Rockfax Description
Another great route which is overshadowed by The Sun (if such a concept is possible). The top pitch is a belter.
1) 5c, 15m. Start as for Warpath, and follow it until you are established on the hourglass. Follow this for a few more metres until you are stood on good holds. Make a move down and left into a groove and climb this to a bulge. Exciting moves through the bulge gain a good ledge with a belay towards its back to the left of the crack of the second pitch.
2) 5c, 15m. Move into the crack and follow it to a step right to the continuation and follow it to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Ollie B 02/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Bubbles tried, backed off p1 so i led on mostly his gear. Similar situation with p2. Not too bad.

with T.Ripley, B.Brewer
Hidden 08/Oct/17 Lead
The Grist 12/Aug/17 2nd
PaulTanton 12/Aug/17 Lead rpt
jgordon75 22/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Hold snapped as I started seconding traverse and I had a good swing into space. Climbed direct on steep massive jugs at bottom of the e5 onto the hourglass which I think makes a better route and wouldn't change the grade. Great route.

with Mark Harris
Adam Booth 12/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Wonderful! Superb climbing. Made sense to do it in a single pitch.

with Jon Gupta
Mark Reeves 10/Jul/17 Lead rpt
JamesWilliams 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S

In one big pitch . Top crack is sustained nearly came off at the top of the crack climbing myself into an awkward position in the short corner had to chill and re compose myself

James Beaumont 25/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Nice and pumpy

with James Williams
Hidden 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Flavio 24/Jun/17 2nd O/S
The Grist 21/May/17 Lead dog

A display of massive climbing incompetence. Suddenly got very pumped on the top head wall and took a very big fall. No idea why I climbed past so many gear placements. Despite this I liked the route. Will need to go back.....but make sure I am properly warmed up next time.

with Dan Metcalfe
Hidden 21/May/17 Lead rpt
manwithacam 21/May/17 2nd

Mark seemed to be cruising it, I was thinking about the cake I had brought with me and absentmindedly inspecting the rock around my feet. I heard a gargled shriek, wondered what it could be, realised the inconceivable may have occurred, and hunkered down on the ropes bracing myself for lift off. It seemed to take several seconds but eventually the system was tested. I looked up and Mark was hanging upside down, a lot nearer to me, and laughing and cursing his incompetence. A good 10 metre fall. Much entertainment provided for the other teams present, including several stalwarts of the Climbers Club and the guy on The Sun who was just grappling with the crux when Mark plummeted past headfirst. He got straight back on it and topped it out. By the time we got to the chippy at the end of the day he was doing an excellent John Wayne impression, having bruised his side. Otherwise relatively unscathed thankfully. Good route to second, found it quite awkward.

with Mark Grist
geoff b 14/May/17 Lead rpt

So good I had to do it again!

with Rod W
Hidden 14/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/17 Lead O/S
Smith42 03/May/17 Lead O/S
with kerry
Hidden 03/May/17 2nd
Mark Reeves 03/May/17 2nd
Misha 23/Apr/17 2nd rpt

Great route, forgot it was so space walking through the initial overlaps. Enjoyable to second this time.

Richard Kendrick 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Misha
geoff b 21/Apr/17 Lead

What an awesome route, especially as a single pitch starting up Warpath. Been on the tick list a while & well worth the wait; great holds, lots of gear & plenty of places to rest & gather your courage.

pete johnson 21/Apr/17 2nd
Phil4000 12/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Amazing route! The first half especially has some great positions.

with William brains brant
Dave Almond 01/Apr/17 Lead rpt


with Liam Gaston
PaulTanton 26/Mar/17 2nd rpt
with Tom Doldon
Hidden 26/Mar/17 2nd rpt
pete johnson 26/Mar/17 Lead rpt
shed_hed 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Hung around for ages not wanting to go the way i was supposed to go. A bit rusty and weak at the moment.

with Luke Brooks
Luke Brooks 25/Mar/17 2nd
Frank the Husky ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
Ramon Marin 19/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Jon Leighton
jonleighton 19/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Enjoyable. Went a bit wrong at the top and ended up going diagonally to where Warpath finishes.

samrad 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with rich
smallerrich 23/Aug/16 -
guy757 13/Aug/16 -
Duncan Campbell 13/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Chris_barr 13/Aug/16 2nd
with Rob
James Oswald 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Really good, especially the upper wall.

