Rockfax Description
The long crack and upper roof gives some classic crack climbing - with bolts. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The new retrobolted version. 2nd obvious crack splitting the main face climb to the roof then heave ho through it

R Thomas, M Learoyd 1990

Ticklists: CUMC Ticklist, South Wales by Train (from Cardiff), No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff).

Lisa P 02/Sep/17 2nd dog

Could reach the jug over the roof. Easy enough move, i've just not got the reach.

with james n
james n 02/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Lisa P
Rob Knowles 23/Aug/17 Lead dog

Almost onsighted but fell off last hard move, will have to come back for it

with Harry
chrisscutt 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S
jk29 05/Jul/17 Lead dog
jk29 26/Jun/17 TR dog
Strife 24/Jun/17 Lead dog

Somehow skipped the good rest beneath the roof, and then couldn't summon the strength to pull through the crux on the first attempt. Long and pumpy routes give me so much grief

Jimbob64 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Simon
Wayne.Gaudin 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Sustained and pumpy with a harder than expected long move through the overhang.

with eddie
samparsons 28/May/17 Lead β
with Emmie
emmafizzle 28/May/17 Lead dnf

Flashed everything except the steep roof- too scary!

Hidden 25/May/17 Lead O/S
Elliott's Pies 13/May/17 Lead dog
with Tomp
miriamclaire 13/May/17 Lead dog
Hidden 09/May/17 2nd
TomJ 22/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with afrosam
willchis 22/Apr/17 Lead RP

Just go for the big move around the lip - it's easier than it looks!

with Stacy, Alyssa
gman2 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S

great climb nice jams and commiting move over roof, coming back soon to try on trad

with paul
pdrums777 17/Apr/17 Lead G/U
with Gareth (trev)
RosieYates 12/Apr/17 Lead dog

Got spooked at the top and missed the obvious jug through the overhang. Nice climbing up to there and particularly fun through the crack.

with Jamie S
Saurusrock 12/Apr/17 Lead dog

Got pumped out after emerging from the damp cave. Probably should have gone for it as the move after wasn't as hard as I thought it looked but ehhhh.

Megan.richardson1 09/Apr/17 2nd
waynekinrade 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Bates 24/Aug/16 Lead β
with Andy Brice
tom jefferies 15/Aug/16 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead rpt
badgerjockey 06/Aug/16 Lead β
with Rich/Kuang
Ally Smith 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Helen
Max Lowry 06/Aug/16 Lead β
Trisha Murphy 31/Jul/16 Lead rpt
afrosam 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
spearing05 25/Jul/16 Lead dog

Clean to roof then had to rest. Climbed back to this high point on a top rope, rested then led final moves good rest at roof, think I could get this.

with Andrew
Hidden 25/Jul/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 25/Jul/16 TR dog
MathewWright1998 15/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Ricky Rocks 15/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing, the top roof is great fun..

Carl Watkins 07/Jul/16 Lead dog
with del
tobydunford 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Elaine Reed 02/Jun/16 TR dnf
with Cerith, Rob
Hidden 02/Jun/16 TR dnf
Rob McGurk 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing.

mop449 30/May/16 Lead RP
dom_joyce265 30/May/16 Lead β
with mop449
GeneralFifi 30/May/16 Lead dnf

I don't want to talk about it...

Chris Redding 26/May/16 Lead O/S

Took a moment to realise that the crack had holds in. Last bolt is very rusty.

with Sam N-E
Tomas P 06/Sep/15 Lead RP
with Dan
Hidden 15/Aug/15 2nd
yan hawkins ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Emily
Steve Lewis 10/Jun/15 Lead β
with Simon Smith
simo 10/Jun/15 Lead dog
with steve L
Hidden 12/Apr/15 Lead dog
Paula Ryan ?/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/15 Lead
MathewWright1998 ??/2015 Lead RP
A Jackson ??/2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead
hankyc 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S

a joy to climb, classic!

AndrewP 29/Jul/14 2nd dog

Was OK until the pull onto the top wall - a very powerful move.

