25m.

Rockfax Description
A great boot-sized crack. Follow the crack. Abseil descent. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A gem of a route with excellent protection. Ascend the awkward groove (sometimes damp) to the right of the steep face, stepping left at the hanging flake to tackle the crack directly. The crack is climbed on good jams with holds out left sometimes useful. Abseil decent from the tree several metres higher up.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Georgina Brooke 26 Aug 2nd Good. I needed to rest and it did smell of mould rather but I did the tricky strengthy move up to flake and the jamming so was happy with that.
Good. I needed to rest and it did smell of mould rather but I did the tricky strengthy move up to flake and the jamming so was happy with that.
BarneyLoosemore 23 Aug 2nd
acrkirby 23 Aug Lead O/S
Rickloynds 27 Jul - Xxze ccccpd46d
Xxze ccccpd46d
Rickloynds 27 Jul -
DeaNomNom 28 Jun Lead O/S Perfect route to learn jamming on! Clean crack and forced jamming.
Perfect route to learn jamming on! Clean crack and forced jamming.
GeorgT 18 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Tom Draude 9 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S A 45 minute battle with the crack, resulting with me coming out on top.... Cracking climb to get me back into HVS, great moves!
with Adam
A 45 minute battle with the crack, resulting with me coming out on top.... Cracking climb to get me back into HVS, great moves!
with Adam
Sam Husband 29 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Great route, could do with more traffic to keep lichen off. Tat at abseil could do with being replaced.
Great route, could do with more traffic to keep lichen off. Tat at abseil could do with being replaced.
ebutton 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S Not used to jamming. Quite a challenge, but great fun
Not used to jamming. Quite a challenge, but great fun
TimvanRiessen 19 May, 2018 2nd β
with ebutton
with ebutton
jobangles 7 May, 2018 2nd β
with Laura, JT
with Laura, JT
Sunil5053 12 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jack
with Jack
Hidden 2 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
alexspurling 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Excellent HVS crack climbing. Consistent and technical. Requires full complement of resources. Top is a grassy scramble to the tree anchor.
with WillGW
Excellent HVS crack climbing. Consistent and technical. Requires full complement of resources. Top is a grassy scramble to the tree anchor.
with WillGW
WillGW 27 Aug, 2017 2nd β Very hard on the feet. Nearly came off a couple of times
Very hard on the feet. Nearly came off a couple of times
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
LovelyMrTom 7 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Paul backed off from about half way. I then climbed to his high point, lead on from there until the final section at which point I had run out of mid-sized gear and backed off.
Paul backed off from about half way. I then climbed to his high point, lead on from there until the final section at which point I had run out of mid-sized gear and backed off.
Paul Baxter 7 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf
ducle 28 Aug, 2016 2nd dog Bit of a mission in the wet...
with Nick Shelley
Bit of a mission in the wet...
with Nick Shelley
GwilymR 25 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
Jemima Churchhouse 25 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S First HVS! Ran out of cams at the top. As Gwil was seconding, from a single stance he managed to remove 3 cams.... I think I have progressed considerably since then
with GwilymR
First HVS! Ran out of cams at the top. As Gwil was seconding, from a single stance he managed to remove 3 cams.... I think I have progressed considerably since then
with GwilymR
Hidden ??, 2016 2nd
James Beaumont 17 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S Great route, good for a nice easy day
with Dan
Great route, good for a nice easy day
with Dan
SenzuBean 5 Sep, 2015 Lead dog Unfortunately I chose this as my first HVS lead attempt... I thought it looked easy... Relatively early on in the climb, I found I needed to smear the wall to reach higher - but despite my best attempts (8 or so goes), my feet slipped every time, and I got stupidly pumped. On the last go, I thought I'd wipe the rock - just for a laugh since nothing else was working. As if by magic, the last attempt succeeded - what a painful way to learn the lesson to just clean dirty rock before attemping to smear on it!!! I climbed up to the small grassy niche where the thin crack starts, but couldn't figure out the sequence before running out of strength - had a fall onto the gear. Rested up, and managed it the next go, and finished up cleanly into the muddy horrow show of a top out (it was as scary as the climb itself to be honest, except with no gear)
with Paul C
Unfortunately I chose this as my first HVS lead attempt... I thought it looked easy... Relatively early on in the climb, I found I needed to smear the wall to reach higher - but despite my best attempts (8 or so goes), my feet slipped every time, and I got stupidly pumped. On the last go, I thought I'd wipe the rock - just for a laugh since nothing else was working. As if by magic, the last attempt succeeded - what a painful way to learn the lesson to just clean dirty rock before attemping to smear on it!!! I climbed up to the small grassy niche where the thin crack starts, but couldn't figure out the sequence before running out of strength - had a fall onto the gear. Rested up, and managed it the next go, and finished up cleanly into the muddy horrow show of a top out (it was as scary as the climb itself to be honest, except with no gear)
with Paul C
Hidden ??, 2015 Lead
dicky79 18 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with James D
with James D
Qureshi 4 May, 2014 2nd O/S
adamre12 4 May, 2014 Lead O/S A worthwhile exercise in hand and foot jamming. Fun.
