Restricted Access
The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn has had a long and troubled past- it wasn't long ago that there was no access and climbing was totally banned. Now thanks to the efforts of Volunteers and Officers the situation has improved and the situation is better than its been for years.
The Behaviour of climbers when visiting the crag is crucial to this situation continuing and improving.
The ownership of the crag varies along its length and more information can be found below, however its safe to assume that climbing is tolerated and is NOT a right. If you climb here, please do so quietly and inconspicuously as possible.
- CENTRAL SECTION- (Great Wall, etc.) From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze. There are new owners and negotiations are underway. While some low level climbing activity appears to be ongoing without any objection, the landowners are very clear that they do not formally give permisson for climbing here and any issues will put a stop to any long term solutions to allow climbing.
- RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, the occupiers of this section of the cliff has recently changed (in 2019) . The new occupiers of this section have told the BMC that they will not object to climbers on this section but again strictly no dogs, all litter to be removed and keep noise to a minimum. Tthere is no permission to remove any vegetation and as the whole cliff is an SSSI it would be illegal to do without formal consent from NRW.
- LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
- Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.
- Do not park below the crag - access should only be form the agreed parking area above the crag. Follow access instructions in the current editon of North Wales Limestone guidebook (or see below).
22m.
A direct and physical line following the overhanging, left-hand side of the Imminent Crisis wall, passing several small overhangs, before finishing, up the headwall, to the right of the arête and the left of Imminent Departees.
After a committing start, there is excellent, but hard-won gear for the whole of the route.
Start a few metres left of the starting corner of Imminent Crisis/Departees, at the blunt arête beneath an overhang with a short crack and small hanging slab.
1. Pull up, using the positive, pocketed crack, and after a few moves, a shallow corner at the top of the hanging slab, beneath a roof, is reached. There is some small and fiddly gear here that may steady the nerve. A few awkward, and committing moves right (poor footholds), enable the overhang to be passed, and after a move or two up, you're stood beneath a small overhang. Pull directly over this overhang, until beneath another overhang! Pull strenuously over this, to reach a good break. Pull directly through, yet another overhang, on good, but small and quite difficult to spot, holds. Climb slightly right, making your way up a vague scoop, to the best rest on the route, beneath (yes, you’ve guessed it), another overhang. Pull the roof direct. Once established on the headwall, a jink left, then, just before you get tempted too far left, another back right, passing the obvious mono-pocket, enables you to reach a small corner with fine holds and a peg (very good, traditional blade peg, not a pegbolt). Using crimps, pull past the peg, and with one more tricky move, finish at the top of the wall, directly above the small corner and peg.
After a committing start, there is excellent, but hard-won gear for the whole of the route.
Start a few metres left of the starting corner of Imminent Crisis/Departees, at the blunt arête beneath an overhang with a short crack and small hanging slab.
1. Pull up, using the positive, pocketed crack, and after a few moves, a shallow corner at the top of the hanging slab, beneath a roof, is reached. There is some small and fiddly gear here that may steady the nerve. A few awkward, and committing moves right (poor footholds), enable the overhang to be passed, and after a move or two up, you're stood beneath a small overhang. Pull directly over this overhang, until beneath another overhang! Pull strenuously over this, to reach a good break. Pull directly through, yet another overhang, on good, but small and quite difficult to spot, holds. Climb slightly right, making your way up a vague scoop, to the best rest on the route, beneath (yes, you’ve guessed it), another overhang. Pull the roof direct. Once established on the headwall, a jink left, then, just before you get tempted too far left, another back right, passing the obvious mono-pocket, enables you to reach a small corner with fine holds and a peg (very good, traditional blade peg, not a pegbolt). Using crimps, pull past the peg, and with one more tricky move, finish at the top of the wall, directly above the small corner and peg.
Nick Bullock, Glenda Huxter, Zylo, Dave Towse 16/Jul/2023.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pegbolter | 2 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: A line so forced it may feel like being frogmarched. Only the blinkered need apply. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A line so forced it may feel like being frogmarched. Only the blinkered need apply. |
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| Jordan B | 17 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Huge undercut exploded in my my face on the onsight. I got launched into a tree which partly broke my fall but I mainly broke off a huge portion of said tree.... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Huge undercut exploded in my my face on the onsight. I got launched into a tree which partly broke my fall but I mainly broke off a huge portion of said tree.... |
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Route of Interest
Quick Step Direct Finish
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Craig y Forwyn)