Rockfax Description
Another classic gully climb with some excellent ice on the first two pitches
1) 5, 45m. Climb the steep ice-pitch to the snow ledge and belay on the left
2) 4, 35m. Climb the icefall to the easing in angle, exit right onto the snow slope
3) 1, 120m. Easily up the snow to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

jamieevans 20/Jan Lead

Walked over from ogwen with Nick and Andy. Getting down to crag was a bit awkward but worth it for easy walk out when we finished. Turf frozen throughout. First pitch has a thin steep awkward move but ice was strong and well bonded to the rock. Last few pitches had good ice and turf sections and powder. Happy birthday Andy :-)

Hidden 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Palindrome 30/Mar/13 2nd O/S

Bit thin on the first pitch making it more challenging. Lovely second pitch with an easy finish.

Hidden 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
kenneM 22/Jan/13 AltLd

Climbed the ice pitches of pyramid gully and Carl finished up the mixed arĂȘte on the right. Far better than battle the powder slopes higher up. I've was in good nick.

with Carl Davies
Hidden ??/2012 -
HimTiggins 09/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Bart
tebs 09/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Black ladders lived up to its name apart from a frosting on the top 100metres or so, so decided to climb this, ended up being really good. Nice steep but short section on 1st pitch, good 2nd pitch, with a bomber belay at the top despite the guidebooks warning! From this belay, directly above the 2nd steepening, we climbed an obvious mixed groove in the buttress directly above. It seemed quite an obvious direct way to go and certainly more interesting than the snow plod to the top. I think this is Pyramid Arete V 6.

with Tim
Misha 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Had hoped to do Gallipolli but it wasn't looking wintery (just frosty frozen turf) and the ice pitch at the start was missing, so left it for a better day. Pyramid Gully proved to be a good choice. I led P1, which featured dinnerplating ice on the steep section (was trying to create my own axe placements) and generally good footholds. The real challenge was the exit from the steep section as this was pretty thin and the ice was brittle. A bit worrying until I got a very good hook in a crack, which also took a number 1 nut. Very different and, from what I recall, harder than when I did it with Tom last March. Good 4 or easy 5. Phil led P4 up friendlier angled, generally plastic ice, good 3 or easy 4. Followed Adam and Tom, who had a bit more time and did a couple of mixed pitches to the right of the finishing slog. Only started the route at 2.15, topped out at 5.

with Phil
philhilo 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Went to do Gallipoli but not in winter nick. Misha did 1st pitch, steep and narrow at top.I did 2nd pitch - 1st time on Vipers, really good 4. Top pitch long plod up icy steps and neve.Topped out 5pm in dark.

with misha
Adam Booth 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Finished up a buttress right of the gully after the first two pitches. Gave 2 more pitches of sustained mixed climbing rather than plodding up the rest of the gully which looked pretty easy from there on. Definitely recommended!

with Tom Jumar
Andrew Sloan 07/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Started up iced slabs of Eastern gully inadvertantly in the mist and had to traverse back over to initial ice pillar. Ice was brittle and at top of the pillar a bit rotten which made the final moves up quite delicate. Really nice route despite this. I'd give first steep ice pitch scottish V.

with Steve Grove
wolf.leeb 06/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

P1 had fallen apart at top of steep section (scary), P2 was in great condition and was a pleasure.

with nic
mynyddresident 05/Jan/11 AltLd
with wolf
Owain Llewelyn 05/Jan/11 Lead

Two cracking ice pitches, the crag to ourselves and blue skies...ace.

with Dad
Luke Brooks ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jim Walton 15/Dec/10 Solo O/S

Short first two pitches. Nice.

ian1234567 13/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
9fingerjon 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Matt G
Hidden 11/Mar/10 AltLd
Hidden 08/Mar/10 Lead
philboy 07/Mar/10 AltLd
with will
Misha 07/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Got to the crag quite late after walking in from Ogwen via a route in Cwm Lloer, so decided to do something quick and easy. Tom led first pitch, which had a short steep step. I did the second pitch, which had a longer but easier angled ice section. Would have been very nice if it hadn't been so chopped up. Tom led through up the easy snow and we moved together for a bit to get to the top. Nice enough route for a short outing.

with Tom
uphillnow 06/Mar/10 AltLd


jcurley 03/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Excellent route, conditions and curry. Lead pitch 2

Hidden ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Feb/10 AltLd
MikeLell 25/Feb/10 Solo

Climbed down easy top section and then back up to the plateau. Unsuccessful attempt to find an ice screw I left at the belay a few days before. Found an offset nut though.

MikeLell 22/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd ice pitch, moved together in the top section. First grade IV and a great route!

Hidden 21/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
RachelP 21/Feb/10 2nd

Gethin and Gareth also with us, climbing as a pair

with Jamie
BorisVBlade 31/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Daniel Wong
vincentvega 31/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Poor visiblity, britle ice and heaps of spindrift. A perfect welsh day!

with danny robb
thecurlyone 31/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Awesome conditions. Lots of spindrift.

with Bernard Lam
Hidden 30/Jan/10 -
al99 10/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Luke Thomas
Hidden 09/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 04/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

I took the second pitch. Not a bad route, awkward crux

Hidden 02/Jan/10 AltLd
Cardi 02/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Proper winter conditions, spin drift and all. Led 2nd pitch. Camped at the base of the cliff that night.

with Steve B
Hidden 02/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
MBrear 01/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

In the dark

ian1234567 ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Dec/09 AltLd
Hidden 31/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
geoff b 28/Dec/09 Lead O/S

First route on the Ladders. Ice was in great condition & we made quick work of it. I remember a bloke soloing past me whilst I was on the belay stance!

with Garry S, Libby
Hidden 12/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
nicholas Barrowclough 21/Mar/06 AltLd O/S

Good route to finish a great day!

with Rob Greenwood
Hidden 05/Mar/06 AltLd
beermonkey 03/Mar/06 AltLd

one year on from the first time i did this route and conditions nearly identical, fantastic weather and some good ice, a great day out again.

with Tom
Tom M Williams 03/Mar/06 AltLd O/S


with Britney/beermonkey
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
GuyM ??/2006 -
with ric
beermonkey ?/Mar/05 AltLd

Amazing conditions, v.thick ice perfect weather and a final belay in the sunshine stripped to my baselayer! Possibly THE perfect winter day!

with andy
Hidden ?/Mar/05 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/00 AltLd O/S
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
NickJH ?/Feb/91 2nd dog
with JThomas
Neil McA 22/Feb/86 AltLd O/S
with John Myres
Hidden 25/Jan/86 AltLd
Tim Sparrow ??/1986 AltLd
with Ian Owen
neilh 27/Jan/85 AltLd
with simon webster
Hidden 16/Jan/85 AltLd
Martin Bennett 25/Feb/84 -

Missed 1st pitch. had gone to do the classic but 2 teams in it. they fell out of it and we picked up the situation late afternoon during our descent.

with Mick Donnelly
Derek Ryden 19/Feb/78 AltLd O/S

First pitch steep and hard - very dinner platey

with Andy Draper
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High V
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High IV
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High 6
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