UKC

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Endangered Yellow Wagtails are currently nesting on Butt Hole Scoundrels - Fr. 6b+ (Line 3 on SWCW). Please avoid climbing in the Scoundrels Cave area until the end of September, and keep an eye out for others until then. 

They migrate from Africa to the UK around March till September, so will hopefully be on their way by October.

from 01/06/2025 to 30/10/2025

18m.

Rockfax Description
The long crack and upper roof is a classic challenge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The new retrobolted version. 2nd obvious crack splitting the main face climb to the roof then heave ho through it.

R Thomas, M Learoyd ( 1st trad ascent) 1990.

Ticklists

CUMC Ticklist , South Wales by Train (from Cardiff) , No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff) , Michelle's crack ticklist , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Rockfax South Wales Sandstone Graded List , CoT Sandstone Mileage , Mid-Sixes Starred Valleys Sandstone , South Wales - Road to 7a , Squamish 2026 road to Grand Wall

Feedback

User Date Notes
ZacMoss 10 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The block with a key crux right foothold moves, it's massive and will do some serious damage when it comes out. Seems keyed in but take care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The block with a key crux right foothold moves, it's massive and will do some serious damage when it comes out. Seems keyed in but take care.
MartinoPasswater 23 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose blocks and jugs at the top of the roof, be careful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very loose blocks and jugs at the top of the roof, be careful.
aled 4 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Birds nesting in the mouth below the overhang. Please avoid!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Birds nesting in the mouth below the overhang. Please avoid!
Flavio 1 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Bolting a crack like this makes no sense whatsoever, trad and sport can happily coexist.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bolting a crack like this makes no sense whatsoever, trad and sport can happily coexist.
afshapes 27 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rushed the top and fell, I'll get it one day !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rushed the top and fell, I'll get it one day !
richsmithinbristol 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose hold right at the top I suspect used often to make the last moves. It is marked with an X. Move can be done without it but a bit harder.
Show beta
βeta: Loose hold right at the top I suspect used often to make the last moves. It is marked with an X. Move can be done without it but a bit harder.
Waity94 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing climb, favourite in the crag so far! Loved the variety of moves, got my first hand jam into a outdoor climb with the roof topping it off, 3star from me! Sidenote was quite wet at the roof had to avoid certain holds!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing climb, favourite in the crag so far! Loved the variety of moves, got my first hand jam into a outdoor climb with the roof topping it off, 3star from me! Sidenote was quite wet at the roof had to avoid certain holds!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 61
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Fatal Reflection

Grade: 6b ***
(Mountain Ash)

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