The Gully to the left of Gardyloo Buttress. When not banked out there can be a small ice pitch that is around III.

Ticklists: Ben Nevis Gully Climbs, Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray, Winter Aspirations.

Webster 29/Apr Solo

pretty epic, the best low grade route I have ever done! grade III condition atm with brittle water ice after the tunnel giving the exciting crux

ModerateMatt 22/Apr 2nd

Moved together until chockstone, James led the final pitch which had a nice icy section and no cornice.

with James G
Hidden 01/Apr -
EcoClimber 14/Feb Lead

Mostly lead by Kieran (aged 15), apart from the final ice pitch, lead by me.

with Vicky King, Kieran Dougherty Smith
Hidden 11/Feb AltLd
JWTM 29/Jan -

Swimming through powder low down but good ice behind chockstone. Soloed all but engaging ice pitch higher up.

joem 28/Jan AltLd
with Craig
CHarrison 28/Jan -

Soloed the first pitch. Seconded Joe on the second. Looking at the top pitch in lean conditions we decided we didn't have the nessisary ice screw, bravery or skill. We started contemplating our retreat when Stu and Pete showed up and kindly offered to let us follow up on their ropes

philgillespie 28/Jan 2nd
Gemmazrobo 22/Jan 2nd

Very lean dinner plating top ice pitch made it tricky conditions for first ice but great day

with Ali
Cloverleaf 22/Jan Lead

Thin!! Poor ice, one screw, great fun. Suspect it would have caught anyone out who was expecting a grade III romp. There was a short step in the gully below the chockstone. Minimal base.

with Gemma R
paul_the_northerner 20/Jan AltLd dnf

Slushy, melting, got worse as we got higher. Got a few yards up the gully itself before turning round.

KAckroyd 20/Jan 2nd O/S

Solo'd the first pitch, second and 3rd as a second. Final pitch was steep thin ice.

Remyveness 20/Jan Solo

Soloed everything except the last pitch of ice which Paddy led. Was fairly thin but he got a few screws in.

niallsash 07/Jan Lead dnf

Very wet day melting all round. Top pitched melted out not enough left to climb. Can round finished out tower gully.

with kdo
kdo 07/Jan 2nd
eilidh_m 02/Jan 2nd
with Willie Milne
010paw 02/Jan AltLd

Quality route in very lean conditions. Top pitch was no where near II or III. At minimum a hard IV in todays condition I would have said, could certainly catch you out if you are only climbing at grade III. Really enjoyed it all the same and was a good choice for us on the day. New boots were hurting the feet, hopefully they break in sooner rather than later....

Pero 22/Apr/16 AltLd
Oliver Smaje 19/Mar/16 Lead rpt

Chockstone banked out, right hand groove.

Conor Nally 19/Mar/16 -
Kyrros 14/Feb/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/16 AltLd
damondavies 09/Jan/16 Lead
with Josh, Nick Bryan
Rob N 09/Jan/16 Solo O/S
with Bruce
Oliver Smaje 09/Jan/16 2nd O/S

stephen lead over the ice step

with stephen
nickb1 09/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
with damondavies, josh
Hugh Simons 06/Jan/16 Lead O/S

Soloed up through the impressive chockstone tunnel then lead the last ice bulge, definitely grade III in its current state. Cool route.

with Martin
Martin McKenna - UKC 06/Jan/16 Lead O/S

1 pitch required due to crud ice

Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Teappleby 31/Dec/15 Solo O/S

Bomber névé all the way to about 15m from the top. Then a short ice section, not very long (3/4m) but pretty steep luckily the bomber névé started again straight away afterwards. Maybe worth III like this.

harry_lewis 31/Dec/15 Solo O/S

good nevé with a nice bit of ice at the top

EcoClimber 31/Dec/15 Solo dnf

Tried it with just 1 axe. Got half way up top ice pitch. Then retreated. Great route. I'll be better prepared next time.

efrance24234 22/Dec/15 2nd O/S

Soloed up to top ice step. Slow plod till there.

Ewan Russell 20/Dec/15 Lead O/S

ice pitch at back of chimney III 4. Snow wasn't consolidated to get to ice bit of work was required. soloed up to there.

with Bede
bede.west 20/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Wooo! First climb on the Ben! Largly soloed apart from ewans lead of the III 4 ice pitch and then me taking the rope to the top.

bms 20/Apr/15 Solo

Short pitch over the chockstone.

