UKC

Rockfax Description
A stiff little pitch, which is a popular route of its grade (i.e. it is an easy E5 ). The headwall is thin, technical and sustained but only short. Start at the block belay below Little Queenie. Traverse right to where you are forced to step down into steeper territory, move right for a few metres until below a hanging groove. Make difficult moves up into the groove and follow the hourglass slab up and right to its end below a good undercut and a steep headwall. Getting established on the headwall is hard. Above is sustained climbing on well-spaced crimps to a rest on a small ledge on the right arete. Above, the climbing eases considerable and leads up and slightly left to the top. Belay well back. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, 30 For My 30s, Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list, Soft Touches, Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
George_Surf 11 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Well worth starting off the beach directly under the peg. Skirt the grass on the left. Place a big wire right of the corner then head up and left on big flakes. More good wires then you hit big jugs in the break, just left of the peg. Don’t bother with the death grass approach!
Show beta
βeta: Well worth starting off the beach directly under the peg. Skirt the grass on the left. Place a big wire right of the corner then head up and left on big flakes. More good wires then you hit big jugs in the break, just left of the peg. Don’t bother with the death grass approach!
DeanB 22 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Cheeky kneebar rest before headwall. Really good gear around this part, a mega clean whipper is the consequence of blowing it while trying hard on the headwall. Would happily get on it again.
Show beta
βeta: Cheeky kneebar rest before headwall. Really good gear around this part, a mega clean whipper is the consequence of blowing it while trying hard on the headwall. Would happily get on it again.

Logged Ascents

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 63
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 56
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Hunger

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)
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