4 pitches. A four pitch beauty. A contender for best E1 in England with four contrasting pitches.
1. 5a. Better than it looks with good rough rock.
2. 5b. A superb delicate groove.
3. 4c. An exposed rightward traverse is not easy to lead or follow.
4. 5c. From the fine stance climb past the peg with difficulty.

Ticklists: Hard Rock, MIA logbook must haves!, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List.

BushwackerBritz 27/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
with Thom Wright
JendeHoxar 24/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
Flavio 24/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Filthy, wet, scary and desperate.

CMoore 01/Jul/17 AltLd

good route. bit dity

tunnah 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Pete Rigby 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Fantastic sustained and varied climb. Not dirty enough to detract from the experience and didn't see a tick all day!

with Merlin March
clams 18/Jun/17 AltLd

If this was in Scotland it'd be 4 star. Led P2 only. Abseil anchor is currently a mess - needs a knife and 10m of rope

with PR
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
samt 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Very much as everyone says. I thought the climbing was better than it looks and not actually that dirty. VS pitch was probably the most taxing!! However, scrambling up to the start of the route was verging on the harrowing. One of the ropes was a 50, so walked off - again, all very over grown and unpleasant. Take 60m ropes and ab. Needs new tat round the boulder on the ab. Needs sorting out really. Lots of ticks too, don't wear shorts!!!

with Nic Kidd
joe.91 01/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Bailed on the third pitch, wt and didn't feel confident. Down climbed the VS

C May 25/Jun/16 AltLd

Led P1 and P3. Bird ban lifted 7-10 days ago, climb is dirty, needs cleaning. Protection not the easiest to find, but some nice climbing. Would benefit from more traffic and beware there are many many ticks (pulled 10-15 off Tim)!!

with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 25/Jun/16 AltLd O/S


with C May
Scott Quinn 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

no bird ban signs thought it was off - lesson learnt! No signs of any nesting birds, crags filthy, real shame. Good route but not amongst the best e1's

Tom.Priestley 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4. Could run P2 and P3 together if you wanted. Unfortunately very dirty and needs much more traffic and a good clean, other routes on the crag look like they haven't been done in years. Mate abseiled off the top with 50m ropes and didn't make it.

Hidden ??/2016 AltLd
andy28th ??/2016 Lead O/S
andy28th ??/2016 Lead O/S
James Oswald ??/2016 Lead O/S
Misha 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Brannock 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 and 4, Misha ran 2 and 3 together. Very good route, spectacular position with a great view. 60 meter ropes *just* reach the ground (start of pitch 1), when abbing off the top.

olekemi 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Colin D
Colin Dyer 27/Sep/15 AltLd

Brilliant climb, led the crux pitch which was very hard and a bit wet in the crack. Situation is immense throughout.

with Ole
Alastair R 05/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Good but surely not one of the top E1s in England?! Arboreal adventure abseiling back down off the top...

with Simie
graeme gatherer ?/Sep/15 -
with Steve Elliot
Jamesmoly 25/Aug/15 2nd

One 5s rest on last crack of last pitch - greasy and wet

Nigel Bond 25/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/15 AltLd
bwestwood 13/Aug/15 AltLd
pie_eater_pete 13/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/15 -
beds74 15/Jul/15 AltLd

I led 1,4 pitches. First pitch was looking forward to proving the 'lacking in gear theory' is lot's of gear if you look around...6-8 pieces I think. Didn't pull on the peg, bit thin going across slab great position. 5b groove lovely good gear, although more spaced than pitch 1. Good lead Chris. Possibly in my top 5 E1's in the Lakes.

with Chris
klipkabouter 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Lead p 2 and 3. Paul styled the crux. not bad for after work

with Paul
Harry Ellis ??/2015 AltLd dnf

Only pitches 1-3 ran out of time and laat pitch was wet anyway. Ropes were a mare to pull through. Led p1 5a but steep

with james gibson, matt fraser
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
Scooter Young ??/2015 -
BRoe 24/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

p2 + 4, cracking stuff

MarkRoe 24/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitches 1 and 3. From below it looks like pitch 1 will be a vertical garden, but it's not that bad when you work out where to actually start.

with Ben Roe
ned_85 22/Sep/14 AltLd
with Pete
Abi Chard 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1,3 and 4. In good condition, pretty clean, good peg on final pitch. Crux was getting up through the trees to the start of the route!