Darkskys ??/2014 -
rob1 ??/2014 -
perrys 29/Nov/13 2nd O/S
masa-alpin 29/Nov/13 Lead rpt

Thin and very icy all the way. The crux ice wall after the massive chock stone was poorly protected tech 4, so V 4 was more appropriate in today's conditions. Great fun, though the weather was pretty poor with loads of spindrift. Simon's first proper ice(!) route.

with Simon P
Gawyllie 23/Nov/13 Lead

quite thin but solid higher up. the cave Pitch beyond the tunnel was probably the hardest climbing I have done to date, nearer IV than II

with john meechan
Parkie 03/Apr/13 Lead

Great conditions - hard neve from CIC hut all way to bottom of route, feels like a route in itself. Huge amounts of ice, rock belays hard to find - ice screw belays. No ice tunnel but ice pitch corner good value. Cornice easily break throughable on left. Fantastic day out in perfect overhead conditions. Only downside was RAF plane sweeping down Obervatory Gully cared the by Jesus out of us - we though we were caught in mother of all avalanches.

with Sally
mzchambers 29/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Ben G
scottie390 13/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
dav_713 13/Mar/13 AltLd
with Davie Scott
picasso 02/Mar/13 Lead
philipstead 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Excellent conditions and could not have been better. I had a bit of a problem in the ice tunnel as it was too small to fit through with the daypack so I had to attach my pack to my harness with a sling while in the tunnel. Ice build up has made the tunnel impassable with a pack about half way up.

max_dickens 18/Feb/13 2nd O/S
mike_tamanawis 09/Feb/13 2nd β
with Ollie, Chris Hop
Hidden 09/Feb/13 2nd O/S
wilkinscl 06/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Dangerous after heavy snowfall.

morpcat 06/Feb/13 -


Doogleman ?/Feb/13 Lead

Tunnel was just in (party in front dug out the top for us. Provided some nice shelter from a cold stormy day but required taking the bag off and wriggling. All great fun though

Tony Ryland ?/Feb/13 -

Mark's freeze and retreat

with Jonathan Davies
carl_123 12/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Mattlloyd10 10/Jan/13 2nd

Lasted longer than expected into the night. I found it a challenge.

mark12345 ??/2013 Solo dnf
rob16 ??/2013 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 -
6aPunter ??/2013 -
grp 18/Dec/12 Lead O/S

not sure how many grade ii's require a cut loose? probably easier with more ice

jon_ridley 18/Dec/12 -
becoming-stranger 18/Dec/12 2nd O/S
peter fetlar 15/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

neve poor, ice lean,chockstone 10ft gap,upper chimny ice cascade not fully formed ,desperte for grade technical 4

with stewart
Hidden 13/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
thebat 14/Apr/12 -
with Ontour
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead
Adamski1986 07/Apr/12 2nd

Kerry's second winter lead, brilliant climb, tunnel adds to the quality of route!

with kerry
Tim Rodgers 06/Apr/12 AltLd
alastairbegley 04/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic conditions, ice cave was great, very wintry looking mountain

parksy986 26/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

last of winter just, fantastic top pitch clear views on the summit

Roch 26/Mar/12 AltLd

Hottest march on record. Snow was still frozen at top of observatory gully, slightly soggier on top. Tower Scoop had 2 teams on it.

Hidden 26/Mar/12 AltLd
Sally Hudson 23/Mar/12 AltLd
with Alan Halewood
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Solo
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Solo
nokishatov 18/Mar/12 Solo O/S

Stepped out most of the way with a tight squeeze through the tunnel under chockstone, good fun!

ste_d 18/Mar/12 Solo O/S
with mik
PAJames 18/Mar/12 -

Good fun!

