730m, 18 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The classic route of the face is a fine climb which follows the crack and chimney systems in the centre of Cima Catinaccio.
Start in the centre of the east face, below and left of the line of cracks which split the face by a right-trending ramp.
1) II, 45m. Follow easy ground right to a good stance, just left of a yellow corner.
2) IV+, 20m. Step right and climb the corner to half-height, then exit left following cracks diagonally, ignoring a second corner.
3) V, 30m. Climb right to enter another yellow corner and climb this past a chockstone before traversing left to a good stance below a niche.
4) VI-, 20m. Climb up to the niche and exit it on the right on good holds, then climb direct up a well-pegged crack to a stance in the crack-line.
5) V, 35m. Make an easy but quite exposed traverse right to enter a chimney. Climb this and overcome a roof on its left to reach a stance below a corner.
6) IV-, 50m. Don't climb the corner; instead traverse back left to re-enter the crack system, then climb this as it widens to a chimney to reach a stance by a small pillar below a yellow corner.
7) IV+, 35m. Climb direct for a few metres then follow a ramp right before a diagonal crack in the same line leads to a good stance by a detached flake.
8) IV+, 30m. Climb the flake and the crack above. Avoid a corner by moving easily left then direct before a ramp leads back right.
9) V, 40m. Climb a crack direct then exit left onto the face. Climb this, avoiding a small bulge on its left, then direct to a good thread belay.
10) IV+, 45m. Move right then climb direct to rejoin the crack system. Follow this into a continuation chimney and climb this to a spike belay.
11) IV, 45m. Follow easier and blocky ground right then back left, then climb a chimney past a large chockstone.
12) IV, 35m. Continue easily in the chimney, climb a crack above then follow an easy ramp left to a stance in the crack.
13) V+, 35m. Continue following the crack direct with some stiff but well-protected moves to a good ledge.
14) IV, 45m. Follow a ramp rightwards to a good ledge below a yellow crack.
15) IV, 20m. Continue rightwards up the ramp, broken by a short chimney, then move right to a stance below a well-pegged crack.
16) V, 30m. Climb the short crack diagonally right then continue direct to belay below a prominent chimney.
17) V+, 30m. Climb the flared chimney to a stance on the left.
18) III, 50m. Follow easier ground direct then diagonally left up a wide chimney.
19) II, 45m. Climb the spur above direct.
20) II, 50m. Continue easily in the same line to reach the summit ridge.
21) I, 70m. Follow the ridge easily to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
East Face. Following the center of the 650 meter east face via Parallel cracks. This long - and thus strenuous and sustained, route offers plenty of great, and varied climbing, from the steep corner right at the start to the tricky yellow wall (overhang) at the end. Based On solid and well pegged rock.

6-7 hours + descent

UIAA VI- A0

More infomation In Extreme Alpine Rock.

Hans Steger, Paula Wiesinger, Fred Masé Dari, Siegfried Lechner. Aug/1929

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Big Routes

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Mike Hood 21 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Luis SD 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Chris Sieradzki 4 Jul, 2016 AltLd Long long day. Many mistakes. Firstly I forgot to take helmet so had to run from the base of the wall to hut and back again (40 minutes). On the second pitch on the ramp i climbed too far and we had to abseil diagonally down to little pillar stance. Whole day in the clouds. Chimney pitches unpleasently wet. Toped out at 21.15. Descent down in the dark and completely exhaustead back to hut 2 a.m. The best mountain experience so far
with kcichy
Long long day. Many mistakes. Firstly I forgot to take helmet so had to run from the base of the wall to hut and back again (40 minutes). On the second pitch on the ramp i climbed too far and we had to abseil diagonally down to little pillar stance. Whole day in the clouds. Chimney pitches unpleasently wet. Toped out at 21.15. Descent down in the dark and completely exhaustead back to hut 2 a.m. The best mountain experience so far
with kcichy
kcichy 4 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Alex Munnery ?Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 28 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Ralfy 2 Aug, 2012 AltLd
with james duffie
with james duffie
Neil Adams 8 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Great line up a big face, although probably not 3* climbing
Great line up a big face, although probably not 3* climbing
Alasdair Fulton 8 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Not sure about my thoughts on this one. First route in the Dolomites. Seemed like a lot of the climbing was not very sustained or difficult. Probably just getting used to the rock/style but it didn't feel like it was on quite as good rock as other places. Like Neil says - great line and feels like a big face. The second last belay is particularly airy and exposed!
Not sure about my thoughts on this one. First route in the Dolomites. Seemed like a lot of the climbing was not very sustained or difficult. Probably just getting used to the rock/style but it didn't feel like it was on quite as good rock as other places. Like Neil says - great line and feels like a big face. The second last belay is particularly airy and exposed!
steveb2006 25 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with Chris Parkin
with Chris Parkin
Hidden 15 Aug, 2009 AltLd
jimdanson 15 Aug, 2009 AltLd The penultimate hard pitch is one of the best I have climbed, anywhere, ever.
with Bob Curry, dan middleton
The penultimate hard pitch is one of the best I have climbed, anywhere, ever.
with Bob Curry, dan middleton
Hidden 28 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
NickJH ?Jul, 2007 AltLd dnf
with M Bennett
with M Bennett
lukehunt ?Aug, 2006 -
with IJ
with IJ
IanJackson ?Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S Started too late at 7.30am, caught in storm at 3pm on last pitch. Great quality climbing through out. Topo in Classic Dolomite climbs is slightly wrong. Read with care
with Luke Hunt
Started too late at 7.30am, caught in storm at 3pm on last pitch. Great quality climbing through out. Topo in Classic Dolomite climbs is slightly wrong. Read with care
with Luke Hunt
jev ??, 2006 -
with Jonas
with Jonas
dan gibson ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with eddie church
with eddie church
Hidden 7 Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S
bobelvedere 16 Jul, 1981 AltLd
with Niels Ole Bernsen
with Niels Ole Bernsen
Hidden ?Sep, 1979 -
eroica64 25 Jul, 1971 AltLd Good route. Roger did more leading. 7.5 hours. First grade six in Dolomites. Descent by Ordinary Route.
with Roger Everett
Good route. Roger did more leading. 7.5 hours. First grade six in Dolomites. Descent by Ordinary Route.
with Roger Everett
jcw ?Aug, 1965 -
with Christian Mollier
with Christian Mollier
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Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
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