Rockfax Description
Immaculate and intricate face climbing up the pockets and grey wall left of the steep black bulges in the middle of the wall. Start on a ledge at the base of the wall beneath the black bulges.
1) 5b, 33m. Climb the left-hand-crack-system to ledges below the black bulges. Move left to the pocket line and climb up past a thread to a peg on the left wall. Make technical moves left, up and back right to the pocket line and continue to a horizontal break. Climb up right to a stance below a corner.
2) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © Rockfax

Ed Drummond 1966

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Bristol 1st E1s, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff).

dprib123 16/Nov/17 2nd dog

Struggled going from pockets.

with andy
Andrew Sloan 16/Nov/17 Lead rpt

The crux move up to the peg is pretty stiff 5b, only just managed it clean. Finished left as per new guide book.

with David p
Hidden 24/Oct/17 AltLd
GHawksworth 26/Sep/17 Lead O/S

First E1 onsight! such an awesome route too! pumpy and quite technical but with great gear where you need it.

Jim blackford 02/Sep/17 Lead O/S

First e1. Felt pretty steady but commiting. Its possible to lace this with threads.

Charlie Low 12/Aug/17 2nd rpt
Dale Comley 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Gibbo 25/Jul/17 2nd
with Matt Ward
Aaron Lines 20/Jul/17 2nd rpt
aiyer 06/Jul/17 2nd


with Harry
badgerjockey 06/Jul/17 Lead O/S

A beautiful climb. Slight polish only adds to the character. Intricate and varied and always solid rock. Lovely sunshine and a verdant belay covered in spiked speedwell, centaureas and marjoram!

with aiyer
alexm198 05/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Matt Harle 05/Jul/17 Lead O/S
andy dunn 03/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with J
tomhull 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Ellis Bird 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/17 2nd
DHHZ 15/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Louis P
Larey 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Megan
Megan.richardson1 11/Jun/17 2nd
with Larey
Rob Morgan 25/May/17 Lead dog

With 3 rests. Great climb though, will have to come back. First attempt at a gorge E1.

danieleaston 25/May/17 2nd rpt

Clean on second

Longsufferingropeholder 24/May/17 Lead O/S

Romped up this in fading light. Felt rather easy. I went out on to the face past the peg but did I come back to the crozzly groove too soon??

with Ed
aiyer 22/May/17 2nd

Think its time to lead this next...

with Wendy
Wendy Watthews 22/May/17 Lead rpt

The left hand finish is better then the one I'd climbed previously. Nice sunny post work climb.

with Abby
bryp153 13/May/17 2nd


Hidden 10/May/17 2nd
Abi Chard 28/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Ian
skippington 06/Apr/17 Lead rpt

One pitch, but traversed left to belay at the top of Suspension Bridge Arete instead of doing the grassy corner.

Hidden 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S
David Staples 02/Apr/17 2nd
fuzzysheep01 01/Apr/17 Lead O/S

In one long and superb pitch.

eduardo 01/Apr/17 2nd O/S


Angrypenguin 25/Mar/17 Lead RP

Really enjoyable.

with Dan Akam
Nathan Chrismas 10/Mar/17 2nd rpt

Didn't feel any easier than last time, but steady. Only thing stopping me leading it is my head. Best get to work on that.

with Timms
riff156 19/Feb/17 2nd dog

Had to rest on rope as I couldn't feel my fingers, not good when doing a fingery and crimpy route

Chris Sansum 19/Feb/17 Lead dog

Cheated at the crux - made an etrier out of a sling to get past the move! A bit chilly today, but great fun. Will have to come back and do it clean!

with Steve Collard
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
cwildblood ??/2017 Lead O/S
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
bryan61 13/Nov/16 AltLd rpt
with m meaney
RagingPuffin 09/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Nicki, Tom
danieleaston 04/Oct/16 Lead dog

rested on a thread before the crux. Led on from there. Terrible rope work. Very sustained climbing. Aim to lead this clean next year!

with Steve
Steve Bartle 04/Oct/16 2nd

Fell off at the traverse bit. ..rushed it with my 'seconding head' on. Felt generally sustained and pumpy.