Blurgy319 18/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

The tunnel was formed really nicely which made for some interesting climbing

abbeywall 18/Mar/12 Lead

soloed up to cave, took rope through the tunnel but not really necessary as it turned out. Magical and unique!

with K, AC
jshields 17/Mar/12 AltLd
climberuk 17/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Soloed except for through the tunnel to the top. Drew led it. A tight squeeze through the cave. Definately high in the novelty grade.

with Drew, Nina
Hidden 14/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Ken Applegate 13/Mar/12 AltLd

Going through the ice tunnel was good fun!

with Rusty
Simonfarfaraway 05/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Did after Tower Scoop (Smiths had big queue, Good Friday was over-run with people), really enjoyable and unique route. Up through the ice tunnel!

with Huw
thomb 02/Mar/12 Solo

bizarre tunnel - felt like ice pot-holing - loved it.

kj001 01/Mar/12 2nd
phil64 01/Mar/12 Lead
with kj001
Steve Woollard 26/Feb/12 AltLd
with Joe Bellows
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead
Scott Dunkley 25/Feb/12 AltLd
with Dom S, Scott A
Hidden 15/Feb/12 2nd O/S
bowls 12/Feb/12 AltLd dnf

Turned back in the tunnel, too tight/loose to climb and the icefall on the right of the chocks-tone wasn't in condition.

Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Zoomer 14/Jan/12 Solo O/S

Solo upto the cave, steep and icy and like no grade II i've done before. Utterly knackered from the approach, climbing Tower Scoop, traversing across. Guy lead from the tunnel. No cornice at the moment.

guy757 14/Jan/12 -
latitude ?/Jan/12 AltLd
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
David86 07/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Mountainman62 07/Apr/11 -
steven 04/Mar/11 Lead

Right hand finish grade 3. No protection.

with Dave Ryder
Hidden 04/Mar/11 TR
Darrell Read 27/Feb/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Feb/11 2nd
richie88 24/Jan/11 -
Triggalicious 23/Jan/11 -
with Katie Main, Robbie Cammack, Ally Rocke
allyrocke 23/Jan/11 Solo O/S
with Morgan Trigg, Katie Main, Robbie
rcammack 23/Jan/11 Solo O/S

Ice pitch was definitely solid tech 3!

with Morgan Trigg, Katie Main, Alistair Rocke
Bob.allan 02/Jan/11 2nd
Ice Spider 02/Jan/11 AltLd

Gd III 4 15m ice pitch after long Gd I/II gully.

rossn ??/2011 -
31770 ??/2011 -
Andrew Wilson 29/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Tim Pearson
Hidden 28/Dec/10 2nd dog
George Ormerod 08/Apr/10 Lead β

Soft snow over ice, but no cornice on the left (luckily). The whole crag seemed to be melting as, just for a change, the weather forcast got the freezing level about 300m out.

with Buffy
Phil Emerson ?/Apr/10 AltLd

Nice little ice cave

Hannah V 20/Mar/10 2nd

Solo-ed the first 2 pitches up to the tunnel. Roped up for the top pitch - great ice bulge to climb. Excellent conditions

with James Yip, Suzana El-Massri
jamestheyip 20/Mar/10 Lead rpt

An unexpected ice pitch after the tunnel. Nice!

with Suzana El-Massri, Hannah Vickers
Hidden 16/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
mikemartin 08/Feb/10 Solo

I managed to get stuck in between the rock and ice on the top icefall and dropped my pack whilst trying to free myself, I picked it up later from the base of tower gully about 500m down! The top ice pitch felt awkward and hard, at least 4 in the conditions encountered.

Hidden 01/Feb/10 2nd dnf
colinthrelfall ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
DavPk 19/Apr/09 Lead

Hard and icy conditions with very little gear til the top ice pitch which was climbed on the right - probably grade III here. Big overhanging cornice. Found a way through on the left - quite serious runout though with big exposure over the right end of indicator wall.

with Catherine Pearks
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead
Col Kingshott ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
jamestheyip ?/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Piet Wolters
Hidden 23/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Missed indicator wall due to poor visibility, lots of melting and falling ice. Gully was banked out with snow so did the right-hand corner.

freemanTom 27/Feb/09 Solo dnf

Eerie day as Ben was empty, lots of stuff falling down. Too much snow to go under chockstone. Grade 3 groove in very poor condition so bailed.

