24m.

Rockfax Description
A great route with a desperate crux. Climb up to the bolt easily, pass it directly with difficulty and then move left into the cracked groove. The gear soon runs out, so place it while you can. A large metal spike protects the moves to the belay ledge out right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Was E3 6a - Climb direct to bolt. Either;

Descend 2 metres, move left to ledge then move over bulge to a cleaned groove - 6a, or

Rock-over to the groove - 6b.

Go up groove to an iron spike. Lasso spike for protection.

M E Crook, A D Newton Mar/1985

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Slate 2018/2019

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
LucaC 6 Aug TR
Hidden 6 Aug TR
Hamish23 1 Aug Lead RP
Hidden 3 Jun Lead O/S
Olly Chapman 28 May Lead O/S
with Louise
with Louise
Mike505 22 Apr Lead O/S Took a while to suss the move above the bolts which eventually went but it felt a little bunched up for the tall, the wind added a bit of spice. The top crack / groove takes a few uninspiring brass offsets and wires with one that looks better towards the top before the metal spike. Managed to lasso the spike with a 240cm sling and a heavy screw gate. Grabbing said screwgate was tricky in the wind and involved a long reach and the use of a nut tool to get hold of the screwgate.
Took a while to suss the move above the bolts which eventually went but it felt a little bunched up for the tall, the wind added a bit of spice. The top crack / groove takes a few uninspiring brass offsets and wires with one that looks better towards the top before the metal spike. Managed to lasso the spike with a 240cm sling and a heavy screw gate. Grabbing said screwgate was tricky in the wind and involved a long reach and the use of a nut tool to get hold of the screwgate.
Archie ball ?? -
Tim Ford 24 Nov, 2018 Lead dnf well protected around the bolt but was unable to figure out the moves to get to the next flake after the bolt so ended up bailing.
with James Mead
well protected around the bolt but was unable to figure out the moves to get to the next flake after the bolt so ended up bailing.
with James Mead
Owen Davies 20 Oct, 2018 Lead G/U Foot popped on onsight, lowered off and pulled ropes, got it next go after a bit of hesitation! Great crux moves with a karate kick out left! Steady towards the top with surprisingly good runners. The wind and my lack of reach made it difficult to lasso spike!
with bo
Foot popped on onsight, lowered off and pulled ropes, got it next go after a bit of hesitation! Great crux moves with a karate kick out left! Steady towards the top with surprisingly good runners. The wind and my lack of reach made it difficult to lasso spike!
with bo
anguskille 14 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S did the 6b version, good climbing, just a bit of footwork for the crux
with Butel
did the 6b version, good climbing, just a bit of footwork for the crux
with Butel
Butel 14 Aug, 2018 Lead G/U Crucial hold on the crux snapped off on me good and proper and sent me downwards so went back and did it second go. 6b version. I would say its still a friable hold but nowhere near as brittle as it was however it is definitely a harder move now because of my destruction so have fun. Its the hold you go for to the left above bolt to rock over left.
Crucial hold on the crux snapped off on me good and proper and sent me downwards so went back and did it second go. 6b version. I would say its still a friable hold but nowhere near as brittle as it was however it is definitely a harder move now because of my destruction so have fun. Its the hold you go for to the left above bolt to rock over left.
james.slater 8 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Crux above bolt went ok, just one very sharp hold. No harder than anything on Short stories. Groove and final moves to the jug were comparatively easy and safe, even without lassooing the pipe.
Crux above bolt went ok, just one very sharp hold. No harder than anything on Short stories. Groove and final moves to the jug were comparatively easy and safe, even without lassooing the pipe.
markalmack 29 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with Tony Stone
with Tony Stone
Felix la shat 7 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt
with Maoweee
with Maoweee
Flavio 22 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Jumar Jenny
with Jumar Jenny
feilx 2 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt
with Gaetan L
with Gaetan L
Dohnny_Jawes 28 May, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 28 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Felix la shat 11 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt
