Rockfax Description
Starting up the lower arete is a popular way of doing this classic and only a little harder than the original version. It also causes fewer problems with the ropes. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The direct start up the arete

Ticklists: Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

Alkis 15/Oct Lead RP

Onsight on the bottom section, I'd done the original before.

with Leona
Hidden 14/Oct 2nd
Hidden 14/Oct 2nd
danJBA 17/Sep Lead O/S
mskngch 03/Sep Lead O/S
pingora 03/Sep 2nd O/S
with Masaki
paul79 27/Aug Lead
Mark Duncan 26/Aug Lead O/S

Good climb. Little pumpy but not too bad with mostly good holds.

with Pete
Cake 26/Aug Lead O/S

Lovely route. Gets slowly steeper and steeper. I didn't do the original because we only had one rope

with Ian Murray
climberchristy 22/Aug Lead

Great route. Better and harder start than the original.

with LMS
LMS 22/Aug 2nd

last route of a great day.. start is harder than neb buttress and finished way out right with a lovely handle to hold, stood on edge of the roof for ages just enjoying it!

with Christy
Dave Musgrove 05/Aug 2nd

Excellent direct line.

with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 05/Aug Lead O/S


with Dad
lucybradbury 22/Jul Lead
karinbradbury 22/Jul 2nd
with Lucy
lucybradbury 22/Jul Lead
lucybradbury 22/Jul Lead
keitht 21/Jul Lead
with Dave Lomas
Droyd 07/Jul Lead O/S

Had done the original before so only onsight for the first half, which felt quite pushy for HVS. Brutish fun above.

Fat Andy Heff 07/Jul 2nd O/S
with Droyd
Hidden 11/Jun 2nd O/S
josefft 03/Jun 2nd O/S
with Simon Mee
justaddpowder 26/May Lead
with Calum
Mats1902 21/May Lead O/S
with Drue
kingfionnbharr 20/May Lead O/S
royle883 29/Apr Lead O/S
mattlyons 20/Apr Lead O/S
with Matt Warlow
RKernan 11/Apr Lead O/S

Fantastic. Great knee bar at the top of the arête. Good jams and great positions.

Wizzy 31/Mar Lead O/S

Brilliant. Perhaps even better than the original

justtoots 15/Mar TR O/S
adi bryant 04/Mar Lead O/S
high peak 1 ?/Mar -
melv 27/Nov/16 Lead rpt
with Fi
George Frisby 27/Nov/16 2nd O/S

Sustained, pumpy and amazing!

with Rowland
rowland penty 27/Nov/16 Lead
bobpilgrem 06/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Colin
colin milton 06/Oct/16 Lead
john lynch 30/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Bethan D
Joel Miller 30/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Tess Bain
tebs 11/Sep/16 2nd rpt
with Tim
HimTiggins 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Bart
Hidden 01/Sep/16 Solo O/S
riff156 29/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Chris Sansum 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Great route. Johnny Dawes led it after me, and loved it too!

with Steve Collard
mrphilipoldham 14/Aug/16 Lead rpt

Boom! Clean straight off. Happy.

with Georgina Watt
Radical-G 14/Aug/16 Lead β
mrphilipoldham 25/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Too pumped to continue at the traverse so lowered off. 5a isn't going to come easy!

with Georgina Watt
mrphilipoldham 25/Jul/16 2nd rpt

Cruised up on second after Georgina finished the lead

with Georgina Watt
Hidden 01/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Neal Jobling 23/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with Mowglee
tebs 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Sam
sgl 18/Jun/16 Lead
with tebs
Hidden 03/Jun/16 -
IanGilbertJones 11/May/16 2nd
JordanRickard 03/May/16 Lead dog
with ElMagz
Andy Moles 28/Apr/16 Solo
joe hallam 21/Apr/16 2nd
with andrew senior
Tom_Shill 10/Apr/16 Lead
Louishmouis 31/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with ben, Felix
Hidden 30/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Clama 30/Mar/16 2nd O/S
pawel suhy 30/Mar/16 TR

Great route! Hard work -very pumpy

with Claudia, Jon
rajeshwarbisht 25/Mar/16 Lead dog
with Reuben Symons
DubyaJamesDubya 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
mrteale 25/Oct/15 2nd
with DanOsb
DanOsb 25/Oct/15 Lead
with Edward
Stroppy 17/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Great route, moves flow really nicely

with Ben Corbey
jamesb101 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Well worth the 3 stars.

with lucy
jshields 04/Oct/15 Lead
Neal Jobling 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb!

with Aline
kleinej 13/Sep/15 2nd dog
with Vince
No? Yes! 12/Sep/15 2nd

Another Rob lead.Felt more like 5A this time following.

