18m.

Rockfax Description
The long crack and upper roof gives some classic crack climbing - with bolts. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The new retrobolted version. 2nd obvious crack splitting the main face climb to the roof then heave ho through it

R Thomas, M Learoyd 1990

Ticklists

CUMC Ticklist, South Wales by Train (from Cardiff), No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff), Michelle's crack ticklist, But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone?, Rockfax South Wales Sandstone Graded List, CoT Sandstone Mileage, Mid-Sixes Starred Valleys Sandstone

Feedback

UserDateNotes
afshapes 27 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Rushed the top and fell, I'll get it one day !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rushed the top and fell, I'll get it one day !
richsmithinbristol 12 May Show βeta
βeta: Loose hold right at the top I suspect used often to make the last moves. It is marked with an X. Move can be done without it but a bit harder.
 
Show beta
βeta: Loose hold right at the top I suspect used often to make the last moves. It is marked with an X. Move can be done without it but a bit harder.
Waity94 12 May Show βeta
βeta: Amazing climb, favourite in the crag so far! Loved the variety of moves, got my first hand jam into a outdoor climb with the roof topping it off, 3star from me! Sidenote was quite wet at the roof had to avoid certain holds!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing climb, favourite in the crag so far! Loved the variety of moves, got my first hand jam into a outdoor climb with the roof topping it off, 3star from me! Sidenote was quite wet at the roof had to avoid certain holds!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Roland stopps 21 Sep Lead O/S
with Nevil
with Nevil
Hidden 21 Sep 2nd
Joe Robertson 8 Sep Lead dog
BarwoodP 8 Sep Lead
Paul Robertson 8 Sep Lead RP
with Joe Robertson, William Robertson
with Joe Robertson, William Robertson
Marti999 31 Jul Lead O/S
with Ian Marks
with Ian Marks
Matt Clifton 28 Jul Lead rpt
with Helen
with Helen
JJones 28 Jul Lead RP Blew the overhang last year, got it first go this time. Excellent route, one of the best on the crag.
Blew the overhang last year, got it first go this time. Excellent route, one of the best on the crag.
Hidden 23 Jul Lead dog
Hidden 23 Jul Lead
Enid 14 Jul 2nd dnf Wouldn't mind going back to this
Wouldn't mind going back to this
caradogr 14 Jul Lead O/S
with Enid
with Enid
Ala.zarzeczna 13 Jul TR dog
Hidden 8 Jul TR dog
Hidden 8 Jul Lead rpt
wlin 7 Jul Lead O/S Extend the draw at ledge
with Abi
Extend the draw at ledge
with Abi
will_of_fortune 7 Jul Lead RP That finish!
That finish!
Hidden 7 Jul Lead RP
Clive Hogg 7 Jul Lead O/S Archie onsight
Archie onsight
Rhys Conlon 7 Jul Lead O/S
Jaako 5 Jul Lead Some rest under roof, commited last move.
with Chikara, Ed
Some rest under roof, commited last move.
with Chikara, Ed
hutchay 3 Jul Lead O/S
David Clover 3 Jul 2nd
with hutchay
with hutchay
Hidden 1 Jul Lead rpt
Edharrison 28 Jun Lead β
with Jaako
with Jaako
Hidden 27 Jun Lead dog
Jwatson 23 Jun Lead O/S
seweryn 1 Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jun Lead β
Billg 23 May Lead rpt
with PhoebeG
with PhoebeG
Hidden 16 May Lead dog
Hidden 16 May Lead dog
richsmithinbristol 12 May Lead O/S Superb route.
with DanielW
Superb route.
with DanielW
Waity94 12 May Lead β Amazing climb, favourite in the crag so far! Loved the variety of moves, got my first hand jam into a outdoor climb with the roof topping it off, 3star from me! Sidenote was quite wet at the roof had to avoid certain holds!
Amazing climb, favourite in the crag so far! Loved the variety of moves, got my first hand jam into a outdoor climb with the roof topping it off, 3star from me! Sidenote was quite wet at the roof had to avoid certain holds!
gingernick 6 May Lead rpt
BarwoodP 6 May Lead
Ignas Va 6 May Lead dog
Hidden 4 May Lead RP
eddieclimb 22 Apr Lead O/S
with alex, Jason Parker
with alex, Jason Parker
Wise 22 Apr Lead O/S Quality line with a big move at the top over the roof.
