Rockfax Description
A great route, although it often seeps on the crux, and is more like E5 when that is wet. A selection of trad gear and 15+ quickdraws is useful. Start by a large boulder below a line of weakness that goes the full height of the wall. Make difficult and polished moves to reach the first ledge, and follow the curving line of weakness up and right to another ledge at 12m. A step left, followed by an awkward pull up, leads to better holds. Then climb a crack to a pinnacle. From its top, move up and left into a niche, before it is possible to move back right to below a slanting V-groove capped by a roof. Move up into the V-groove, exiting it to the foot of a crack, left of the small roof. Hard moves up this, crux, lead to good flat holds. Traverse left to an airy mantelshelf. Then follow the ledges up and right to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Dinorwig Essentials, North Wales Rock Graded List, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales E3's, a State of Slate, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Mike505 28/Aug/17 Lead dnf

I felt really good right until the crux hold, not completely wet at the minute but it is just at the back, got progressively more pumped as I kept chalking up, the move isn't that much more difficult than others in the route and is easy enough to read. Lowered off for a ground up when it's next in condition. Maybe worth having your partner ab in and dry the hold off?

BC 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Quite damp in those cracks today, had to fight to stay on. Glad I got this onsight because I felt I was gunna slip off. Such a quality mix of moves and positions. Loved the crux!

Scott Quinn 17/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with tunnah
tunnah 17/Jun/17 Lead dog

should of got it os

with scott
nathanlee 01/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Valiant attempt from bubbles

with Bubbles, Heather
Hidden 13/May/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May/17 Lead O/S
JamesWilliams 10/May/17 2nd rpt
with Trystan Lowe
kenneM 08/May/17 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 25/Apr/17 2nd O/S
steven_daniels99 23/Apr/17 2nd
WilliamRupp 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S


Andy Peak 1 25/Mar/17 Lead

Long and wet at the top, fun

with Andrew Deckon
Neilaw 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Jack
JamesWilliams 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Mega! Steep with big holds lots of rests and a slimy crux on an amazing big wall made for a great experience.

with Arthur Milr
Flavio 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S

The crux is pretty out there, did it in the complete wet and it felt hard 6a!

w-watson 30/Jul/16 2nd
robpartridge 01/Jun/16 Lead
with Helen
Chriswallis2 28/May/16 Lead rpt
with Mike W
Hidden 22/Mar/16 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
spidermonkey09 11/Sep/15 Lead G/U

99% onsight after slipping off the first move! Fantastic climbing but so awkward, and really hard to read. Pleased with getting it first go, been wanting to do it for ages but it was never dry.

Hidden 11/Sep/15 2nd dog
mr mills 10/Sep/15 Lead rpt

Found it harder than I thought it would be, last did it in 2009 felt like an o/s bur put it down as a repete route which I guess that what it was. Quite happy getting it clean though !

with Helen
will9911 15/Aug/15 Lead dog

Was wet in the morning after the rain, probably should have amen notice of the guidebook about the seepage. Didn't look wet until arriving at the crux. Tried to battle through it, , wiping hands and feet every move,almost got through to the ledge but the holds were sopping and muddy. Right got slipped and came off.:(

with tim
Hidden 12/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S
wi11 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Pete Harrison
dan ely 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with bren
geoff b 16/Jun/15 2nd

Great route to second, though it was a bit breezy at times. Took the opportunity to clean various bits of greenery from it. Drier than I remember (6 years ago?).

Hidden 16/Jun/15 Lead dog
BRoe 14/Jun/15 2nd O/S
MarkRoe 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Lef from the second bolt to the top as our ropes were only 50's. There was a little seepage and some greenness on the crux groove which almost, almost dispatched me. You don't get much more in the way of adventure as single pitch goes.

with Ben Roe
belay bunny turned bad 15/May/15 -
markalmack 14/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Ripped a hold off and somehow managed to hold on. Got me a bit tense after that, and started to get very pumped through the wet crux. Really enjoyed this one.

bede.west 14/Feb/15 Lead O/S

mega! in size and standard. First on-sight of the grade if I can count a large largly bolted slate root as E3...? its really good! holds just before the crux were wet

with German loui
Hidden 14/Feb/15 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2015 -
kingholmesy ??/2015 Lead O/S

My first route on slate.

with Colin
pete johnson 28/Sep/14 2nd rpt


Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
BenRyle 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Barry
Martin Cooper 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Dominic, Stan
duncandarnell 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Cool sustained climbing and pretty safe

tgeh 26/Jul/14 Lead dog
with dan geh
Dan Geh 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Amazing, lots of climbing!

