Rockfax Description
A great route with a desperate crux. Climb up to the bolt easily, pass it directly with difficulty and then move left into the cracked groove. The gear soon runs out, so place it whilst you can. A large metal spike protects the moves to the belay ledge out right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Was E3 6a - Climb direct to bolt. Either;

Descend 2 metres, move left to ledge then move over bulge to a cleaned groove - 6a, or

Rock-over to the groove - 6b.

Go up groove to an iron spike. Lasso spike for protection.

M E Crook, A D Newton Mar/1985

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Felix la shat 07/Aug Lead rpt
with Milo
FlavioL1989 22/Jul Lead O/S
with Jenny
feilx 02/Jul Lead rpt
with Gaetan L
Hidden 28/May Lead O/S
Felix la shat 11/Apr Lead rpt
BenRyle 09/Feb Lead RP
with Kim
Hidden 02/Jan Lead G/U
The Grist 02/Jan Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 27/Dec/16 Lead O/S
James Beaumont 25/Nov/16 Lead β

Good stuff, spent longer fiddling in gear below the lasso ledge than on the crux, crux is ard n thin but pretty obvious

with James Williams
JamesWilliams 25/Nov/16 2nd rpt

Warm up for short stories

DeaNomNom 20/Oct/16 Lead β

Once committed it's pretty fun!

max_dickens 13/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Was nervous at first because it looked quite bold. Crux was safe but thin and then very steady climbing until the top move which I was very glad to have the spike for as I felt quite unbalanced. Cool route

with Dan Q
Cassidy 02/Oct/16 Lead β
with Rob Sutton
jezb1 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S

6a way due to onset of spitting rain, need to get back on the more direct version. Take a 16' sling for the lassoing if that's what you intend to do. Gear in the groove is there...

Chriswallis2 25/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 14/Oct/15 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/15 Lead O/S
JamesWilliams 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

6b way, mega thin rock up but well protected! then VS climbing above

with Bren
Tom.Priestley 04/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Loads of gear, did the direct version and defiantly felt more 6a than 6b. Easy to read and very positive holds.

Scott Quinn 03/Sep/15 Lead O/S

6b way loads of gear on this, get on it

climbingpixie 15/Aug/15 2nd dog

Tried to lead and fell off the crux. Seconded and managed crux cleanly but then fell off the final moves up the groove ffs.

with Andy
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Dan Geh 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Amazing. Managed to lasso the metal spike at the top

Hidden 25/Oct/14 TR β
AMJ098 25/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Charlie stewart, Dan Geh
Ed morris 29/Jul/14 Lead β
with Jerry Handren
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead β
wolf.leeb 15/Jul/14 Lead rpt

More decent kit than i remember. E3 6a imo.

with Alexis
Misha 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dave R, Ian W
duncandarnell 18/Jun/14 TR O/S
Marti999 21/Apr/14 Lead β
with Debbie
centurion05 ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S

6b way, steady to bolts then a tough move then steady but bold, there is gear but don't know the quality of the rock.

with Ben thynne, patch
shed_hed 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Hard crux (went straight up - 6b)! Took a while to work out the moves and commit though! Should have taken some slightly larger gear for the groove.

with Ryan Gibson
tim newton 15/Jun/13 Lead G/U
georgedunton 15/Jun/13 2nd
HAJ Francis 30/May/13 Lead O/S

did it the 6b way, awesome route

ksjs 17/May/13 Lead O/S

Been on the list for a while, really enjoyed this. Bit cold (despite the date!) so not so fluid on crux (did this up then left way), which climbs superbly. The groove is steady (Fr 4 or 5) but not trivial, only reliable nut before spike is near the top. Classic moment whilst lassoing, me: "Imagine what it'd be like if you dropped the sling, crazy!" and virtually the next second I drop my sling - idiot. Magically it caught on my left heel and I was able to collect it with my right foot. I had a 120 sling and eventually got the spike but a 240 would be way easier - stick a krab on and throw over spike. More E3 than E4 probably but if you did fall in the groove not so clever. Overall, really good but steady head needed for the groove.

with Rhys
dswansonlow 29/Apr/13 Lead dnf

It got too dark to see the holds so came down off crux

with Helen
Nik Jennings 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Rachel
Rachel S 02/Feb/13 TR
with Nik
Hidden ??/2013 Solo O/S
Jen Crook 28/Aug/12 2nd
with John Houlden, Rob Patchett
Hidden 28/Aug/12 Lead G/U
centurion05 28/Aug/12 2nd
with patch
ksjs 22/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Up and down about 5 times with marginal progress each time, strong winds were just too off-putting so reversed.