Quality line with a big move at the top over the roof.
Hidden 21 Apr Lead O/S
anthony henry 21 Apr Lead O/S
with Freya
with Freya
blaza1 1 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
arthur_de_briton 18 Aug, 2018 TR dnf Up to overhang. Don’t want to strain the knee with heel hook
with Myles, ben merrifield
Up to overhang. Don’t want to strain the knee with heel hook
with Myles, ben merrifield
Slater425 9 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Chris
with Chris
patrickcd 7 Aug, 2018 Lead
just one more 7 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
fammer 5 Aug, 2018 Lead β Great route. Only just made it to the rest below the roof, and then really enjoyed the final moves to the anchor.
Great route. Only just made it to the rest below the roof, and then really enjoyed the final moves to the anchor.
sideshow84 5 Aug, 2018 Lead RP Retro flash
Retro flash
Hidden 31 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
ashtasht 14 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
with Eve.G
with Eve.G
Jono15 9 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf
with John Woodfield
with John Woodfield
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 TR dog
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt
Jono15 2 Jul, 2018 2nd RP
Dugster 30 Jun, 2018 2nd dog One rest at the top
with cdpuk
One rest at the top
with cdpuk
cdpuk 30 Jun, 2018 Lead β
pguilloux 30 Jun, 2018 Lead
AlecCrisp 23 Jun, 2018 Lead β
Hidden 22 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
Eeep 20 Jun, 2018 TR dnf
TimCul 16 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
neilmclean 12 Jun, 2018 -
with Johnny Dawes
with Johnny Dawes
AliceMay37 12 Jun, 2018 Lead β
with Jen
with Jen
Cian 12 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S In this climb you rude the crack practically all the way to the top with some fun features scattered throughout, a huge ledge towards the top you can sit in leading up to some huge jugs to finish off.
In this climb you rude the crack practically all the way to the top with some fun features scattered throughout, a huge ledge towards the top you can sit in leading up to some huge jugs to finish off.
tommccluskey 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jake West, Katka, rafaelfordgonzalez, Lucia
with Jake West, Katka, rafaelfordgonzalez, Lucia
rafaelfordgonzalez 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Tom92 5 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
lorenzom 2 Jun, 2018 TR dog
with Pedro
with Pedro
Carl Watkins 1 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
with Jono15
with Jono15
myrddinmuse 1 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Hell of a route! The first half played to all I look for in a sport route.. Jamming! Unnecessary but I maintain that it was useful! Rested at the shelf curled up like some kind of gollum, climbed to the roof, committed, then realized I was too tired to do the move, so reversed to the shelf again. Rested, then committed and whipped off.. 3 times? Got it on the 4th by desperately lunging for the jug. Not a success but a breakthrough of sorts.
with Mesh
Hell of a route! The first half played to all I look for in a sport route.. Jamming! Unnecessary but I maintain that it was useful! Rested at the shelf curled up like some kind of gollum, climbed to the roof, committed, then realized I was too tired to do the move, so reversed to the shelf again. Rested, then committed and whipped off.. 3 times? Got it on the 4th by desperately lunging for the jug. Not a success but a breakthrough of sorts.
with Mesh
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
hlburns ?Jun, 2018 2nd
W d c 22 May, 2018 Lead rpt
with Justin
with Justin
ashtasht 20 May, 2018 Lead dog
with Eve.G
with Eve.G
Eve.G 20 May, 2018 2nd
Petar Samkov 19 May, 2018 Lead RP Fell off last move , got it the second time. Perfect hand jams in the middle.
Fell off last move , got it the second time. Perfect hand jams in the middle.
jk29 17 May, 2018 Lead dog
with Gareth
with Gareth
ericinbristol 17 May, 2018 Lead rpt Much more pleasant now it has new bolts.
