew out one of the giant pockets which cault me by surprise!
Fergus Moore 5 May 2nd O/S Good effort from Teo, would like to lead this myself soon
with Teo Garcia Milan
Good effort from Teo, would like to lead this myself soon
with Teo Garcia Milan
Alpinelegend69 5 May Lead
DredStripe 28 Apr Lead O/S
BrizzleChris 18 Apr Lead dnf Gave it another go but just wasn't in a good headspace, had a big panic attack and came down
with Ccar
Gave it another go but just wasn't in a good headspace, had a big panic attack and came down
with Ccar
Dominic Acland 30 Mar Lead O/S
Matt Clifton 23 Mar Lead rpt
with Helen
with Helen
Hidden ?? -
Dave Cundy ?? -
BrizzleChris 18 Nov, 2018 Lead dnf The start was under mud and being the idiot I am I stood on a large chunk. I fell onto a thread and dragged Sam along the wall. He injured his elbow and took a lot of skin off so we called it a day
with Sam Curran
The start was under mud and being the idiot I am I stood on a large chunk. I fell onto a thread and dragged Sam along the wall. He injured his elbow and took a lot of skin off so we called it a day
with Sam Curran
elliotphillips43 2 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S As varied a pitch of climbing as you’ll find in these parts.
with Rich yo
As varied a pitch of climbing as you’ll find in these parts.
with Rich yo
Rp20 2 Nov, 2018 2nd Big outing for Elliot! Properly exciting to watch
with Elliot
Big outing for Elliot! Properly exciting to watch
with Elliot
Hidden 21 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
danieljames123 10 Oct, 2018 Lead as one pitch
with tom f
as one pitch
with tom f
Hidden 7 Oct, 2018 2nd rpt
Martin Bagshaw 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
JoeCoxson 13 Sep, 2018 Lead rpt Finished as Avon guide, on the left. Fab
Finished as Avon guide, on the left. Fab
omaskrey 13 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S Fantastic route! Lovely thin crux sequence that must have been bold on lead. Joe placed 4 threaded nuts...
Fantastic route! Lovely thin crux sequence that must have been bold on lead. Joe placed 4 threaded nuts...
Rp20 6 Sep, 2018 Lead rpt Yet another epic for Marianne on second as the rain started as she put her shoes on. Despite that, the climb itself is amazing. One of the best quality routes I have climbed in the gorge to date. Brilliant protection, holds exactly where needed but interesting moves.
with Marianne Heikkala
Yet another epic for Marianne on second as the rain started as she put her shoes on. Despite that, the climb itself is amazing. One of the best quality routes I have climbed in the gorge to date. Brilliant protection, holds exactly where needed but interesting moves.
with Marianne Heikkala
Bob Peters 30 Aug, 2018 Lead G/U A settled grudge, almost.
with Colum Reid
A settled grudge, almost.
with Colum Reid
lieraza 22 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Did in one long pitch, to the abseil at the top of Suspense. I required a rest pre and post crux alas, and used Colin's gear up until the peg. Amazing route, will come back when I'm ready to lead it properly.
with Julio, Colin
Did in one long pitch, to the abseil at the top of Suspense. I required a rest pre and post crux alas, and used Colin's gear up until the peg. Amazing route, will come back when I'm ready to lead it properly.
with Julio, Colin
Josh Hadley 16 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Rp20 16 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S Showed josh the gorge does have quality before heading to the Canadian granite. Done as the sun was setting. Hard to see small face holds. Really looking forward to leading this.
Showed josh the gorge does have quality before heading to the Canadian granite. Done as the sun was setting. Hard to see small face holds. Really looking forward to leading this.
Hidden 19 Jul, 2018 2nd
shazza65 21 Jun, 2018 2nd β Great climb, pumpy through crux. I went direct instead of stepping left after peg
Great climb, pumpy through crux. I went direct instead of stepping left after peg
Jeromeg 21 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jo
with Jo
Dan0Me 15 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
with Geoff P
with Geoff P
Hidden 13 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
ian d f 13 Jun, 2018 2nd rpt
Hidden 9 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
andy dunn 23 May, 2018 2nd
with J
with J
Stefan_Morris 20 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Dickon
with Dickon
mattharper 18 May, 2018 2nd dog
ali.scott 18 May, 2018 Lead rpt
aiyer 16 May, 2018 Lead rpt
JoeCoxson 16 May, 2018 2nd rpt Lovely climbing, felt so much nicer not doing it clinically hungover.
Lovely climbing, felt so much nicer not doing it clinically hungover.
rosso 5 May, 2018 Lead rpt
jamieevans 4 May, 2018 Lead
tobydunford 4 May, 2018 2nd rpt
with Jamie evans
with Jamie evans
Jim blackford 3 May, 2018 2nd rpt
rosso 3 May, 2018 Lead Biggest fall I ever took. Kinda felt like doing something else after that. Will be back soon
Biggest fall I ever took. Kinda felt like doing something else after that. Will be back soon
Euan Todd 18 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Really nice route! Never that hard, a couple of 5b moves maybe, but slightly polished feet made this a little pumpy on the calves. Then went straight up and across rather than trending left, some potentially spooky rock in places. Very well protected!
Really nice route! Never that hard, a couple of 5b moves maybe, but slightly polished feet made this a little pumpy on the calves. Then went straight up and across rather than trending left, some potentially spooky rock in places. Very well protected!
knighty 18 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S One pitch finishing left atop suspension bridge arete. Thought provoking moves at times. Would have been a good value lead.
One pitch finishing left atop suspension bridge arete. Thought provoking moves at times. Would have been a good value lead.
Digga 18 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S Really good. A few harder moves, some delicate sequences and an elegant line. Great lead by Euan and a pleasure to climb as a three and top out in the twilight under the bridge. Type 1 Avon fun!
Really good. A few harder moves, some delicate sequences and an elegant line. Great lead by Euan and a pleasure to climb as a three and top out in the twilight under the bridge. Type 1 Avon fun!
emdawes 8 Apr, 2018 2nd
with tom.wp6
with tom.wp6
tom.wp6 8 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Mazin. Finished on Suspense belay
with emdawes
Mazin. Finished on Suspense belay
with emdawes
Hidden 6 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S
foobar123 6 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S My first E1 in the gorge, and didn't disappoint! A nice mixture of positive pockets on steep ground, then the really nice slabby dog leg with your gear just far enough below you to keep you focused. Spent ages near the top faffing with a tiny thread, before doing the next move and seeing the massive one. C'est la vie!
My first E1 in the gorge, and didn't disappoint! A nice mixture of positive pockets on steep ground, then the really nice slabby dog leg with your gear just far enough below you to keep you focused. Spent ages near the top faffing with a tiny thread, before doing the next move and seeing the massive one. C'est la vie!
samuellzc 2 Dec, 2017 Lead dog
dprib123 16 Nov, 2017 2nd dog Struggled going from pockets.
with andy
Struggled going from pockets.
with andy
Andrew Sloan 16 Nov, 2017 Lead rpt The crux move up to the peg is pretty stiff 5b, only just managed it clean. Finished left as per new guide book.
with David p
The crux move up to the peg is pretty stiff 5b, only just managed it clean. Finished left as per new guide book.
with David p
Hidden 24 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
GHawksworth 26 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S First E1 onsight! such an awesome route too! pumpy and quite technical but with great gear where you need it.
with MegWan
First E1 onsight! such an awesome route too! pumpy and quite technical but with great gear where you need it.
with MegWan
Jim blackford 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S First e1. Felt pretty steady but commiting. Its possible to lace this with threads.