Hidden ?/Aug/16 Lead
Avon Man 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Derek
Dan Vaj 23/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
pete johnson 21/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Elliot
Hidden 17/Jul/16 2nd rpt
Dave Almond 17/Jul/16 AltLd dog

Fell off second pitch. Maybe later this summer?

with Vun
Neilaw 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
eel 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S
JCAshman 16/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/16 AltLd
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 22/May/16 AltLd O/S

P1. Cool route, the bottom slab is like a mini ochre slab. Found a heel-toe and a knee bar. Jugs all the way and loads of gear - e2

Lenny 22/May/16 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

with Theo
Martin Haworth 22/May/16 AltLd O/S

Great route, worth 3 stars.

Brannock 22/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2, fantastic route, great moves, spaced but mostly good gear.

Chriswallis2 21/May/16 Lead β

clipped Mike's gear

with Mike W
Mike W 21/May/16 Lead O/S
with chris
Rory Shaw ??/2016 -
mike mo ??/2016 -
Hidden 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
robpartridge 26/Sep/15 AltLd
GraMc 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with rob
WB 12/Sep/15 Lead rpt

seconded Andy last week. A really good route.

with Andy M
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead
Andrew Sloan 14/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Matthew
Hidden 02/Aug/15 -
Hidden 30/Jul/15 Lead rpt
ashtond6 25/Jul/15 2nd O/S

awesome F6c

Hidden 12/Jul/15 -
mike mo 12/Jul/15 AltLd
mike mo 12/Jul/15 AltLd
Mike_Hayes 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Duncan Barrack
masa-alpin 11/May/15 2nd β

Brilliant route! This route could be in Pabbay!

with Dennis van Hoek
Hidden 21/Apr/15 Lead dog
dswansonlow 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Will H
wi11 19/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Dougie
wi11 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S

In one big pitch, felt pretty steady. Cool climbing with some rambling at the bottom

with Niels
Hidden 14/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Owain Llewelyn 10/Apr/15 AltLd
with Gareth E
Tom Livingstone 13/Mar/15 2nd rpt
HAJ Francis ?/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
adie84 ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
mattnuttall 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead p2. Felt very amenable in comparison to the mornings 'event' on electric blue, fortunately as was not really recovered!

with Andy Wilson
Andrew Wilson 21/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
with Matt Nuttall
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd β
Hidden 06/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
steveboote 06/Sep/14 2nd

With 'Hidden'

mynyddresident 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

great big pitch in a nice position.

with KP
pauldrew 22/Aug/14 2nd
pete johnson 22/Aug/14 -
Tom Livingstone 06/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 17/Jul/14 AltLd
farmus21 17/Jul/14 AltLd

Lead P1 from sea-level direct. Steep but juggy with ok gear. Great pitches both.

with Sam Farnsworth
Rich Kirby 11/Jul/14 2nd rpt
mike lawrence? 08/Jul/14 2nd
with FatRob
Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Misha 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

In one pitch. The hardest bit was placing gear below and getting onto the hour glass slab (not really a slab but ok it's not that steep). The headwall crack was pretty steady as had a few rests. Nice route, fair at the grade if done in one pitch.

with Eszter
Hidden 14/Jun/14 2nd
pete johnson 09/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Lun
tim newton 06/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

In a oner.

mileshill540 ??/2014 AltLd
Jake Young ??/2014 2nd
with Mike
Glenn Sutcliffe 10/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Bailed from Gogarth to hide from strong northerly winds, perfect choice of venue, sitting on bucket belay below pitch 2 basking in the sun

with Pete Cresswell
Chris Reid 03/Aug/13 Lead

Done in 1 pitch - don't understand why it should be otherwise. Great route as a big single pitch.

with Rob Muirhead
soph 28/Jul/13 2nd
with Jonny Dawes
Sardien 18/Jun/13 2nd

Best belay spot in North Wales for P2

with Helena Robinson
a pedley 09/Jun/13 AltLd

Good route, good gear

with Jim Burton
a pedley 09/Jun/13 AltLd

Good route, good gear

geoff b 25/May/13 2nd
Steve Long 25/May/13 2nd
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead rpt
Andrew Wilson 21/May/13 AltLd O/S

P2. Superb crack pitch. Great route.