Hidden 17/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Doug miller 08/Sep/16 2nd
cwildblood 08/Sep/16 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 18/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Gingerlings 16/Aug/16 2nd
afrosam 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with DaveX
DaveX 16/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Afrosam
RagingPuffin 16/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Kate
Wendy 29/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Dean Russell
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/16 2nd
mossrug 14/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Trisha
Trisha Murphy 14/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 10/Jul/16 Lead
Jacobclare 06/Jul/16 2nd
Pohil 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with SP
ian d f 03/Jul/16 Lead rpt
pearson9596 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S
SimonWooden 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Mark Lewis
julesmckim 28/May/16 2nd O/S

The middle section is fantastic with a great selection of interesting and positive holds.

with Rob Smart
Wendy Watthews 08/May/16 2nd O/S

Good lead by Joe in a single pitch, we were both a bit worse for wear after gourmans party but brilliant to be climbing in the sun

with joe c
JoeCoxson 08/May/16 Lead O/S

Lead in one pitch, pretty knackered and slow by the top, but I'll blame that on the hangover. Perfect evening for a climb.

steve_gibbs 07/May/16 Lead rpt
with Dan Akam, John Harris
Gibbo 05/May/16 2nd
with James Thompson, Ed Wright
spragglerocks 24/Apr/16 AltLd

Led p2

Hidden 24/Apr/16 AltLd
Lumbering Oaf 24/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Awkward traverse. Great route.

with Rach Spraggs, John
ali.scott 12/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Tom N, WillAndrew
WillAndrew 12/Apr/16 Lead O/S

First proper (non fairy-cave) E1 onsight!

with Tom N, Ali
bpmclimb 31/Mar/16 2nd rpt
with Sarah Jane
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead
Ollie B 28/Feb/16 Lead rpt

Seconded previously. Viciously cold.

with B.Brewer
Angrypenguin 11/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. A delicate section of pockets and sidepulls halfway up the first pitch.

catty_9 11/Feb/16 2nd O/S

Massive Jelly legs on the section moving left but just about managed to hang on

Hidden 11/Feb/16 AltLd rpt
Peter Durin ??/2016 Lead O/S
G Weatherley 29/Dec/15 AltLd

Led second pitch. Very technical first pitch - enjoyable.

with Richard Ive
EC 22/Nov/15 2nd
with Thom
Hidden 22/Nov/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow 31/Oct/15 2nd
with Ned
nniff 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/15 2nd O/S
mark schramm 25/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Jamie
Dave Rumney 14/Oct/15 Lead

most enjoyable

Flavio 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
ad111 30/Sep/15 Lead O/S
tomwright1509 23/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Tim_C7 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Luke Williams
GraMc 13/Sep/15 Solo rpt

mid run fun

GraMc 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with steve gibbs
Hidden 08/Sep/15 2nd dog
steve_gibbs 08/Sep/15 2nd rpt
with Graham McGrath
David Maddison 08/Sep/15 Lead dog
ChrisWills 06/Sep/15 2nd

A bit tricky in the middle - great exposure

jsmcfarland 27/Aug/15 2nd rpt

Seconded Tim who made the crux look pretty easy! Great route. Seems easier and more natural to put in a good directional and traverse across to suspense belay than do another pitch up to the main ab point in the middle of the crag

with Tim
tim.fairhall 27/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Sachi
Hidden 22/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 22/Aug/15 2nd O/S
jsmcfarland 11/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb with good gear and very technical moves. Absolutely loved it! Crux seems hard no matter what way you do it, that 2 finger pocket is grim. It seems better to just climb up and left to the belay of Suspense etc with some directional runners rather than do the top pitch (I still haven't figured out where that is!?)

steve phillips 02/Aug/15 2nd

fab climbing

with evhall
evhall 02/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Fantastic route - lots of thread opportunities so take plenty of slings

with Steve P
David Clover ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 31/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Pauline Picchio
Nathan Chrismas 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Kept me thinking all the way, excellent.

with Lucas F
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
SiyP 04/Jul/15 2nd dog
steve_gibbs 04/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Simon Peacock
martinlevya82 20/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 19/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with martin Levy
LJKing 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Great climb.

with Paul Clarkson
9fingerjon 11/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Neil
Neil McA 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Morgan
Allan Watson 08/Jun/15 2nd