First e1. Felt pretty steady but commiting. Its possible to lace this with threads.
Charlie Low 12 Aug, 2017 2nd rpt
Dale Comley 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Gibbo 25 Jul, 2017 2nd
with Matt Ward
with Matt Ward
Aaron Lines 20 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
aiyer 6 Jul, 2017 2nd chalklessly...
chalklessly...
badgerjockey 6 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S A beautiful climb. Slight polish only adds to the character. Intricate and varied and always solid rock. Lovely sunshine and a verdant belay covered in spiked speedwell, centaureas and marjoram!
with aiyer
A beautiful climb. Slight polish only adds to the character. Intricate and varied and always solid rock. Lovely sunshine and a verdant belay covered in spiked speedwell, centaureas and marjoram!
with aiyer
alexm198 5 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
Matt Harle 5 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
andy dunn 3 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt
with J
with J
tomhull 1 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Ellis Bird 1 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Jun, 2017 2nd
DHHZ 15 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Louis P
with Louis P
Larey 11 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Megan.richardson1 11 Jun, 2017 2nd
with Larey
with Larey
Adam Bosworth ?Jun, 2017 Lead
Rob Morgan 25 May, 2017 Lead dog With 3 rests. Great climb though, will have to come back. First attempt at a gorge E1.
With 3 rests. Great climb though, will have to come back. First attempt at a gorge E1.
danieleaston 25 May, 2017 2nd rpt Clean on second
Clean on second
Longsufferingropeholder 24 May, 2017 Lead O/S Romped up this in fading light. Felt rather easy. I went out on to the face past the peg but did I come back to the crozzly groove too soon??
Romped up this in fading light. Felt rather easy. I went out on to the face past the peg but did I come back to the crozzly groove too soon??
aiyer 22 May, 2017 2nd Think its time to lead this next...
Think its time to lead this next...
Wendy Watthews 22 May, 2017 Lead rpt The left hand finish is better then the one I'd climbed previously. Nice sunny post work climb.
with aiyer
The left hand finish is better then the one I'd climbed previously. Nice sunny post work climb.
with aiyer
bryp153 13 May, 2017 2nd Woo
Woo
Hidden 10 May, 2017 2nd
Abi Chard 28 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
skippington 6 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt One pitch, but traversed left to belay at the top of Suspension Bridge Arete instead of doing the grassy corner.
One pitch, but traversed left to belay at the top of Suspension Bridge Arete instead of doing the grassy corner.
Hidden 2 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
David Staples 2 Apr, 2017 2nd
Harry Martin 1 Apr, 2017 -
fuzzysheep01 1 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S In one long and superb pitch.
with eduardo
In one long and superb pitch.
with eduardo
eduardo 1 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S Ace!
Ace!
Angrypenguin 25 Mar, 2017 Lead RP Really enjoyable.
with Dan Akam
Really enjoyable.
with Dan Akam
Nathan Chrismas 10 Mar, 2017 2nd rpt Didn't feel any easier than last time, but steady. Only thing stopping me leading it is my head. Best get to work on that.
Didn't feel any easier than last time, but steady. Only thing stopping me leading it is my head. Best get to work on that.
riff156 19 Feb, 2017 2nd dog Had to rest on rope as I couldn't feel my fingers, not good when doing a fingery and crimpy route
Had to rest on rope as I couldn't feel my fingers, not good when doing a fingery and crimpy route
Chris Sansum 19 Feb, 2017 Lead dog Cheated at the crux - made an etrier out of a sling to get past the move! A bit chilly today, but great fun. Will have to come back and do it clean!
with Steve Collard
Cheated at the crux - made an etrier out of a sling to get past the move! A bit chilly today, but great fun. Will have to come back and do it clean!
with Steve Collard
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
cwildblood ??, 2017 Lead O/S
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
bryan61 13 Nov, 2016 AltLd rpt
with m meaney
with m meaney
RagingPuffin 9 Oct, 2016 Lead rpt
with Nicki, Tom
with Nicki, Tom
danieleaston 4 Oct, 2016 Lead dog rested on a thread before the crux. Led on from there. Terrible rope work. Very sustained climbing. Aim to lead this clean next year!
rested on a thread before the crux. Led on from there. Terrible rope work. Very sustained climbing. Aim to lead this clean next year!
Steve Bartle 4 Oct, 2016 2nd Fell off at the traverse bit. ..rushed it with my 'seconding head' on. Felt generally sustained and pumpy.
Fell off at the traverse bit. ..rushed it with my 'seconding head' on. Felt generally sustained and pumpy.
Hidden 17 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
Doug miller 8 Sep, 2016 2nd
cwildblood 8 Sep, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 18 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 18 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Gingerlings 16 Aug, 2016 2nd
afrosam 16 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with DaveX
with DaveX
DaveX 16 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with afrosam
with afrosam
RagingPuffin 16 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
with Kate
with Kate
Wendy 29 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Dean Russell
with Dean Russell
Jonny_86 23 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 2nd
mossrug 14 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 14 Jul, 2016 2nd
Hidden 10 Jul, 2016 Lead
Jacobclare 6 Jul, 2016 2nd
Hidden 5 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
ian d f 3 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
pearson9596 3 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
SimonWooden 5 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with Mark Lewis
with Mark Lewis
julesmckim 28 May, 2016 2nd O/S The middle section is fantastic with a great selection of interesting and positive holds.
with Rob Smart
The middle section is fantastic with a great selection of interesting and positive holds.
with Rob Smart
Wendy Watthews 8 May, 2016 2nd O/S Good lead by Joe in a single pitch, we were both a bit worse for wear after gourmans party but brilliant to be climbing in the sun
Good lead by Joe in a single pitch, we were both a bit worse for wear after gourmans party but brilliant to be climbing in the sun
JoeCoxson 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S Lead in one pitch, pretty knackered and slow by the top, but I'll blame that on the hangover. Perfect evening for a climb.
Lead in one pitch, pretty knackered and slow by the top, but I'll blame that on the hangover. Perfect evening for a climb.
steve_gibbs 7 May, 2016 Lead rpt
with Dan Akam, John Harris
with Dan Akam, John Harris
Gibbo 5 May, 2016 2nd
with James Thompson, Ed Wright
with James Thompson, Ed Wright
spragglerocks 24 Apr, 2016 AltLd Led p2
Led p2
Hidden 24 Apr, 2016 AltLd
Lumbering Oaf 24 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S Awkward traverse. Great route.
with spragglerocks, John
Awkward traverse. Great route.
with spragglerocks, John
ali.scott 12 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
with Tom N, WillAndrew
with Tom N, WillAndrew
WillAndrew 12 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S First proper (non fairy-cave) E1 onsight!
with Tom N, ali.scott
First proper (non fairy-cave) E1 onsight!
with Tom N, ali.scott
bpmclimb 31 Mar, 2016 2nd rpt
with Sarah Jane
with Sarah Jane
Hidden 13 Mar, 2016 Lead
Ollie B 28 Feb, 2016 Lead rpt Seconded previously. Viciously cold.
with B.Brewer
Seconded previously. Viciously cold.
with B.Brewer
Angrypenguin 11 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead P2. A delicate section of pockets and sidepulls halfway up the first pitch.
