Rockfax Description
A brilliant sustained exercise tackling the leaning groove in the back of the cave. Summon your energy levels and keep some for the final moves before the steadier headwall above the first lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This takes the obvious groove up the back of the main cave. Don't be put off by the sometimes damp holds at the start - the rest is fantastic. Start slightly left of the groove, moving up to gain the conglomerate ledge for a good hands off rest. From here some fancy footwork and a few big moves allow progress higher into the groove and (hopefully) to an intermediate belay where the angle eases. For an extra pump, and the full tick, continue up the recently-regeared No Epoxy Au Oxley to a higher belay.

Goi Ashmore 19/Apr/1996

Ticklists: South Wales Sevens, Rockfax South Wales Top 50, Becky's ticklist, 2017.

Ed morris 01/Dec/17 Lead O/S

Really cool, felt like Spain, would be great anywhere. Led putting clips in.

with Martin
WillAndrew 05/Nov/17 Lead dog
with Ali
Tophe 25/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Jonny P
Q.Estelles 28/Aug/17 Lead dog
Tom92 19/Aug/17 Lead β
Pippa 12/Aug/17 Lead RP
with Richard Bennett
Cassidy 15/Jul/17 Lead RP

Slippy wet slimefest, but amazing climbing. Must be great when dry!

with Helen Cassidy, Nicholas Ecoffet
Duncan Campbell 30/Jun/17 Lead RP

3rd go. Fluffed the flash then slipped off on second go. 3rd go went ok bar one cut-loose. Amazing 3D climbing found it confusing and intimidating.

with sam Harvie
Wood for Trees 30/Jun/17 Lead dnf

Great fight on a flash go up to the apex of the roof but got my body position wrong and couldn't reach the handle bar. An important rock climb indeed, so impressive.

with Sam , Duncan , Flo Barton
NDD 30/Jun/17 Lead
soph 30/Jun/17 Lead dog
with Nick Dubost
Stuart William 24/Jun/17 Lead

Awesome! So good! Really classy climbing. Fell at the start of the groove proper on the flash attempt. Second go proved that I hadn't bothered to learn the top beta at all and I fluffed it before the hole. Third go went like a dream and felt easy (until I thought it was all over too early and had a mare on the final jugs by the chain).

with Jamie M
jammy4536 24/Jun/17 Lead RP

Absolutely unexpected. Really good route and managed to get it second go surprisingly. Definitely the highlight of the trip

with Tom Jordan
asol 23/Jun/17 Lead RP
with Euge
James Nott 22/Jun/17 Lead dog
Trisha Murphy 22/Jun/17 Lead RP
with Vikkie
richiebongo 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
PaulTclimbing 03/Jun/17 Lead dog
with Rich, Jon
Adam Booth 30/May/17 Lead RP

2nd tie in, 2nd RP

Hidden 30/May/17 Lead dog
Ed Booth 30/May/17 Lead β
AlexanderWilliams 27/May/17 Lead dog

Second attempt on this route. Needed to figure out the lower crux with a rest but went to top from there clean. It should go on third attempt. Can't wait to get back!

dclarkson 27/May/17 Lead dnf
AlexanderWilliams 07/May/17 Lead dog

First time on this route. Managed to try twice in the day and second attempt got me to the top of the full route including extension. Super pumped with rests, will definitely be returning to dial this one in. Incredible steep route, what a climb.

Dale Comley 06/May/17 Lead O/S

Nice climbing, makes sense to go to the top

with Sam Brown, Charlie Low
Josh Lewis 01/May/17 Lead RP

So good to do this. Climbed it twice for photos... I mean training.

tommccluskey 01/May/17 Lead RP

To the top - 3rd go today after trying a few times years ago

with James Taylor, Tom, Imogen, Joshua Lewis
Hidden 29/Apr/17 Lead RP
dannygale 25/Apr/17 Lead RP

Got it second go. Pumped out first go

with Jon Buters
joe1joe1joe2 15/Apr/17 Lead RP

I came back to get it. I was putting the draws in for some mates and before I knew it I managed to get the top. 2nd attempt. Such a fun and pumpy route. Just remember to bridge!

John_Beesley 15/Apr/17 Lead β

What an amazing line. First 7B flash too!

dom_joyce265 15/Apr/17 Lead RP

Second go. Thought I was going to fall on the final section.

phillipwright 15/Apr/17 Lead β

Really fun route pulling through big holds in the cave

joe1joe1joe2 08/Apr/17 Lead dog

Just very pumpy. Tired from a heavy morning at Oxwich trying Bitchin'. Definitely one to come back to.

dom_joyce265 08/Apr/17 Lead dog

Last climb of the day, far too tired to make any sort of decent attempt. Couple of wet jugs near the top but doesn't change the game. Would like to come back to it.