FelixPeterken 29/Jul/14 Lead

Top bolts are too rusted for comfort. Huge top move for me, but probably because i'm too small.

with AndrewP
bluesharper 28/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Carwyn
ericinbristol 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

OS putting the clips in. Excellent climbing. I would not want to fall on most of those bolts.

Cheese Monkey 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Bolts in a poor state. Good climbing though!

with Eric
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead dnf
sideshow84 05/Jul/14 Lead dog

Top 2 bolts very rusty, in much need of replacing!!! Makes the top crux moves scarier than needs to be!!

gingernick 18/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2014 -
Swamp murphy ??/2014 -
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
AJM 26/Aug/13 Lead β
with Kate Seaborne, Helen Seaborne
J1_TOV 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
ollie_e 25/May/13 Lead O/S
skippington 04/May/13 Lead dog

Meh. Bit dirty, bit loose, needs re-equipping (especially the lower-off). 01/May/13 Lead O/S
with Hazel Watchcorn
Ollie B 30/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Previously fallen off.

with B.Brewer
Harvdog 14/Sep/12 Lead dog
with Elliot Clark
AshWH 29/Jul/12 Lead β
with Simon R
Paul Robertson 19/Jun/12 Lead dog
guy xavier percival 19/Jun/12 Lead β
with paul
Mattrock1711 28/May/12 Lead rpt
s.c.white 27/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/12 TR dnf
Dan_Carroll 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Mateusz
Dan Jenkin 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/11 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Jul/11 Lead β
mikeshewring 29/Jun/11 Lead RP
steve.warrington 26/Jun/11 Lead β
with Dave Simpson
chris wyatt 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Really good

with scottish dave, steve warrington
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 12/May/11 Lead dog

Scary finish with giant loose block foothold + rusty bolts

with ceri, ceri's mate ben
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead dog
arthur_de_briton 16/Apr/11 Lead
with tim wilkinson
Tim W 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
gingernick ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Dean,Daryl, Chris Guest
tombeasley 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Cleave
Betty M 11/Aug/10 Lead RP

Had a nice little sit down/rest in the cave en route. Nice climb

wilchivs 08/Aug/10 Lead dog

One rest moving through the roof.

Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead dog
Paul Bowen 10/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with John Crane
richardr 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/10 Lead
simonr 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/10 Lead dnf
Elizabeth Noyes 27/May/10 2nd
with Timmoa
Hidden 25/May/10 Lead dog
MorganPreece 25/May/10 Lead O/S

A must do!

with Jessy and Solo
Claire S-J 06/May/10 2nd

lovely route. move through overhang hard.

Maxim2023 ?/May/10 Lead RP
with Morgan Preece
Hidden ??/2010 -
dshearer 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with nia cooper
Dan_Carroll 07/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Richard R
Paz 28/Jun/09 Lead β
with MT
Trisha Murphy 11/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with ian
Tim W 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Andrew Davidson
hash 03/Jun/09 Lead dog

great route - one rest before top overhang

SteveK 03/Jun/09 TR dog

Rest before the overhang

with Mark batey
Hidden 29/May/09 Lead RP
gejones 26/May/09 Lead O/S
with DafSWMC
DafSWMC 26/May/09 Lead rpt
with Gareth
Wil Treasure ??/2009 -
petrot 29/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Got to the overhang, but got too pumped to finish. Fun route though.

DafSWMC 16/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Steve K
Paul Bowen 12/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with John James
Hidden ?/May/08 2nd rpt
Mark Walter 15/Apr/08 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2008 Lead rpt
irish paul ??/2008 Lead
pete johnson 09/Aug/07 -
with emma alsford, Paul Donnithorne, Lun
Mark Walter 14/Jun/07 2nd
with Ben D
Hidden 22/May/07 Lead O/S
onlytovey ??/2007 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/06 Lead O/S
shoulders 30/Jul/06 Lead
with ben, PETE J, dai
goi.ashmore 22/Jul/06 Lead β


with Roy Thomas
Hidden 14/Jul/06 Lead β
liam jay ??/2004 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/03 Lead RP
Billg ?/May/00 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ?/Jul/92 Lead O/S
freelunchprovider ??/1990 -

1st ascent

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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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