Lead P2. A delicate section of pockets and sidepulls halfway up the first pitch.
catty_9 11 Feb, 2016 2nd O/S Massive Jelly legs on the section moving left but just about managed to hang on
Massive Jelly legs on the section moving left but just about managed to hang on
Hidden 11 Feb, 2016 AltLd rpt
Peter Durin ??, 2016 Lead O/S
G Weatherley 29 Dec, 2015 AltLd Led second pitch. Very technical first pitch - enjoyable.
with Richard Ive
Led second pitch. Very technical first pitch - enjoyable.
with Richard Ive
Hidden 22 Nov, 2015 2nd
Hidden 22 Nov, 2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 31 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow 31 Oct, 2015 2nd
with nniff
with nniff
nniff 31 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 25 Oct, 2015 Lead rpt
Dave Rumney 14 Oct, 2015 Lead most enjoyable
most enjoyable
Flavio 4 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
with robinge
with robinge
ad111 30 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
tomwright1509 23 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
Tim_C7 13 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Luke Williams
with Luke Williams
Hidden 13 Sep, 2015 Solo rpt
Hidden 10 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Sep, 2015 2nd dog
steve_gibbs 8 Sep, 2015 2nd rpt
with Graham McGrath
with Graham McGrath
David Maddison 8 Sep, 2015 Lead dog
ChrisWills 6 Sep, 2015 2nd A bit tricky in the middle - great exposure
A bit tricky in the middle - great exposure
jsmcfarland 27 Aug, 2015 2nd rpt Seconded Tim who made the crux look pretty easy! Great route. Seems easier and more natural to put in a good directional and traverse across to suspense belay than do another pitch up to the main ab point in the middle of the crag
Seconded Tim who made the crux look pretty easy! Great route. Seems easier and more natural to put in a good directional and traverse across to suspense belay than do another pitch up to the main ab point in the middle of the crag
Hidden 27 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
petegunn 22 Aug, 2015 Lead
Hidden 22 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
jsmcfarland 11 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Fantastic climb with good gear and very technical moves. Absolutely loved it! Crux seems hard no matter what way you do it, that 2 finger pocket is grim. It seems better to just climb up and left to the belay of Suspense etc with some directional runners rather than do the top pitch (I still haven't figured out where that is!?)
Fantastic climb with good gear and very technical moves. Absolutely loved it! Crux seems hard no matter what way you do it, that 2 finger pocket is grim. It seems better to just climb up and left to the belay of Suspense etc with some directional runners rather than do the top pitch (I still haven't figured out where that is!?)
steve phillips 2 Aug, 2015 2nd fab climbing
with evhall
fab climbing
with evhall
evhall 2 Aug, 2015 Lead rpt Fantastic route - lots of thread opportunities so take plenty of slings
Fantastic route - lots of thread opportunities so take plenty of slings
David Clover ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 31 Jul, 2015 2nd rpt
with Pauline Picchio
with Pauline Picchio
Nathan Chrismas 11 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Kept me thinking all the way, excellent.
with falch
Kept me thinking all the way, excellent.
with falch
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
SiyP 4 Jul, 2015 2nd dog
steve_gibbs 4 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt
with Simon Peacock
with Simon Peacock
martinlevya82 20 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 19 Jun, 2015 2nd rpt
with martin Levy
with martin Levy
LJKing 14 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Great climb.
with Paul Clarkson
Great climb.
with Paul Clarkson
9fingerjon 11 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
with Neil
with Neil
Neil McA 11 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Morgan
with Jonathan Morgan
Hillseeker 8 Jun, 2015 2nd Quality route.
with Tim Larrad
Quality route.
with Tim Larrad
Hidden 6 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
gingerbex 4 Jun, 2015 2nd crux move I found hard. Didn't do the v vegetated 2nd pitch, abbed from the station at top of suspense
with Legs
crux move I found hard. Didn't do the v vegetated 2nd pitch, abbed from the station at top of suspense
with Legs
Legs 4 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt Repeat ascent after seconding Steve up it last month. Fantastic climbing all the way up. A well protected crux which requires decisive moves as it has some steepness to it. Finished up left as the second pitch looks like it will detract from the fantastic first pitch.
Repeat ascent after seconding Steve up it last month. Fantastic climbing all the way up. A well protected crux which requires decisive moves as it has some steepness to it. Finished up left as the second pitch looks like it will detract from the fantastic first pitch.
steve_gibbs 4 Jun, 2015 2nd rpt
with Legs
with Legs
emdawes 4 Jun, 2015 Lead β
with Paul southgate, Larey
with Paul southgate, Larey
Hidden 22 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 May, 2015 Lead O/S
my 11 May, 2015 2nd
Hidden 11 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Richardlake 10 May, 2015 Lead O/S Best route I've done in the gorge so far. Great holds (very positive for avon) and really well protected. The crux is ace, and there is a good rest after it. Take plenty of slings to thread round the weird calcite formations.
Best route I've done in the gorge so far. Great holds (very positive for avon) and really well protected. The crux is ace, and there is a good rest after it. Take plenty of slings to thread round the weird calcite formations.
will_lake 10 May, 2015 2nd O/S
Hugobristol 4 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Dino Dave 4 May, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 19 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
RichyBOYY 16 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Amazing climb - pretty pumpy too,went direct through the pockets (apparently harder) because stepping out to the face seemed bold but i might have been trying to step out at the wrong point? - i reckon its pretty hard and sustained at E1. Did as one long pitch to the belay on the left.
with David Clover
Amazing climb - pretty pumpy too,went direct through the pockets (apparently harder) because stepping out to the face seemed bold but i might have been trying to step out at the wrong point? - i reckon its pretty hard and sustained at E1. Did as one long pitch to the belay on the left.
with David Clover
Hidden 16 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 16 Apr, 2015 Lead rpt
with Legs
with Legs
youwillfindjimbo 12 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 1 Mar, 2015 2nd rpt
Hidden 4 Feb, 2015 Lead RP
duncanedgley 4 Feb, 2015 2nd
George Frisby 25 Jan, 2015 2nd dog
steve_gibbs 25 Jan, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden ??, 2015 -
loic.menzies ??, 2015 Lead O/S Might have been 2014?
with James Hadley, Elsa hadley
Might have been 2014?
with James Hadley, Elsa hadley
Tom Pillow ??, 2015 Lead second E1, nice and technical but still really tiring. Good climb!
with David Pillow
second E1, nice and technical but still really tiring. Good climb!
with David Pillow
Hidden 30 Nov, 2014 Lead dog
gingernick 29 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S Really good.
with Dean Jones
Really good.
with Dean Jones
Eagertom ?Nov, 2014 AltLd dog Rested on second during first pitch due to nerves, but pulled all the moves. Stupendous finish and awesome hanging belay.
with Thom Jenkinson
Rested on second during first pitch due to nerves, but pulled all the moves. Stupendous finish and awesome hanging belay.
with Thom Jenkinson
LucasHarazin 2 Oct, 2014 Lead rpt I seconded it couple months earlier
with Jess Broadhurst
I seconded it couple months earlier
with Jess Broadhurst
Graham Westbrook 27 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 16 Sep, 2014 2nd rpt
with Max L
with Max L
Max Lowry 16 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Thought was an interesting climb :D, was told by belayer i just met " i have never seen anyone use as little gear as you...and did you miss the peg and hero wire....?" :D was fun route :D
Thought was an interesting climb :D, was told by belayer i just met " i have never seen anyone use as little gear as you...and did you miss the peg and hero wire....?" :D was fun route :D
tobydunford 10 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
with Kirsty Kerr
mattkemp70 ?Sep, 2014 2nd
with Westy
with Westy
Tom Brierley 23 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Very pleasant :)
with karenhh
Very pleasant :)
with karenhh
felixizzy 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Had alot of fun trying to get a larks foot on the studding.