Hidden 13/Feb/17 Lead β
Billg 26/Nov/16 Lead β


with Ollie, Nik Goile
Ollie B 06/Nov/16 Lead RP

3rd go. First was an OS, and fell off. 2nd I fucked up where to go (forgot about a massive hold). 3rd time lucky.

with Robyn, A.Rosier
thrutch 23/Sep/16 Lead dog
with Sven
jonsey1995 16/Aug/16 Lead dnf
with Cat
Hidden 16/Aug/16 2nd dog
LRob 16/Aug/16 Lead β
littleluke 05/Aug/16 Lead RP

2nd go!

wilchivs 30/Jul/16 Lead dog

First go on this - lead it with perhaps three or four rests and then top roped it to get the draws back. Felt better the second time with an idea about crucial feet on the side wall. Hopefully a RP for next time.

natetan 27/Jul/16 Lead O/S


Hidden 27/Jul/16 Lead O/S
steveanthony 12/Jul/16 Lead RP

Steep, awesome

with Chris Shepherd
waynekinrade ?/Jul/16 Lead β
chiverstom 31/May/16 Lead RP

Felt 7b+ to me, may be easier in good conditions with dry pockets etc but not sure if this is ever the case? Wicked route none the less - cant be many lines this good at 7b in the UK

with Alice
Glyn 22/May/16 Lead O/S
with Amy
Tomar 30/Apr/16 Lead RP

Went fairly easily 2nd go today but had a go once a couple of years ago and found it hard then. All the way to the top for added pump and the proper tick. Awesome.

ian bryant ??/2016 -
ian bryant ??/2016 -
adam 24 17/Oct/15 Lead rpt

1 go to put draws then did it next go. Very pleased to tick this great route. Cruz felt miles easier this time

OERees 03/Oct/15 Lead rpt
DaveFidler 27/Sep/15 Lead β
adam 24 26/Sep/15 Lead dog

Tried twice. Very confusing to work out the 3D sequence, too tired after that, keen for another go though. Ace route!

OERees 25/Sep/15 Lead rpt
mhairi thorburn 21/Sep/15 Lead RP

Tough! Quality though. Sunny bay - Costa Del Gower. 2nd go.

OERees 17/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Luuuuuke 13/Sep/15 Lead β
with Si
peaches69 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S


with luke
Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead RP
Matt Cooke 30/Aug/15 Lead RP
GrahamGiles 30/Aug/15 Lead RP

Got to the 1st anchor on 3rd attempt despite some key holds being wet and even slipped off a pinch going for the handle but managed a miraculous save. Rain was hammering down and came off at the slab which is heinous in the rain

Qisheng Xie 30/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Graham Giles, Joe Taylor
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead β
Tomas P 29/Aug/15 Lead RP

The steepest route I have ever tried. This one will test your endurance!

OERees 15/Aug/15 Lead rpt
millsy 24/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Awesome line, great climbing.

with Jo Fullman
bigie bob 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
TomJ 25/May/15 Lead dog
with DanC
hankyc 24/May/15 Lead dnf

Absolutely sopping and clayey which is a Shane cus it looks amazing! Will have to come back

Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 19/Apr/15 Lead RP

Hardest I've fought in 2015! Great line. To the top.

with Tom Jordan, Jenni
mikeshewring 08/Apr/15 Lead RP
nicolat ?/Apr/15 Lead β
with James Mitchell
mikeshewring ?/Mar/15 Lead dog
with sharpie
Hidden 21/Feb/15 Lead rpt
Justin T 20/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, best I've done at the Gower. Bone dry bar very top pocket despite recent rain and seepage on other lines.

with Nancy
Tim W 04/Oct/14 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Oct/14 Lead O/S
ollie_e 27/Sep/14 Lead RP

The ascent involved lots of blood and shouting. Horribly greasy!

with Tomar
Chubbard 21/Sep/14 Lead RP

2 working goes and then 4th redpoint. Top route.

with Tomar
LucasHarazin 30/Aug/14 Lead RP
just one more 30/Aug/14 Lead dog
chrisscutt 23/Aug/14 Lead RP

1st red point, one of the best 7b's I've done! So much fun!

with ant
anthony henry 17/Aug/14 Lead RP

Great route. So steep

with tomar
Hidden 17/Aug/14 Lead dog
Sarah Black 03/Aug/14 Lead rpt
brices 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Went all the way to the top of crag today. Good glory climbing doesnt add to difficulty but well worth doing

with Llinos
Jim Tan ?/Jun/14 Lead RP
alek 05/May/14 Lead dog

2 attempts

owain86 18/Apr/14 Lead RP

Climbed twice, the second time with the extension to the top. Awesome route!

eugeneth 18/Apr/14 Lead dog

Did it with 1 rest. RP time

Wendy 12/Apr/14 Lead RP

An amazing line.

with Llinos
brices 12/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Llinos
Kyuzo ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
brices 30/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Few training laps

with Llinos
Adam_42 23/Mar/14 Lead dog

Need to do some serious stamina training to make this more than just a pipe dream! Cracking line.

