Rockfax Description
An awesome route that utilises all the available ironmongery. Gain the chimney and a bolt. Bridge up this to reach the bars on the right. Mantel these and move up the wall passing another bar and bolt to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start below and left of bars. Climb the hanging chimney and make your way to the bars. Swing in a monkey fashion onto the bars and up onto the shorter bar. Awkward mantle, bolt and up to top. double bolt belay.

C Parkin, M Robinson 23/Apr/1992

Ticklists: Dinorwig Essentials, a State of Slate, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, 30 E-grades for my 30th birthday.

JonesE 30/Oct/16 Lead dog

This route is top end E2 now. Harder than any of the E2s I've done on slate. Multiple moves at 5c and very tenuous. Foot slipped on the micro edge before gaining the first bar so took one fall. Still a great route and worth getting on, it's just not E1 now.

richy85 30/Oct/16 2nd dog
with JonesE
steven_daniels99 21/Oct/16 Lead dog

Some rock is missing making the chimney much wider, the moves to gain the bar are a little scary above a disconcerting bolt!

saintlade 28/Aug/16 -

Just a quick note to this was fine to climb today. Awkward start I'm guessing was once a little bit easier but still E1. I wouldn't place a cam in the starting crack, quite greasy slate and there's a perfectly good nut slot just up from the 1st bolt. The bolts don't look super inspiring but the 1st bolt is unnecessary as is the 2nd bolt with some good lassooing technique with a 16ft sling to get the first of the bars.

Hidden 01/Jun/16 Lead RP
jalqazzaz 03/May/16 -

Went to give this a crack. a couple of large (new) chunks are at the base and one massive tower is resting half way up. Could do with dislodging if anyone fancies abbing in to it. Otherwise would not advise.

Hidden ??/2016 -
duncandarnell 04/Aug/14 Lead rpt
James Oakes 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S

EXTREME CAUTION REQUIRED!! The left hand pillar of the bridging start is detached and precarious, was moving around whilst I was climbing. Would seriously recommend not climbing this route until it is stabilised.

jsmcfarland 27/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Tried this shortly before it rained. Couldn't even make the first bridging move before I rested on a cam in the crack, which fell out after 3 seconds. Joss (belaying) fell flat on his arse on a big pointy rock and hurt himself, I nearly twisted an ankle in the rubble but was ok. Crap experience!

with Joss
duncandarnell 18/Jun/14 Lead rpt
greenclimb 29/May/14 Lead O/S

Stone fall to the left and unstable rock on upper left hand side of chimney .

Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
richiebongo 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Will, Gwen Thomson
kyaizawa 25/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Wicked moves but slippery and frustrating!! Hard for the grade.

lcullum7 25/Jul/13 2nd dog

Didn't have the strength left to get up the groove, perfect slot for a nutkey to stand on though! There is also a small (mobile phone sized) block loose on the arete of the upper groove

Fragmod 14/Jul/13 Lead

Took an inverted whipper above bars due to mis-read. Got it 2nd time. Solid at E1. 5c into 5c most of way!

DanielGyi 14/Jul/13 2nd dog

Sat in my harness only to rescue a cam. Managed the rest clean, but wrestled the route all the way. Absolutely bonkers climbing. Gaz took a fantastic fall on lead, bouncing off one of the bars.

Dan Geh 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Cool moves, and well protected, but wouldn't want to fall onto the bars!

tgeh 26/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with dan geh
wynaptomos 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Andy S 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Awesome climb! Mental bar action, preceded by some interesting back and footing. Owen and Dunc came up on second at the same time, making for good fun on the bars. However, this was marred slightly by an insane midge-fest. Strenuous start.

with Duncan D, Owen P
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Alexis
wolf.leeb 01/Jun/13 Lead dog

Funky route..

with Huw
air 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with James
JamesLloyd 25/May/13 2nd dog

had to use a sling to get to the second bar, way above my grade!

Will Hunt 24/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Have wanted to do this route for years. It certainly met expectations. Great fun. The top bar isn't held in by anything!

with Alison Ellwood
dswansonlow 26/Oct/12 2nd O/S

In the sleet and snow... The last bar is pretty loose, make sure you pull hard on it or not at all.

shed_hed 26/Oct/12 Lead dog

Fun, interesting, hard, weird, awkward, unique, amazing route! Slightly damp when I started. Slipped whilst contemplating the wet jug at the top of the first chimney section and fell onto a nut above the first bolt (first proper lead fall - not as scary as I was expecting). Got straight back on and finished it fine, despite light hail that started when I was on the double bars which turned full on for Dougie seconding. Dougie pointed out whilst climbing that the short spike above the two spikes is alarmingly loose...

Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Nick Nitro 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Nadeem
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
ksjs 23/May/12 Lead O/S

Found this tricky, awkward and keeps coming. Superb!

dan ely 21/May/12 Lead O/S
with tony (army)
rustaldo 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Alex
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Yong_Welsh 16/Nov/11 Lead O/S
smallerrich 14/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Not hard,just awkward and hilarious. I like!

with Greg
Misha 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S

The most unusual route I've ever done! Great fun but pretty hard all the way with the crux at the very top, solid E2 5c. Would be a spicy E3 without the top two bolts (the first bolt isn't really necessary anyway). A good lead from Phil, particularly as there was a passing shower just as he got established on the double bars.

with Phil
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
philhilo 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

E1? Seemed desperate for the grade. A lot of 5c, only the grade kept me on the top rockover. Rain whilst stood on the first bars added to the entertainment, as did I with the crowd watching. As someone else 3* but never again!

with misha
ASchwirtz 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S
centurion05 17/Aug/11 2nd
HIGHTOWER 17/Aug/11 Lead dog

Was really enjoying it, then as I was trying to stand up on the top bar, I pulled off the flake above and landed back on the bar. Pulled on the ab rope after that to get out!

with Dave Gleave
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
barni ??/2011 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
Ewan Russell 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with ed-v12
david morse 10/Jun/10 Lead O/S

best e1 on slate

with Lawrence
Alex Mason 10/May/10 Lead O/S

Odd route. tricky chimneying to begin. then a series of strange mantles on pipes. good fun.

with Laura Perry
chrisdavies 02/May/10 Lead

good fun, a must for all climbers, get yourself on it!

Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
metal arms 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
adam06 26/Apr/09 2nd

this is the first 3* route i never wanna go near again... did it in the dark. dogged a bit grr. jump for the 2nd bar was well scary!

with chris white
London Luke ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Sgt. Vest 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/08 2nd O/S
KKilroy ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Luke
Carly 14/Oct/07 Lead
with Richard
Hidden 01/May/07 Lead dog
mynyddresident ??/2007 -
with tony
Hidden ??/2006 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S

The most un-slate climbing on Slate! Completely unique and one of a kind... do it - its complete madness!

Dringo ??/2005 -
Brown ?/Feb/03 Lead O/S
with Alex
MjrTom ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Dave
goi.ashmore 05/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 37
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set