Had alot of fun trying to get a larks foot on the studding.
davidclare 7 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
jon_ridley 7 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
CatMc ?Aug, 2014 2nd
with clams
with clams
clams ?Aug, 2014 Lead
with CatMc
with CatMc
Dan0Me 23 Jul, 2014 2nd
with Geoff P
with Geoff P
Adam Hill 17 Jul, 2014 -
Hidden 10 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 6 Jul, 2014 2nd rpt
with twem
with twem
andy dunn 23 Jun, 2014 2nd
with J
with J
andy dunn 18 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt
with J
with J
Annabel Tall 18 Jun, 2014 2nd hauled up bits would be a better description than climbed!
hauled up bits would be a better description than climbed!
danJBA 15 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Avon Man ?Jun, 2014 Solo rpt
mattprince 4 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead 2nd Pitch.
Lead 2nd Pitch.
just one more 4 May, 2014 Lead
joedoherty 4 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
danmullett 28 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Slick 14 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S First Gorge E1. Abseiled off in the dark!
with Kevin Vans-Colina
First Gorge E1. Abseiled off in the dark!
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Misha 13 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S Last route of the day - literally! Helen took a little while to battle to the top and by the time Phil an dI set off to second it must have been after 8pm. Got down from the ab just before 9pm, walked out in the gathering gloom but just about managed not to have to use a head torch! A great route - the pockets look like the kind of stuff in photos from somewhere in Spain and the crux section is superb if polished. Helen finished to the left at the Suspense belay, which added some 5a moves to traverse across. Also seconded Helen up Suspense and Phil up the Earl of Perth.
with Helen, philhilo
Last route of the day - literally! Helen took a little while to battle to the top and by the time Phil an dI set off to second it must have been after 8pm. Got down from the ab just before 9pm, walked out in the gathering gloom but just about managed not to have to use a head torch! A great route - the pockets look like the kind of stuff in photos from somewhere in Spain and the crux section is superb if polished. Helen finished to the left at the Suspense belay, which added some 5a moves to traverse across. Also seconded Helen up Suspense and Phil up the Earl of Perth.
with Helen, philhilo
philhilo 13 Apr, 2014 2nd rpt Done in the dark for the second time!
with heg, Misha
Done in the dark for the second time!
with heg, Misha
Hidden 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Stuart William 11 Apr, 2014 2nd β
with Ben D
with Ben D
Cheese Monkey 11 Apr, 2014 Lead β Excellent! Glad to get round to leading this one. Took a while to commit to crux but nailed it eventually
with Stuart I
Excellent! Glad to get round to leading this one. Took a while to commit to crux but nailed it eventually
with Stuart I
James Smith 8 Apr, 2014 2nd
with tom p
with tom p
Hidden 8 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
adam 24 5 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Finished at the rock anchor on top of suspense so may not be the true line. Very enjoyable though.
with riddle
Finished at the rock anchor on top of suspense so may not be the true line. Very enjoyable though.
with riddle
riddle 5 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
with adam 24
with adam 24
alastairbegley 2 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt First clean lead of the route, what a fantastic climb!
with Mark Van Rossum
First clean lead of the route, what a fantastic climb!
with Mark Van Rossum
Tony Holdsworth 29 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S An excellent route - bold lead though.
with Martin Haworth
An excellent route - bold lead though.
with Martin Haworth
Martin Haworth 29 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Mackinclimb 10 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Jessbroadhurst 9 Mar, 2014 2nd
Hidden 1 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
James Jackson ??, 2014 -
Neil ??, 2014 Lead
Mayaculpa 9 Dec, 2013 2nd dnf Started the traverse too early and wasted all my energy on it !!
Started the traverse too early and wasted all my energy on it !!
pheotleyr 9 Dec, 2013 Lead O/S Quite possibly the best climb I've done at Avon. I wouldn't say it's soft for E1, but it's definitely not hard for E1. The line of pockets and the traverses are both stunning. Didn't bother with the crappy looking easy second pitch, climbed straight up then left to the Arete belay. Where's the peg mentioned in the guidebook btw? Didn't find it.
Quite possibly the best climb I've done at Avon. I wouldn't say it's soft for E1, but it's definitely not hard for E1. The line of pockets and the traverses are both stunning. Didn't bother with the crappy looking easy second pitch, climbed straight up then left to the Arete belay. Where's the peg mentioned in the guidebook btw? Didn't find it.
Dean Russell 30 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
kenneM 13 Nov, 2013 2nd
with Mike Dudley
with Mike Dudley
squicky 19 Oct, 2013 2nd dog Two large blocks came off in my hand on the easy bit before the ramp resulting in a fall.
with Exodus
Two large blocks came off in my hand on the easy bit before the ramp resulting in a fall.
with Exodus
Alex Winter 7 Oct, 2013 2nd rpt Pleasure, as always.
with Alex
Pleasure, as always.
with Alex
alexjz 5 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Sep, 2013 Lead
leigh 5 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S Middle section where you move left out of the pocket line is really enjoyable. Kev did it all in one pitch. Top a bit overgrown.
with Kev
Middle section where you move left out of the pocket line is really enjoyable. Kev did it all in one pitch. Top a bit overgrown.
with Kev
steve-grigg 2 Sep, 2013 Lead rpt Fantastic route, possibly best ever. Most pumped I have been on a trad route, felt so good to get clean! Ran it as 1 pitch, shame there isn't a lower off at the top of the 1st pitch as the second is pointless
Fantastic route, possibly best ever. Most pumped I have been on a trad route, felt so good to get clean! Ran it as 1 pitch, shame there isn't a lower off at the top of the 1st pitch as the second is pointless
machine45 2 Sep, 2013 2nd dog First trad climb I have done in the UK. Great fun.
with Steve Grigg
First trad climb I have done in the UK. Great fun.
with Steve Grigg
Webster 2 Sep, 2013 2nd awesome main pitch, sustained and keeps on giving. top pitch is crap, would be worth 3 stars otherwise
awesome main pitch, sustained and keeps on giving. top pitch is crap, would be worth 3 stars otherwise
Andrew Sloan 31 Aug, 2013 Lead dog I just managed the tough crux move up to the peg before having to take a short rest. Higher up I lost my bearings and ended up at the left hand ab point. Really nice route but a shame about the poor quality upper pitch.
I just managed the tough crux move up to the peg before having to take a short rest. Higher up I lost my bearings and ended up at the left hand ab point. Really nice route but a shame about the poor quality upper pitch.
andy dunn 13 Aug, 2013 Lead rpt
with J
with J
zcsharp 26 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt Got around to leading it, as good as i remembered.
Got around to leading it, as good as i remembered.
steve_gibbs 26 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with zcsharp
with zcsharp
james.slater 13 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Fantastic route! Well protected and sustained. The technical face section is very cool!
Fantastic route! Well protected and sustained. The technical face section is very cool!
Hidden 13 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Gibbo 6 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf
with Ollie Keynes
with Ollie Keynes
squicky 4 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Done as one pitch. Great climb but surprised I made it as I was pumped off my face before I even started. Spent most of the route trying (and failing) to find somewhere to rest and have a cry.
