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Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Lundy

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FerClimbs 17 Sep Show βeta
βeta: The start is very hard. Not for the low E1 climber.
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βeta: The start is very hard. Not for the low E1 climber.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 18 Sep AltLd
FerClimbs 15 Sep 2nd dog Weirdest route of the weekend. Getting into the right facing corner is seriously hard as there is not footholds and the wall is wet (it is next to the sea so I guess it is always wet!). P2 is good, more like a standard E1.
Weirdest route of the weekend. Getting into the right facing corner is seriously hard as there is not footholds and the wall is wet (it is next to the sea so I guess it is always wet!). P2 is good, more like a standard E1.
Glen Stidever 15 Sep Lead O/S OMG the start to pitch 1 is hard and slightly wet. E2 5c for me!
OMG the start to pitch 1 is hard and slightly wet. E2 5c for me!
Hidden 10 Sep, 2018 2nd
Dominic Acland 10 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
mapperley samurai 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P2. Pretty straight forward at 5b. P1 seemed harder/bolder. Also - when it says 'non-tidal' ledge this does not mean that a huge wave won't go right up and over you :(
with Blake
Lead P2. Pretty straight forward at 5b. P1 seemed harder/bolder. Also - when it says 'non-tidal' ledge this does not mean that a huge wave won't go right up and over you :(
with Blake
Graeme Hammond 8 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Go big or go home! We sneaked onto this amazing route behind the backs of the weather gods and it was all the sweater for it. I had failed to get to try this route on the last trip and it looked to be getting away again. It was still raining at 10am on the last full day, but we left the camp-site at around 12pm and optimistically abseiled down to find dry rock :) I led the intricate and brilliant pitch 1 requiring good route finding and some boldness with only just enough gear (lots of micro nuts) reaching the belay before a quick drenching downpour looked to have spoilt the fun (though it made the rock super slippery and made for a desperate 2nd and a good pendulum fall for Jack). But the sun came out and dried the rock quickly as we hung out at the belay (should have waited for it to dry a bit for jack on P1) which was just as well as retreat would have involved a swim by now as the tide came in rapidly. P2 was equally good but not without drama as Jack nearly took a fall as a hold broke pulling through the first overhang breaking my enjoyment of the crashing waves below but all was OK and using some cat like reactions he rapidly reversed down and without even the briefest pause carried on like nothing had happened. The 2nd pitch was a joy to 2nd (and equally as good) and realise a route I had dreamed of doing for over 5 years (even before the last trip) was even better than expected. Approach faff with joining abseil ropes (didn't have a 90m abseil rope) down the vegetated loose bank of doom and a proper abseil added to the experience though i bet it would have been different if we had needed to jug back out! In summery a top quality route and one of the best E1s around, which felt high in the grade.
with Jack
Go big or go home! We sneaked onto this amazing route behind the backs of the weather gods and it was all the sweater for it. I had failed to get to try this route on the last trip and it looked to be getting away again. It was still raining at 10am on the last full day, but we left the camp-site at around 12pm and optimistically abseiled down to find dry rock :) I led the intricate and brilliant pitch 1 requiring good route finding and some boldness with only just enough gear (lots of micro nuts) reaching the belay before a quick drenching downpour looked to have spoilt the fun (though it made the rock super slippery and made for a desperate 2nd and a good pendulum fall for Jack). But the sun came out and dried the rock quickly as we hung out at the belay (should have waited for it to dry a bit for jack on P1) which was just as well as retreat would have involved a swim by now as the tide came in rapidly. P2 was equally good but not without drama as Jack nearly took a fall as a hold broke pulling through the first overhang breaking my enjoyment of the crashing waves below but all was OK and using some cat like reactions he rapidly reversed down and without even the briefest pause carried on like nothing had happened. The 2nd pitch was a joy to 2nd (and equally as good) and realise a route I had dreamed of doing for over 5 years (even before the last trip) was even better than expected. Approach faff with joining abseil ropes (didn't have a 90m abseil rope) down the vegetated loose bank of doom and a proper abseil added to the experience though i bet it would have been different if we had needed to jug back out! In summery a top quality route and one of the best E1s around, which felt high in the grade.
with Jack
Dave Rumney 7 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S on the out tide. 1st pitch was a bit greasy, lots of small gear to protect. Belay at the top of the 1st pitch wasn't great. Heavy shower hit on the top-out for the full experience :)
with Stewart Leitch
on the out tide. 1st pitch was a bit greasy, lots of small gear to protect. Belay at the top of the 1st pitch wasn't great. Heavy shower hit on the top-out for the full experience :)
with Stewart Leitch
gjd 1 Sep, 2017 AltLd led p1
with Pete Sterling
led p1
with Pete Sterling
Jack2222 ?Sep, 2017 -
Pippa 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with afrosam, RB1
with afrosam, RB1
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
afrosam 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Pippa, RB1
with Pippa, RB1
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 AltLd
petecallaghan 7 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S Scary, wet and difficult. Did not feel remotely like E1. Could not climb the greasy crack indicated by the topo, but the rightward traverse was very difficult: felt harder than 5c to me. Spent a long time watching the tide cut off our retreat, evaluating escape options and worrying about my ability to safely climb a traverse that challenged Scott... Was very relieved to leave the first stance in the dry, and even more relieved to reach the start of P2.
