Rockfax Description
V, 1200m, 2 days. A toughie and just maybe the overall toughest route in this book, with its combination of difficult rock and difficult ice climbing. The length of the route also means that a bivouac is almost inevitable, adding to the weight of your bag and making life even trickier! Start at the toe of the buttress.
Approach - From the Refuge d'Argentière, descend back to the Glacier d'Argentière and head directly to the foot of the Tournier Spur. All the routes are reached from here.
1) 5a. Follow the right-leaning chimney (5a) to a long, horizontal ledge and follow this rightwards for 30m to a vague ramp leading back left.
2) 5c. Climb this easily to where it begins to overhang. Pull through the overhang (5c) and follow easier, blocky ground to the ridge crest.
3) 5a. Continue up the ridge crest over blocky ground (4c - 5a) for 4 pitches to where the ridge hits a steep, 10m high grey wall shortly after a wide chimney. Make a rising 20m traverse rightwards then rejoin the ridge by climbing a 20m chimney (4c).
4) 5a. Follow the ridge crest directly (5a), making short detours off to each side, to reach the foot of an overhanging face.
5) 5c. Step onto the left side of the ridge and to climb a corner in two pitches (4c then 5c) to regain the ridge crest.
6) Continue along the ridge to a steep buttress split by a wide crack. Move right around this and then return to the ridge crest.
7) Follow this to the brèche at 3407m, moving right around any difficulties.
From the brèche, follow the Tournier Spur to the summit.
Descent - Descend the south face of Les Droites into the Talèfre Basin. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Also called Northeast Spur Direct.

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50.

Hidden 16/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden 04/Sep/10 AltLd dnf
Matt Bennett 02/Sep/10 AltLd dnf

Abbed of Breche, ran out of gas! Only bought enough for a single bivi, massive oversight. Superb route thou, wish i got to use the mixed gear we lugged up the direct start!

with Alalister Gurney
Ally Baba 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S


with Kim
Pete Graham ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Howard Lawledge
Hidden 28/Jul/10 -
Hidden 22/Sep/09 AltLd
michaelja ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S

Start at Argentiere Refuge. 600 m of rock climbing up to 5b french. Bivac at the "castle". 600 m ice and snow and mixed the next day up to 80 degrees angle. Followed by appr. 10 abseils 100 m to the right of the exit of route. Followed by downclimbing steep snowgully and a complicated glacier crossing to the Couvercle hut.

Hidden ?/Jul/94 AltLd
mark-abz ?/Aug/81 AltLd
with Walter P
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