Done as one pitch. Great climb but surprised I made it as I was pumped off my face before I even started. Spent most of the route trying (and failing) to find somewhere to rest and have a cry.
Cheese Monkey 4 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S MNOP - 2398
MNOP - 2398
Hidden 29 Jun, 2013 2nd dog
georgeevans88 31 May, 2013 2nd O/S
aipattison 31 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 3 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with George
with George
papashango 3 May, 2013 Lead
with Jim S, rob.grafton
with Jim S, rob.grafton
georgeevans88 3 May, 2013 2nd O/S
TDSvejstrup 24 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
with Simon White
with Simon White
Andy Clarke 20 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Very good, varied climbing. Did as one pitch, then shuffled over to arete belay. Moves to get from pockets onto face needed a bit of oopmh, then traverse was pleasantly technical contrast.
with SGD
Very good, varied climbing. Did as one pitch, then shuffled over to arete belay. Moves to get from pockets onto face needed a bit of oopmh, then traverse was pleasantly technical contrast.
with SGD
SGD 20 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S amazing route.
amazing route.
Stanners 2 Mar, 2013 Lead rpt as good as the first time I did it!
with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Quarryboy
as good as the first time I did it!
with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Quarryboy
Hidden 2 Mar, 2013 2nd rpt
richiebongo ??, 2013 Lead O/S Sometime in the naughties.
Sometime in the naughties.
tskelhon ??, 2013 Lead O/S
clmacdonald ??, 2013 2nd
jcw ??, 2013 -
alastairbegley 8 Dec, 2012 2nd rpt
Hidden 30 Nov, 2012 2nd rpt
HarryB 30 Nov, 2012 Lead rpt First time on lead
First time on lead
Kemics 25 Oct, 2012 2nd rpt one long pitch
with dan ely
one long pitch
with dan ely
Hidden 21 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
irishguyinlondon 20 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S Roo took the 5b lead & I had to dog that one but definitely enjoyed it. Very fingery moves. Found the start of the 4b tricky but otherwise an interesting traverse.
with RooFin
Roo took the 5b lead & I had to dog that one but definitely enjoyed it. Very fingery moves. Found the start of the 4b tricky but otherwise an interesting traverse.
with RooFin
zcsharp 12 Sep, 2012 2nd Very fun and an excellent climb, i want to lead it soon.
Very fun and an excellent climb, i want to lead it soon.
James Smith 12 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S done as one awesome pitch...really cool moves through the pockets and out onto the wall out left.
with jamie
done as one awesome pitch...really cool moves through the pockets and out onto the wall out left.
with jamie
tommytuffa 4 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Top pitch heavily vegitated
with Libby
Top pitch heavily vegitated
with Libby
alastairbegley 3 Sep, 2012 Lead dog Sat on gear at the crux, great climb
Sat on gear at the crux, great climb
mattshort 2 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Alan100
with Alan100
Alan100 2 Sep, 2012 Lead Led the whole thing in one pitch - rope drag wasn't too bad either. Great route with a nice delicate crux sequence. I didn't think it was very pumpy - not compared to the Earl anyway..
Led the whole thing in one pitch - rope drag wasn't too bad either. Great route with a nice delicate crux sequence. I didn't think it was very pumpy - not compared to the Earl anyway..
JamesRich 9 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Got to be one of my favourite routes I've climbed so far. Pleased with how smoothly it went especially as I hadn't warmed up beforehand.
Got to be one of my favourite routes I've climbed so far. Pleased with how smoothly it went especially as I hadn't warmed up beforehand.
Stanners 9 Aug, 2012 2nd rpt Solid stuff from James, great effort!
with James Rich
Solid stuff from James, great effort!
with James Rich
Edvenables ?Aug, 2012 Lead O/S First E1 and 4th lead. Led in one pitch, went up right the wrong way, ended up in a vegetated groove finishing at some massive stake at a full rope length. Very scary, felt my balls grow as I powered through the crux traverse. Very pumped on polished crimps so couldn't stop to put gear in and ended up risking massive fall. Solid climb.
First E1 and 4th lead. Led in one pitch, went up right the wrong way, ended up in a vegetated groove finishing at some massive stake at a full rope length. Very scary, felt my balls grow as I powered through the crux traverse. Very pumped on polished crimps so couldn't stop to put gear in and ended up risking massive fall. Solid climb.
Hidden 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 17 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with DeDe
with DeDe
Hidden 15 Jul, 2012 2nd
Billg 15 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with devo
with devo
Hidden 15 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
Kemics 9 Jun, 2012 AltLd rpt Lead second pitch.
Lead second pitch.
Anthony Dixon 9 Jun, 2012 Lead
evilweed 29 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Tom Prince, fragglerock
with Tom Prince, fragglerock
Hidden 26 May, 2012 AltLd
richsmithinbristol 20 May, 2012 2nd
shoulders 20 May, 2012 Lead O/S
hutchay 19 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead the first long pitch, 2nd on the second pitch.
Lead the first long pitch, 2nd on the second pitch.
pffft 19 May, 2012 2nd O/S First E1 :-) Lovely climb, loved it. Found a bit pumpy, but manageable.
with Monk
First E1 :-) Lovely climb, loved it. Found a bit pumpy, but manageable.
with Monk
David Clover 19 May, 2012 AltLd
with hutchay
with hutchay
Monk 19 May, 2012 Lead O/S I really enjoyed this. Really nice moves, although quite pumpy (mostly due to faffing with gear on the steep section). Excellent gear.
with Luke Vincent
I really enjoyed this. Really nice moves, although quite pumpy (mostly due to faffing with gear on the steep section). Excellent gear.
with Luke Vincent
Nick Russell 12 May, 2012 Lead O/S Excellent and sustained
with Jason
Excellent and sustained
with Jason
Didymus 11 May, 2012 Lead RP Ground up 3rd go, found it hard for the grade.
with Nick
Ground up 3rd go, found it hard for the grade.
with Nick
gb05 29 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Mackinclimb 29 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
Kemics 25 Mar, 2012 Lead Ground up. Blew the on-sight due to crappy rope work and a hangover. Mid crux decided to back up the peg, bomber camalot 1 above the peg, clipped under rather than over the double rope causing horrendous rope drag, tried to reverse the crux, got pumped and slumped onto the gear. Swore. Lowered, pulled ropes and climbed clean.
Ground up. Blew the on-sight due to crappy rope work and a hangover. Mid crux decided to back up the peg, bomber camalot 1 above the peg, clipped under rather than over the double rope causing horrendous rope drag, tried to reverse the crux, got pumped and slumped onto the gear. Swore. Lowered, pulled ropes and climbed clean.
katherinesydney 24 Mar, 2012 AltLd rpt Climbed this with totally different, and better, moves than last time. Tasty crux sequence. Led P2.
with Kemics
Climbed this with totally different, and better, moves than last time. Tasty crux sequence. Led P2.
with Kemics
LucaC 10 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with HarryB
with HarryB
HarryB 10 Mar, 2012 2nd rpt
with LucaC
with LucaC
Hidden 25 Feb, 2012 2nd rpt
Hidden 23 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 15 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
with steve read
with steve read
Kevster 15 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
beardy mike ??, 2012 -
peterbeaumont ??, 2012 -
peterbeaumont ??, 2012 -
Hidden 18 Nov, 2011 2nd rpt
Hidden 18 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
cbeard 17 Nov, 2011 2nd Combined with Baby Duck. Fell on traverse as handhold broke off!