with Borden
Scary, wet and difficult. Did not feel remotely like E1. Could not climb the greasy crack indicated by the topo, but the rightward traverse was very difficult: felt harder than 5c to me. Spent a long time watching the tide cut off our retreat, evaluating escape options and worrying about my ability to safely climb a traverse that challenged Scott... Was very relieved to leave the first stance in the dry, and even more relieved to reach the start of P2.
with Borden
Borden 7 Sep, 2016 Lead 1st pitch wet/rubbish; second pitch fantastic
1st pitch wet/rubbish; second pitch fantastic
Hidden 7 Sep, 2016 AltLd dnf
Neil McA 6 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S Hot! While they led pitch 1 the heat tempted me to swim round into the back of Deep Zawn to check out Quatermass for tomorrow. When tomorrow cam we looked down off the route at huge seals with pups in the zawn and realised my naked swim my not have been such a good idea.
with James Hall, Nick Wallace
Hot! While they led pitch 1 the heat tempted me to swim round into the back of Deep Zawn to check out Quatermass for tomorrow. When tomorrow cam we looked down off the route at huge seals with pups in the zawn and realised my naked swim my not have been such a good idea.
with James Hall, Nick Wallace
jsmcfarland 1 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Tim led the first (harder, but not as good in my opinion) pitch which had a greasy crux getting around the bulge/corner onto the face that was totally nails. I didn't want to commit to it so downclimbed/traversed a little to find a way around that ended up being about 5c, so probably just as hard! I led the 2nd pitch which starts pretty runout with poor gear, but there is loads below and around the roof's. Brilliant moves through these lead to a absolutely fantastic wall above. Loved this route!! ****
Tim led the first (harder, but not as good in my opinion) pitch which had a greasy crux getting around the bulge/corner onto the face that was totally nails. I didn't want to commit to it so downclimbed/traversed a little to find a way around that ended up being about 5c, so probably just as hard! I led the 2nd pitch which starts pretty runout with poor gear, but there is loads below and around the roof's. Brilliant moves through these lead to a absolutely fantastic wall above. Loved this route!! ****
Hidden 1 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Nick Wallis ?Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
with James Hall, Neil McAdie
with James Hall, Neil McAdie
Bloke on a Rope 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 1, feels very serious coz you can't see what your getting into as it's round the corner, maybe just as well coz it's blooming stiff and quite sustained me calves were burning! Pitch 2 is much more civilised.
Lead pitch 1, feels very serious coz you can't see what your getting into as it's round the corner, maybe just as well coz it's blooming stiff and quite sustained me calves were burning! Pitch 2 is much more civilised.
Climbster 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S P2 - 5b
with MoB, Bloke on a Rope
P2 - 5b
with MoB, Bloke on a Rope
timtimpeggy ?Aug, 2015 -
with Ev
with Ev
Hoyes 19 Sep, 2014 2nd dog Careful ropework required if climbing in a three.
Careful ropework required if climbing in a three.
Lumbering Oaf 19 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S A great route
with Hoyes, Batt
A great route
with Hoyes, Batt
Batt 19 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Lead as one. Awesome. Lovely balance stuff. Poorly protected for 2 seconds, should have got s1 to unclip the traversing rope for s2...
Lead as one. Awesome. Lovely balance stuff. Poorly protected for 2 seconds, should have got s1 to unclip the traversing rope for s2...
rd20 15 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
cymjt 15 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Definitely best done in a oner!
Definitely best done in a oner!
Tom Livingstone 15 Sep, 2014 2nd β
3 Names 15 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Patrick Goodwin, Robert Dufton
with Patrick Goodwin, Robert Dufton
Nick Russell 9 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S I led P2, the easier of the two. Really good, contrasting pitches in an imposing setting, well worth 3*
I led P2, the easier of the two. Really good, contrasting pitches in an imposing setting, well worth 3*
Alex Winter 9 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Brilliant. Led first pitch, which felt a bit serious.
with Nick
Brilliant. Led first pitch, which felt a bit serious.
with Nick
Hidden 9 Sep, 2014 AltLd dnf
alastairbegley 9 Sep, 2014 AltLd dnf Started along P1, took a nasty fall in the corner due to the route being very wet and then backed off and escaped the crag.
with twem
Started along P1, took a nasty fall in the corner due to the route being very wet and then backed off and escaped the crag.