Quality route.

with Tim Larrad
Hidden 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
gingerbex 04/Jun/15 2nd

crux move I found hard. Didn't do the v vegetated 2nd pitch, abbed from the station at top of suspense

Legs 04/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Repeat ascent after seconding Steve up it last month. Fantastic climbing all the way up. A well protected crux which requires decisive moves as it has some steepness to it. Finished up left as the second pitch looks like it will detract from the fantastic first pitch.

steve_gibbs 04/Jun/15 2nd rpt
emdawes 04/Jun/15 Lead β
with Paul southgate, alex shaw
Hidden 22/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/15 Lead O/S
my 11/May/15 2nd
with Mike H
Hidden 11/May/15 Lead O/S
Richardlake 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Best route I've done in the gorge so far. Great holds (very positive for avon) and really well protected. The crux is ace, and there is a good rest after it. Take plenty of slings to thread round the weird calcite formations.

will_lake 10/May/15 2nd O/S
Hugobristol 04/May/15 Lead O/S
with Dave
Dino Dave 04/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
RichyBOYY 16/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Amazing climb - pretty pumpy too,went direct through the pockets (apparently harder) because stepping out to the face seemed bold but i might have been trying to step out at the wrong point? - i reckon its pretty hard and sustained at E1. Did as one long pitch to the belay on the left.

with David Clover
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 16/Apr/15 Lead rpt
youwillfindjimbo 12/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 01/Mar/15 2nd rpt
with Neil
Hidden 04/Feb/15 Lead RP
duncanedgley 04/Feb/15 2nd
with Thom
George Frisby 25/Jan/15 2nd dog
steve_gibbs 25/Jan/15 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2015 -
loic.menzies ??/2015 Lead O/S

Might have been 2014?

with James Hadley, Elsa hadley
Tom Pillow ??/2015 Lead

second E1, nice and technical but still really tiring. Good climb!

with David Pillow
Hidden 30/Nov/14 Lead dog
gingernick 29/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Really good.

with Dean Jones
Eagertom ?/Nov/14 AltLd dog

Rested on second during first pitch due to nerves, but pulled all the moves. Stupendous finish and awesome hanging belay.

with Thom Jenkinson
LucasHarazin 02/Oct/14 Lead rpt

I seconded it couple months earlier

with Jess Broadhurst
Graham Westbrook 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 16/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Max L
Max Lowry 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Thought was an interesting climb :D, was told by belayer i just met " i have never seen anyone use as little gear as you...and did you miss the peg and hero wire....?" :D was fun route :D

tobydunford 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
mattkemp70 ?/Sep/14 2nd
with Westy
Tom Brierley Gore 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Very pleasant :)

felixizzy 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Had alot of fun trying to get a larks foot on the studding.

with Bernard
davidclare 07/Aug/14 2nd O/S
jon_ridley 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
CatMc ?/Aug/14 2nd
with clams
clams ?/Aug/14 Lead
Dan0Me 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Geoff P
Adam Hill 17/Jul/14 -
Hidden 10/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 06/Jul/14 2nd rpt
andy dunn 23/Jun/14 2nd
with J
andy dunn 18/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with J
Annabel Tall 18/Jun/14 2nd

hauled up bits would be a better description than climbed!

danJBA 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Avon Man ?/Jun/14 Solo rpt
mattprince 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd Pitch.

just one more 04/May/14 Lead
joedoherty 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
danmullett 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Slick 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S

First Gorge E1. Abseiled off in the dark!

with Kevin Vans-Colina
Misha 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Last route of the day - literally! Helen took a little while to battle to the top and by the time Phil an dI set off to second it must have been after 8pm. Got down from the ab just before 9pm, walked out in the gathering gloom but just about managed not to have to use a head torch! A great route - the pockets look like the kind of stuff in photos from somewhere in Spain and the crux section is superb if polished. Helen finished to the left at the Suspense belay, which added some 5a moves to traverse across. Also seconded Helen up Suspense and Phil up the Earl of Perth.

with Helen, Phil
philhilo 13/Apr/14 2nd rpt

Done in the dark for the second time!

Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Stuart William 11/Apr/14 2nd β
with Ben D
Cheese Monkey 11/Apr/14 Lead β

Excellent! Glad to get round to leading this one. Took a while to commit to crux but nailed it eventually

with Stuart I
James Smith 08/Apr/14 2nd
with tom p
Hidden 08/Apr/14 Lead O/S
adam 24 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Finished at the rock anchor on top of suspense so may not be the true line. Very enjoyable though.

riddle 05/Apr/14 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 02/Apr/14 Lead rpt

First clean lead of the route, what a fantastic climb!

with Mark Van Rossum
Tony Holdsworth 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S

An excellent route - bold lead though.

with Martin Haworth
Martin Haworth 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Tony
Mackinclimb 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Neil ??/2014 Lead
Hidden 09/Dec/13 2nd dnf
pheotleyr 09/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Quite possibly the best climb I've done at Avon. I wouldn't say it's soft for E1, but it's definitely not hard for E1. The line of pockets and the traverses are both stunning. Didn't bother with the crappy looking easy second pitch, climbed straight up then left to the Arete belay. Where's the peg mentioned in the guidebook btw? Didn't find it.

with Mike
Dean Russell 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/13 Lead O/S
kenneM 13/Nov/13 2nd
with Mike Dudley
squicky 19/Oct/13 2nd dog

Two large blocks came off in my hand on the easy bit before the ramp resulting in a fall.

with John
Alex Winter 07/Oct/13 2nd rpt

Pleasure, as always.

with Alex
alexjz 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/13 Lead
leigh 05/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Middle section where you move left out of the pocket line is really enjoyable. Kev did it all in one pitch. Top a bit overgrown.

with Kev
steve-grigg 02/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Fantastic route, possibly best ever. Most pumped I have been on a trad route, felt so good to get clean! Ran it as 1 pitch, shame there isn't a lower off at the top of the 1st pitch as the second is pointless

machine45 02/Sep/13 2nd dog

First trad climb I have done in the UK. Great fun.

with Steve Grigg
Webster 02/Sep/13 2nd

awesome main pitch, sustained and keeps on giving. top pitch is crap, would be worth 3 stars otherwise

Andrew Sloan 31/Aug/13 Lead dog

I just managed the tough crux move up to the peg before having to take a short rest. Higher up I lost my bearings and ended up at the left hand ab point. Really nice route but a shame about the poor quality upper pitch.

andy dunn 13/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with J
zcsharp 26/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Got around to leading it, as good as i remembered.

steve_gibbs 26/Jul/13 2nd O/S
james.slater 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic route! Well protected and sustained. The technical face section is very cool!

Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Gibbo 06/Jul/13 Lead dnf
with Ollie Keynes
squicky 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Done as one pitch. Great climb but surprised I made it as I was pumped off my face before I even started. Spent most of the route trying (and failing) to find somewhere to rest and have a cry.

with Neil, Ben
Cheese Monkey 04/Jul/13 2nd O/S

MNOP - 2398

with Iggy, Neil
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd dog
georgeevans88 31/May/13 2nd O/S
aipattison 31/May/13 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 03/May/13 Lead O/S
with George
Hidden 03/May/13 Lead
georgeevans88 03/May/13 2nd O/S
TDSvejstrup 24/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Simon White
Andy Clarke 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Very good, varied climbing. Did as one pitch, then shuffled over to arete belay. Moves to get from pockets onto face needed a bit of oopmh, then traverse was pleasantly technical contrast.

with SGD
SGD 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S

amazing route.

Stanners 02/Mar/13 Lead rpt

as good as the first time I did it!

with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
Quarryboy 02/Mar/13 2nd rpt

Good climbing, seemed a little different to how I remembered it this time although felt very hard as a warm up with frozen hands.

with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Rob Stanfield
richiebongo ??/2013 Lead O/S

Sometime in the naughties.

tskelhon ??/2013 Lead O/S
clmacdonald ??/2013 2nd
jcw ??/2013 -
alastairbegley 08/Dec/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Nov/12 2nd rpt
HarryB 30/Nov/12 Lead rpt

First time on lead

with Will A
Kemics 25/Oct/12 2nd rpt

one long pitch

Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
irishguyinlondon 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Roo took the 5b lead & I had to dog that one but definitely enjoyed it. Very fingery moves. Found the start of the 4b tricky but otherwise an interesting traverse.

