Rockfax Description
A tremendous sport route that features a tough pull over the overhang and is topped off with a technical face crack. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The third full sport route on this section. The obvious crack in the headwall is gained via a tricky move over the roof. 'The' route of the quarry and a strong candidate for best Fr.7a on sandstone. If the bolts are too far apart, feel free to add more at your own expense.

M Crocker, R Thomas 29/Oct/1988

Ticklists: South Wales Sevens, Rockfax South Wales Top 50, 20 For 2018, Becky's ticklist, No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff).

julesmckim 01/Dec/17 Lead rpt

Repeat ascent - was just saying "watch me here..." at the overlap when a foot slipped and I fell bashing my chin - only the "w.." came out. Redpointed second go, heart in mouth. Superbly sustained upper section. How come a slab feels so pumpy?

AlexRenshaw 01/Dec/17 Lead
just one more 05/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Nice moves above the roof, not too pumpy

with vertigo
Hidden 04/Oct/17 TR
embob 12/Sep/17 Lead dog

Couldn't do the move over the roof. Shouldn't have watched how Al climbed it :-) only occurred to me afterwards that a huge leftwards rockover would've worked. Top crack is brill.

with Alex
guy127917 31/Aug/17 Lead RP

Did bolt to bolt then sent first go. Extremely enjoyable route.

with Jen
Bones [:B 31/Aug/17 2nd dog

Got all the moves, just two points that kept me from sending in one. Will do it next time!

Hidden 29/Jul/17 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Jul/17 Lead β
Lizlet13 20/Jul/17 TR

Overlap took a load of goes...finally got it with laybacking off good left hand flake and a high left foot. Lovely top crack :) first time touching a 7a..pretty happy!

with Wayne, PG
julesmckim 05/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Excellent route. With some beta after watching Ali and Joey working it. Quick move over the roof. Steady above with places to pause. Sweaty in the 30 degree heat!

with Alex Nichols
hutchay 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
adamsriches 16/Jun/17 Lead RP

Got second go with draws in

dickypips 28/May/17 Lead RP
with gav
Tim M 21/May/17 Lead RP
with Matt Ward, Phil T
Tom92 20/May/17 Lead RP
Tomar 07/May/17 Lead RP

1st RP. Nice route

with Toby
tobydunford 07/May/17 Lead β
with Tomar
queenmargo 07/May/17 TR dnf
David Clover 07/May/17 Lead O/S
miriamclaire 07/May/17 TR dog
Hidden 19/Apr/17 TR
Dean177 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Poorly bolted at the start, but the rock seemed to be a little more sound than the other climbs here. A good climb, better than the others I had a crack at today

with Mike
RosieYates 12/Apr/17 Lead RP

Tried this twice a couple of days ago, today went first go. Felt great to get this, just bloody nice climbing. Big thanks to the team who belayed/put drawers in.

Saurusrock 10/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Got to the crack section and lost the motivation to get to the top! I'll come back one day!

RosieYates 10/Apr/17 Lead dog

Really cool climb. 2 attempts, on second go took a fall at the roof. Should go next time

with Sam Garland, Beesley, Danny, Jamie S
Hidden 08/Apr/17 Lead dog
mattrm 08/Apr/17 TR dog

Dogged the whole way up.

joe1joe1joe2 07/Apr/17 Lead β

Great fun. The little crack section at the top is nice balancy climbing.

dom_joyce265 07/Apr/17 Lead β

Wicked Route

mop449 07/Apr/17 Lead RP

2nd go. Really fun top section

gman2 05/Apr/17 Lead dog

really nice climbing but fell at the roof. had a short rest then sussed the moves. nice crack climbing on the last 3rd

with paul
pdrums777 05/Apr/17 Lead RP

Powerful. Couple of falls.

with Gareth (trev)
DorsetGareth 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Wise 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Great technical climbing in the top half.

with Gareth
jamie_bkc 22/Jan/17 Lead dog

Great moves to work.

caradogr 21/Jan/17 Lead β
Kyuzo ?/Jan/17 -
waynekinrade ??/2017 Lead RP
chris85 ?/Nov/16 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Jul/16 Lead RP
steveanthony 05/Jul/16 Lead dog
gingernick 05/Jul/16 Lead rpt

One of the best

with Alex Duckett, Steve Marsh
Hidden 21/Jun/16 TR dog
mattrm 10/Jun/16 TR dog

Another bash on this. Harder to get to underneath the overhang than I remember. Then the overhand was a git. With the final crux being totally beyond me. Still a great route and keen to get fit and back on it.

with Giles Davies
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead RP
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead RP
Spillers 24/Apr/16 Lead G/U

Lead clean putting in draws having had one go on it before where I only got to the roof. Chuffed

with Zoe Silsbury
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead RP
chris wyatt 16/Apr/16 Lead RP

What a beautiful route!. Spicy start (only 3 bolts in 10m) followed by two really interesting crux sections .

with ernesto
AlexanderWilliams 10/Apr/16 Lead dog

Fantastic route! Easy climb to outcrop and then high feet over. Good groove climbing to the top. Will go with a second attempt hopefully.

Hidden 01/Apr/16 TR dog
Hidden 01/Apr/16 TR dog
Kevin Woods 18/Mar/16 Lead RP

Nice route. Got it easily once I had the sequence.