with twem
pimpy 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S led 1st pitch, tricky start
with CalumC
led 1st pitch, tricky start
with CalumC
burto 6 Sep, 2014 2nd
with tom powell
with tom powell
ferdia 6 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Hertha Taverner-Wood
with Hertha Taverner-Wood
Hidden ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Mr Powly ?Sep, 2014 Lead as one pitch
with burto
as one pitch
with burto
Mr Powly ?Sep, 2014 Lead as one pitch
with burto
as one pitch
with burto
Marti999 18 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Jonny Logan, Guy Buckingham
with Jonny Logan, Guy Buckingham
Hidden 17 Aug, 2014 -
Kevster 13 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S As 1 pitch
As 1 pitch
Hidden 13 Sep, 2012 2nd
eduardo 13 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S Didn't fancy leading p2
with Misha
Didn't fancy leading p2
with Misha
Misha 13 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S A great route, one of the best E1s I've done. We came back for a rematch at low tide and with calmish seas after being put off the route by a raging sea the day before. Hard for E1, particularly getting into and going up the corner. I actually went to the end of the corner, then realised that was the E3 line so had to climb back down a bit. An interesting line. P1 reminiscent of Millstone - blocky holds, decent friction and dark brown rock colour. Did it in 2 pitches. Ed didn't fancy P2 so I led it as well. Nicely varied - slab, crack and two overhangs, tho they weren't hard to get round (some 5b moves on the second one).
with eduardo
A great route, one of the best E1s I've done. We came back for a rematch at low tide and with calmish seas after being put off the route by a raging sea the day before. Hard for E1, particularly getting into and going up the corner. I actually went to the end of the corner, then realised that was the E3 line so had to climb back down a bit. An interesting line. P1 reminiscent of Millstone - blocky holds, decent friction and dark brown rock colour. Did it in 2 pitches. Ed didn't fancy P2 so I led it as well. Nicely varied - slab, crack and two overhangs, tho they weren't hard to get round (some 5b moves on the second one).
with eduardo
timtimpeggy ?Aug, 2012 -
with Ev
with Ev
Hidden 31 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 15 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 14 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead Pitch two. (5b) very enjoyable climbing once past the inital groove (finished ina fantastic sunset) attempted it three times, first - too greasy, second - nearly washed off the belay ledge (everything totaly soaked and salty) and thirdly the waves only just love enough not to get washed off again.
with remus
Lead Pitch two. (5b) very enjoyable climbing once past the inital groove (finished ina fantastic sunset) attempted it three times, first - too greasy, second - nearly washed off the belay ledge (everything totaly soaked and salty) and thirdly the waves only just love enough not to get washed off again.
with remus
dicky79 15 Sep, 2009 AltLd P1
with Mark Nicholson
P1
with Mark Nicholson
Hidden 7 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Joris.Roulleau ?Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
with Chris Miller
with Chris Miller
Dale ?Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S my favourite route of the year. got down there was very wet, waited around for hour to dry. I got the first pitch start was wet took a while 2 get round the roof the traverse was thrilling. Enjoyed how the rock changed on Pitch 2, good climbing but not as good as pitch 1
with tom
my favourite route of the year. got down there was very wet, waited around for hour to dry. I got the first pitch start was wet took a while 2 get round the roof the traverse was thrilling. Enjoyed how the rock changed on Pitch 2, good climbing but not as good as pitch 1
with tom
crossdressingrodney 11 Aug, 2009 2nd dnf climbingpixie led the first pitch. Pagan started the second but found a combination of loose rock, guano and lichen. We escaped up the descent route.
with Pagan
climbingpixie led the first pitch. Pagan started the second but found a combination of loose rock, guano and lichen. We escaped up the descent route.
with Pagan
Hidden 14 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
chris wyatt 14 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S An almost epic due to swell and fast incoming tide.
An almost epic due to swell and fast incoming tide.
Different Steve ?Aug, 2004 - Led P2
Led P2
cem 17 Sep, 2001 AltLd O/S Led p2
with Chris Thorpe
Led p2
with Chris Thorpe
Hidden ?Sep, 2001 Lead O/S
pauldrew ?Sep, 2001 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 2001 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ?Aug, 1998 AltLd Excellent.
with Rik Meek
Excellent.
with Rik Meek
Pete Nugent 29 Aug, 1996 AltLd Given E1, 5b,5a at the time. I led p1 5b
with Ian Makin
Given E1, 5b,5a at the time. I led p1 5b
with Ian Makin
Martin Bennett 22 Aug, 1995 - After a 3 day siege!
with Paul Taylor
After a 3 day siege!
with Paul Taylor
eroica64 ?Sep, 1993 2nd
Tom V ?Aug, 1986 -
RichardMc 6 Sep, 1983 Lead O/S
with John Evans
with John Evans
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 19
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set