180m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic route combining face, crack and corner climbing. Unfortunately suffering a little from its popularity, the rock is polished in places. Most parties exit right after the fifth pitch to join the Schober/Kleisl (Rossi) route, but there is now a direct finish which follows the short upper arete.
Start on the right of the left pillar, just below and right of a large corner.
1) VI-, 40m. Ascend the grey rocks at the base then move left on a ledge below the large corner. Follow this, which narrows to form a tight chimney (rucksack wearers beware!). Trend slightly left to reach a stance below a yellow corner-crack.
2) IV-, 20m. Move left of the yellow crack to a black crack running parallel, and climb this. At half height, ignore pegs above and traverse back right into the yellow crack and follow this to a stance below a gully.
3) V+, 20m. Step left and climb a corner-crack, then follow a yellow flake left to avoid a bulge. Climb direct to a stance on a detached block.
4) III, 30m. Climb the vegetated rock above direct (alternatively move right and climb a corner - harder at IV+) then follow a technical crack to reach a ledge. Follow this right.
5) V+, 40m. Climb direct to a niche and move right from this. Follow moves up the pocketed face up and left to reach a black crack (possible belay in case of rope drag). Climb the crack direct, pull through a bulge and continue to reach easy-angled rock leading right.
Exit right and follow a ledge, with an intermediate stance shared with Icterus, to join the final pitch of the Schober/Kleisl (Rossi) route, or alternatively continue as below:
Direct Finish
6) VI, 40m. Follow pitch 5 to the ledge then traverse left and climb a steep face direct. Move left to reach an arete, and climb this trending right on ever easier ground to exit onto the ledge below the summit. © Rockfax

Tissi 1936

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
peterbeaumont 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd The rockfax guide description for pitch 2 is wrong. The local BERNARDI guide has a move left and up for 2 m then back into the crack which is climbed direct at VI- making a more balanced and logical route. The direct finish is givenVI- but V is more like it.otherwise brilliant climbing throughout
The rockfax guide description for pitch 2 is wrong. The local BERNARDI guide has a move left and up for 2 m then back into the crack which is climbed direct at VI- making a more balanced and logical route. The direct finish is givenVI- but V is more like it.otherwise brilliant climbing throughout
budchawla 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd Not the most perfect ascent as we had some logistical issues, climbing in an unfamiliar three etc and 2 dropped shoes and one dropped radio. Also the top pitches were running with water from heavy rain the previous day so not the best conditions, but this would be a great route on another day. Top pitches are great climbing. P1 is terrifying, especially with a backpack on :)
with Andrey Murashov, JRennie
Not the most perfect ascent as we had some logistical issues, climbing in an unfamiliar three etc and 2 dropped shoes and one dropped radio. Also the top pitches were running with water from heavy rain the previous day so not the best conditions, but this would be a great route on another day. Top pitches are great climbing. P1 is terrifying, especially with a backpack on :)
with Andrey Murashov, JRennie
brockers 26 Aug, 2015 Lead First pitch was hard and polished. Second pitch was NOT the grade described in rock fax. More like VI, I went up the LH crack. The long 4th pitch was excellent again VI-
First pitch was hard and polished. Second pitch was NOT the grade described in rock fax. More like VI, I went up the LH crack. The long 4th pitch was excellent again VI-
Maddie 2 Aug, 2014 2nd dog Good to get another long route in. Chimney was fun though I couldn't get a foot to stick on the polish and so had to pull through on the tat. P2 is awesome laybacking, looks scary but jugs everywhere. Same on either 3 or 4. Fell again when we went off route as holds were soaked and committed to the wrong one.
with remus
Good to get another long route in. Chimney was fun though I couldn't get a foot to stick on the polish and so had to pull through on the tat. P2 is awesome laybacking, looks scary but jugs everywhere. Same on either 3 or 4. Fell again when we went off route as holds were soaked and committed to the wrong one.
with remus
Hidden 2 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Kirill 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1, P3, P5, P7. Superb climbing on all pitches. Got a bit lost on the descent, which made it slightly more exciting than we expected.
Led P1, P3, P5, P7. Superb climbing on all pitches. Got a bit lost on the descent, which made it slightly more exciting than we expected.
Hidden 17 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
CurlyStevo ?Aug, 2013 AltLd lead even pitches, first VI-. A Good route and fairly well protected. The polish on pitch 1 does make it a bit less secure but not a huge amount so if you get in the crack at the first opportunity. Pitch 2 the polish is less of a problem but still an issue. After that its fine. Pitch 5 is very very good.
with Kirill
lead even pitches, first VI-. A Good route and fairly well protected. The polish on pitch 1 does make it a bit less secure but not a huge amount so if you get in the crack at the first opportunity. Pitch 2 the polish is less of a problem but still an issue. After that its fine. Pitch 5 is very very good.
with Kirill
alpinist63 24 Jul, 2013 Lead
Lenny ?Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Phil .N
with Phil .N
Hidden 1 Aug, 2012 -
Hidden 1 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
John Nuttall 14 Jul, 2012 AltLd Varied and sustained.
with Andy H
Varied and sustained.
with Andy H
whistler 8 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Good
with Mark Littlewood
Good
with Mark Littlewood
Wil Treasure 5 Jul, 2012 AltLd Horrible chimneys, not a great route, but worthwhile.
Horrible chimneys, not a great route, but worthwhile.
Hidden 22 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
roberts1234567890 12 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Josh Legg
with Josh Legg
Hidden 21 Jun, 2011 AltLd
Em66 ?Jun, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ?Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
steveb2006 21 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with Chris Parkin
with Chris Parkin
SteveMyatt 1 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mark Fairbank
with Mark Fairbank
markfairbank 1 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Seconded the even pitches which were hard work with a bulky sack. Great route though with an easy ab back down.
Seconded the even pitches which were hard work with a bulky sack. Great route though with an easy ab back down.
GraMc 4 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S really nice top section but the bottom is rank and polished
with henward
really nice top section but the bottom is rank and polished
with henward
tatz45 ?Aug, 2008 AltLd
paul79 ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 15 Aug, 2007 Lead
Hidden 2 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
alpinist63 28 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
cem 5 Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S Led odd numbered pitches. 3 hours
with Dave Amos
Led odd numbered pitches. 3 hours
with Dave Amos
chris wyatt ??, 2005 -
with Mike Barclay
with Mike Barclay
Hidden 27 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Jun, 2003 AltLd O/S
John HW ?May, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Mackenzie
with Stuart Mackenzie
NickJH ?Jul, 2000 AltLd O/S
with JThomas
with JThomas
Andy Say 12 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S Pitch 1 bloody desperate!
with jamie smith, andy oxley
Pitch 1 bloody desperate!
with jamie smith, andy oxley
tjekel ??, 1993 -
ajtay ?Aug, 1991 AltLd
with Alan Thomson Matthew Smith
with Alan Thomson Matthew Smith
bobelvedere 12 Jul, 1981 AltLd
with Niels Ole Bernsen
with Niels Ole Bernsen
Mark Kemball 26 Jun, 1979 AltLd
with Wawa
with Wawa
Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set