Rockfax Description
Phenomenal climbing on both pitches mark this route out as one of Britain's best. Although the start is bold the meat of the difficult climbing is reasonably protected. Start on huge boulders 7m right of Eroica at a vague line of weakness below the left side of a narrow ledge at 8m.
1) 6a, 48m. Step up off a boulder onto the wall and climb boldly to the left end of a ledge at 8m. Climb the wall via cracks to a flake and follow it leftwards to a peg in two short left to right-leaning cracks. Traverse left for 4m and make fingery moves up to the line of overhangs above. Follow a steep flake and crack diagonally rightwards to its end and climb the thin crack in the wall above with difficulty to the second stance of Eroica.
2) 5c, 22m. Traverse left into the base of the next corner and climb to where it starts to overhang. Make forceful moves up the steep section to an easing as the corner kicks back. Finish up the wall above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Good E4s, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings.

Stephen Horne - Rockfax 25/Aug/17 Lead G/U

Slipped off after the crux =[

with Ed Bulman
Graham Atkins 22/Jul/17 2nd
Katekeltie 08/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Totally fantastic climbing the whole way. Doesn't let up at all.

Duncan Campbell 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S

World class. Was on it for an hour and a half, one of my most intense leads to date - it just keeps on coming! The start is bold and tricky but not too bad, I raced up it as I feared the sun was coming round. From the first bit of kit the difficulty begins to ramp up. Very little easy climbing for the whole pitch but enough rests and half rests to keep you pushing on. That top crack has a brilliant sequence but I was ready for the belay at this point. Getting to the belay was a mixture of pure elation and a good dose of "thank fuck!" Will be back for black magic (but maybe not too soon!) Agree with Mason's 7a/+ French grade. Didn't do the top pitch as Kate wasn't keen to lead it and I had developed a terrible thirst for a beer. Imagine when I come back for BM I'll come with someone keen for darkinbad so will do it then.

Hidden 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
ferdia 29/May/17 AltLd O/S

two great pitches. led p2. pitch one had lots of great moves topped by a brilliant last move to jugs.

burto 29/May/17 AltLd
with ferdia
Hidden 27/May/17 AltLd O/S
morganator 18/May/17 AltLd O/S

As good as Black Magic ie bloody brilliant. Once again no gear for the first few metres but not too hard.The first pitch is possibly a fraction easier than BM but the second pitch is pretty hard too (definitely harder than BMs top pitch). I'd give the top pitch E3 6a (really well protected). The wall comes into sun from 5pm.

with Keita Kurakami
JendeHoxar 14/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Flavio
The Grist 14/Apr/17 2nd O/S

Seconded Tom on the first (main) pitch. It was late in the day and damp conditions with on/off drizzle. Great attempt by Tom. He fell from the last hard move up the last crack. Fantastic route. One to come back and lead one day......perhaps. We finished up the top pitch of Eroica in the dark (and rain). Pretty epic experience even on second.

Flavio 14/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, can't believe how perfectly well we timed this. After Eroica it started raining enough to get everything wet and we were ready to leave. Decided to sit out 2 sets of drizzle and committed on a half decent weather window expecting to retreat and sacrifice gear. Magical climbing while scanning the horizon anticipating the next set. The Grist almost sandbagged me into no mans land. Topped out before everything got wet again! High risk, high reward!

brianhall16 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S


with Helen Wallace
Ellis Bird ?/May/16 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2016 -
LRob ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
datoon 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
mattnuttall 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead p1... I did this and black magic 21 years ago... So this was onsight given couldn't remember a thing about it apart from amazing! Touch and go... Am not quite as fit at 40 as I was at 19.

Ed Babs 02/Aug/15 Lead G/U

Awesome route and a dream tick. Foot slipped just before the crux, pulled the ropes and clean next go. P1 just keeps on coming - I didn't have much left to give on the final crack leading to the belay. I was steeled for P2 to be more of the same, but fortunately the difficulty does relent. Chuffed.

with AlexD
AlexD 02/Aug/15 2nd β

P1 was a tough fight. And chucking rain at us on p2 was a cheap trick born of desperation. But it only steeled our resolve, and we pushed on to emerge victorious. Darkinbad defeated!

with Ed
Adam Booth 20/Jul/15 Lead G/U

Amazing! Pretty steady and mostly very good gear. Took a good lob with an annoying foot slip at the crux.

