Rockfax Description
One of the classics of the grade in South Wales. Superb and sustained climbing. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The best sports route of its grade in the area. Check out the old plough blade gear in the break! Climb the lower wall from the big boulder platform down and right of Plus Ca Change, heading for a prominent v-groove. Pull straight through this groove and shakeout. The next 8m is devious and continually difficult. BB over on the right.

Roy Thomas, Mick Learoyd 10/Aug/1986

Ticklists: Rockfax South Wales Top 50, Becky's ticklist.

lukehodson 02/Sep Lead O/S
with Kel Vargas
Hidden 02/Sep Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Aug TR rpt
Tom92 26/Aug Lead β
Climbingenthusiast 01/Aug Lead rpt
with Hywel
Climbingenthusiast 20/Jul Lead dog

Dropped the last move

RagingPuffin 17/Jul Lead O/S
with Trisha
dannygale 17/Jul Lead O/S
with Jon Buters
Pippa 06/Jul Lead O/S
with afrosam
afrosam 06/Jul Lead β
with Pippa
Climbingenthusiast 04/Jul Lead RP
Lilypopskeal 03/Jul Lead RP
dinodinosaur 26/Jun Lead RP

So close to the onsight, dropped it on the finishing jugs after clipping a draw into the lower off and fumbling the rope :') second attempt forgot my sequence and cruised it on the third attempt, quality route

gem_stone12 19/Jun Lead dog

Uber greasy pump fest! But very cool route. Lower off still crowded with rusty carabiners.

quiffhanger 04/Jun Lead rpt

Only route I got up this day!

with Johaness
wilchivs 02/Jun Lead rpt
with James Taylor
Climbingenthusiast 02/Jun Lead dog
Paulo803 02/May Lead dnf
Hidden 30/Apr Lead dog
Ian Bell 29/Apr Lead dog

What a great route and amazing exposure. Pumped out near the top but it'll go next time.

lizzabelle 23/Apr TR dog

nearly made it to the top with fewer rests but then arms died.

with anna
jonsey1995 22/Apr Lead O/S
with blaza1
blaza1 22/Apr Lead β

Really good

with dale, Lizzy, liam jones
Dale Comley 22/Apr Lead O/S


lizzabelle 22/Apr TR dog

first ever 6c managed to dog up :) Actually felt fine most of the way, though took a couple of rests and maybe bypassed some harder parts though. nice route but felt v high up!

joe1joe1joe2 15/Apr Lead O/S

A really nice little sustained adventure.

quiffhanger 15/Apr Lead rpt

Cold. Got a flash pump.

with Angus
dom_joyce265 15/Apr Lead RP

Got lost in the middle section. Went for a crap hold. Got laughed at by my friends. Terrible experience.

phillipwright 14/Apr Lead β

Nice sustained climb at the end with a tricky sloper about 3/4 of the way up

Saurusrock 11/Apr Lead dog

Found the exposure a bit too much so took a couple of rests. Each move was simple enough though once committing. One of the lower off bolts was overcrowded with rusty carabiners which made cleaning a bit of a faff.

kierankeavy 06/Apr Lead dog
DaveFidler 15/Oct/16 Lead β
caradogr 20/Aug/16 Lead β
Hidden 15/Aug/16 Lead RP
MathewWright1998 13/Aug/16 Lead RP
with Tomas P, Lewis Edwards
wilchivs 23/Jul/16 Lead rpt
steveanthony 19/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with John Bullock
Josh Lewis 11/Jul/16 Lead β


Tomas P 29/May/16 Lead rpt
with Tom
tommccluskey 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Tom
Ricky Rocks 14/May/16 Lead rpt
just one more 12/May/16 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey ?/May/16 Lead O/S
dshearer 03/Sep/15 Lead RP
FelixPeterken ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Felt like you could fall off anywhere on this

mdolan 16/Aug/15 Lead G/U

Second attampe. Pumpy but doable with a good burn and rests at the top.

wilchivs 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Andy Smallwood 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
James S 07/Aug/15 Lead β

Pumpy but it dishes out the good holds just when you want them! Quality climb.

with henry
hankyc 07/Aug/15 Lead rpt

suprisingly pumpy for a warmup

Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Dave Cale 02/Aug/15 Lead β

Awesome route, sustained all the way to the top.

steveanthony 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Still good

Tomas P 11/Sep/14 Lead RP

came back to do it after failing to onsight a few months back. Brilliant route!

with Aelita
i_a_coops 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Duggie
JM 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Anna Reiners
OERees 22/Aug/14 Lead rpt
mop449 19/Aug/14 Lead RP

2nd go

mop449 09/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Ross Smith
Quarryboy 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S

The best sport climb I have done in the UK thus far, feels like a classic piece of overhanging rock you would find in somewhere like Spain.