Georgie25 30/Aug/15 2nd
Keith Swainson 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Georgie
Dave 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
TobyA 29/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Dave
JHiley 16/Aug/15 Lead RP

Made a right mess of the end this time but managed to squirm on to the handlebar jug.

with Robin
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Ian Saxton 06/Aug/15 2nd
with martin
martinbettridge06 05/Aug/15 Lead
David_Gledson 05/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Alan
No? Yes! 31/Jul/15 2nd

Tough ! Good climb

Hidden 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S
migs493 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Jim Borrington
Deary65 12/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Pumpy but awesome

with Dexter
Dexter JW 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Pumpy, but with some 'interesting' rests. Bit run out to finish to ensure clean accent. Came together, very rewarding. Gear generally pretty good if you can hang around. Awesome route!

JHiley 11/Jul/15 Lead dog

Argh frustrating! Managed the lower arête fine and then had to rest on the crux of the normal route which I'd done clean before. Had forgotten where all the holds are.

with Irena, PCC
Hidden 09/Jul/15 2nd O/S
cem 05/Jul/15 Lead rpt

First time I'd led the direct version although I'd done it before.

eldre070 05/Jul/15 2nd dog

Too much for my weak arms. Very stiff all the way, once swung round left at the block.

with Cem
David Staples 04/Jul/15 2nd dog

Had to rest to get stuck gear

Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Dominic Green 07/Jun/15 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH 07/Jun/15 2nd
Jules Lane 07/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Great climbing, shame I was too weedy to push on to the top section, but got as far as top of the crack on the left before resting, trying again and chickening out as the next section looked both tough and strenuous. Have to come back and bring more stamina...

with Mynydd Paul Justin
Hidden 23/May/15 2nd
Bernie L 19/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
mjeffery 16/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Mr Wild 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
chris fox 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S

superb and pumpy

MarcinGobczynski ??/2015 Lead O/S
lena.drapella 02/Nov/14 2nd RP
with Niels
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with James Hall
Neil McA 05/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with James Hall, Blond Tom, Nick Wallace, Stan
masonwoods101 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
C May 27/Sep/14 2nd
with Nick
nick ferro 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S


djones66 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Thoroughly recommended. Another time I suppose I might try the original indirect start but hen again, the direct start is so much fun I might just repeat it.

with Stve mc D
HarryBowyer 07/Sep/14 2nd β
with Helen Mort
Hidden 27/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/14 2nd
fuzzysheep01 03/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Graham Perry
Teappleby 03/Aug/14 Lead

hard for the grade, felt almost worth E1.

treg 20/Jul/14 Lead

Went up this again to help some lads get their gear after not finishing.

Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead dnf
quickdrawmcraw 01/Jun/14 Lead β
with hannah
froglette 31/May/14 2nd dog
with John Proudfoot
froglette 31/May/14 2nd dog
with John Proudfoot
mountaingoatgirl 17/May/14 2nd
with Alli Brazil, Nick Hawkins
treg 16/May/14 Lead dog

Bummer to have rested on this before the hard looking bit up to the final break/traverse to the ledge. Spent too long placing gear and then anticipated the next bit being tough so took a rest, but actually found the finish straight forward with the crux probably being a balancy move on the initial arete a few metres up.

with Bird
Matt250 30/Mar/14 Lead dog
Budge 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with James from the Club, Ade
Hidden ??/2014 -
ralphio 02/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Found this really pumpy. The holds are all good and its not to technical but there's a lot o hanging on whilst placing gear. Really great climb though very sustained.

maumau 02/Dec/13 2nd O/S
Hardcore Pat 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd
jack01 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great route , tough until the end with loads of gear

with Duncan
Wyrdstone 10/Aug/13 Lead dog
Wayne S 08/Aug/13 2nd
with Deacon
deacondeacon 08/Aug/13 Lead

Climbed up the direct start of this, then the crux of auricle followed by jumping jack longland. A nice way up the buttress

Brown 30/Jul/13 2nd
with James T
clairejane 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

placed far too much (couldn't resist all the options) so a touch slow but lovely flow none the less

Deezel65 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Steep climbing on good holds and good gear. Made tricky by a very sweaty evening

with Mark Bell, Cragtyke
Neil McA 04/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Greg Cunningham, Jake McAdie
MikeLeeds 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Clark
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Roberttaylor 26/Jun/13 2nd O/S
ig248 16/Jun/13 2nd
with Kirill
Hidden 16/Jun/13 Lead β
Kirill 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Harder than it looks. Difficult to find any rests.

with Igor
Darron 09/Jun/13 -
Jonathan Hall 19/May/13 2nd
RM199 19/May/13 2nd O/S
Tamati 19/May/13 Lead
with Jonny
riff156 04/May/13 Lead rpt
with Jo Smith
quickdrawmcraw 04/May/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Darron ??/2013 -
ColinD 15/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Good exciting climbing. Pumpy for a weedy guy like me, took a no hands leg bar rest :)