Hidden 25/Feb/09 Lead
Billy Walker - Bad Seller 24/Feb/09 2nd O/S

climbed with don, had to do the right hand variation cave pitch covered! probably at IV

JonHarvey 19/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Harry Ellis 01/Feb/09 Lead
size9hex ?/Feb/09 AltLd dnf

Plan B after seeing the sorry state of Tower Scoop. Bailed at the chockstone - choked with snow underneath, and unappealing conditions up the right hand groove. Happy to leave given the amount of falling debris.

Chris wilson 03/Jan/09 AltLd

As the old SMC guidebook suggests the steep ice pitch behind the chockstone in lean conditions is harder than II.

with Allan
stevepotter 02/Jan/09 Lead
with steve taylor
rossn ??/2009 -
cragmanuk ??/2009 -
with Ian Lamb, John Elliott,Fergal Corrigan
Rich35 ??/2009 AltLd
Hidden ??/2009 -
CT6419 ??/2009 -
Glyn 31/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Hard last pitch (steep water ice)

sneaks 31/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Started route at night of new years eve, Topped out for about half 12 new years day. Beer on the summit, Awesome start to a new year! Solo'd the whole route from valley floor up to the ice pitch after the 'cave/tunnel' by head torch then roped up for the ice wall which was tricky with big bags on. Guide states grade III,4 in this condition. Felt pretty stiff but that might just be the awkwardness and only light by headtorch speaking. Mint :)

with Gibby
davefount 31/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

plenty of space under the chockstone, but then a short pitch of hard water ice, (small overhanging bulge). My guess is III,4 although the guy behind us said you wouldn't find anything more technical on .5

with Glyn
wookie667 31/Dec/08 2nd
with keith
gripped01 ?/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Emily Flynn
Hidden ?/Dec/08 2nd
mgg 20/Apr/08 -
with SD
thomasaneurinsmith 19/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Carol Goodall
Hidden ?/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
butteredfrog 26/Mar/08 -
Hidden 23/Mar/08 Lead O/S
glaramara 15/Mar/08 AltLd

feckin cold

with dr marten
Hidden 01/Mar/08 AltLd
jimorothy ?/Mar/08 Lead

Snow very loose windslab, it was genuinely a relief to get to the ice pitch on the chockstone as it was the first reliable gear placement on the entire climb and much easier than dealing with the loose stuff! Good route though.

with Rachel Crolla
Dunx 24/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Adam
Dunx 24/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Adam
Adam Humphreys 24/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Great climb, done by accident, just hope someone else has dug under the chock stone!

with Dunx
Hidden 24/Feb/08 AltLd
Captain Solo 17/Feb/08 Solo rpt
malc 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Fantastic Caving Expedition

with Paul S
richard s 14/Feb/08 2nd
with Mark Walker, Kay Smith
Gman 13/Feb/08 Lead

Backed off chockstone pitch. Too much snow to tunnel through but too thin to climb over. Descended and then traversed below Smith's Route to finish up Tower Gully.

with James, Steven, Ritchie
Merlin 07/Jan/08 AltLd dnf

Lots of spin drift and fragile ice coming down the last pitch, abbed off.

with Alex Elliot
Adam Humphreys ??/2008 -
Phill_ Thompson ??/2008 AltLd
with skarabrae, Helen Whiteman, Ian Gardiner, Lucy Prins
stuaart ??/2008 Lead O/S

Moved together until chockstone.

with Neil Redgrave
Hidden 30/Dec/07 Lead
dthomson 08/Apr/07 Lead

very easy except chockstone which had rock hard ice

with paul robinson
hamish2016 02/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Grade 3 condition (tunnel blocked but not banked out, had to take alternative route to the right up steep ice)

with Ross Overhead, Oli
roverhead 02/Mar/07 2nd
with oli
geoff b 23/Feb/07 AltLd

Nice easy route for the day but I still pinged off when the cornice collapsed on me as I exited! Thankfully I had a good ice screw & merely slithered down a short way.

with Dr. Nick
Hidden 21/Feb/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
tatz45 ?/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 04/Jan/07 Lead O/S

My first visit to Ben Nevis. With Graeme's friend, Ben. Not well protected. Took a through route below the chockstone. Topped out at 19:30. Tough day! Graeme made the summit of Ben at last in his 3rd attempt.

gb83 04/Jan/07 2nd

thin conditions-more ice than snow prob closer to grade III.great route though

with M.sakano, B.Hayler
alan wilson ??/2007 -
niall_mac ?/May/06 Lead
Howard J 04/Feb/06 AltLd O/S

