UKC

Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

51m, 2 pitches. Committing on a incoming tide, this climb is rising rightward girdle traverse of the western face starting at the square corner of Entropy, crossing Oil Me Up to Oz at half height to eventually reach the stance of Racing Skies.
1 30m 5b Climb the right arĂȘte of the corner for 7 metres to where it is possible to break right to take a rising travers line at half height to eventually reach the stance of racing skies (5 metres left of the stance of Zeppelin.
2 21m 6a Climb up to the start of the groove above and follow it past a peg to the top as for Racing Skies

R Neath S Quinton AL 05/Jun/2023.

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Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Route of Interest
Zeppelin

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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