Rockfax Description
The long crack and upper roof gives some classic crack climbing - with bolts. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The new retrobolted version. 2nd obvious crack splitting the main face climb to the roof then heave ho through it

R Thomas, M Learoyd 1990

Ticklists: CUMC Ticklist, South Wales by Train (from Cardiff).

TomJ 22/Apr Lead O/S
with afrosam
willchis 22/Apr Lead RP

Just go for the big move around the lip - it's easier than it looks!

with Stacy, Alyssa
gman2 17/Apr Lead O/S

great climb nice jams and commiting move over roof, coming back soon to try on trad

with paul
pdrums777 17/Apr Lead G/U
with Gareth (trev)
RosieYates 12/Apr Lead dog

Got spooked at the top and missed the obvious jug through the overhang. Nice climbing up to there and particularly fun through the crack.

with Jamie S
Saurusrock 12/Apr Lead dog

Got pumped out after emerging from the damp cave. Probably should have gone for it as the move after wasn't as hard as I thought it looked but ehhhh.

Megan.richardson1 09/Apr 2nd
waynekinrade 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Bates 24/Aug/16 Lead β
with Andy Brice
tom jefferies 15/Aug/16 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead rpt
badgerjockey 06/Aug/16 Lead β
with Rich/Kuang
Ally Smith 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Helen
Max Lowry 06/Aug/16 Lead β
Trisha Murphy 31/Jul/16 Lead rpt
afrosam 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
spearing05 25/Jul/16 Lead dog

Clean to roof then had to rest. Climbed back to this high point on a top rope, rested then led final moves good rest at roof, think I could get this.

with Andrew
Hidden 25/Jul/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 25/Jul/16 TR dog
MathewWright1998 15/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Ricky Rocks 15/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing, the top roof is great fun..

Carl Watkins 07/Jul/16 Lead dog
with del
tobydunford 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Elaine Reed 02/Jun/16 TR dnf
with Cerith, Rob
Hidden 02/Jun/16 TR dnf
Rob McGurk 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing.

mop449 30/May/16 Lead RP
dom_joyce265 30/May/16 Lead β
with mop449
GeneralFifi 30/May/16 Lead dnf

I don't want to talk about it...

Chris Redding 26/May/16 Lead O/S

Took a moment to realise that the crack had holds in. Last bolt is very rusty.

with Sam N-E
Tomas P 06/Sep/15 Lead RP
with Dan
Hidden 15/Aug/15 2nd
hutchay 11/Jul/15 Lead dog
yan hawkins ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Emily
Steve Lewis 10/Jun/15 Lead β
with Simon Smith
simo 10/Jun/15 Lead dog
with steve L
Hidden 12/Apr/15 Lead dog
Paula Ryan ?/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/15 Lead
MathewWright1998 ??/2015 Lead RP
A Jackson ??/2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead
hankyc 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S

a joy to climb, classic!

AndrewP 29/Jul/14 2nd dog

Was OK until the pull onto the top wall - a very powerful move.

FelixPeterken 29/Jul/14 Lead

Top bolts are too rusted for comfort. Huge top move for me, but probably because i'm too small.

with AndrewP
bluesharper 28/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Carwyn
ericinbristol 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

OS putting the clips in. Excellent climbing. I would not want to fall on most of those bolts.

Cheese Monkey 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Bolts in a poor state. Good climbing though!

with Eric
AndThenIWasFlying 05/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Dodge bolt around 3/4 height made me not to keen. DNF.

sideshow84 05/Jul/14 Lead dog

Top 2 bolts very rusty, in much need of replacing!!! Makes the top crux moves scarier than needs to be!!

gingernick 18/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Furry Goose ??/2014 -
Swamp murphy ??/2014 -
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
AJM 26/Aug/13 Lead β
with Kate Seaborne, Helen Seaborne
J1_TOV 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
ollie_e 25/May/13 Lead O/S
skippington 04/May/13 Lead dog

Meh. Bit dirty, bit loose, needs re-equipping (especially the lower-off).

imogen.fish 01/May/13 Lead O/S
with Hazel Watchcorn
Ollie B 30/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Previously fallen off.

with B.Brewer
Harvdog 14/Sep/12 Lead dog
with Elliot Clark
AshWH 29/Jul/12 Lead β
with Simon R
Paul Robertson 19/Jun/12 Lead dog
guy xavier percival 19/Jun/12 Lead β
with paul
Mattrock1711 28/May/12 Lead rpt
s.c.white 27/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/12 TR dnf
Dan_Carroll 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Mateusz
Dan Jenkin 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/11 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Jul/11 Lead β
mikeshewring 29/Jun/11 Lead RP
steve.warrington 26/Jun/11 Lead β
with Dave Simpson
chris wyatt 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Really good

with scottish dave, steve warrington
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 12/May/11 Lead dog

Scary finish with giant loose block foothold + rusty bolts

with ceri, ceri's mate ben
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead dog
arthur_de_briton 16/Apr/11 Lead
with tim wilkinson
Tim W 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
gingernick ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Dean,Daryl, Chris Guest
tombeasley 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Cleave
Betty M 11/Aug/10 Lead RP

Had a nice little sit down/rest in the cave en route. Nice climb

wilchivs 08/Aug/10 Lead dog

One rest moving through the roof.

Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead dog
Paul Bowen 10/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with John Crane
richardr 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/10 Lead
simonr 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/10 Lead dnf
Elizabeth Noyes 27/May/10 2nd
with Timmoa
Hidden 25/May/10 Lead dog
MorganPreece 25/May/10 Lead O/S

A must do!

with Jessy and Solo
Claire S-J 06/May/10 2nd

lovely route. move through overhang hard.

Maxim2023 ?/May/10 Lead RP
with Morgan Preece
Hidden ??/2010 -
dshearer 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with nia cooper
Dan_Carroll 07/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Richard R
Paz 28/Jun/09 Lead β
with MT
Trisha Murphy 11/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with ian
Tim W 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Andrew Davidson
hash 03/Jun/09 Lead dog

great route - one rest before top overhang

SteveK 03/Jun/09 TR dog

Rest before the overhang

with Mark batey
Hidden 29/May/09 Lead RP
gejones 26/May/09 Lead O/S
with DafSWMC
DafSWMC 26/May/09 Lead rpt
with Gareth
drysori ??/2009 -
petrot 29/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Got to the overhang, but got too pumped to finish. Fun route though.

DafSWMC 16/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Steve K
Paul Bowen 12/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with John James
Hidden ?/May/08 2nd rpt
Mark Walter 15/Apr/08 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2008 Lead rpt
irish paul ??/2008 Lead
Mark Walter 14/Jun/07 2nd
with Ben D
onlytovey ??/2007 Lead RP
alan rosier 20/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/06 Lead O/S
shoulders 30/Jul/06 Lead
with ben, PETE J, dai
goi.ashmore 22/Jul/06 Lead β


with Roy Thomas
Hidden 14/Jul/06 Lead β
liam jay ??/2004 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/03 Lead RP
Billg ?/May/00 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ?/Jul/92 Lead O/S
freelunchprovider ??/1990 -

1st ascent

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Style of ascent
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