Rockfax Description
A stunning route that takes in some outrageous territory. Start at the base of the abseil, right of the juggy corner of The Moon.
1) 6a, 38m. Climb up to the overhanging crack - very hard in damp conditions when you may require a 'rest'. From its top, traverse rightwards along a break, through impressive terrain, to a corner. Move across this and around the right arete then head for the belay on The Moon.
2) 5c, 24m. Move up the cracks rightwards slightly before heading more directly up towards an alarming hanging flake. Climb this to pass the first roof, only to be confronted by another one. Move over this and enter a right-trending groove and finish up this. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Richard Kendrick 05/Aug AltLd dnf

Needed to be patient! Got on this and the whole crack was gopping!

with Tom Nichols
Hidden 23/Jul AltLd G/U
Misha 23/Jul AltLd dog

An udderly amazing route with some tough mooves. Greasy as a cow's arse on the crux. You have to hoof it over a few overhangs on the second pitch so make sure you milk the rests or you'll be creamed! Felt over the moon to have done this. Eszter the cowgirl pulled off a great lead on P1. I dangled in the hard and greasy crux and was about to resort to aiding when I finally managed to stick a tricky jam. There's a good finger lock just over the lip, the trick is getting a jam above that - had to dig high and deep in the cow's greasy arse. A pumpy shuffle on greasy jams followed to a poor rest in an overhung niche before the last couple of pulls to easier ground. Brilliant! Shame it was greasy as might have had a chance of doing it clean if it was dry but suspect it rarely is. Tripling up on purple to red cams isn's a bad idea. I got the airy P2, fortunately it's easier than it looks and all about clever bridging - you do have to pull a bit but not too much, which is just as well after P1... Good rest in the first niche followed by an awkward rest in the second niche where you can wedge in a shoulder for a hands free shakeout. There's a loose block just below the top but it's not essential (just as well!). Very good, tough E3 but feels a bit harder after P1. Re the Camel comment below, it's nothing like the Camel and much easier!

with Eszter
FlavioL1989 02/Apr Lead RP

Fell off seconding Mr G last year, lead both pitches no problems this time and a year to get why its called The Cow... An amooosing moment when the 4 person belay party got interrupted by ohhh ahhh-ing Jenny prussiking out of lots of free space. Still steep and bonkers where looking at footholds reminds you of the wild void below! ...It really does jump over the moon!

JenShelley 02/Apr 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2017 -
Ramon Marin 08/Sep/16 AltLd

Wild!

with dave pickford
markalmack 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

led p1. all beans were required.

WB 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. Really amazing, The first pitch is a pain, but the second pitch is brilliant

MichaelGallimore 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Stunning route. My first e5, and what a good one :) Luckily had good conditions with the crack only a little damp at the start and bone dry for the remainder. The roofs on pitch two are outrageous, with some whole body moves. Great views down to the boulders below. Had intended to do the sun and the moon in a day but this one took until night to finish. Learnt loads about how to handle the rope stack when not switching leads, including how to flip the rope pile over. It worked a treat. Cheers Flavio!

with Flavio
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Louishmouis ??/2016 -
datoon 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with MJ
Rachel Slater 17/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Bone dry and almost too hot even for t-shirts!. Probably should have lead second pitch as it was amazing but excuses are that I had a cold and dehydrated.

tim newton 17/Oct/15 Lead G/U

Tried this a few years ago and lowered off due to wet and inability. Steady enough today (first go) in dry conditions, though much too hot in the yellow wall oven.

Hidden 04/Oct/15 AltLd dog
brianhall16 16/May/15 Lead G/U

Thought it was the moon, fell off the crack, lowered, pulled my ropes then did it.

with Helen Wallace
Hidden 07/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
alaan 17/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Battled with the slime for some time but ultimately ran out of patience and energy.

with Will
dan gibson 22/Jul/14 AltLd dog

Quite pleased to lead p1 with only 1 fall. Total slime fest, but great fun all the same. p2 is out there!

with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2. P1 was totally gopping, seeping like a slippery cow, so resorted to French Free. P2 is pretty epic in it's own right.

ellis 21/Jun/14 2nd dog

P1 only, A0 5b

switch 21/Jun/14 Lead dog

p1 only. It looked dry from below, but was as slimy as ever, so a few rests. Finished up Moon p3.

with Ellis
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Howard Lawledge 14/May/13 AltLd
with luke
captain ??/2013 -
Luke Brooks 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1. Glad to get this in good condition.

with Calum
Adam Long 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

First pitch a bit of a graunch, second pitch just incredible

with Ben Bransby
ksjs 08/Jun/11 2nd dog

P1 only. 2 rests before I decided that I actually wanted to pull on the mush at the bottom of the crack; actually OK once you do it. Then I just didn't have the jamming skills for the crack - 1 rest. Then decided I'd climb it with legs outside groove/crack on wall and hands in crack, this was much better! A taxing but superb pitch.

with jo
Alex Mason 24/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Absolutely superb route. The crack has quite a dampness too it. 2nd pitch is wild. Similar to the Camel in style and difficulty.

with George Ullrich
owenH ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 AltLd O/S
with Benedict Boemens
Hidden ??/2011 -
Brown 13/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch.

with James T
TomPR 26/May/10 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2010 -

same day as dinosaur

with dave brown
Hidden 17/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
barni 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with long jon
Toby Dunn 02/May/09 AltLd
with Joe Bawden
nige 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S

Led 1st pitch.

with Phil
Steve Long ??/2004 Lead
with Chris Parkin
Hidden 18/Oct/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/03 2nd
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
GeoffG 04/Jun/99 AltLd
with greg cottrell
ukb & bmc shark 23/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with Dave Marsh
sadams 22/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with John Boyle
duncan 21/May/95 Lead rpt
with Dan Donovan
Steve Crowe 21/Nov/93 Lead O/S
with KM
jfletcher 28/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with David Gilkes
keefe 15/Aug/93 AltLd O/S
Mike Owen 23/Apr/85 AltLd O/S
with Joe Healey
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
duncan ?/Sep/84 Lead O/S
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
Hidden 17/Apr/82 AltLd
Steve Lewis 27/Jul/80 AltLd O/S
with Gordon Tinnings
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Voting
High E6
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Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 15
High 6b
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High 6a
Mid 6a
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High 5c
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Votes cast 15
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set