Combined with Baby Duck. Fell on traverse as handhold broke off!
HarryB 15 Nov, 2011 2nd dog in the dark, no chalk and got flash pumped, pulled on the peg
with Al
in the dark, no chalk and got flash pumped, pulled on the peg
with Al
Ali D 15 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
with HarryB
with HarryB
evhall 13 Nov, 2011 Lead dog managed to peel off the crux - no harm done - just need not to panic! Lovely climb
with Fletch
managed to peel off the crux - no harm done - just need not to panic! Lovely climb
with Fletch
AlistairB 28 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
LisaA 28 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
ashley_sandeman 20 Aug, 2011 2nd β Me and The Norfolk Machine rocked up for another crack at Limbo with TNM ready to push E1 lead and show a little less disco leg. To be fair he stormed it, and we took the traverse route at the top of the first pitch to join Suspense and head for the abseil plate as we were climbing on a single 60m rope, and the rockfax P2 4b would have left us too high. For the follow it was a decent pumpy climb with an excellent crux that's solved with a small left hand side pull. It's difficult to see when you're below the thin ledge when you head out left above the first peg, but you can stretch out to find it. From there you can take your feet left also and almost layback to reach above to a good hold allowing you to gain feet upwards. Easier to do on a second. It would have felt bold on lead, and TNM uused his monkey-like skills to get up without ever finding it. An excellent rest awaits with ambple knee-bar in the small cave to shake out, and then power on.
with Richard Miles
Me and The Norfolk Machine rocked up for another crack at Limbo with TNM ready to push E1 lead and show a little less disco leg. To be fair he stormed it, and we took the traverse route at the top of the first pitch to join Suspense and head for the abseil plate as we were climbing on a single 60m rope, and the rockfax P2 4b would have left us too high. For the follow it was a decent pumpy climb with an excellent crux that's solved with a small left hand side pull. It's difficult to see when you're below the thin ledge when you head out left above the first peg, but you can stretch out to find it. From there you can take your feet left also and almost layback to reach above to a good hold allowing you to gain feet upwards. Easier to do on a second. It would have felt bold on lead, and TNM uused his monkey-like skills to get up without ever finding it. An excellent rest awaits with ambple knee-bar in the small cave to shake out, and then power on.
with Richard Miles
mick1jones 5 Aug, 2011 2nd dog Led first and struggled then seconded, got pumped and messed up crux sequence
with Rich Rogers
Led first and struggled then seconded, got pumped and messed up crux sequence
with Rich Rogers
Dave Mahon ?Aug, 2011 Lead dog My first E1 lead. Got pumped and took a whipper off the crux wall. This added some excitement to the experience!
with Brian Mead
My first E1 lead. Got pumped and took a whipper off the crux wall. This added some excitement to the experience!
with Brian Mead
Stanners 24 Jul, 2011 2nd rpt As good fun as last time. Did as one pitch doing a variation, finishing at the belay plate of suspension bridge arete.
As good fun as last time. Did as one pitch doing a variation, finishing at the belay plate of suspension bridge arete.
Hidden 24 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Stanley 19 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S I led the second much easier pitch, nothing in comparisson to the first, but a very nice climb.
I led the second much easier pitch, nothing in comparisson to the first, but a very nice climb.
Stanners 19 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1. Really enjoyable climbing! Rained as I started belaying martin up first pitch though which made the 2nd pitch not very pleasent. Well volunteered mart to lead in the wet.
with Martin Stanfield
Led P1. Really enjoyable climbing! Rained as I started belaying martin up first pitch though which made the 2nd pitch not very pleasent. Well volunteered mart to lead in the wet.
with Martin Stanfield
Ed Babs 9 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with IainAM
with IainAM
Hidden 9 Jun, 2011 2nd β
Kirill 2 May, 2011 Lead dog 4 rests on the rope including 2 lead falls.
4 rests on the rope including 2 lead falls.
cem 2 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 May, 2011 2nd
CrispsSmiths 2 May, 2011 2nd
with Kirill
with Kirill
stvredmond 30 Apr, 2011 Lead loved the pocket pulling and got steep quickly. worthy of its 3 stars
with Johno
loved the pocket pulling and got steep quickly. worthy of its 3 stars
with Johno
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 2nd
crossdressingrodney 24 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
with Tomar
with Tomar
Tomar 24 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Took it direct following the pockets all the way. Best route of the suspension so far.
Took it direct following the pockets all the way. Best route of the suspension so far.
Hidden 23 Mar, 2011 Lead rpt
just one more 20 Mar, 2011 Lead
with tony l, Svenn G
with tony l, Svenn G
hutster781 20 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
with sveinn, steve barnard
with sveinn, steve barnard
AlexRenshaw 13 Mar, 2011 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Hidden 6 Mar, 2011 Lead rpt
Hidden 2 Mar, 2011 2nd β
Ross Davidson 2 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S The holds on the slab are really good, you just have to find them first
with Clay C
The holds on the slab are really good, you just have to find them first
with Clay C
Hidden 17 Feb, 2011 Lead dnf
bpmclimb 8 Feb, 2011 Lead rpt Very cold rock. Numb fingers, so downclimbed from traverse to ledge to warm them up, then it went OK.
with hms
Very cold rock. Numb fingers, so downclimbed from traverse to ledge to warm them up, then it went OK.
with hms
Hidden 8 Feb, 2011 2nd β
LouiseP ?Feb, 2011 2nd dog
with Clay C
with Clay C
alasdair19 ??, 2011 - with mich
with mich
Jonnie Watkins ??, 2011 -
_m.cox_ ?Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
with Jason Williams
with Jason Williams
Chris Sansum 24 Oct, 2010 2nd rpt
with Richard Lade
with Richard Lade
Paul_southgate68 13 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S
with alex harper
with alex harper
tommoulds 10 Oct, 2010 2nd β
with Schramm
with Schramm
Hidden 10 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
TDembrey 4 Oct, 2010 Lead dnf
with Clay C
with Clay C
LisaA 12 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Matt Fry 12 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S nice climbing up the pocketed groove.
nice climbing up the pocketed groove.
bigdrew 12 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
katherinesydney 11 Sep, 2010 2nd dog strenuous crux, but some great standupandslap moves... at least, the way i did it, anyway... sense of drama heightened by the splat of a jumper, followed by sirens and epic recovery operation. not nice.
with gary burgess
strenuous crux, but some great standupandslap moves... at least, the way i did it, anyway... sense of drama heightened by the splat of a jumper, followed by sirens and epic recovery operation. not nice.
with gary burgess
Hidden 11 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Sgt. Vest 11 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
with RB1
with RB1
thomasadixon 7 Sep, 2010 2nd rpt
BeccaSnowden 7 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S Spent ages commiting to the traverse, which felt hard 5b when I did it. Fab route!
Spent ages commiting to the traverse, which felt hard 5b when I did it. Fab route!