Much more pleasant now it has new bolts.
bpmclimb 17 May, 2018 Lead dnf Felt weak today, lacked the oomph for the finish
Felt weak today, lacked the oomph for the finish
dickypips 9 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with gav
with gav
julesmckim 7 May, 2018 Lead O/S Fantastic! Moves over the roof were fun
with Joey
Fantastic! Moves over the roof were fun
with Joey
Jake Chapman 17 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Becky Athay ?Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with Sam Cann
with Sam Cann
Hidden 2 Sep, 2017 2nd dog
james n 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with Lisa P
with Lisa P
martinfindlay 1 Sep, 2017 -
Rob Knowles 23 Aug, 2017 Lead dog Almost onsighted but fell off last hard move, will have to come back for it
with Harry
Almost onsighted but fell off last hard move, will have to come back for it
with Harry
chrisscutt 9 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
jk29 5 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
jk29 26 Jun, 2017 TR dog
Strife 24 Jun, 2017 Lead dog Somehow skipped the good rest beneath the roof, and then couldn't summon the strength to pull through the crux on the first attempt. Long and pumpy routes give me so much grief
Somehow skipped the good rest beneath the roof, and then couldn't summon the strength to pull through the crux on the first attempt. Long and pumpy routes give me so much grief
Jimbob64 24 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Strife
with Strife
Wayne.Gaudin 18 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Sustained and pumpy with a harder than expected long move through the overhang.
Sustained and pumpy with a harder than expected long move through the overhang.
samparsons 28 May, 2017 Lead β
emmafizzle 28 May, 2017 Lead dnf Flashed everything except the steep roof- too scary!
Flashed everything except the steep roof- too scary!
Pork Knuckle 13 May, 2017 Lead dog
miriamclaire 13 May, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 9 May, 2017 2nd
TomJ 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with afrosam
with afrosam
willchis 22 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Just go for the big move around the lip - it's easier than it looks!
with stacybigkid, Alyssa
Just go for the big move around the lip - it's easier than it looks!
with stacybigkid, Alyssa
gman2 19 Apr, 2017 Lead G/U climbed this on sport few days ago but thought it would be exciting to do on trad. all gear was bomber but the mind games did creep in going over the roof. took a bit of encouragement from paul to get me over. dmm cams used 1 green, 2 red, 2yellow, 1blue and 1 dmm number 2 wire. pleased to do the route on trad
with paul
climbed this on sport few days ago but thought it would be exciting to do on trad. all gear was bomber but the mind games did creep in going over the roof. took a bit of encouragement from paul to get me over. dmm cams used 1 green, 2 red, 2yellow, 1blue and 1 dmm number 2 wire. pleased to do the route on trad
with paul
gman2 17 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S great climb nice jams and commiting move over roof, coming back soon to try on trad
with paul
great climb nice jams and commiting move over roof, coming back soon to try on trad
with paul
pdrums777 17 Apr, 2017 Lead G/U
with Gareth (trev)
with Gareth (trev)
RosieYates 12 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Got spooked at the top and missed the obvious jug through the overhang. Nice climbing up to there and particularly fun through the crack.
Got spooked at the top and missed the obvious jug through the overhang. Nice climbing up to there and particularly fun through the crack.
Saurusrock 12 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Got pumped out after emerging from the damp cave. Probably should have gone for it as the move after wasn't as hard as I thought it looked but ehhhh.
Got pumped out after emerging from the damp cave. Probably should have gone for it as the move after wasn't as hard as I thought it looked but ehhhh.
Megan.richardson1 9 Apr, 2017 2nd
waynekinrade 18 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Bates 24 Aug, 2016 Lead β
with Andy Brice
with Andy Brice
tom jefferies 15 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 6 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
badgerjockey 6 Aug, 2016 Lead β
with Rich/Kuang
with Rich/Kuang
Ally Smith 6 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with hms
with hms
Max Lowry 6 Aug, 2016 Lead β
Smurf-cat 31 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
with afrosam
with afrosam
afrosam 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
spearing05 25 Jul, 2016 Lead dog Clean to roof then had to rest. Climbed back to this high point on a top rope, rested then led final moves good rest at roof, think I could get this.
Clean to roof then had to rest. Climbed back to this high point on a top rope, rested then led final moves good rest at roof, think I could get this.
Hidden 25 Jul, 2016 Lead dnf
Hidden 25 Jul, 2016 TR dog
MathewWright1998 15 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
Ricky Rocks 15 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Really nice climbing, the top roof is great fun..