with RooFin
zcsharp 12/Sep/12 2nd

Very fun and an excellent climb, i want to lead it soon.

with James S
James Smith 12/Sep/12 Lead O/S

done as one awesome pitch...really cool moves through the pockets and out onto the wall out left.

with jamie
tommytuffa 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Top pitch heavily vegitated

with Libby
alastairbegley 03/Sep/12 Lead dog

Sat on gear at the crux, great climb

mattshort 02/Sep/12 2nd
Alan100 02/Sep/12 Lead

Led the whole thing in one pitch - rope drag wasn't too bad either. Great route with a nice delicate crux sequence. I didn't think it was very pumpy - not compared to the Earl anyway..

JamesRich 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Got to be one of my favourite routes I've climbed so far. Pleased with how smoothly it went especially as I hadn't warmed up beforehand.

Stanners 09/Aug/12 2nd rpt

Solid stuff from James, great effort!

with James Rich
Edvenables ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S

First E1 and 4th lead. Led in one pitch, went up right the wrong way, ended up in a vegetated groove finishing at some massive stake at a full rope length. Very scary, felt my balls grow as I powered through the crux traverse. Very pumped on polished crimps so couldn't stop to put gear in and ended up risking massive fall. Solid climb.

Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 17/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with DeDe
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd
Billg 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Kemics 09/Jun/12 AltLd rpt

Lead second pitch.

with Anthony
Anthony Dixon 09/Jun/12 Lead
evilweed 29/May/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Prince, Dan
Hidden 26/May/12 AltLd
richsmithinbristol 20/May/12 2nd
shoulders 20/May/12 Lead O/S
hutchay 19/May/12 AltLd O/S

Lead the first long pitch, 2nd on the second pitch.

pffft 19/May/12 2nd O/S

First E1 :-) Lovely climb, loved it. Found a bit pumpy, but manageable.

with Monkey
Monk 19/May/12 Lead O/S

I really enjoyed this. Really nice moves, although quite pumpy (mostly due to faffing with gear on the steep section). Excellent gear.

with Luke Vincent
Nick Russell 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Excellent and sustained

with Jason
Didymus 11/May/12 Lead RP

Ground up 3rd go, found it hard for the grade.

with Nick
gb05 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Mackinclimb 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Kemics 25/Mar/12 Lead

Ground up. Blew the on-sight due to crappy rope work and a hangover. Mid crux decided to back up the peg, bomber camalot 1 above the peg, clipped under rather than over the double rope causing horrendous rope drag, tried to reverse the crux, got pumped and slumped onto the gear. Swore. Lowered, pulled ropes and climbed clean.

katherinesydney 24/Mar/12 AltLd rpt

Climbed this with totally different, and better, moves than last time. Tasty crux sequence. Led P2.

LJC 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Harry
HarryB 10/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Luca
Hidden 25/Feb/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with steve read
Kevster 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
beardy mike ??/2012 -
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
Clay C 18/Nov/11 2nd rpt
with Will A
Hidden 18/Nov/11 Lead O/S
cbeard 17/Nov/11 2nd

Combined with Baby Duck. Fell on traverse as handhold broke off!

HarryB 15/Nov/11 2nd dog

in the dark, no chalk and got flash pumped, pulled on the peg

with Al
Ali D 15/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Harry B
evhall 13/Nov/11 Lead dog

managed to peel off the crux - no harm done - just need not to panic! Lovely climb

with Fletch
AlistairB 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
LisaA 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
ashley_sandeman 20/Aug/11 2nd β

Me and The Norfolk Machine rocked up for another crack at Limbo with TNM ready to push E1 lead and show a little less disco leg. To be fair he stormed it, and we took the traverse route at the top of the first pitch to join Suspense and head for the abseil plate as we were climbing on a single 60m rope, and the rockfax P2 4b would have left us too high. For the follow it was a decent pumpy climb with an excellent crux that's solved with a small left hand side pull. It's difficult to see when you're below the thin ledge when you head out left above the first peg, but you can stretch out to find it. From there you can take your feet left also and almost layback to reach above to a good hold allowing you to gain feet upwards. Easier to do on a second. It would have felt bold on lead, and TNM uused his monkey-like skills to get up without ever finding it. An excellent rest awaits with ambple knee-bar in the small cave to shake out, and then power on.