BenRyle 9 Feb, 2017 Lead RP
with Kim
with Kim
Hidden 2 Jan, 2017 Lead G/U
The Grist 2 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 27 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S
James Beaumont 25 Nov, 2016 Lead β Good stuff, spent longer fiddling in gear below the lasso ledge than on the crux, crux is ard n thin but pretty obvious
with James Williams
Good stuff, spent longer fiddling in gear below the lasso ledge than on the crux, crux is ard n thin but pretty obvious
with James Williams
JamesWilliams 25 Nov, 2016 2nd rpt Warm up for short stories
Warm up for short stories
smithjake16 15 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S Didn't take a long enough sling so someone dropped over the spike whilst I hung on for dear life
Didn't take a long enough sling so someone dropped over the spike whilst I hung on for dear life
DeaNomNom 20 Oct, 2016 Lead β Once committed it's pretty fun!
Once committed it's pretty fun!
Hidden 13 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
Cassidy 2 Oct, 2016 Lead β
with Rob Sutton
with Rob Sutton
jezb1 11 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S 6a way due to onset of spitting rain, need to get back on the more direct version. Take a 16' sling for the lassoing if that's what you intend to do. Gear in the groove is there...
6a way due to onset of spitting rain, need to get back on the more direct version. Take a 16' sling for the lassoing if that's what you intend to do. Gear in the groove is there...
Chriswallis2 25 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with annaEM
with annaEM
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden 14 Oct, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 14 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
JamesWilliams 27 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S 6b way, mega thin rock up but well protected! then VS climbing above
with Bren
6b way, mega thin rock up but well protected! then VS climbing above
with Bren
Tom.Priestley 4 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S Loads of gear, did the direct version and defiantly felt more 6a than 6b. Easy to read and very positive holds.
Loads of gear, did the direct version and defiantly felt more 6a than 6b. Easy to read and very positive holds.
Scott Quinn 3 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S 6b way loads of gear on this, get on it
6b way loads of gear on this, get on it
climbingpixie 15 Aug, 2015 2nd dog Tried to lead and fell off the crux. Seconded and managed crux cleanly but then fell off the final moves up the groove ffs.
with Pagan
Tried to lead and fell off the crux. Seconded and managed crux cleanly but then fell off the final moves up the groove ffs.
with Pagan
Hidden 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Dan Geh 25 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Amazing. Managed to lasso the metal spike at the top
with Izzy, CGDStewart, AMJ098
Amazing. Managed to lasso the metal spike at the top
with Izzy, CGDStewart, AMJ098
Hidden 25 Oct, 2014 TR β
AMJ098 25 Oct, 2014 2nd O/S
with Charlie stewart, Dan Geh
with Charlie stewart, Dan Geh
Ed morris 29 Jul, 2014 Lead β
with Jerry Handren
with Jerry Handren
Hidden 15 Jul, 2014 Lead β
wolf.leeb 15 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt More decent kit than i remember. E3 6a imo.
with Alexis
More decent kit than i remember. E3 6a imo.
with Alexis
Misha 28 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Dave R, Ian W
with Dave R, Ian W
duncandarnell 18 Jun, 2014 TR O/S
Marti999 21 Apr, 2014 Lead β
centurion05 ?Jul, 2013 Lead O/S 6b way, steady to bolts then a tough move then steady but bold, there is gear but don't know the quality of the rock.
with Ben thynne, robpatchett
6b way, steady to bolts then a tough move then steady but bold, there is gear but don't know the quality of the rock.
with Ben thynne, robpatchett
shed_hed 16 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Hard crux (went straight up - 6b)! Took a while to work out the moves and commit though! Should have taken some slightly larger gear for the groove.
with Ryan Gibson
Hard crux (went straight up - 6b)! Took a while to work out the moves and commit though! Should have taken some slightly larger gear for the groove.
with Ryan Gibson
tim newton 15 Jun, 2013 Lead G/U
georgedunton 15 Jun, 2013 2nd
HAJ Francis 30 May, 2013 Lead O/S did it the 6b way, awesome route
did it the 6b way, awesome route