Owain Llewelyn 09/May/13 Lead rpt

In one.

with Doddy
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 04/Sep/12 AltLd
alaan 04/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Will
Duncan Campbell 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch one, which has a tricky section getting onto the hourglass slab of Warpath. brilliant climbing up the rest of the pitch and to the top. Wish I'd done it in a oner! Prob steady E3 as 2 pitchs, but would be top end as one. Brilliant climbing.

Bennykr 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Sweet route!! lead pitch 2

with Duncan
owain86 24/Jun/12 AltLd O/S


with Max
Hidden 19/May/12 Lead rpt
Tom Livingstone 03/May/12 2nd β
with Gwen Lancashire
Luke Brooks 27/Mar/12 AltLd rpt
with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Luke
Neil McA 07/Nov/11 2nd rpt
with James Turnbull
belay bunny turned bad 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Ian Jones 24/Jul/11 2nd RP

Great climb, at least **. Bottled pitch 2 just one move away from easy ground, feeling tired from Syringe.

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
givemetea 19/Jul/11 AltLd rpt

5c, 5c - led P2

with Vince
3 Names 19/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dave Searle 27/May/11 Lead O/S
al99 17/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Luke Thomas
ksjs 11/May/11 2nd rpt
with Joey
Dave Turnbull, BMC 10/May/11 Lead rpt
with Becky McGovern
laurelfan 10/May/11 2nd
with Sophie
Steve Long 17/Apr/11 2nd

Climbed this many times because its such a good route

Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead rpt
ksjs 18/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Done in 1 pitch. Brilliant climbing and a lovely contrast between the 2 pitches. Very well-protected, steady throughout, straightforward at E3. Got a bit stressed on upper wall: fading light, no more 4 or 5 wires and unsure about line (I stepped right just below where you meet the small right facing corner and this seemed correct). FWIW I thought line on topo in NWR was wrong: from the belay ledge it's more direct (middle of the wall) than the line shows.

with Jim
zero six ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S

As a single pitch it makes for a great E3, or else it's still great, but not E3.

centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Owain Llewelyn 24/Sep/10 Lead
with Andy
centurion05 24/Sep/10 2nd
with Owain
Adam Lincoln 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Mick Lovatt
La Mont 14/Aug/10 Lead
with Felix
feilx 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Andy L
dan gibson 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
mr mills 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
with ioan d
nick arding 09/May/10 AltLd O/S
with rob pitt
Rob Pitt 08/May/10 AltLd O/S

Did pitch 2

with Nick Arding
Hidden 13/Feb/10 Lead O/S
mattyork2 28/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Bit close to sunset and a little bit stressful,sorry dude..... Not cool - nice climbing though.

with Johnny Richard
Sgt. Vest 07/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

i was cuming on the rock

Hidden 07/Oct/09 AltLd dog
Hidden 07/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
givemetea 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Libby Peter
frost 17/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with D Almond
Dave Almond 17/Sep/09 AltLd dog

first pitch pumped me out for the day.rested on rope on second pitch.i blame and hope its the chemo.

Hidden 12/Sep/09 AltLd
JM ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Danny O'Neil, Rory Shaw
Ri ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Anja Jones
miastacey 03/May/09 AltLd O/S

Mia pitch 1, Bob pitch 2.

with Bob Smith
Hidden 02/May/09 AltLd dog
switch 11/Apr/09 Lead rpt
kingholmesy ??/2009 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch

with Andy S
Luke Brooks ??/2009 AltLd
Alex Mason 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

lead first pitch, steep route.

with Andy Reeve
Dave Rumney 17/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Dennis Wong
middlevern ?/May/08 Lead rpt
with Mike Blood
NeilGriffiths ??/2008 -
with Simon Frost, Dave Almond
sadams 09/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Eric Hildrew
Brown 23/Jun/07 2nd β

run into one

with Max
Toby Dunn 02/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Nick Verney
mux ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
pete johnson 04/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Paul Drew
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
PaulTanton ?/May/00 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
caveman_chris ?/May/99 Lead
Rich Kirby ?/May/99 AltLd O/S
with Hugh
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Mark Hamilton
Hidden 02/Aug/97 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/1995 Lead
with Dave Barton
steve taylor ?/Jun/94 -
with Jim Waddington
Cowflinger ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Craig
Steve Crowe 30/Oct/93 Lead O/S
with KM
jfletcher 25/May/92 Lead O/S
with David Gilkes
wynaptomos ?/Jul/89 AltLd O/S
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S


with Gordon Hemsley
Hidden 04/Aug/84 Lead
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 51
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set