Access Banned
The quarry is currently closed for climbing. A new lease has been agreed with the landowner and the new tenant has plans to blast there again.
30m.
Start below the right hand end of the wall at a broken ramp that goes up rightwards into the huge corner. Scramble up the ramp for a few metres to where a scoop and thin crack lead out left onto the blank-looking slab. Use the crack and two shot holes to move across the slab and gain a triangular niche. Climb delicately up a thin rightwards break to reach the big central ledges and up right to a possible bolt belay (it may be useful to pull the rope through here to avoid rope drag in the upper section). Continue easily rightwards for a few metres then up a steep wall to the overhang barrier. Move across left and pull over to gain a thin left-slanting crack. Follow this to join the last 5m of Pocket Battleship and the lower offs.
07.07.2022 P.Whillance, A.Towse 07/Jul/2022.
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Route of Interest
Clone Wars
Grade: 7b ***
(Hodge Close Quarry)