with Beth Frugtniet, Ben
quiffhanger 07/Oct/13 Lead RP

Awesome! 2nd go. Greasy. Close to the on-sight but pumped out just before the end of the hard stuff.

monsteratt 01/Sep/13 Lead RP

2nd go. Pretty chuffed. Some cool moves

with Bill, Carl
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead RP
Billg 01/Sep/13 Lead RP
with Monty, Carl Watkins
keithpeck 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
Daniel 24/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Tom
Hidden 07/Aug/13 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Aug/13 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Aug/13 Lead β
owain86 24/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Alun, Greg
Hidden 19/Jul/13 Lead RP
OERees 05/Jul/13 Lead RP
Dave Cale ?/Jul/13 Lead RP
PaulTclimbing ?/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Pete
guy xavier percival 31/May/13 Lead RP
with paul
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 19/May/13 Lead dog

Very cool. Would like to try again when it is dry and I'm feeling strong - proper anti-style!

with Jenni
Hidden 17/May/13 2nd dog
khawk 03/May/13 Lead β
with DT
Hidden 03/May/13 Lead RP
partz 01/May/13 Lead RP

2nd RP. Awesome climbing, first 7b!

tskelhon ?/May/13 Lead RP
partz 28/Apr/13 Lead dog

First effort. Got to the top atleast, start working on Wednesday...

brices 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

on someone elses draws, brilliant route very 3d and interesting climbing

with Joe Day
DorsetGareth 18/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Getting dark!

chris wyatt 14/Mar/13 Lead RP

Wasn't expecting it but just kept going to the top. Fine route

with John Bullock
will6459 17/Feb/13 Lead RP
Jon Garside 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Excellent route, very unique for the UK.

with Becky
Hidden 28/Aug/12 Lead RP
MorganPreece 02/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Training Laps!

with Matt Smith
OERees 29/May/12 Lead dog

Greasy holds once again!

Kevster 06/May/12 Lead dog
Cailean Harker 01/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Probably the best 7b I have done in this country. Amazing

OERees 14/Feb/12 Lead dog
OERees 14/Jan/12 Lead dnf

Reached the third bolt, on a very cold day, but was in the wrong mentality to continue with the rest of the route - must come back when it's a bit warmer!

Dan_Carroll 18/Dec/11 Lead RP

to the top this time

Jordan B 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Naomi Buys
Alex Mason 16/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Fucking awesome, dreamt of a feature like this.

with Tommy Cole, Chris Carroll, Eugene Theron
Caspian Johnson 14/Jun/11 Lead RP

wicked route

with josh price, james andrews
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead RP
Dan_Carroll 10/May/11 Lead RP

ah yes. brilliant fun if a little bit of a struggle.

with caspian
Ally Smith 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with GrantB
DafSWMC 17/Apr/11 Lead RP

First attempted at SWMC Beginner's Day 2009, completed at SWMC Beginner's Day 2011.

with Tim, Christian
Christian Reynish 17/Apr/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 -
Caspian Johnson 29/Sep/10 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Sep/10 Lead RP
James Marshall ?/Sep/10 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead
crispyboy 30/Aug/10 Lead dog
with sean cullen
d_meacher 30/Aug/10 2nd dog
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 29/Aug/10 TR dog
colesy 14/Aug/10 Lead RP

Second go.

_m.cox_ ?/Aug/10 2nd β
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead RP
RD ?/Jul/10 Lead
MorganPreece 06/Jun/10 Lead β

Good stuff, really wet and greasy had to come down climb from 3rd clip and wait for it to dry up, but really fun solid 7b! but a jug fest! if you have endurance its a gift at the grade!

with Will
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead dog
irish paul 05/Jun/10 Lead
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead RP
Tim W 06/Mar/10 Lead dnf
rhoslynfrugtniet ?/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 28/Feb/10 Lead RP
irish paul 14/Feb/10 Lead dog
with Julian
AshWH ??/2010 Lead β
selman 24/May/09 Lead RP
with Connor Bybee
BicepAndrews 24/May/09 Lead RP

first 7b.

with Connor Bybee
Christian Reynish 10/May/09 2nd dnf
irish paul 09/May/09 Lead
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead dnf
simonr 01/May/09 Lead RP
BicepAndrews 23/Apr/09 Lead dog


Hidden 23/Mar/09 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead RP
Billg 21/Mar/09 Lead β

Al Rosier's beta gets me up another route!

jfreeman 22/Apr/08 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2008 -
stuwelly85 ?/Nov/06 Lead dog
adrianjenner ?/Feb/06 2nd dog
Gus ??/2004 Lead
with garan powerman, luisa giles, Rich Pickford
goi.ashmore 19/Apr/96 Lead RP

In the sopping wet. First Ascent.

with Simon Coles, James Tracey
42 users have this on their wishlist
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set