Stanners 23/Jul/14 Lead rpt

More pumpy than I remember! Must have been fit last time!

with Paul Robertson, James Rich, guy percivel, Jack Bradbrook
JamesRich 23/Jul/14 Lead dnf
Kris suriyo 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Did this route in my approach shoes

OERees 01/Jul/14 Lead β
Robheirene 21/Jun/14 Lead RP

2nd go

gingernick 03/Jun/14 Lead rpt
steveanthony 03/Jun/14 Lead β
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead β
Tim W 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
gingernick 21/May/14 Lead O/S

Repeat great climbing

with Darrell
adam 24 12/Apr/14 Lead RP
with Chris Hobbs
Tim W 30/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Alys Rook, Dave Ripley
Hidden 30/Mar/14 TR dog
Simon17 ??/2014 -

Really liked this one, bit of a strange wander across the ledge, nice above!

ollie_e 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Excellent, although the flash pumped scuppered the rest of the day.

anthony henry 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great climbing. flowed nicely

chrisscutt 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with ant, ro, oly
Hidden 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Giles Davis 02/Sep/13 TR dog
Joe Innes 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Drew
dickypips ?/Sep/13 Lead rpt

got to be up with the best of south east wales.

with gav
karoo88 31/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Ramon Marin 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

The best 6c I've done in the UK, incredible! Very soft for the grade

with viki harvey
Dan Jenkin 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Gordon Jenkin
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
EliotStephens 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Paul Robertson 17/Jul/13 Lead β

Great climbing on good holds. Well bolted but some are hard to spot.

Pathological_Climber 14/Jul/13 Lead β

Good route.

quiffhanger 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Cailean Harker 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hannah Brading 11/Jul/13 Lead RP

2nd go!

Stanners 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Lived up to my expectations! Very easy for 6c!?

with guy percivel
guy xavier percival 09/Jul/13 Lead
with rob
James Marshall 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with wendy
Garrouli 29/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Ioanna
Tomar 26/May/13 Lead β
Jay81 26/May/13 Lead β
with Tomar
valecoastclimber 17/May/13 Lead rpt
richardr 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Tim W 26/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Led twice

Hidden 26/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Jul/12 TR dnf
Hidden 26/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul/12 Lead dog
AshWH 10/Jun/12 Lead β
with Sam C
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Ollie B 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with B.Brewer
Garrouli 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead RP
Tom Heslam 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Nice and long.

with Ed Heslam
Hidden 03/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
BenNorman 31/May/11 Lead O/S

Pumpy, top headwall is great though, big holds and steep wall!

crispyboy 24/May/11 -
with Lashlin
Hidden 24/May/11 TR dog
eddy-on-the-rocks 08/May/11 Lead O/S
with James
gingernick ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Dean,Daryl
Hidden 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

First route back after a long summer off. Needless to say i got well pumped!!

with rich smith
richsmithinbristol 12/Sep/10 Lead β

Pretty good but not a total classic.

Christian Reynish 08/Aug/10 Lead dog

fell off penultimate hold:(

with stu
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/10 2nd β
Bristoldave 14/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Protheroe
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead RP
d_meacher 26/Jun/10 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead RP
gejones 08/Jun/10 Lead β
with DafSWMC
DafSWMC 08/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Gareth
Cowflinger 04/Jun/10 TR rpt
with Mike
mikeshewring 04/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2010 -
Cowflinger 19/Sep/09 TR rpt
tweedcore 23/Aug/09 Lead RP

amazing climbing could happily do it again and again

d_meacher 18/Aug/09 Lead dog
chris wyatt 01/Jul/09 Lead β

A great route- recommended

Hidden 01/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Jun/09 Lead RP
Paul Bowen 14/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Billg 14/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Bob Brewer
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead RP
summo ??/2009 -
jfreeman 08/Jul/08 Lead O/S
simonr 08/Jul/08 Lead β
Tim W 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Marina Unterfosthuber
DafSWMC 11/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Hash
Mark Walter 13/May/08 Lead dog

fell off on the final move on my first attempt, bugger! mucked up my footwork

with Alex Pickard
Billg 10/May/08 Lead rpt
DafSWMC 09/Apr/08 TR dog
guyblackwood 05/May/07 Lead RP

great climb- very tough move at the top (pumpy)

with Ricardo
Lee Proctor 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with Paul Bolger
haydng 11/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Rob
Marti999 ?/Sep/06 -
AlexRenshaw 25/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/06 Lead dog
The Jazz Butcher ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Billg ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/03 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ?/Apr/95 Lead rpt
Eugetj ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
channinga ??/1994 -
goi.ashmore 10/Sep/93 Lead O/S

No other Fr6c or E3 comes close

with Simon Coles
shoulders 14/Aug/93 -
freelunchprovider 10/Aug/86 -

1st ascent,originally trad,threads,1peg,1lump of metal from an old plough on lundy

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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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