Restricted Access
No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
Ridiculously hard and sustained. It can be done in one long pitch but a belay is advised to ease rope drag. Start in the back of the zawn behind a large fallen block, near the base of a diagonal crack as for The Viper.
1) 5b, 12m. Follow Centrefold to below the groove. Move right to a ledge system and a belay on the ledge just below where the Dreams and Screams crack gets really steep.
2) 6a, 40m. Traverse right then head up to a prominent undercut and onto a small ledge. Move right and up into a shallow groove which leads to better holds. Follow jugs rightwards to gain the flying arete. Ignore the pump and race up the arete (before your arms give out) to a slabby finish.
FA J.Moran, P.Williams 10.5.1984 © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E5 ticklist
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn
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Sebastopol
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)