with Richard Miles
mick1jones 05/Aug/11 2nd dog

Led first and struggled then seconded, got pumped and messed up crux sequence

with Rich Rogers
Dave Mahon ?/Aug/11 Lead dog

My first E1 lead. Got pumped and took a whipper off the crux wall. This added some excitement to the experience!

with Brian Mead
Stanners 24/Jul/11 2nd rpt

As good fun as last time. Did as one pitch doing a variation, finishing at the belay plate of suspension bridge arete.

Quarryboy 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Amazingly good climbing! Lots of people think its really pumpy but I reckon as long as you don't dick around placing gear on the steep sections for like half an hour its fine.

Stanley 19/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

I led the second much easier pitch, nothing in comparisson to the first, but a very nice climb.

Stanners 19/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Really enjoyable climbing! Rained as I started belaying martin up first pitch though which made the 2nd pitch not very pleasent. Well volunteered mart to lead in the wet.

with Martin Stanfield
Ed Babs 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/11 2nd β
Kirill 02/May/11 Lead dog

4 rests on the rope including 2 lead falls.

cem 02/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/11 2nd
CrispsSmiths 02/May/11 2nd
with Kirill
stvredmond 30/Apr/11 Lead

loved the pocket pulling and got steep quickly. worthy of its 3 stars

Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd
crossdressingrodney 24/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Tomar
Tomar 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Took it direct following the pockets all the way. Best route of the suspension so far.

Clay C 23/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Louise
just one more 20/Mar/11 Lead
with tony l, Svenn G
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S
AlexRenshaw 13/Mar/11 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Clay C 02/Mar/11 2nd β
with Ross
Hidden 02/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Clay C 17/Feb/11 Lead dnf

Hung around for too long by the peg and got really pumped. Ended up lowering off a sling clove hitched round the small metal stake above the peg.

with Jimmy
bpmclimb 08/Feb/11 Lead rpt

Very cold rock. Numb fingers, so downclimbed from traverse to ledge to warm them up, then it went OK.

with Helen S
Hidden 08/Feb/11 2nd β
LouiseP ?/Feb/11 2nd dog
with Clay
alasdair19 ??/2011 -

with mich

Jonnie Watkins ??/2011 -
_m.cox_ ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Jason Williams
Chris Sansum 24/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Richard Lade
Paul_southgate68 13/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with alex harper
tommoulds 10/Oct/10 2nd β
with Schramm
mark schramm 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with tom m
TDembrey 04/Oct/10 Lead dnf
with Clay
LisaA 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Matt Fry 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S

nice climbing up the pocketed groove.

bigdrew 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
katherinesydney 11/Sep/10 2nd dog

strenuous crux, but some great standupandslap moves... at least, the way i did it, anyway... sense of drama heightened by the splat of a jumper, followed by sirens and epic recovery operation. not nice.

with gary burgess
Hidden 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Sgt. Vest 11/Sep/10 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 07/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Becca
BeccaSnowden 07/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Spent ages commiting to the traverse, which felt hard 5b when I did it. Fab route!

with Tom
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/10 Lead β
Chris Sansum 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Gary P1, Chris P2 Guide book doesn't make it clear that if you take the option of belaying on the left, you aren't in the right position to start P2. After ending up there, we ended up down-climbing to the start of P2, setting up a second belay, then doing P2. Wished we hadn't bothered as P2 was very poor quality compared to P1.

with Gary Lewin
andy dunn 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with J
Si dH 20/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Direct version. Couple of quite hard pulls.

with Andy Morris
AJM 20/Jun/10 Lead

Had fallen off the indirect version about 3 years back. . Avoided the little diversion this time - some tough moves going straight up. Great day, if very hot!

lizzie789 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
RagingPuffin 12/Jun/10 Lead rpt
fishinwater 18/May/10 2nd
with Barry
Dale ?/May/10 Lead O/S

another brill route on sunspension like being back in Kalymnos with those pockets.

with johny
ericinbristol 16/Apr/10 2nd β

Did a direct version that is about E2 5c.