Really nice climbing, the top roof is great fun..
Carl Watkins 7 Jul, 2016 Lead dog
with del
with del
tobydunford 25 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 2 Jun, 2016 TR dnf
Hidden 2 Jun, 2016 TR dnf
Rob McGurk 2 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Brilliant climbing.
Brilliant climbing.
mop449 30 May, 2016 Lead RP
dom_joyce265 30 May, 2016 Lead β
with mop449
with mop449
GeneralFifi 30 May, 2016 Lead dnf I don't want to talk about it...
with mop449
I don't want to talk about it...
with mop449
Chris Redding 26 May, 2016 Lead O/S Took a moment to realise that the crack had holds in. Last bolt is very rusty.
with Sam N-E
Took a moment to realise that the crack had holds in. Last bolt is very rusty.
with Sam N-E
Tomas P 6 Sep, 2015 Lead RP
with Dan
with Dan
Hidden 15 Aug, 2015 2nd
yan hawkins ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
Steve Lewis 10 Jun, 2015 Lead β
with Simon Smith
with Simon Smith
simo 10 Jun, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 12 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden ?Apr, 2015 2nd
Hidden ?Apr, 2015 Lead
MathewWright1998 ??, 2015 Lead RP
A Jackson ??, 2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 Lead
hankyc 18 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S a joy to climb, classic!
a joy to climb, classic!
AndrewP 29 Jul, 2014 2nd dog Was OK until the pull onto the top wall - a very powerful move.
Was OK until the pull onto the top wall - a very powerful move.
FelixPeterken 29 Jul, 2014 Lead Top bolts are too rusted for comfort. Huge top move for me, but probably because i'm too small.
with AndrewP
Top bolts are too rusted for comfort. Huge top move for me, but probably because i'm too small.
with AndrewP
bluesharper 28 Jul, 2014 Lead dog
with Carwyn
with Carwyn
ericinbristol 25 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S OS putting the clips in. Excellent climbing. I would not want to fall on most of those bolts.
OS putting the clips in. Excellent climbing. I would not want to fall on most of those bolts.
Cheese Monkey 25 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Bolts in a poor state. Good climbing though!
Bolts in a poor state. Good climbing though!
Hidden 5 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf
sideshow84 5 Jul, 2014 Lead dog Top 2 bolts very rusty, in much need of replacing!!! Makes the top crux moves scarier than needs to be!!
Top 2 bolts very rusty, in much need of replacing!!! Makes the top crux moves scarier than needs to be!!
gingernick 18 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt
with 19Dan82
with 19Dan82
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Swamp murphy ??, 2014 -
Hidden 26 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
AJM 26 Aug, 2013 Lead β
with Kate Seaborne, hms
with Kate Seaborne, hms
J1_TOV 8 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S
skippington 4 May, 2013 Lead dog Meh. Bit dirty, bit loose, needs re-equipping (especially the lower-off).
Meh. Bit dirty, bit loose, needs re-equipping (especially the lower-off).
imogen.fish 1 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Hazel Watchcorn
with Hazel Watchcorn
Ollie B 30 Apr, 2013 Lead rpt Previously fallen off.
with B.Brewer
Previously fallen off.
with B.Brewer
Harvdog 14 Sep, 2012 Lead dog
with Elliot Clark
with Elliot Clark
AshWH 29 Jul, 2012 Lead β
Paul Robertson 19 Jun, 2012 Lead dog
guy xavier percival 19 Jun, 2012 Lead β
with paul
with paul
Mattrock1711 28 May, 2012 Lead rpt
s.c.white 27 Mar, 2012 Lead
Hidden 27 Mar, 2012 TR dnf
Dan_Carroll 25 Mar, 2012 Lead rpt
with Mateusz
with Mateusz
Dan Jenkin 14 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 1 Jul, 2011 Lead β
mikeshewring 29 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
steve.warrington 26 Jun, 2011 Lead β
with Dave Simpson
with Dave Simpson
chris wyatt 26 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Really good
with scottish dave, steve warrington
Really good
with scottish dave, steve warrington
Hidden 5 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt
Hidden 3 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 12 May, 2011 Lead dog Scary finish with giant loose block foothold + rusty bolts
with ceri, ceri's mate ben
Scary finish with giant loose block foothold + rusty bolts
with ceri, ceri's mate ben
Hidden 16 Apr, 2011 Lead dog
arthur_de_briton 16 Apr, 2011 Lead
with tim wilkinson
with tim wilkinson
Tim W 16 Apr, 2011 Lead rpt
gingernick ??, 2011 Lead O/S
with Dean,Daryl, Chris Guest
with Dean,Daryl, Chris Guest
tombeasley 29 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Chris Cleave
with Chris Cleave
Betty M 11 Aug, 2010 Lead RP Had a nice little sit down/rest in the cave en route. Nice climb
Had a nice little sit down/rest in the cave en route. Nice climb
wilchivs 8 Aug, 2010 Lead dog One rest moving through the roof.
