Rockfax Description
The fine arete is one of the best on the sandstone. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The obvious arete now bolted gives some good climbing. You can now lower off at the top of the arete or continue as before to the lower off of Greased Balls

julesmckim 03/Nov/17 Lead RP

The best looking line here. Great balancy climbing throughout with a powerful crux. Felt like probably several ways to get past the crux bulge but all of them hard. Used layaway and an expanding flake crimp that's not going to last forever to get feet really high. Excellent stuff

with Alex Nichols
chrislord 04/Oct/17 Lead dog
dickypips 25/Sep/17 Lead RP


with gav
climb62 25/Sep/17 Lead RP
with rich
Chris Redding 02/Sep/17 Lead RP
with Dan Hann, Jake Harding
chrisscutt 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/17 Lead dog
tobydunford 08/Jul/17 Lead β
with Myles jordan
JJones 03/Jun/17 Lead dog

Tried it perhaps fifteen years ago and as then the arete was completely covered in flying ants which had to be brushed off first. I found it hard to work out on sight, must return with some commitment.

Tom92 21/May/17 Lead RP
Elliott's Pies 13/May/17 Lead dog
with Tomp
Hidden 09/May/17 TR
Hidden 07/May/17 Lead
WillAndrew 06/May/17 Lead RP
with KatePG
ali.scott 29/Apr/17 Lead dog

really nice! too tired to RP, should go next time

Hidden 17/Apr/17 Lead dog
richsmithinbristol 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Amazing! Did it twice, mantle out left and the straight up the arête version.

gman2 17/Apr/17 Lead G/U

Great climb but messed up the crux over the bulge for the onsight. Done it second time round

with paul
pdrums777 17/Apr/17 Lead

Ground up this time!

with Gareth (trev)
richsmithinbristol 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S
phillipwright 17/Apr/17 Lead RP

Blew the onsight because it felt wrong pulling around the arete too far. Second go.

RosieYates 12/Apr/17 Lead RP

Second go after taking time to figure out the crux first go (DG was right). A proper team effort. Nice climbing, definitely worthwhile.

Saurusrock 12/Apr/17 Lead RP

Wasn't quite sure on the crux first go. Went smoothly second time round and loved every bit of it. Danny was a massive help with the beta.

mop449 12/Apr/17 Lead rpt

Put the draws in for a squad ascent. Even more fun than I remembered it.

Alex Wade 09/Apr/17 TR dog
with Paul Barwood, Tim Smith
pdrums777 15/Mar/17 Lead dog

Been a few years but came back a better climber, lead it with a couple of goes at the crux. Clean ground up next time!

with Gareth (trev)
waynekinrade ??/2017 Lead RP
TomJ 23/Oct/16 Lead RP
with afrosam
afrosam 23/Oct/16 Lead RP
with TomJ
Max Lowry 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Josh Lewis 07/Jul/16 Lead RP

Easy when you know how

simo 03/Jun/16 Lead dog
dannygale 03/Jun/16 Lead RP
with Simon
joe1joe1joe2 30/May/16 Lead β

Really nice route. One of my favourites at The Gap.

dom_joyce265 30/May/16 Lead β
chris85 ?/May/16 Lead RP

2nd go, soft

AlexanderWilliams 26/Mar/16 Lead dog

Two rests. Good route!

dclarkson ??/2016 Lead RP
Carl Watkins 10/Oct/15 Lead RP
with jackie, sam
wilchivs 08/Aug/15 Lead dog
yan hawkins ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Emily
Steve Lewis 10/Jun/15 Lead G/U
with Simon Smith
simo 10/Jun/15 Lead RP
with steve L
mop449 27/May/15 Lead β

First 7a flash. Great route but lots of flies all the way up the arete.

GeneralFifi 27/May/15 Lead RP

Good route, interesting and quite powerful crux which took me a while to work out the micro beta. Sent this 4th go after nearly onsighting it. Would deserve a star, if it wasn't infested with a million flies.

Tomas P 19/Mar/15 Lead RP
Robheirene 19/Mar/15 Lead RP

Good crux section going over the bulge - fun route

Carl Watkins 02/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with sam
Carl Watkins 31/Aug/14 Lead dog
ericinbristol 25/Jul/14 Lead RP

Quick TR then sent first try. Quality route. First F7 since my shoulder surgery last September.

Cheese Monkey 25/Jul/14 Lead RP

Brief TR then stuck it first go. Great route

with Eric
Ollie B 22/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Still a flies nest half way up. Classy. Did the trad -way this time. Much much easier.

with B.Brewer
Hidden 21/Jul/14 Lead dnf
08nbrierley 21/Jul/14 Lead RP
with jamie
TomJ 01/Jun/14 Lead dog
with derico
Jim Tan ?/Jun/14 Lead β
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
AJM 26/Aug/13 Lead β

Had watched people but no-one had beta they actually liked - so a sort of antiflash! Winged it somehow, felt pretty onsight :)

with Kate Seaborne, Helen Seaborne
Hidden 22/Aug/13 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead RP
Robheirene 07/Aug/13 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead RP
hankyc 05/Jun/13 Lead RP

3rd attempt, woop!

