UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

05/05/2023 - Reports of the kestrel returning to nest have been received. Until this is fully verified, please refrain from climbing the routes 'Mouse Trap', 'Owl and the Antelope', and 'On Jupiter and Mars

 

 

25/05/2022 - We have now confirmed that there is a kestrel nest halfway up the "Owl and the Antelope". Please refrain from climbing routes in this area from April 15th - July 31st to allow the birds to care for their young. 

 

BMC have been advised that Barn Owls could be nesting at this crag. If so these birds have special protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act.  Avoid climbing the routes on the Left Hand Retaining wall "Left Over" to "Half man-Half Machine"  inclusive.

 

Rockfax Description
Follow a left-trending line to gain the grassy ledge. Go left and then follow the right-trending ramp up the final wall - airy. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Takes a right to left trending line of bolts on the lower slab, passing
the very large pocket, to move into the 'V' groove below the grassy ledge (shared with Bolt Fund Blues). The upper wall is taken via a ramp running left to right.

G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes 1983.

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User Date Notes
SteveLobley 5 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: BEWARE! This is very sparely bolted up at the grassy slope where you walk across to the top section. It's also a ballsy and edgy mount up onto the equally sparsely bolted scoop where you move right to the chains. You can clip the bolt at the exit of the notch in the rock above you as you get up onto the grassy ledge, but as you move left to access the base of the scoop THAT'S IT....No bolts and nothing until you can climb the mantles above on the far left and then can move right to be above your last clip - I failed to make the very sketchy initial mount up onto the scoop, popped off and bounced down onto the grassy ledge and then straight off and over the edge of the main drop. A highly impressive and epic fall due to the length of rope that is out and which, thanks to having a helmet on, a great belayer, and a good bit of luck I only bashed my elbows and shoulder, and hip as I 'tumbled' down. My partner took the safer, but even ballsier, route straight up above the notch, which although harder was at least protected. You have been warned. If you like to live dangerously and enjoy the frisson of excitement of having protection that's about a half-hour walk away and above a 60-foot drop then go ahead! See pic if it uploads
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: BEWARE! This is very sparely bolted up at the grassy slope where you walk across to the top section. It's also a ballsy and edgy mount up onto the equally sparsely bolted scoop where you move right to the chains. You can clip the bolt at the exit of the notch in the rock above you as you get up onto the grassy ledge, but as you move left to access the base of the scoop THAT'S IT....No bolts and nothing until you can climb the mantles above on the far left and then can move right to be above your last clip - I failed to make the very sketchy initial mount up onto the scoop, popped off and bounced down onto the grassy ledge and then straight off and over the edge of the main drop. A highly impressive and epic fall due to the length of rope that is out and which, thanks to having a helmet on, a great belayer, and a good bit of luck I only bashed my elbows and shoulder, and hip as I 'tumbled' down. My partner took the safer, but even ballsier, route straight up above the notch, which although harder was at least protected. You have been warned. If you like to live dangerously and enjoy the frisson of excitement of having protection that's about a half-hour walk away and above a 60-foot drop then go ahead! See pic if it uploads

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