Ed Booth 20/Jul/15 2nd O/S
pete johnson 18/Jul/15 AltLd dog

Fell off both pitches! Scary start then well protected. Tough. Fantastic.

Russell Blackaller 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Glad to finally do this beauty.

with Tom N
philhilo 28/Jun/15 2nd

OMG.....what a route! Great lead from Misha, falling from 1st section did not bare thinking about. 1st pitch sublime sustained technical 5c/6a, very happy to get this clean. Second pitch total contrast powerful overhang, fell off after wasting energy retrieving stuck nut and sorting out sequence. One of the best routes I have done in nearly 40 years of climbing.

with misha
Misha 28/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Rapid gasps of fear, lost amongst the roar of the sea. Can't reverse the moves, too precarious. Sharp angled back breaker of a boulder, lurking below, waiting for its prey. The dark oppressive wall, uncaring, smirking. It knows it will outlast me, now more than ever. Why, just why?! Dab some chalk on the layaway. Makes it look better, standing out from the blankness that surrounds it. Rationalise the situation, or try to. Feet on, in balance, handholds not great but good enough to shake out. Next few moves look tricky but I'm not going anywhere. Not up, not down and the latter is all that matters right now. Relax the grip. Breathe. A crimp! I can do crimps, I understand them in their simplicity, they are my friends, a friendship built on countless limestone routes. This isn't limestone though, this is - I don't know what the hell this is, Phil said it's pillow lava and now I've made my bed and I must lie in it. That's it, a lie, it's all a lie! The guide book said bold to the ledge at eight metres, why couldn't it just say unprotected, fluffable and scary? Littlejohn must have had gonads the size of watermelons. Breathe. Focus. No place for a foot to pop. Try to appear calm and collected, out of spotting range now, wouldn't want Phil getting too concerned. Next move doesn't look too bad. More chalk, the fairy dust of confidence. The mind clears. Make the move, over in a flash. Repeat... Better holds now and then the ledge, sloping of course. Finger ledges up the sidewall, a crack, gear! I will live to tell the tale on Facebook after all. Can afford to look around and take in the surroundings now. The face above is welcoming, its cracks promising safe conduct through a labyrinth to be unravelled, the line snaking around in search of features and challenge. The rock is lighter in colour and the afternoon sun is pulling round and burning off the clouds, promising a brighter day to erase the dark and bad memories of an experience not to be repeated any time soon. Or at least not until the rat starts gnawing again...

with Phil
dbrooks 21/Mar/15 2nd dog

cool to get on a route that I'm unlikely to ever be able to climb... really good effort from Dave... v close

with Dr Dave
Bristoldave 21/Mar/15 Lead dog

P1 only. Was really close but came off crux. Bit gutting after 2 1/2 hours of effort. It's an amazing route.

with Derwood
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd O/S
Ed morris 04/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. P1 was a real slow train with tricky route finding at the end of the traverse, P2 is immaculate and compliments it well. Brilliant climbing and positions. One to remember.

with Colin
JBO 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climbing which flows perfectly, gear and rests appear just as you really need them - there is a lot of hard climbing.

quiffhanger 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S

So glad I managed so summon up the courage for the scary start. Immaculate sustained climbing. First pitch one of the best I've ever done, though I found the second just as hard, if safer. Topped out 5mins before getting drenched by a squall. Raced there straight after doing Il Duce - memorable day!

theotherpetehill 08/Aug/14 2nd

Seconded P1 clean and P2 in the rain, less clean. Brilliant climbing.

with Ross McKerchar
malx ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
bigie bob 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tim newton 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. Unchalked and straight after 7 hours of driving without a warm up route. Found it pretty tricky in places, especially finding the best holds up after the traverse and then randomly got massive leg shake on the second pitch, thought I was going to fall off that too. Glad to have done it, might have a few years break before I go back for black magic though.

markalmack 28/May/14 AltLd O/S

lead p1. What an outstanding route. Probably the best i have ever climbed. unrelenting. just perfect. emotional.

with james marjot
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
climbingsheep 20/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead the 2nd pitch. What an amazing route

with Anna Duckett, Mike Watson
Hidden 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Anna duckett ?/Aug/13 2nd
with Sam Williams, Mike Watson
alice fuller ?/Mar/13 2nd dog
with woj
kingholmesy ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. One of the best routes I've done.