Hidden 1 Aug, 2010 Lead
Chris Sansum 3 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Gary P1, Chris P2 Guide book doesn't make it clear that if you take the option of belaying on the left, you aren't in the right position to start P2. After ending up there, we ended up down-climbing to the start of P2, setting up a second belay, then doing P2. Wished we hadn't bothered as P2 was very poor quality compared to P1.
with Gary Lewin
Gary P1, Chris P2 Guide book doesn't make it clear that if you take the option of belaying on the left, you aren't in the right position to start P2. After ending up there, we ended up down-climbing to the start of P2, setting up a second belay, then doing P2. Wished we hadn't bothered as P2 was very poor quality compared to P1.
with Gary Lewin
andy dunn 24 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with J
with J
Si dH 20 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S Direct version. Couple of quite hard pulls.
with Andy Morris
Direct version. Couple of quite hard pulls.
with Andy Morris
AJM 20 Jun, 2010 Lead Had fallen off the indirect version about 3 years back. . Avoided the little diversion this time - some tough moves going straight up. Great day, if very hot!
with Si dH
Had fallen off the indirect version about 3 years back. . Avoided the little diversion this time - some tough moves going straight up. Great day, if very hot!
with Si dH
lizzie789 12 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
RagingPuffin 12 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
fishinwater 18 May, 2010 2nd
with Barry
with Barry
Dale ?May, 2010 Lead O/S another brill route on sunspension like being back in Kalymnos with those pockets.
with johny
another brill route on sunspension like being back in Kalymnos with those pockets.
with johny
ericinbristol 16 Apr, 2010 2nd β Did a direct version that is about E2 5c.
with Barry Durston
Did a direct version that is about E2 5c.
with Barry Durston
plant_based_tommo 10 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S probably the nicest e1 in avon.
with alex harper
probably the nicest e1 in avon.
with alex harper
Hidden 9 Mar, 2010 2nd rpt
Hidden 9 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
Pete Polish 6 Mar, 2010 Lead β full-on beta form Will and Doug , both scared to death
full-on beta form Will and Doug , both scared to death
Hidden 21 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S
Aaron Lines ??, 2010 Lead O/S
with frank
with frank
fragglerock 10 Oct, 2009 2nd O/S Cad Led through in one clean pitch to the belay point (following the pocketed groove throughout). I seconded the climb cleanly before scrambling out to the top of the butress.
with Caedmon Mullin
Cad Led through in one clean pitch to the belay point (following the pocketed groove throughout). I seconded the climb cleanly before scrambling out to the top of the butress.
with Caedmon Mullin
Chubbard 4 Oct, 2009 2nd rpt
with Derek, JimR
with Derek, JimR
markfromstoke 20 Sep, 2009 2nd
with ian d f
with ian d f
ian d f 20 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
scorpia97 20 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S have seconded before, but as I couldn't even remember where the route started and went, let alone the moves, it was more similar to onsight. Managed to get lost and cut left to early and went up new beginnings for a bit. was far too hot, sweated too much. but nice climb.
with Paul
have seconded before, but as I couldn't even remember where the route started and went, let alone the moves, it was more similar to onsight. Managed to get lost and cut left to early and went up new beginnings for a bit. was far too hot, sweated too much. but nice climb.
with Paul
Jessie Rushbrooke 13 Sep, 2009 Lead β
with GF
with GF
Hidden 12 Sep, 2009 Lead dog
Quirina 12 Sep, 2009 2nd dog Hanging off one finger trying to get a nut nr. 6 out was a bit time and energy consuming.
with larsen
Hanging off one finger trying to get a nut nr. 6 out was a bit time and energy consuming.
with larsen
ruaidh 5 Sep, 2009 2nd Strenuous move out of the scoop. Must stop climbing with a hangover.
with Baz
Strenuous move out of the scoop. Must stop climbing with a hangover.
with Baz
Hidden 15 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2009 2nd dog
Dan_Carroll 11 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Eric Herring
with Eric Herring
Greg Pittam ?Jun, 2009 Lead rpt
with Livi
with Livi
needlefluff ?Jun, 2009 2nd
Danos 30 May, 2009 Lead O/S Was rather underwhelmed by it - too much vegetation but a reasonable route
with Andras
Was rather underwhelmed by it - too much vegetation but a reasonable route
with Andras
DorsetGareth 12 May, 2009 2nd O/S Would have found this a spooky lead, traversing right beneath the groove.
Would have found this a spooky lead, traversing right beneath the groove.
cornishben 12 May, 2009 2nd rpt
with Tim Riley
with Tim Riley
Hidden 3 May, 2009 Lead
Maia 3 May, 2009 2nd O/S
just one more 3 May, 2009 Lead
with Max B
with Max B
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead O/S
lukehodson 19 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S best route of its grade in the gorge?
with Howard
best route of its grade in the gorge?
with Howard
just one more 19 Oct, 2008 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
with tim b, Svenn G
scorpia97 14 Sep, 2008 2nd
Hidden 14 Sep, 2008 2nd
Andrew1 13 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with Rachel Smith
with Rachel Smith
Luke Marsden ?Jul, 2008 2nd O/S
with Keith Marsden
with Keith Marsden
Hidden 12 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 12 Jun, 2008 2nd rpt Direct. Good and hard!
Direct. Good and hard!
Greg Pittam 12 May, 2008 2nd β Best climb i've done in the Gorge, Can't wait to lead it!
with Sam Howel
Best climb i've done in the Gorge, Can't wait to lead it!
with Sam Howel
Hidden 10 May, 2008 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 2 May, 2008 Lead O/S Pumped right out hanging around on the crux, need to learn to move quicker!
with Maria
Pumped right out hanging around on the crux, need to learn to move quicker!
with Maria
Feeling bold 2 May, 2008 2nd dog The pocket bit was well hard and pumpy, I had to rest on rope.
The pocket bit was well hard and pumpy, I had to rest on rope.
Hidden 27 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
CarolineH 16 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S I led pitch 2 (4b) - full of tree and lots of snail, not worth it - took the shine off the route (first pitch brilliant.) Recommend going left to abseil bolt rather than doing the 2nd pitch (both alternatives described in book).
with Joe
I led pitch 2 (4b) - full of tree and lots of snail, not worth it - took the shine off the route (first pitch brilliant.) Recommend going left to abseil bolt rather than doing the 2nd pitch (both alternatives described in book).
with Joe
James Marshall 2 Apr, 2008 2nd
schwenk ?Apr, 2008 TR
Will Homoky 29 Mar, 2008 2nd
with Tom Hindson
with Tom Hindson
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 ?Dec, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Nov, 2007 2nd
RagingPuffin 25 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
with Tom Kett
with Tom Kett
Al Franks 25 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
with Tom Kett
with Tom Kett
georgeevans88 25 Nov, 2007 Lead
chris sm 10 Nov, 2007 2nd
with Julie Osborn
with Julie Osborn
Dr Caterpillar 27 Oct, 2007 2nd O/S Direct
with Circus
Direct
with Circus
Circus 27 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S Direct. Nice.
Direct. Nice.
Hidden 24 Oct, 2007 2nd O/S
Hidden 24 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
pelvoux 20 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with Mario
with Mario
pezzerrr 14 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
simonf 7 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
with Chris
with Chris
John Southworth ?Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with Chris Snell
with Chris Snell
just one more 18 May, 2007 Lead
with rich h
with rich h
Owen W-G 5 May, 2007 Lead O/S While recovering from virus having eaten v little in 48hs previous. Not v sensible but a good display of energy efficiency under circumstances. Used more than one headjam rest.
with Tony Seale
While recovering from virus having eaten v little in 48hs previous. Not v sensible but a good display of energy efficiency under circumstances. Used more than one headjam rest.
with Tony Seale
Hidden 4 May, 2007 Lead
bpmclimb 24 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S In one pitch. Got quite pumped on the crux - too much faffing with gear again I expect. Great climb though.
In one pitch. Got quite pumped on the crux - too much faffing with gear again I expect. Great climb though.