Also with Keith Waddell. A fine ice pitch to finish, which I led. Quite lean conditions and a definite Grade III.

with Rachel James
KeithW 04/Feb/06 AltLd O/S

H got the tricky ice pitch in the final chimney

with Howard & Rachel
Hidden 01/Feb/06 AltLd
rossn ?/Feb/06 AltLd O/S

We had no ice screws, the cave was buried and so had to climb the runnel up the right edge using 2 screws left by the party in front.

with Nick Bryan
Luke Brooks 30/Jan/06 AltLd

Lean, ice pitch under chockstone, III, 4

Hidden 07/Jan/06 Solo
Dave Latimer 01/Jan/06 Lead O/S
benclimbing 01/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
Ice Spider 01/Jan/06 Lead
with Louisa
mike.moss ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Andy Buckley
Louisa ??/2006 2nd
with Jason
Hidden ??/2006 -
Captain Solo 21/Feb/05 Solo
ruaridhmac 10/Feb/05 Lead

Under chockstone on nice ice.

with Fabian Schulmeyer
John Andrew Simpson ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Alex Walker
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Solo
luckyjim ?/Mar/04 AltLd
with tom ballard
Elastic Jones 09/Jan/04 Lead O/S
with Chris Cox
easers 02/Mar/03 AltLd
with Doug Aitken
Tim W 21/Feb/03 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Wilkinson
Ed Saint ?/Feb/03 -
John Kettle ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/02 AltLd
zero six ??/2002 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/01 Lead
ruaridhmac 17/Feb/01 Solo
Hidden 18/Jan/01 -
akhughes ??/2000 -
Jacob Ram 07/Jan/99 Lead O/S
with mike taylor
Dave Almond ??/1999 Solo
joe king 30/Dec/98 Solo
with paul grace
michael burrows 31/Jan/98 AltLd
with mark ryan
Mark Stevenson 25/Jan/98 AltLd O/S
with Rowland Barker
Hidden 06/Mar/97 2nd
iskra2000 20/Jan/97 AltLd dnf

DNF Reached a chockstone

with Mark Smith
dangates ??/1997 Lead
with Matt Higgenson/ Kirk / Nick T
NickJH ?/Mar/96 AltLd O/S

Queued at bottom of Point Five Gully whilst Catherine Destiville was being filmed climbing the classic route. Got bored and finished up this instead - provided a sporting pitch of steepish ice after the chockstone

with JOwen
JiveWeasel ?/May/95 2nd
with Al H
michaelb1 02/Apr/95 Lead
with A Kenny
Hidden ?/Mar/95 -
Hidden 02/Jan/95 Lead
FrankW ?/Mar/94 AltLd O/S
with Andy R
Hidden 10/Feb/94 Lead O/S
Sime64 ?/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Gill
dodders 21/Feb/93 AltLd
with Dick Hargreaves
Mick King 29/Dec/92 Lead
with Steve Brodie
charlesmfrench 12/Dec/92 Lead O/S
with James Menzies
Yourlead 09/Dec/91 AltLd

V lean and iron hard ice on chockstone - in hard IV 4 conditions.

with Graham Penny
pingora 10/Dec/89 AltLd
with Nick
surfbish ?/Feb/88 Lead O/S
johnkeith ??/1988 -
with G. Callander
Hidden 26/Jan/87 AltLd
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
jon 28/Feb/85 Lead
with students
Mark Kemball 29/Mar/84 Solo
Sean Kelly ?/Feb/84 AltLd

Managed to squeeze through the chockstone pitch but the little ice wall above was quite steep, followed by horizontal arms in steeper sugar snow. Stunning weather.

with Joe Flynn
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1984 Solo
Martin Bennett 02/Jan/82 -
with Bob Thomson
Nigel Bond 17/Mar/81 Solo
auldscotal ?/Apr/75 AltLd O/S
with Paul Murton
Martin Bennett 25/Feb/75 -
with JD
Paul Clarke ??/1975 -
with FMC
Hidden ?/Dec/65 -
uphillnow ?/Apr/64 -

A lot of new snow, hard work getting to it. Heavily banked out.

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High III
High II
Mid II
Low II
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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