with Qureshi
A worthwhile exercise in hand and foot jamming. Fun.
with Qureshi
HIGHTOWER 3 May, 2014 2nd
with Tom Hansford
with Tom Hansford
Hidden 3 May, 2014 Lead
ianstevens 19 Apr, 2014 -
james.slater 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Pretty tough with several hard sections! A proper HVS battle!
Pretty tough with several hard sections! A proper HVS battle!
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 2nd
with Andy Chapman
with Andy Chapman
Hidden 13 Nov, 2013 Lead
JamesWilliams 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S real dirty. A proper old school route a tough proposition and shite belay/abseil
with JamesA
real dirty. A proper old school route a tough proposition and shite belay/abseil
with JamesA
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 2nd
Coops_13 14 Oct, 2012 Lead dnf Slippery and lichenous and top crack wet so traversed off on sketchy moss...
Slippery and lichenous and top crack wet so traversed off on sketchy moss...
richardlong78 21 Jun, 2012 Lead dnf Fell 2 m from top
with Sophie Foxen
Fell 2 m from top
with Sophie Foxen
Hidden ??, 2012 AltLd
groliver26 15 Oct, 2011 2nd
Hidden 15 Oct, 2011 2nd dnf
jon_ridley 15 Oct, 2011 Lead dnf backed off, couldn't move out left
backed off, couldn't move out left
sian88 5 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 Aug, 2011 Lead
leowestland ?Aug, 2011 Lead
w-watson 26 Jul, 2011 Lead
peterstanworth 12 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Great laybacking cracks, but covered with lychen and a scary as sh### death scramble to the tree belay at the top
Great laybacking cracks, but covered with lychen and a scary as sh### death scramble to the tree belay at the top
dan ely 22 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
tim newton 22 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
with dan ely
with dan ely
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
mattshort 15 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
JulesV 23 May, 2010 2nd O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 13 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S A brilliant climb,excellent jamming and gear. Probably a little overlooked i guess but it just needs a few more ascents to clean it. Medium cams.
with geraint
A brilliant climb,excellent jamming and gear. Probably a little overlooked i guess but it just needs a few more ascents to clean it. Medium cams.
with geraint
Ows ?Sep, 2009 2nd
peter myers ?Sep, 2009 Lead dog
with Ralph Heath
with Ralph Heath
Rob Davies 22 Aug, 2009 Lead dog Greasy at start but that was OK. However, plant obstructed entry into niche - big enough to get in the way but not solid enough to pull on. Good jamming above that.
with neilh
Greasy at start but that was OK. However, plant obstructed entry into niche - big enough to get in the way but not solid enough to pull on. Good jamming above that.
with neilh
lukehodson 19 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S fiercely technical for hvs
fiercely technical for hvs
Ewan Russell 14 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S Brilliant, would get 3 stars in yorkshire and VS!
with Mike(Dad)
Brilliant, would get 3 stars in yorkshire and VS!
with Mike(Dad)
Hidden ?Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Rachel Stroud 7 May, 2009 2nd dog
with Ben Alsford
with Ben Alsford
Hidden ??, 2009 -
psychicbread 13 Jul, 2008 Lead dnf very green at crux, hard to layback, wrecked my hands.
with Max
very green at crux, hard to layback, wrecked my hands.
with Max
Hidden 11 Jun, 2008 2nd
Hidden 7 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
tumbling wizard ??, 2008 -
tumbling wizard ??, 2008 -
@ndyM@rsh@ll ?Jun, 2007 2nd O/S
Hidden 23 May, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2004 TR
michael burrows 13 Sep, 2002 AltLd dog one point of rest
with helen swygart
one point of rest
with helen swygart
Stone Muppet ??, 2000 -
nigehughes ?Dec, 1987 2nd
with Adrian Hughes
with Adrian Hughes
Nick Biven 8 Jun, 1986 Lead
The Jazz Butcher ??, 1986 -
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 23
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set