with Barry Durston
shyster boulder 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S

probably the nicest e1 in avon.

with alex harper
Hidden 28/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/10 Lead β
Hidden 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Aaron Lines ??/2010 Lead O/S
with frank
fragglerock 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Cad Led through in one clean pitch to the belay point (following the pocketed groove throughout). I seconded the climb cleanly before scrambling out to the top of the butress.

with Caedmon Mullin
Chubbard 04/Oct/09 2nd rpt
with Derek, J Robinson
markfromstoke 20/Sep/09 2nd
with Ian
ian d f 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mark
scorpia97 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

have seconded before, but as I couldn't even remember where the route started and went, let alone the moves, it was more similar to onsight. Managed to get lost and cut left to early and went up new beginnings for a bit. was far too hot, sweated too much. but nice climb.

with Paul
Jessie Rushbrooke 13/Sep/09 Lead β
with GF
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead dog
Quirina 12/Sep/09 2nd dog

Hanging off one finger trying to get a nut nr. 6 out was a bit time and energy consuming.

ruaidh 05/Sep/09 2nd

Strenuous move out of the scoop. Must stop climbing with a hangover.

with Baz
Hidden 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/09 2nd dog
Dan_Carroll 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Eric Herring
Greg Pittam ?/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Livi
needlefluff ?/Jun/09 2nd
Danos 30/May/09 Lead O/S

Was rather underwhelmed by it - too much vegetation but a reasonable route

with Andras
DorsetGareth 12/May/09 2nd O/S

Would have found this a spooky lead, traversing right beneath the groove.

cornishben 12/May/09 2nd rpt
with Tim Riley
Hidden 03/May/09 2nd O/S
just one more 03/May/09 Lead
with Max B
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
lukehodson 19/Nov/08 Lead O/S

best route of its grade in the gorge?

with Howard
just one more 19/Oct/08 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
scorpia97 14/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 14/Sep/08 2nd
Andrew1 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Rachel Smith
Luke Marsden ?/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Keith Marsden
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 12/Jun/08 2nd rpt

Direct. Good and hard!

with Will
Greg Pittam 12/May/08 2nd β

Best climb i've done in the Gorge, Can't wait to lead it!

with Sam Howel
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 02/May/08 Lead O/S

Pumped right out hanging around on the crux, need to learn to move quicker!

with Maria
Feeling bold 02/May/08 2nd dog

The pocket bit was well hard and pumpy, I had to rest on rope.

Hidden 27/Apr/08 Lead O/S
CarolineH 16/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 2 (4b) - full of tree and lots of snail, not worth it - took the shine off the route (first pitch brilliant.) Recommend going left to abseil bolt rather than doing the 2nd pitch (both alternatives described in book).

with Joe
James Marshall 02/Apr/08 2nd
schwenk ?/Apr/08 TR
Will Homoky 29/Mar/08 2nd
with Tom Hindson
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden 25/Nov/07 2nd
RagingPuffin 25/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Kett
Al Franks 25/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Kett
georgeevans88 25/Nov/07 Lead
with Pete
chris sm 10/Nov/07 2nd
with Julie Osborn
Dr Caterpillar 27/Oct/07 2nd O/S


with Adam
Circus 27/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Direct. Nice.

with Loz
Hidden 24/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/07 Lead O/S
pelvoux 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Mario
pezzerrr 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
simonf 07/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Chris
John Southworth ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Snell
just one more 18/May/07 Lead
with rich h
Owen W-G 05/May/07 Lead O/S

While recovering from virus having eaten v little in 48hs previous. Not v sensible but a good display of energy efficiency under circumstances. Used more than one headjam rest.

with Tony Seale
Hidden 04/May/07 Lead
bpmclimb 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S

In one pitch. Got quite pumped on the crux - too much faffing with gear again I expect. Great climb though.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 24/Mar/07 2nd
Bristoldave 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Jon Hauser
Richard Hall ??/2007 -

A coupole of times i think, not sure on dates

Bullybones ??/2007 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Aug/06 AltLd
with burt
The Reaper 20/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Boxy 09/Jul/06 Lead rpt
gonggashan ?/Jul/06 2nd
with Dan Perrott
JasonG ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Barry Donovan
MikeC59 ?/Jul/06 Lead
just one more 30/Jun/06 Lead
with john smith, Svenn G
tom.e 24/May/06 2nd rpt
with Matt Gordon
jon thompson27 05/May/06 Lead