Huntlyfiddler 24 Mar, 2007 2nd
Bristoldave 11 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
with Jon Hauser
with Jon Hauser
Tom Heslam ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Ed Heslam
with Ed Heslam
Richard Hall ??, 2007 - A coupole of times i think, not sure on dates
A coupole of times i think, not sure on dates
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2007 Lead O/S
tonanf ?Aug, 2006 AltLd
with burt
with burt
The Reaper 20 Jul, 2006 2nd O/S
Boxy 9 Jul, 2006 Lead rpt
gonggashan ?Jul, 2006 2nd
with Dan Perrott
with Dan Perrott
JasonG ?Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with Barry Donovan
with Barry Donovan
MikeC59 ?Jul, 2006 Lead
just one more 30 Jun, 2006 Lead
with john smith, Svenn G
with john smith, Svenn G
tom.e 24 May, 2006 2nd rpt
with Matt Gordon
with Matt Gordon
jon thompson27 5 May, 2006 Lead Birthday climb! Had to be done with Greg in awe of two giants in the Avon climbing scene...not! Still worthy of the 3***
with simon mayell
Birthday climb! Had to be done with Greg in awe of two giants in the Avon climbing scene...not! Still worthy of the 3***
with simon mayell
Lev 4 May, 2006 Lead O/S
with Emma
with Emma
Hidden 4 May, 2006 2nd O/S
tom.e 24 Apr, 2006 2nd rpt
with Charlie Everett
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 8 Apr, 2006 2nd rpt
IceMonkey1982 ??, 2006 -
gimmer ??, 2006 -
John Lisle ??, 2006 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
sdi ??, 2006 2nd O/S
with tomski3
with tomski3
Hidden ??, 2006 -
beardy mike ??, 2006 Lead dog
kyt341k ?Sep, 2005 2nd dog
with Ben Freidland
with Ben Freidland
Hidden ?Jul, 2005 Lead rpt
Bux ?Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
with Rupert Bassadone
with Rupert Bassadone
Andrew Barker ?Jun, 2005 Lead O/S Month a guess.
with Matt Booth
Month a guess.
with Matt Booth
Hidden ?Jun, 2005 Lead dog
Fat Tim 22 May, 2005 Lead rpt
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead O/S
danp ??, 2005 Lead O/S
tom.e ??, 2005 Lead RP
Mark Davies PK ?Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
with David Elder
with David Elder
Mark Stevenson 19 May, 2004 Lead O/S
James Jackson 19 May, 2004 2nd
furry 12 May, 2004 Lead O/S
with Neil
with Neil
Hidden 2 May, 2004 Lead
Hidden ?May, 2004 AltLd O/S
richgac 15 Apr, 2004 AltLd O/S Lead p2
with Nick
Lead p2
with Nick
Hidden 13 Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
Boxy 21 Feb, 2004 Lead rpt
just one more 20 Sep, 2003 Lead
with Max B
with Max B
just one more 8 Jul, 2003 Lead
with rich h, Svenn G
with rich h, Svenn G
MikeC59 27 Jun, 2003 2nd
Hidden 25 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Feb, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Feb, 2003 Lead
Hidden ??, 2003 -
Paz ??, 2003 Lead
KRB 5 May, 2002 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
with Chris & Martin
greedo ??, 2002 Lead O/S
with Matt goater
with Matt goater
Paz ?Jul, 2001 2nd β
Hidden 5 Jun, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 May, 2001 Lead O/S
Roget 5 May, 2001 Lead O/S
with baccy
with baccy
cornishben ?Jan, 2001 AltLd O/S
with Jack
with Jack
Stone Muppet ??, 2001 -
alan moore ??, 2000 - Horrible and pumpy.
Horrible and pumpy.
JimR ??, 2000 -
Ally Smith ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
crimpaway ??, 1999 Lead
AndySL 6 Aug, 1998 AltLd rpt Lead the first pitch. I'd previously done alt leads the other way round.
with Mark
Lead the first pitch. I'd previously done alt leads the other way round.
with Mark
lowersharpnose 1 Jan, 1998 Lead
Hidden ??, 1998 2nd
Hidden ??, 1998 Lead
migs493 4 Oct, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Steve Blake
with Steve Blake
Gordon Stainforth 28 Apr, 1995 2nd
with Steve Dean, Kym Martindale
with Steve Dean, Kym Martindale
colin milton 23 Apr, 1995 Lead spent all winter dreaming of getting up this. Went quite easy.
with eric milton
spent all winter dreaming of getting up this. Went quite easy.
with eric milton
lowersharpnose 1 Jan, 1995 Lead
Hidden ??, 1995 -
colin milton 30 Jul, 1994 Lead dnf fully tested peg with fall from crux.
with eric milton
fully tested peg with fall from crux.
with eric milton
chris sm 11 Jun, 1994 2nd O/S
with Francis Taylor
with Francis Taylor
jim_randell 7 Jun, 1994 AltLd O/S
with FW
with FW
Dave Turnbull 7 May, 1994 Lead
with Jane Turnbull
with Jane Turnbull
mikej 1 May, 1994 2nd
with Nick Salmon
with Nick Salmon
Hidden ??, 1994 AltLd
OMSKB 9 May, 1993 Lead O/S
with Richard Winfield
with Richard Winfield
steveb2006 20 Mar, 1993 Lead
MikePycroft 20 Mar, 1993 2nd
Budge ??, 1992 Lead O/S
with Brian Ottewell
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden 21 Dec, 1988 2nd
AndyB123 ??, 1988 2nd O/S
with Andy E
with Andy E
adriandesouza ?May, 1987 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
DDDD ??, 1987 -
Eduardo Martinez 12 Oct, 1985 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 1 Oct, 1985 Lead led p1
with Andy Gill
led p1
with Andy Gill
John Marsland 1 Sep, 1985 Lead
with Dave Mould and Tony Rex
with Dave Mould and Tony Rex
JamieAyres ?Jul, 1985 2nd O/S did both pitches and topped out on to bridge
with Peter Rickard
did both pitches and topped out on to bridge
with Peter Rickard
frank ramsay ??, 1985 Lead
with paul colback
with paul colback
pete johnson ??, 1985 -
Nigel Coe 6 Oct, 1984 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
charlesmfrench 7 Apr, 1984 AltLd O/S L,2.
L,2.
Davy Gunn ??, 1984 -
Hidden ??, 1984 AltLd O/S
AlanLittle 30 May, 1983 Lead first E1 lead
with Andy Croft, John Walters
first E1 lead
with Andy Croft, John Walters
tapley 9 Apr, 1983 Lead
Nigel Bond 10 Oct, 1982 2nd
with Charlie Leverton
with Charlie Leverton
duncan ?Aug, 1982 2nd
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
Sully 28 Mar, 1982 AltLd O/S Lead second pitch
with DP
Lead second pitch
with DP
Hidden ??, 1981 -
Steve Bell ??, 1980 -
Hidden 17 Jul, 1979 Lead dog
D Tempest ?Jan, 1977 AltLd
Andy Chubb 1 May, 1976 Lead
with Pete Coghill
with Pete Coghill
Derek Furze ??, 1976 Lead
with Leigh Harrison
with Leigh Harrison
Derek Furze ??, 1976 Lead
with Leigh Harrison
with Leigh Harrison
Marcus 7 Dec, 1975 -
with Roger Stokes
with Roger Stokes
Steve Woollard ??, 1974 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 115
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 108
Votes cast 113
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set