One rest moving through the roof.
Hidden 8 Aug, 2010 Lead dog
Paul Bowen 10 Jul, 2010 Lead rpt
with John Crane
with John Crane
richardr 22 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Jun, 2010 Lead
simonr 5 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 May, 2010 Lead dnf
Elizabeth Noyes 27 May, 2010 2nd
Hidden 25 May, 2010 Lead dog
MorganPreece 25 May, 2010 Lead O/S A must do!
with Jessy and Solo
A must do!
with Jessy and Solo
Claire S-J 6 May, 2010 2nd lovely route. move through overhang hard.
lovely route. move through overhang hard.
Maxim2023 ?May, 2010 Lead RP
with Morgan Preece
with Morgan Preece
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
dshearer 11 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with nia cooper
with nia cooper
Dan_Carroll 7 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Richard R
with Richard R
Paz 28 Jun, 2009 Lead β
with MT
with MT
Smurf-cat 11 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
with ian
with ian
Tim W 11 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Andrew Davidson
with Andrew Davidson
hash 3 Jun, 2009 Lead dog great route - one rest before top overhang
great route - one rest before top overhang
SteveK 3 Jun, 2009 TR dog Rest before the overhang
with Mark batey
Rest before the overhang
with Mark batey
Hidden 29 May, 2009 Lead RP
gejones 26 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with DafSWMC
with DafSWMC
DafSWMC 26 May, 2009 Lead rpt
with gejones
with gejones
Goofyfoot ??, 2009 Lead dog Another fun climb, just a warning; the hanger underneath the overhang is starting to become loose and there is movememnt.
with Will Treasure
Another fun climb, just a warning; the hanger underneath the overhang is starting to become loose and there is movememnt.
with Will Treasure
Wil Treasure ??, 2009 -
petrot 29 Jun, 2008 Lead dnf Got to the overhang, but got too pumped to finish. Fun route though.
Got to the overhang, but got too pumped to finish. Fun route though.
DafSWMC 16 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Steve K
with Steve K
Paul Bowen 12 Jun, 2008 Lead rpt
with John James
with John James
Hidden ?May, 2008 2nd rpt
Mark Walter 15 Apr, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead rpt
irish paul ??, 2008 Lead
pete johnson 9 Aug, 2007 -
with emma alsford, Paul Donnithorne, Lun
with emma alsford, Paul Donnithorne, Lun
Mark Walter 14 Jun, 2007 2nd
with Ben D
with Ben D
Mihkel 22 May, 2007 Lead O/S A retro-bolted E3 5c.
A retro-bolted E3 5c.
Andrew1 21 Apr, 2007 Lead
with Andy Lewington
with Andy Lewington
Hidden 16 Apr, 2007 Lead
Hidden 16 Apr, 2007 Lead
onlytovey ??, 2007 Lead RP
goi.ashmore ??, 2007 -
with Roy Thomas
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 20 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
shoulders 30 Jul, 2006 Lead
with ben, PETE J, dai
with ben, PETE J, dai
goi.ashmore 22 Jul, 2006 Lead β Entertaining
with Roy Thomas
Entertaining
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 14 Jul, 2006 Lead β
W d c ??, 2005 -
Hidden 23 Jul, 2004 Lead O/S
liam jay ??, 2004 Lead
Hidden 14 Aug, 2003 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2002 Lead
Billg ?May, 2000 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ?Jul, 1992 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1990 -
Hidden ??, 1990 -
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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set