Martin Haworth 27/Aug/14 AltLd

Bit of an epic, led p1,p2,p4. Dislocated my thumb on the last pitch. Pitch 1 is steep but not as bold as the guidebook suggests, I got plenty of good gear in, pitch 2 is hard and pitch 4 is very tricky.

with Stephen
PaulTanton 26/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
with Dennis Gleeson
Hidden 24/Jul/14 AltLd
Pohil 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S

The exit crack is slimy.

Hidden ??/2014 -
barni ?/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
with Bob
philhilo 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Best E1 on Raven Crag, maybe. . . .Scarily reminiscent of Dwm, just easier on the crux and not as good. Fantastic mushrooms though!

with Helen E
alexjz 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Seconded 2nd pitch, finished up the VS as there was already a party on the final pitch

with Matt Burdekin
guy757 28/Sep/13 -
centurion05 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

A good route, feels like a proper mountain crag in the Lakes for a change. First pitch was a bit off balance, crux is really nice! Not quite the best E1 i've ever done mind.

with Ben thynne
joe_lancs 14/Aug/13 AltLd O/S


Hidden 14/Aug/13 AltLd
JanBella 08/Aug/13 AltLd dog

led pitch 1 and backed up then led pitch 3 and pulled on gear on pitch 4 not my day for climbing.... crag itself is amazing and also the route is great. pitch 4 crux is in such good position and it's well protected.

with simon
Hidden 22/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jul/13 2nd
dicky79 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

P1, 2 & 4.

with James D
airborne 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Started up as the previous party got back to the base, hence a slightly late finish involving headtorches and missing last orders. But had a top time. Still a bit dirty here and there.

Lessworkmoreclimbing 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Kev led pitch 1,3&4, I led pitch 2 which was great climbing. Felt solid E1 and was almost too much for me but managed to hang on in there and get through the crux. Felt it only fair to give Kev the top pitch. Seconded it fine and could have led it. Fantastic route start to finish, would happily do it again. First pitch didn't feel grassy or bold though approaching the route is horrid!

with Kev
NiccyMac 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome climb, last pitch was so much if and quite scary!

fatboyblim 10/Jul/13 AltLd

beautiful route. first pitch dirty but otherwise clean. fantastic final pitch

with tony
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
peter.ravenscroft27 06/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Did not do top pitch (out of time). Fantastic first 3 pitches tho! Would love to go back and finish route

with Sean Holmes
captain ??/2013 -
Em66 ??/2013 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 12/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
markalmack 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Pitches 1&3 only

tlmarjot 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S

P1 Totalitarian, P2 Empire, P3 Totalitarian. Awesome climbing. P2 of Totalitarian looks cracking

with Mark Almack, Chris Todd
Dunx 03/Aug/12 AltLd
with Joe M
martrin 29/May/12 AltLd
with Colin Smith
JonG ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
Johann ??/2012 Lead O/S
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden 01/Sep/11 AltLd dnf
WB 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

amazing route. apart from the scramble start. the last pitch was ace. thought we were going to have to back off because of rain, but just about stayed dry enough.

with Guy
Hidden 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Mark D 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
beci tointen ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jamie Kean
GuyM ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with will
Petarghh 25/Jul/11 AltLd

Only lead middle 4b pitch wasn't feeling up to much after yesterday. but a very very good route none-the-less !

Hidden 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
samrad 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with james G
Lord_ash2000 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
tomhull 23/Jul/11 Lead dog

such a cock, pulled on the peg rather than committing to the couple of moves needed. stupid. the rest of the route was great. ill be back.

with Ben Scraggs
cooperman 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Greg Foster
Nigel Coe 12/Jul/11 AltLd
with Steve Venables
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
Andrew Wilson 07/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

wet and slimy, particularly 3rd pitch. I led 1st and 3rd pitches. Was very necky given the conditions but first 3 pitches cleanly led. We then abbed off in the dark from 3rd belay.

with Tony Womersley
net 09/Oct/10 2nd

Top pitch only having done Communist Convert. Had rather a tight rope for this...

with George
GPN 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Did the first 2 pitches of Communist Convert and the final pitch of Totalitarian. Really enjoyed it.

with Annette
tim newton 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with harri melhuish
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 27/Sep/09 -
SiW 27/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 27/Sep/09 -
Bob ??/2009 -
Christian Beck ??/2009 Lead

very dirty,nice top pitch but soaking wet and full of moss..hard to see why this gets 3 stars!...loads of ticks and midge..

Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
gforce 27/Sep/08 AltLd
with Kath
Andy S 24/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Confessional: because we were getting benighted I just blasted through the last pitch and pulled on the peg to save time :-(! 5a 5b 4b 5c, led first and 3rd pitches. Went off-route on the first pitch to begin with. A classic route for sure but my experience was slightly blighted by being short of time. Cowboys - didn't even take our headtorches up the crag with us! Numpties!

with Nick
Hidden 07/Oct/07 Lead
Hidden 07/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 10/Aug/07 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 01/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Alan Hinkes
Rich Mayfield 31/Jul/07 -
IanJackson 30/Jul/07 AltLd

Best route i have ever done in the lakes. Easy for the grade.

with Robeverybody
Chad123 23/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Pretty good route, but not really three stars due to mossy rock in places. First two pitches are best with sustained steep wall and groove climbing. Plenty of ticks and midges detract from the experience too....

with Emily
Hidden 06/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 02/Jun/07 AltLd

A bit dirty but still awesome!

with David Jones
Mark Davies PK ?/Jun/07 AltLd dog

wasnt climbing very well, was cold so pulled on peg on crux.

with Martin L
Ian Jones ??/2007 Lead O/S

Best E1 in the realm....Shame you can't spell it properly..

with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
fritz_in_aotearoa ??/2006 -
simon kimber ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Adam Gill
John Kettle ??/2005 AltLd
ewen ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/03 AltLd
Steve Crowe 17/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Done before.

with KM
Hidden 26/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
whispering nic ?/Apr/03 AltLd
with Graham Doig
whispering nic ?/Apr/03 AltLd
with Graham Doig
chrishedgehog ??/2003 AltLd

First pitch not to be taken lightly. We had an excellent experience on this. Clean, dry, top quality rock and line. Top pitch is Out There.

with Dan Bailey
Hidden ?/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/00 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1999 -
Ratfeeder 30/Aug/97 AltLd O/S

led pitches 1, 2 & 4

with Kim C
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
p.crooky#1 04/Jun/97 AltLd
with Ecca
Andy Say 31/Aug/96 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Aug/95 AltLd
with Nick Ashton
rob.grafton 25/Jun/95 Lead
with Bruce
pauldrew ??/1995 -

Did in mid nineties.

with Julian Cox
daviesxxx ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
Mick King 05/Sep/93 AltLd

Lead P2 & 4

with Simon Walsh
NickJH ?/May/93 AltLd O/S
with NBarrowclough
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/91 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/90 AltLd
Hidden ??/1990 -
daviesxxx ??/1990 -
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead

Done pre UKC in the 80's or 90's and are on a tick list.

Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
PaulTanton ?/Dec/89 AltLd O/S
Dave Rumney 02/Jul/89 -
Brian Wilderspin 02/Jul/89 -
Chris Ellis 17/Jun/89 2nd
with Dan Morgan
Rich Kirby ??/1988 Lead
with Ray Kelly
scree ??/1987 -
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
neilh 08/Jun/85 Lead
with dave croker
Lone Rider 08/Sep/84 AltLd
with Alan Shand
Paul Clarke ??/1984 Lead
with Unsure
MH ??/1984 Lead O/S
MH ??/1984 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 02/Jul/83 AltLd
with Mick Harris
charlesmfrench 19/Jun/83 AltLd O/S


Mike Owen 19/Jun/83 AltLd O/S
with Steve Foxley
Hidden 29/May/82 Lead
Hammy 30/Aug/81 AltLd
with Rob Lawson, Jonathon Stacey
tmawer 08/Jul/81 AltLd O/S
with Ian Ridington
Bruce Kerr 10/May/80 Lead
with Dave Page
Hidden 10/May/80 AltLd
redjerry ?/May/80 AltLd O/S
with Roy Williamson
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/78 Lead
Mark Kemball 20/May/78 AltLd
with Richard Lang
Hidden ??/1978 AltLd O/S
Pedro50 04/Jul/77 Lead O/S

with Peter Douglas
Derek Furze ??/1977 AltLd
with Leigh Harrison
Derek Furze ??/1977 AltLd
with Leigh Harrison
Hidden 19/Oct/75 AltLd
Falko 12/Jul/75 Lead O/S

Spoiled for me because it was the first 'chalked-up' route that I had followed. We were rained off after this route - so the next party would have enjoyed clean rock.

with Al W.
Martin Bennett 24/Jun/74 -
with RA
jcw ??/1974 -
with Roger Everett
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1973 Lead
with Will Walker
mikej 10/May/70 AltLd dnf
with Wil Hurford
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 39
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set