Rockfax Description
IV, 1000m, 6 - hours. Although this is the original line and a worthwhile route in itself, it is much less climbed than the direct start.
Approach - From the Refuge d'Argentière, descend back to the Glacier d'Argentière and head directly to the foot of the Tournier Spur. All the routes are reached from here (don't try to go directly to the Lagarde, there is a large crevasse field barring it).
1) Climb directly up steep snowy mixed ground to reach the snowfield.
2) Follow the snowfield up and left to reach a ledge system leading through the rock band on the left.
3) Traverse left across a rock rib and then a snowfield, followed by another rock rib and another snowfield to reach mixed ground on the right of the main couloir.
4) Climb up and left across the mixed ground to reach the couloir.
5) As for the Direct. Follow the couloir for 300m of 50 degree snow. For the final 100m to the top it steepens to around 65 degrees and tackles mixed ground to reach the final snow ridge on the Tournier Spur. Follow this to the summit of Les Droites.
Descent - Descend the south face of Les Droites into the Talèfre Basin. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
IV 3

Bobi Arsandaux & Jacques Lagarde, 131/7/1930

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