Mattlamb90 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Pumped to shit at the top

with Ryan
alexjz 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Had to rush the final crack after news that jimmy needed a rescue on poetry pink!! Haha

with George Ullrich
Nick Russell 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

A good adventure route! Maybe it doesn't see that much traffic: there's a fair bit of vegetation and some loose rock. Light drizzle started when I got to about 10m.

with Pablo
C coldwell-storry 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Chelton
pablosordo ?/Jun/14 2nd
with nick
Glyn 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Nice exposure and a couple of cool moves but much more choosy, loose, vegetated and wet then I was expecting. Had been looking forward to this route for many years. I think maybe it's over hyped a bit. Hardest move is getting off the ground. Most of the route is more balancy then pumpy

with Amy
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 2nd
with Buzz Jones
mileshill540 ??/2014 2nd
mike mo ??/2014 -
Alistair Corbett 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

long!! but not very hard. got pumped

Chriswallis2 03/Sep/13 Lead dog

Not fit enough. Spent 45 mins getting to the crux section then 25 mins mid crux trying to recover for the last move and finally slid off. Finished after a good rest.

with Anna
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
tim newton 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with si hughes
Julian Cooper 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Ben Steel
Ian Broome 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Full value. Brilliant

andyinglis 24/May/13 Lead O/S

Big pitch! Almost foiled by slime in the groove high up!

with James Wheater
Alice Thompson 22/May/13 2nd O/S
dan gibson 22/May/13 Lead O/S
with alice thompson
Dan724 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/13 2nd dog
wolf.leeb 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Epic route. Very engaging with some funky moves.. Found it hard for 5c.. Only 2 stars from me due to some suspect rock. Alternate 6a finish inbetween colos and rtws makes for a tricky topout using a thin layaway. Probly done by monkey williams who was obsessed by this wall, buying 2 bolts a week with his dole money.

with Alexis
Lenny 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Mark (Jumper)
ksjs 28/Feb/13 2nd rpt

So good, harder than I remember though I did feel that this was a big lead for me at the time. Solid E3 despite the bolts, it's all there but takes some working out and the rock has its questionable bits. Regardless, class all the way.

with rob
Rob Pitt 28/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
richiebongo ??/2013 Lead O/S

Early 90's.

Nickc ??/2013 -
Nickc ??/2013 -
dswansonlow 26/Oct/12 Lead dnf

The crux crack was full of frictionless slime... Not impressed. Had to lower off the mallions

Ed morris 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A good route, if the first move was near the top this route would be desperate.

with Dickon
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead
pembrokeshirecaver 09/Sep/12 2nd β

Fell off start then climbed from the ground.

Adam Booth 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Got to the first bolt a few years ago, so nice to do this properly today. Felt pretty easy (apart from slightly off balance top crack) - is baisically just a long 6b+ sport route.

fennerz 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S


Michael Allday 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
UncleMephisto ?/Aug/12 Lead dog
Dean177 ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
al123 30/Jul/12 2nd

Awesome route. 4th route since october so was pretty pumped throughout. Dogged on a bolt just by the crux to clean my shoe, still abit damp up there. great route

with rhys
Chi Cheng 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Crux was wet

Rachel Slater 15/Apr/12 2nd dog

Fell off in the middle when I ripped off a giant handhold. Upper section was very wet.

Bob ??/2012 -
willoates ??/2012 Lead O/S

Bit wet at the top, great climb.

with Dave Evans, Martin D
Liam FLeming 03/Jun/11 -

ace cant wait to do ride the wild surf

with mark up the road, karen dalzell
HeatherF 01/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Got scared and tired and the holds were wet!

Tom Livingstone 01/Jun/11 Lead β
martinazando 01/May/11 2nd O/S
al99 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Loved every minute. Whopping route on slate! Don't ask me what happened on that crux crack cos I was so boxed out my face I had no clue what was going on. At one point me left foot went above my left hand?? This route is very safe and is absolutely stonking

Pippa 30/Apr/11 Lead
with Jon
dan ely 12/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with greg kane
david morse 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Doesnt feel like a slate route! Top layback felt very on/off, was quite wet. Awesome!

with owain, katie
Ows ?/Apr/11 2nd


Duncan Campbell 28/Mar/11 Lead β

Ground up. fell off and backed off low down a year ago when wet. This time was not without dramas. Pulled a rugby ball-sized block off by the 2nd? bolt, glad I was wearing a lid! Awesome, quite a go-ey crux, I had to do a big dynamic move over to the final ledge. Psyched!

with Mikey G
beci tointen ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Jamie Kean
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Bennykr 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S

good route, a fair bit wet especially the top crack, was tired aswell.

Ally Smith 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Sep/10 Lead dnf
irish paul 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Bristoldave 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S

More like 6b/6b+

with LukeW
Ed Babs 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Harry
London Luke ?/Jun/10 2nd O/S
pete johnson 15/May/10 Lead rpt
with Lun
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 02/May/10 Lead O/S
with Kev
zero six ?/May/10 Lead O/S
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/May/10 Lead O/S

More of a sport route really, very good, 6b+.

barni 27/Apr/10 2nd
with luke
Luke Brooks 27/Apr/10 Lead
with Barni
Hidden 26/Apr/10 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/10 Lead O/S
geoff b 12/Apr/10 Lead

On my tick list for so many years...since I heard Paul describe it! Great climbing, well protected & none the worse for a little dampness.

Hidden 12/Apr/10 2nd
Alex Mason 19/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Intendewd just to get duncans draws out, ended up doing it in the drizzle, just in time. Was wicked climbing. Never too hard apart from the hard start.