ksjs 17 May, 2013 Lead O/S Been on the list for a while, really enjoyed this. Bit cold (despite the date!) so not so fluid on crux (did this up then left way), which climbs superbly. The groove is steady (Fr 4 or 5) but not trivial, only reliable nut before spike is near the top. Classic moment whilst lassoing, me: "Imagine what it'd be like if you dropped the sling, crazy!" and virtually the next second I drop my sling - idiot. Magically it caught on my left heel and I was able to collect it with my right foot. I had a 120 sling and eventually got the spike but a 240 would be way easier - stick a krab on and throw over spike. More E3 than E4 probably but if you did fall in the groove not so clever. Overall, really good but steady head needed for the groove.
with Rhys
Been on the list for a while, really enjoyed this. Bit cold (despite the date!) so not so fluid on crux (did this up then left way), which climbs superbly. The groove is steady (Fr 4 or 5) but not trivial, only reliable nut before spike is near the top. Classic moment whilst lassoing, me: "Imagine what it'd be like if you dropped the sling, crazy!" and virtually the next second I drop my sling - idiot. Magically it caught on my left heel and I was able to collect it with my right foot. I had a 120 sling and eventually got the spike but a 240 would be way easier - stick a krab on and throw over spike. More E3 than E4 probably but if you did fall in the groove not so clever. Overall, really good but steady head needed for the groove.
with Rhys
dswansonlow 29 Apr, 2013 Lead dnf It got too dark to see the holds so came down off crux
with Helen
It got too dark to see the holds so came down off crux
with Helen
Nik Jennings 2 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
Rachel S 2 Feb, 2013 TR
Hidden ??, 2013 Solo O/S
Jen Crook 28 Aug, 2012 2nd
with John Houlden, robpatchett
with John Houlden, robpatchett
Hidden 28 Aug, 2012 Lead G/U
centurion05 28 Aug, 2012 2nd
ksjs 22 Jul, 2012 Lead dnf Up and down about 5 times with marginal progress each time, strong winds were just too off-putting so reversed.
with owen
Up and down about 5 times with marginal progress each time, strong winds were just too off-putting so reversed.
with owen
dicky79 7 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
with Mark Nicholson
with Mark Nicholson
metal arms 14 Apr, 2012 Lead
wolf.leeb 1 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S easier and less runnout than short stories.
easier and less runnout than short stories.
Julian Cooper 29 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Had been nervous about this route for 25 years so abbed to place some gear in the groove. But it's easy and you could place it in the lead. Did the 6b crux first go. Good route. Short stories is next.
with Ben Steel
Had been nervous about this route for 25 years so abbed to place some gear in the groove. But it's easy and you could place it in the lead. Did the 6b crux first go. Good route. Short stories is next.
with Ben Steel
mynyddresident 22 Aug, 2011 Lead β Thin pulling for few moves on crux, reasonable medium wire in groove. Played on this on a top rope several years ago when I started out.
with tony
Thin pulling for few moves on crux, reasonable medium wire in groove. Played on this on a top rope several years ago when I started out.
with tony
chris sm 5 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 9 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with AlexD
with AlexD
AlexD 9 Jul, 2011 2nd Done both ways, each felt of pretty much equal difficulty. Cool thin no hands rock up on direct way.
Done both ways, each felt of pretty much equal difficulty. Cool thin no hands rock up on direct way.
feilx 9 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with La Mont
with La Mont
scorky345 28 May, 2011 Lead
with Rich Cannel
with Rich Cannel
Franco Cookson 25 May, 2011 Lead O/S Disappointingly easy and pretty damn dangerous. The gear seems OK, but the rock is really not solid. Nice route though. Will be an interesting E5 5c when the spike falls to bits.
with Rich
Disappointingly easy and pretty damn dangerous. The gear seems OK, but the rock is really not solid. Nice route though. Will be an interesting E5 5c when the spike falls to bits.
with Rich
Dave Musgrove Jnr 1 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with Katherine Schirrmacher, Viv
with Katherine Schirrmacher, Viv
McGuinness 28 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Done the 6b way
with Ian ll-j
Done the 6b way
with Ian ll-j
Tom Livingstone 14 Mar, 2011 Lead RP
with JezH
with JezH
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
barni 10 Nov, 2010 2nd rpt
with Comrad, Luke Brooks, long jon
with Comrad, Luke Brooks, long jon
Luke Brooks 10 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
with barni
with barni