Richard P Coates 16/Sep/12 2nd O/S
elCapitano 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Coatesy
ipegg 15/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead dog
harold walmsley 28/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Colin Struthers
Hidden 16/Aug/12 2nd
mtempest 08/Aug/12 2nd
with Richard Waltham
Jevans ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
James Oswald 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Cool route, placed too much gear on the upper bit. Enjoyable

jwpil 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
tomsmartacus 18/Jul/12 2nd β
with John Bramwell
Ed morris 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Very steady well protected climbing

Andy Peak 1 19/Jun/12 Lead
Haydn Jones 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Giles1 28/May/12 Lead O/S
with Lucy
Rich Kirby 12/May/12 2nd
with Ruth
dangerousoldfool ?/May/12 2nd O/S

Great direct line. Must lead this.

with Matt
stuaart 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Managed to use a heelhook on the crux of this. Not sure what that is a sign of.

with Neil Redgrave
Les Deakin 15/Mar/12 2nd
with Falko Rech
Falko 15/Mar/12 Lead rpt

So good that I came back for a repeat after only two days! Les had enjoyed the route two days earlier and Al couldn't remember if he'd done this in the 70s - so I offered my services . . .

with Les Deakin, Al W.
Falko 13/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Did the direct start because another team were doing Auricle ('Bubblewrap' and friends). Glad we did because it was delightful. I wish I could award four stars for the route as a whole and cannot understand why I haven't done it before!

with Les Deakin
melonmike 06/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Josh
tom.e ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 2nd
adie84 ??/2012 -
sopaz 06/Nov/11 2nd
Hardonicus 16/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Arrrghhh. Not again, too much pump!

with nick a, Luke Donaldson
buxtoncoffeelover 04/Oct/11 Lead
tigertim 02/Oct/11 2nd
Sebastien Gastaud 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead
Jim Slater 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
max_chan 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with John PCC
ben_250 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Tom
Paul D Jones 26/Jun/11 Lead
with Dave Proctor, Tom Ireson
dprctr 26/Jun/11 Lead β
tom.ireson 26/Jun/11 2nd β

pumpy and sustained for the grade, especially when gear-fiddling. Luckily I got to second it instead!

with Paul Jones, David Proctor
Rosie Henstock 11/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Jun/11 2nd β
deejmonkey 15/May/11 Lead
with Damian
Daymo 15/May/11 2nd dog
with DJ
9fingerjon 17/Apr/11 Lead dog

1 rest, disappointing! Fantastic route though

with James H
Jimbo C 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Very strong line, and very strong pump. The most pumped I've ever been, was very tempted to dog but glad I didn't. I must do some more deadhangs.

with Pete
mary 27/Mar/11 2nd dog

Blummin heck Tony!

with Tony
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
ollie_e ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 27/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Nov/10 TR
jaimer 07/Nov/10 Lead dog
hellboundblr 31/Oct/10 Lead
with LCCC
d_meacher 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Simon White
irish paul 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
ojp 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Dave
tim newton 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with roger bennion
RFWilkie 11/Sep/10 Lead dog

Had to rest before final moves. Very pumpy.

dashitboarder 01/Aug/10 Lead dog

With direct start - had to rest on the rope too pumped.

Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
cem 18/Apr/10 2nd
with Mark O'Neill
Hidden 09/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Peter Holder 19/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/10 2nd O/S
keith leonard ??/2010 -
Alan James - UKC and UKH 18/Oct/09 Lead
MRichardson 12/Sep/09 2nd dog
melonmike 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Em66 12/Sep/09 2nd
with Mike
spacey 11/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Paul Evans 11/Jul/09 Lead
with spacey
Hidden 05/Jul/09 2nd
davidwright 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Sam
hash 25/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead
danoflynn 02/Jan/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
gillybon ??/2009 Lead
Graeme Hammond 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with luke, Duck
Shauna 23/Aug/08 2nd O/S
mullermn 16/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Very nice route

with Monkey
Monk 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S

This is a fantastic route. Really nice moves in a lovely position.

Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd
Becky E 11/May/08 2nd

after attemtping the lead and falling off.

mattyork2 11/May/08 Lead O/S
drysori ??/2008 Lead
Hannah Moulton ??/2008 TR
with Gav
Hidden 02/Sep/07 2nd
Mike_Hayes ?/Sep/07 -
with John Nightingale
mje1398 05/Aug/07 2nd dog
with John M
adam carless 03/Aug/07 2nd
Pythonist 03/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Tim Gould
howlingbaboon 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Roget 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/06 Solo O/S
uphillnow 02/Sep/05 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/05 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
nickcanute ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/04 2nd
Hidden ??/2002 -
goi.ashmore 24/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Billg 24/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Phil McAllistair
Ropeboy 09/Aug/98 Lead
Hidden 10/Oct/93 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 53
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set