Birthday climb! Had to be done with Greg in awe of two giants in the Avon climbing scene...not! Still worthy of the 3***

with simon mayell
Lev 04/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/06 2nd O/S
tom.e 24/Apr/06 2nd rpt
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 08/Apr/06 2nd rpt
IceMonkey1982 ??/2006 -
gimmer ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
sdi ??/2006 2nd O/S
with Tom K
Hidden ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead dog
kyt341k ?/Sep/05 2nd dog
with Ben Freidland
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead rpt
Bux ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Rupert Bassadone
Andrew Barker ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S

Month a guess.

with Matt Booth
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead dog
Fat Tim 22/May/05 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
danp ??/2005 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2005 Lead RP
Mark Davies PK ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with David Elder
Mark Stevenson 19/May/04 Lead O/S
James Jackson 19/May/04 2nd
furry 12/May/04 Lead O/S
with Neil
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Boxy 21/Feb/04 Lead rpt
just one more 20/Sep/03 Lead
with Max B
just one more 08/Jul/03 Lead
with rich h, Svenn G
MikeC59 27/Jun/03 2nd
Hidden 25/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Feb/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
Paz ??/2003 Lead
KRB 05/May/02 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
greedo ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Matt goater
Paz ?/Jul/01 2nd β
with CC
Hidden 05/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/01 Lead O/S
Roget 05/May/01 Lead O/S
with baccy
cornishben ?/Jan/01 AltLd O/S
with Jack
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
alan moore ??/2000 -

Horrible and pumpy.

Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
crimpaway ??/1999 Lead
AndySL 06/Aug/98 AltLd rpt

Lead the first pitch. I'd previously done alt leads the other way round.

with Mark
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/98 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
migs493 04/Oct/97 AltLd O/S
with Steve Blake
Gordon Stainforth 28/Apr/95 2nd
with Steve Dean, Kym Martindale
colin milton 23/Apr/95 Lead

spent all winter dreaming of getting up this. Went quite easy.

with eric milton
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 -
colin milton 30/Jul/94 Lead dnf

fully tested peg with fall from crux.

with eric milton
chris sm 11/Jun/94 2nd O/S
with Francis Taylor
jim_randell 07/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
with FW
Dave Turnbull 07/May/94 Lead
with Jane Turnbull
mikej 01/May/94 2nd
with Nick Salmon
Hidden ??/1994 AltLd
OMSKB 09/May/93 Lead O/S
with Richard Winfield
Hidden 20/Mar/93 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/93 2nd
Budge ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden 21/Dec/88 2nd
AndyB123 ??/1988 2nd O/S
with Andy E
adriandesouza ?/May/87 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily
DDDD ??/1987 -
Eduardo Martinez 12/Oct/85 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 01/Oct/85 Lead

led p1

with Andy Gill
John Marsland 01/Sep/85 Lead
with Dave Mould and Tony Rex
JamieAyres ?/Jul/85 2nd O/S

did both pitches and topped out on to bridge

with Peter Rickard
frank ramsay ??/1985 Lead
with paul colback
Nigel Coe 06/Oct/84 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
charlesmfrench 07/Apr/84 AltLd O/S


Hidden ??/1984 AltLd O/S
AlanLittle 30/May/83 Lead

first E1 lead

with Andy Croft, John Walters
tapley 09/Apr/83 Lead
Nigel Bond 10/Oct/82 2nd
with Charlie Leverton
duncan ?/Aug/82 2nd
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
Paul Clarke ??/1981 -
Steve Bell ??/1980 -
Hidden 17/Jul/79 Lead dog
D Tempest ?/Jan/77 AltLd
Andy Chubb 01/May/76 Lead
with Pete Coghill
Derek Furze ??/1976 Lead
with Leigh Harrison
Derek Furze ??/1976 Lead
with Leigh Harrison
Marcus 07/Dec/75 -
with Roger Stokes
Steve Woollard ??/1974 Lead O/S
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 112
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 105
Votes cast 107
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set