90m.
No description has been contributed for this climb.
Ticklists
Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Lochaber Esoterica
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KyleRussell | 14 Oct, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Approach is steep with some steep exposed scrambling and when wet (as it was when we done it) very slippy. Pitch 1 - has one hard move just before the belay getting over the bulge. It was soaking wet when we done that pitch so we done it all in our boots but as long as you found flat holds your foot wouldn’t slip off, positive holds and plenty protection as with the full climb. Pitch 2 - Lots of loose rock! Tug on everything before weighting fully. Was still very wet rock so slippy. Pitch 3 - fantastic pitch. Very exposed vertical climbing on dry rock with very good hand holds and lots of air beneath your feet. A great pitch with some lovely moves. The “moderate scramble” after the third pitch I found difficult as you have the same extreme exposure but are no longer on rope and it had started raining so very slippery. Option to get on belay. We followed the guidebook descent down number 2 gulley scree which was absolutely fine, pretty clear path just takes a bit of time. Overall I can see why it’s just VD with the positive holds but in the wet it was more like severe. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Approach is steep with some steep exposed scrambling and when wet (as it was when we done it) very slippy. Pitch 1 - has one hard move just before the belay getting over the bulge. It was soaking wet when we done that pitch so we done it all in our boots but as long as you found flat holds your foot wouldn’t slip off, positive holds and plenty protection as with the full climb. Pitch 2 - Lots of loose rock! Tug on everything before weighting fully. Was still very wet rock so slippy. Pitch 3 - fantastic pitch. Very exposed vertical climbing on dry rock with very good hand holds and lots of air beneath your feet. A great pitch with some lovely moves. The “moderate scramble” after the third pitch I found difficult as you have the same extreme exposure but are no longer on rope and it had started raining so very slippery. Option to get on belay. We followed the guidebook descent down number 2 gulley scree which was absolutely fine, pretty clear path just takes a bit of time. Overall I can see why it’s just VD with the positive holds but in the wet it was more like severe. |
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Route of Interest
Crypt Route
Grade: VD ***
(Bidean nam Bian)