Hidden 04/Oct/15 TR RP
RichyBOYY 01/Oct/15 Lead dog

had to take a rest after the crux

with Callum H
Gareth T 06/Sep/15 Lead RP
with Kate Hutchence, James Mcmunn
Kate Hutchence 06/Sep/15 2nd
Gareth T 30/Jul/15 Lead dog

Down to one rest.

with Andrew Pocklington
Gareth T 15/Jul/15 Lead dog
with James Mcmunn, Paul
Gareth T 24/Jun/15 Lead dnf
with James Mcmunn
simo 21/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Pavol
simo 03/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Shane
Hidden 03/Jun/15 Lead dog
steveanthony 28/May/15 Lead RP

Awesome route!

gingernick 28/May/15 Lead rpt

Again brilliant climbing. Well done Mr Marsh :)

Hidden 26/May/15 Lead dog
VPJB 24/May/15 Lead
Didymus 23/May/15 Lead dnf

bad day at the office

with Nick, PaulTclimbing
PaulTclimbing 23/May/15 Lead
with Didymus
Gareth T 22/Apr/15 TR dog
with SWMC
Spillers 07/Apr/15 Lead dog

Up to start of head wall crack. Duff sequence. Fell off. Should go next time

with Nathan Kitcher
Tristan.Stricker 07/Mar/15 Lead dog
Alex Winter 08/Feb/15 Lead RP

Brilliant route. Good moves, good rock, and a good line. Wasn't very far off the onsight, but used a duff sequence on the final crack. Went easily first RP.

with Ben Darby
dmacmorris 08/Feb/15 Lead RP
with Tom
Cheese Monkey 08/Feb/15 Lead dog

Made it up to the crack on 1st go, but too tired to improve 2nd time around

with Alex W
Josh Lewis 07/Feb/15 Lead dnf

Made it through the overlap fine but broke a foothold and got too pumped in the crack section - next time!

simo 07/Feb/15 Lead dog
simo 24/Nov/14 Lead RP
with JoshuaLewis, JT
mattrm 28/Sep/14 TR dnf

The start of the redpoint siege. Holds felt greasy. Quality route however. Couldn't get through the overhang. But the top is even harder, but I just about got through it.

with Joe Gallacher
joe gallacher 27/Sep/14 TR dnf

Practise route

with Matt Moore
Robheirene 12/Sep/14 Lead RP

3rd try. Good climb

Tomas P 03/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Aelita
gingernick 15/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Again brilliant

steveanthony 15/Jul/14 TR dog
Carl Watkins 03/Jul/14 TR RP

lost light to do the red point

with jackie, sam
Paul Robertson 02/Jul/14 Lead rpt
guy xavier percival 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Retro flash. Superb Best 7a on the South Wales sandstone

with paul
Ricky Rocks 18/Jun/14 Lead β

Great route, one of the best I've done on Sandstone..

richiebongo 11/Jun/14 Lead RP

1st redpoint.

with Ra, Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
dannygale 16/May/14 Lead RP
with Simon
Ian Bell 03/May/14 Lead dog

Good, some small footholds!

with Tania T
Ian Bell 03/May/14 TR dog
with Tania T
Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead β
tommccluskey 26/Mar/14 Lead RP

First go today, draws in on lead. Crux pocket was soaking but the rest was dry. Got ridiculously pumped on the crack but just about battled through!

with Pippa, Petar
Petar Samkov 23/Mar/14 Lead RP

Got it second go but wouldnt mind climb this 10,20 100 more times . Honestly this is the best climb for so far here in Wales .Go and try it, deff no push over , proper 7a.

tommccluskey 23/Mar/14 Lead dog

Left foot on crimp. right foot HIGH on diagonal edge, then slap.

with Petar 27/Sep/13 Lead dnf
DaveFidler 27/Sep/13 TR RP

Seriously dooged on lead. Poor effort from me really.

with Gen
Stuart William 08/Jun/13 Lead dog

worked all the moves on lead but fell moving up to the last bolt on the final redpoint attempt, think I just got off balance for the layback moves and stepped in too far. First attempt at working a sport route, still got some things to learn about working routes.

Huw Mithan 06/Jun/13 TR dog
with Olivier Goury
FrenchOlly 06/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead RP
Gareth T 15/May/13 2nd dog
with Julian
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 04/Oct/12 Lead dog

Crux was wet

Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 08/Aug/12 TR dog
Hidden 29/May/12 Lead dog
richardr 24/Mar/12 Lead RP

2nd go.

Billg 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Bob Brewer
DafSWMC 06/Nov/11 Lead β
with Gareth
gingernick 24/May/11 Lead G/U

Bloody awsome, wanted it for ages

with Daryl
Hidden 12/May/11 TR RP
nutcracker 25/Sep/10 Lead dnf
with Mark Barrett
Marky B 25/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead RP
Tim W 06/Sep/09 TR RP

top-roped clean just second go

Tim W 21/May/09 Lead dog
Sarah Jenkins 21/May/09 2nd dog
with Tim W
Hidden 25/Apr/09 2nd dog
Cardi 23/Apr/09 TR dog

Will no doubt become some sort of red-point project for me. Felt do-able but hard! Lovely route

with Alex
tweedcore 09/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Will be back to finish this one.

with Marina Unterforsthuber
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Oct/07 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Oct/07 Lead RP
Billg ??/2007 Lead RP
with Bob Brewer
goi.ashmore 20/Aug/97 Lead β
with James Tracey
27 users have this on their wishlist
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set