david morse 1 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S 6a/b move next to a bolt then runout VS almost to the top. Sling the spike then another 5b/c move. An interesting route!
with duncan+james
6a/b move next to a bolt then runout VS almost to the top. Sling the spike then another 5b/c move. An interesting route!
with duncan+james
farmus21 1 Nov, 2010 Lead Went down and left at the crux - felt desperate. Took a very long time to lead due to post halloween hangover, truly shocking. Sharp, stiff edges on boots and a clear head would improve things. Run out felt fine.
with Duncan
Went down and left at the crux - felt desperate. Took a very long time to lead due to post halloween hangover, truly shocking. Sharp, stiff edges on boots and a clear head would improve things. Run out felt fine.
with Duncan
nic42 9 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S
with Jack
with Jack
Hidden 9 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Lenny 26 Sep, 2010 TR dnf
with Ian W.
with Ian W.
sam820 13 Jun, 2010 2nd
with Sam
with Sam
Hidden 11 Jun, 2010 2nd
smallerrich 2 May, 2010 Lead Ground up, second go. Fell off from excess elvis leg on the crux because im a fairy : (
with samrad
Ground up, second go. Fell off from excess elvis leg on the crux because im a fairy : (
with samrad
samrad 25 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S 1 tricky move and the rest not bad. had fun slinging the iron spike at the top :-)
1 tricky move and the rest not bad. had fun slinging the iron spike at the top :-)
Mark Reeves 15 Apr, 2010 Lead
with SAF
with SAF
Hidden 15 Apr, 2010 2nd dog
barni 11 Apr, 2010 Lead rpt
Lloyders ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 17 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S Steady, good fun crux.
with Ben alsford
Steady, good fun crux.
with Ben alsford
Hidden ?Oct, 2009 Lead dog
Hidden 23 May, 2009 TR
willson 14 Apr, 2009 Lead First extreme lead. Didn't bother to lassoo
First extreme lead. Didn't bother to lassoo
Hidden 14 Apr, 2009 2nd
barni 8 Apr, 2009 2nd rpt
Hidden 22 Dec, 2008 TR
Hidden 14 Sep, 2008 TR O/S
Somerset swede basher 15 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S Went direct rather than down and left. Found it hard 6a rather than 6b. Certainly soft for E4.
with Aly Robertson
Went direct rather than down and left. Found it hard 6a rather than 6b. Certainly soft for E4.
with Aly Robertson
MikeT ?Jul, 2008 2nd dog 1 fall going direct from the bolt
with MS
1 fall going direct from the bolt
with MS
Hidden 9 Mar, 2008 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 9 Mar, 2008 Lead O/S Bit of a let down. Quite discontinuous and the move which is given 6B in the guide is soft 6B at that, more like 6a but the move is not amazing enough to make up for the rest of it.
Bit of a let down. Quite discontinuous and the move which is given 6B in the guide is soft 6B at that, more like 6a but the move is not amazing enough to make up for the rest of it.
willson ??, 2008 TR O/S Did the lower traverse into the second part.
Did the lower traverse into the second part.
Matt Vigg ??, 2008 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 -
barni 30 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
gregoritos ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with John Bull
with John Bull
jeffmcd56 ??, 2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
with Rob
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Rachael Barlow 27 Aug, 2005 2nd
with Pete Robins
with Pete Robins
Dringo ??, 2005 -
Hidden 11 Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 26 Aug, 2001 Lead O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
Hidden 16 May, 1999 TR O/S
WB 1 Nov, 1998 Lead O/S
with Paul
with Paul
MJclimb ??, 1995 -
pete johnson 15 Oct, 1994 Lead O/S
with Andy Robinson
with Andy Robinson
steve taylor ??, 1994 -
adi bryant ??, 1994 Lead O/S
tlr 23 Oct, 1993 Lead
with Adrian
with Adrian
goshawk 17 Jul, 1993 Lead
with Jim Ashton
with Jim Ashton
Rich Kirby 1 Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?May, 1993 Lead O/S
with noj
with noj
PaulHermes ??, 1993 -
Roget 6 Jun, 1992 Lead O/S indirect
with jon
indirect
with jon
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?May, 1990 2nd
with Bill Williamson
with Bill Williamson
chrisdavies ??, 1990 Lead
edwardwoodward ??, 1989 2nd
Hidden 31 May, 1988 2nd
sadams 20 Aug, 1987 Lead
with Guy Townsend
with Guy Townsend
sadams 15 Apr, 1987 Lead O/S
with Guy Townsend
with Guy Townsend
Nick Biven 11 Mar, 1987 TR
with Andrew Jackson (Jack)
with Andrew Jackson (Jack)
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 36
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set