Rockfax Description
III, 300m. A wonderful route with some great slabby finger cracks and brilliant views across the to the Dru. Start by a cairn at the left-hand side of the big slabs.
1) 6a+. Climb cracks diagonally left to a belay below a roof.
2) 6b. Climb the corner and then pull out left to gain a crack.
3) 6c. Climb a corner-crack above to gain a slab. Climb this past several bolts until a 5m traverse right gets to the belay.
4) 6c. Climb the bolted slab above, or follow the wide crack out right (easier but needs a large cam). Pull through the overlap.
5) 6a+. Look out for a bolt above a roof above. Climb to this via a right-trending ramp. Pull past the bolt to the belay.
6) 6b+. Climb cracks trending left towards an overlap and bolt. Pass these to gain a slab.
7) 6c. Follow the amazing crack that eventually flares out. Belay below a roof.
8) 5c. Traverse left to a crack and follow this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. F.Pallandre, K.Pallandre, D.Gumy 22.7.2000 22/Jul/2000.

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