Hidden 01/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi ??/2010 Lead O/S
Jus 24/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
barni 27/Jun/09 Lead β

wet again

with long jon
Marti999 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/09 2nd
middlevern ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd β
feilx 05/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with Angus
metal arms 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S
mr mills 20/Mar/09 Lead
with paul simkiss
Mike Goldthorp 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S

wet and slimy as fanny from halfway up, grim, but awesome route!

with Herve
RossG ?/Mar/09 -
RossG123 ?/Mar/09 Lead
Brown 01/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Harry Westaway
Jack Symmons ??/2009 Lead
with Simon Martin
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
barni 18/Sep/08 Lead dnf

was dripping

with Oli
Hidden 28/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
centurion05 22/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with woody
hervenuttall 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with xav
Sgt. Vest 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S
mattyork2 27/May/08 Lead O/S
gjd 24/May/08 2nd O/S
with Ronnie
Hidden 16/May/08 2nd
Mark Stevenson 14/May/08 2nd β
with Herrie Heckman
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
Hidden 26/May/07 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead dog
ksjs 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S

wow! outstanding stuff: a 'proper' climb, totally absorbing. bold start, continued interest above with a great crux. make sure its as dry as possible

Hidden 28/Apr/07 2nd
lukea 17/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Al
middlevern 03/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 03/Apr/07 2nd
with Nick Verney
JulesV ??/2007 -
zero six ??/2007 Lead O/S


DavidEvans 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Amazing. Felt bold in places despite bolts and jugs. Quite pumpy. Amazing line.

with R Smitton
feilx 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/06 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Dringo ??/2006 -
Hidden 02/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/04 Lead O/S
nicholas Barrowclough 07/Jul/04 2nd

Hard to get off the ground. Once off it's OK

with Mark
spidey 14/Sep/03 Lead
with irish si
Mark Riley ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Bryn Jones
migs493 31/Aug/01 2nd β

Might have been a bit of tight rope!

with Steve Blake
phil64 01/Apr/00 -
caveman_chris ?/May/99 Lead
D Tempest 08/May/98 2nd
with Rick
ste_d 12/Apr/98 2nd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 12/Apr/98 Lead O/S
leadmat ??/1998 Lead O/S
Si Clapham ??/1998 Lead
with Alun Richardson
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
D Tempest 24/May/97 Lead
with Rick
D Tempest 24/May/97 Lead O/S
with Rick
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Steve Crowe 14/Jul/96 2nd rpt
with KM
clark alston ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Dick Hanson
michael burrows 17/Sep/95 Lead O/S
with steve ward
tmawer 28/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Andy Taylor
Roget 07/May/95 Lead O/S
with jon
pete johnson 08/Apr/95 2nd
with Steve Findlay
Hidden 30/Jul/94 Lead
WB ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Geoff
Hidden 01/May/94 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/1994 -
crossleysm ??/1994 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 05/Jun/93 Lead β
with Simon Coles
Hidden 01/May/93 Lead
pete johnson 20/Mar/93 Lead O/S
with Andy Robinson, Kevin Sales
PaulHermes ??/1993 -
Hidden ?/Jun/92 Lead
Andy Fielding 20/May/92 2nd
with Mike Gilbert
stuart100 ?/May/92 2nd dog
with Pete Goodwin
Campbell42 20/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with David Stott
mattnuttall 16/Jul/91 Lead O/S

brilliant, tiring.

with Matthieu Mounier, Alan Holden
Steve Crowe 25/May/91 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 25/May/91 2nd
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 Lead
with stumpy
Hidden 09/Sep/90 Lead
Paul Figg ?/Sep/90 Lead
Hidden 25/Aug/90 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
DDDD ??/1990 -
Seymore Butt ??/1990 Lead
with Dave Barton, Gil
neilh 30/Sep/89 2nd
with Neil Smith
Bruce Kerr 27/Jul/89 Lead
with Keith Turton
Eduardo Martinez 29/May/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/89 Lead
Will Webb ?/May/89 Lead
with Mark Cole
ukb & bmc shark ??/1989 Lead O/S

year a guess

Neil R ??/1989 Lead
with Howard
charlesmfrench 19/Jun/88 -
with Alan Bennett
Hidden 04/Jun/88 Lead O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 01/May/88 Lead
with Bill Williamson
wynaptomos ?/May/88 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1988 2nd
sadams 12/Jul/87 2nd
with Guy Townsend
Hidden 11/Jul/87 2nd
Mike Owen 26/May/87 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 26/May/87 Lead
Enty ??/1987 -
with A Gudgeon
Paul Clarke ??/1987 AltLd
with Paul Greenland, Nick Dalzell
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
Hidden 30/May/86 Lead
Hidden 05/May/86 Lead O/S
keefe 05/May/86 -
Nick Biven ??/1986 -
mitch1960 ??/1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
mitch1960 ??/1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
mark mcgowan01 ??/1986 -

Great route - great day.

with Denise Arkless
mitch1960 ??/1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 51
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set