Hidden 10/Aug/12 2nd
pezzerrr 10/Aug/12 AltLd dnf

Lead P1, finished up Eroica.

Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 AltLd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led both pitches.

with Chris Rees
Pippa 03/Jul/11 2nd
with Jon
Hidden 03/Jun/11 AltLd
tuftynick 03/Jun/11 AltLd rpt

lead pitch 2

datoon 31/May/11 AltLd
with K
khawk 31/May/11 AltLd
with DT
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead dog
feilx 07/Aug/10 Lead dnf
with Heather
Alex Mason 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Fucking yeeda! High on the wishlist. The main pitch is just phoenomenal. The bold start isnt to bad (5c), then lots of brilliant 5b-6a climbing between great gear. Memorable moves for a long pitch. 7a/+.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. Just seconding the first pitch was super inspiring! but 2nd pitch is not without its charms, fantastic exposure and one quite hard move (probably 6a)

Toby Dunn 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
mgeek 12/Jul/10 Lead β

Ally lead this route & tony lead black magic. They suggested I combined start of black magic with darkinbad finnish, thus making a more sustained pitch. I was on feet for far too long, I hate slabs and I have the most pathetic sport climbing legs in the world! felt miserable, sh*&tin maself and even wished I wasn't there at one point. Awesome route and well worth 5*'s.

with ally swinton, Tony Stone
Ally Baba 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Great technical slab route.

with Tony Stone, Mcgeek
Justin T 12/Jun/10 2nd dog

Total epic!

John Mcshea 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
dan gibson 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

one of the best routes iv'e done in the uk

with michael porter
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2008 AltLd rpt

Led second pitch

with Dave Ferguson
Ricky Rocks ?/Aug/06 2nd O/S
beanfingers 18/Jun/06 2nd dog

felix was very close to getting this clean, but feel on the crux. i did the same on second. didnt do the second pitch but escaped up eroica.

with felix
feilx 18/Jun/06 Lead dog

Wow. Stunning line. Too hard for me though, lobbed off on the first pitch and wussed out on the second. I'll be back when I am stronger!

with Crazy Tom
Davros the Psyched ??/2005 Lead O/S

4 stars

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Tidy
Dave Musgrove Jnr 25/Jul/01 Lead O/S

Completely amazing, one of the very best routes in Britain. Second pitch is pretty taxing too

with Viv
sadams 12/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
Tim M ??/2000 2nd
ecowaller ??/2000 Lead O/S

It brings a tear to my eye...perfect route, perfect day, flashed

with Wendy Sampson
goi.ashmore 05/Aug/99 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 only as there was an epic downpower and we had to aid out up Eroica!

with Roy Thomas
duncan 14/Aug/97 2nd
with Hugo Glover
clark alston ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S


with Steven Martin
Roget 18/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with jon
phardman ??/1997 -
duncan ?/Jun/96 Lead G/U
with Dan Donovan
Eduardo Martinez 04/Aug/95 Lead O/S

Good pro apart from first the beginning. Belay poor.

Hidden ?/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1995 2nd O/S

P1 only

with Dave Henderson
duncan ?/Oct/94 Lead dog

3rd day on wearing floppy resoled Lasers, ran out of gas with my hands on finishing jugs.

with Dan Donovan
mattnuttall 20/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 07/Aug/93 Lead
with Phil Baker
Hidden 31/Jul/93 Lead dog
Hidden 31/Jul/93 Lead O/S
whispering nic 25/May/92 AltLd O/S
with Graham Iles
Glenn Sutcliffe 26/May/91 -
with keefe
keefe 26/May/91 -
Hidden ??/1991 2nd
Mark Kemball ??/1990 2nd
with John Jefferies, Chris Calow
ukb & bmc shark 13/Sep/89 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch

with Stu Bolton
Bruce Kerr 19/Jul/89 AltLd
with Keith Turton
frank ramsay ?/Apr/89 AltLd
with crispin waddy
Johnny Baker ?/Jun/88 Lead
with Nigel Birtwell
Paul Clarke ??/1988 AltLd

Led p1

with Nick Dalzell
Hidden 18/Aug/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/87 -
charlesmfrench ??/1986 2nd
with Ian Milne
Mike Owen 25/Jul/85 Lead O/S
with Simon King
Steve Long ??/1985 Lead
Hidden ??/1973 -
53 users have this on their wishlist
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 35
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set