Rockfax Description
A superb direct line with some sustained climbing on the lower half that tackles the wall, long diagonal groove and huge pillar. Above this it links to Via delle Punte with 5 easier pitches leading the summit. It is protected by bolts on the crucial sections and threads on the connecting bits. The pitches are a maximum of 35m to the mid-height ledge. Abseil descent is possible but would be awkward from above pitch 6. A 70m rope and 17 quickdraws are required, although you can skip some in places and 14 will do. Start around 10m left of the short pillar, midway between this and the start of Via delle Punte.
1) 6b, 37m. Climb direct to a technical wall (hardest moves on the route?) then continue more easily ignoring the belay on the left to reach one slightly higher.
2) 6a+, 32m. Move up right then more steeply back left, with a tricky move to gain easier ground above. Easy climbing leads to a belay above.
3) 4b, 18m. A connecting pitch up to a big ledge.
4) 6a+, 30m. Move up easily to a steepening below a groove. Climb the wall left of the groove then cross back right to a belay.
5) 6a+, 25m. Climb up and make some delicate moves past a small roof before moving up right on some of the sharpest razor rock you will find anywhere! Belay in the corner.
6) 6b, 25m. You didn't expect that did you? It isn't as bad as it looks and leads to easier ground. Then make a delightful traverse right onto the pillar on sharp holds. If you want to abseil off then do it from here - the next pitch is difficult to abseil due to sharp rock that will snag and damage your rope.
7) 4c, 35m. Very sharp holds lead easily up left then back right to the summit of the central pillar. Move your belay across to a single-ring bolt belay and junctions with Via delle Punte.
8) 4a, 45m. Climb up to another belay then pull up right and follow the left side of the rib on sharp rock.
9) 5a, 30m. Pull right to a steep section on the nose of the rib and climb this on razor holds to a bulge. Make an thrutchy pull round this to a belay.
10) 4b, 38m. Move left then follow easy ground past a mix of fixed gear.
11) 4c, 35m. Go up leftwards to follow a couple of grooves.
12) 4b, 40m. Move up to easy ground then a steeper rib which leads to a big ledge and the last belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
(Sweet Dreams) A superb direct line with some sustained climbing on the lower half that tackles the wall, long diagonal groove and huge pillar. Above this it links to Fritelli Titt to the summit. It is protected by bolts on the crucial sections and threads on the connecting bits. The pitches are a maximum of 35m to the mid-height ledge and abseil descent is possible but would be awkward above pitch 6. A 70m rope and 17 quick draws are required although you can skip some in places and 14 will do. Start around 10m left of the short pillar, midway between this and the start of Fritelli Titt.
1. 6b, 37m. Climb direct to a technical wall (hardest moves on the route?) then continue more easily ignoring the belay on the left to one slightly higher.
2. 6a+, 32m. Move up right then more steeply back left with a tricky move to gain easier ground above. Easy climbing leads to a belay above.
3. 4b, 18m. A connecting pitch up to a big ledge.
4. 6a+, 30m. Move up easily to a steepening below a groove. Climb the wall left of the groove then cross back right to a belay.
5. 6a+, 25m. Climb up and make some delicate moves past a small roof then move up right on some of the sharpest razor rock you will find anywhere to a belay in the corner.
6. 6b, 25m. You didn’t expect that did you? It isn’t as bad as it looks and leads to easier ground. Then make a delightful traverse right onto the pillar on sharp holds. If you want to abseil off then do it from here since the next pitch is difficult to abseil due to sharp rock that snags and damages ropes.
7. 4c, 35m. Very sharp holds lead easily up left then back right to the summit of the central pillar.
8. 4a, 60m. An easy scramble leads past one belay to another sling and bolt belay - split here if you haven’t got 60m ropes - then pull up right and follow the left side of the rib on sharp rock.
9. 5a, 30m. Pull right to a steep section on the nose of the rib and climb this on razor holds to a bulge. Make an thrutchy pull round this to a belay.
10. 4b, 38m. Move left then follow easy ground past a mix of fixed gear.
11. 4c, 35m. Go up leftwards to follow a couple of grooves.
12. 4b, 40m. Move up to easy ground then a steeper rib which leads to a big ledge and the last belay.
Descent - Walk easily up to the summit plateau. Head rightwards for the full summit tick by the cross and a great view of San Vito. The track leads easily back down from here to the road keeping left at any junction.

Christoph Hainz, Thomas Engel 2019.

Ticklists

San Vito Lo Capo Multi-Pitch , ROCKFAX - San Vito Lo Capo (6b to 7b+) , ROCKFAX: Sicily 2021 - Graded List

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