with owen
dicky79 07/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Mark Nicholson
metal arms 14/Apr/12 Lead
wolf.leeb 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S

easier and less runnout than short stories.

with nic
Julian Cooper 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Had been nervous about this route for 25 years so abbed to place some gear in the groove. But it's easy and you could place it in the lead. Did the 6b crux first go. Good route. Short stories is next.

with Ben Steel
mynyddresident 22/Aug/11 Lead β

Thin pulling for few moves on crux, reasonable medium wire in groove. Played on this on a top rope several years ago when I started out.

with tony
chris sm 05/Aug/11 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 09/Jul/11 2nd

Done both ways, each felt of pretty much equal difficulty. Cool thin no hands rock up on direct way.

with Dan
feilx 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andy L
scorky345 28/May/11 Lead
with Rich Cannel
Franco Cookson 25/May/11 Lead O/S

Disappointingly easy and pretty damn dangerous. The gear seems OK, but the rock is really not solid. Nice route though. Will be an interesting E5 5c when the spike falls to bits.

with Rich
Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Katherine Schirrmacher, Viv
McGuinness 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Done the 6b way

with Ian ll-j
Tom Livingstone 14/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
barni 10/Nov/10 2nd rpt
with Comrad, luke, long jon
Luke Brooks 10/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Barni
david morse 01/Nov/10 Lead O/S

6a/b move next to a bolt then runout VS almost to the top. Sling the spike then another 5b/c move. An interesting route!

with duncan+james
farmus21 01/Nov/10 Lead

Went down and left at the crux - felt desperate. Took a very long time to lead due to post halloween hangover, truly shocking. Sharp, stiff edges on boots and a clear head would improve things. Run out felt fine.

with Duncan
nic42 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Jack
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Lenny 26/Sep/10 TR dnf
with Ian W.
sam820 13/Jun/10 2nd
with Sam
Hidden 11/Jun/10 2nd
smallerrich 02/May/10 Lead

Ground up, second go. Fell off from excess elvis leg on the crux because im a fairy : (

with Sam
samrad 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S

1 tricky move and the rest not bad. had fun slinging the iron spike at the top :-)

Mark Reeves 15/Apr/10 Lead
with SAF
SAF 15/Apr/10 2nd dog
with Mark
barni 11/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Lloyders ??/2010 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Steady, good fun crux.

with Ben alsford
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead dog
Hidden 23/May/09 TR
willson 14/Apr/09 Lead

First extreme lead. Didn't bother to lassoo

Hidden 14/Apr/09 2nd
barni 08/Apr/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 22/Dec/08 TR
Hidden 14/Sep/08 TR O/S
Somerset swede basher 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Went direct rather than down and left. Found it hard 6a rather than 6b. Certainly soft for E4.

with Aly Robertson
MikeT ?/Jul/08 2nd dog

1 fall going direct from the bolt

with MS
Hidden 09/Mar/08 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 09/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Bit of a let down. Quite discontinuous and the move which is given 6B in the guide is soft 6B at that, more like 6a but the move is not amazing enough to make up for the rest of it.

willson ??/2008 TR O/S

Did the lower traverse into the second part.

Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
barni 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
gregoritos ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with John Bull
jeffmcd56 ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden ??/2006 -
Rachael Barlow 27/Aug/05 2nd
with Pete Robins
Dringo ??/2005 -
Hidden 11/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 26/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/2000 -
Hidden 16/May/99 TR O/S
WB 01/Nov/98 Lead O/S
with Paul
MJclimb ??/1995 -
steve taylor ??/1994 -
adi bryant ??/1994 Lead O/S
tlr 23/Oct/93 Lead
with Adrian
Rich Kirby 01/Jun/93 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/May/93 Lead O/S
with noj
PaulHermes ??/1993 -
Roget 06/Jun/92 Lead O/S


with jon
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/90 2nd
with Bill Williamson
chrisdavies ??/1990 Lead
sadams 20/Aug/87 Lead
with Guy Townsend
sadams 15/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Guy Townsend
Nick Biven 11/Mar/87 TR
with Andrew Jackson (Jack)
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 30
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set