Huw Mithan 01/Jun/13 TR
with Olivier Goury
FrenchOlly 21/May/13 Lead dog
DaveFidler 18/May/13 Lead O/S

Somewhat epic. Easily the best line in the quarry. Almost barndoored off the lower section but caught myself just in time. Ended up footless mantelling the half height shelf. Awesome.

with Maurice
Hidden 07/May/13 Lead rpt
Ollie B 07/May/13 Lead β

Rob put the clips in from 'Greased Balls'. Ive tried at some point before but never completed and didnt remember any moves.

with Robyn
skippington 04/May/13 Lead RP

Mint. Good line.

Spillers 05/Mar/13 Lead
Paul Robertson 28/Sep/12 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Jul/12 Lead
guy xavier percival 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with paul
tweedcore 25/May/12 Lead RP
with Leo
Garrouli 18/May/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah Jane, Tom, Jak
Tom Heslam 18/May/12 Lead O/S
with Jak, Gary, SJ
Hidden 02/Apr/12 Lead dnf
davesimpson 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with rob turner
Stone Muppet 01/Mar/12 TR dog

Seems a lot harder than last year!

with irish
Dan Jenkin 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead β
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead RP
James Marshall 27/Jul/11 Lead β
karoo88 20/Jul/11 Lead RP

First 7a clean outside! Very nice feeling :-) A very nice arete with a tricky crux move half way up.

stu1981 14/Jul/11 Lead RP
with Ben Mitchell
marcduhig 19/Jun/11 Lead dog
Stone Muppet 15/Jun/11 Lead RP

Harder than I remembered!

with dc
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead
BicepAndrews 02/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Josh Price, Caspian Johnson
Dan_Carroll 02/Jun/11 Lead RP
with caspian
Caspian Johnson 02/Jun/11 Lead rpt

brilliant route

Christian Reynish 24/May/11 Lead RP
with stu
Christian Reynish 18/May/11 Lead dog

not fit enough to get through the crux without getting it spot on, yet..

with stu
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead rpt
Stone Muppet 12/May/11 Lead dog

Messed up one move. Next time :)

with ceri's mate ben
westyb3 02/May/11 Lead O/S

Best route on the crag!!!

with Alan Sarhan
Tomar 01/May/11 Lead RP

Foot slipped off at the crux on the onsight. so close! Got it on 1st RP try. Soft 7a, genius route.

pdrums777 ?/May/11 TR dnf

can't get the move after the first platform in the arete.

with Phil Windley
chopstix ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead RP
_m.cox_ 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
MorganPreece 19/Mar/11 Lead β

Trying to man up to solo this! aint far off!

with Jessy
Climber1806 19/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Morgan Preece
Climber1806 13/Mar/11 Lead dog

went for onsite, fell going for good jugs in middle!

with Max Edwards
Maxim2023 ?/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Mark Bennett
d_meacher 27/May/10 TR dog
with Iskander
Iskander 27/May/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead RP
MorganPreece 09/May/10 Lead rpt

Easy when you have the best beta going!!!

with Monty
rhoslynfrugtniet ?/Apr/10 Lead β
Hidden ??/2010 -
Wil Treasure ?/Sep/09 Lead RP
chris sm 19/Aug/09 Lead RP
Tim M 19/Aug/09 Lead RP
richardr 07/Jul/09 Lead RP

Flashed it apart from one move. Identified the right hold and got it 2nd go.

Hidden 04/Jun/09 Lead RP
dshearer 28/May/09 Lead RP
DafSWMC 26/May/09 Lead β


with Gareth
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead RP
Mikeyped ?/Mar/09 TR dog

One rest

Paz 25/Sep/08 Lead RP

Took a sidepull hold wrong above the bulge (i.e. above the gear) and ballsed up the alternative.

with MT
Paul Bowen 16/Sep/08 Lead RP
with John James
climbergg 26/Jul/08 2nd
Tim M 26/Jul/08 Lead dog

One rest. a bit more energy, skill, inspiration and perseverance and it would have been in the bag...

with Emma
Hidden 15/Jul/08 Lead RP
SamStokes 13/Jul/08 Lead dog

Fell once at the crux but what an awesome climb! It'll go next time!

with Alex Harper
onlytovey 20/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Hannah Williams
Hidden 20/Jun/08 Lead RP
Billg 12/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Andy Cummings
Mark Walter 22/May/08 Lead RP
with Jon Bleiker
Hidden 22/May/08 TR O/S
tweedcore 22/May/08 TR O/S

super nice climb will be back to lead it next time.

with Luis Herraez
Mark Walter 13/Feb/08 TR dog

rope flicked my hand off, close to getting it clean now

with Steve Becwith
irish paul ??/2008 Lead
pete johnson 09/Aug/07 -
with emma alsford, Paul Donnithorne, Lun
gejones 11/Jul/07 Lead RP
with Matt
Hidden 22/May/07 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 05/May/07 Lead RP
with Alice Howe
Hidden ?/Jan/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/07 2nd
Billg ??/2007 Lead O/S
MorganPreece ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/06 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Aug/06 Lead RP
onlytovey ?/Aug/06 Lead dog

awesome route, low in the grade.

shoulders 30/Jul/06 Lead
with ben, PETE J, dai
Hidden 14/Jul/06 Lead RP
liam jay ??/2004 Lead
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High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set