Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Rockfax Description
From the start of Sweet FA, move out rightwards and up the wall to a high bolt and then the midway break. Finish up the easier shallow groove above to a lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
From CC Guide
Ticklists
CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6As with stars near Bristol , High in the grade near Bristol
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| salexc | 9 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Gnarly at the bottom due to the quite high first clip; I used a clipstick, a bouldering mat would also help. Commitment is needed! If you go for it it's good pulling and a buzz to complete. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Gnarly at the bottom due to the quite high first clip; I used a clipstick, a bouldering mat would also help. Commitment is needed! If you go for it it's good pulling and a buzz to complete. |
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| Johnlenham | 15 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Nice climb but over pretty quickly | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Nice climb but over pretty quickly |
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| WyeValleyTashMan | 7 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bloody hard start! Short boulder problem on polished and greasy holds but once the second bolt is clipped it's over. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bloody hard start! Short boulder problem on polished and greasy holds but once the second bolt is clipped it's over. |
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| Fellmonkey | 23 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: 23/04/19 First bolt hanger and nut appear to have been removed from the bolt itself and were on the floor beneath. Didn't climb so couldn't say what condition of the bolt is, but didn't visibly look damaged | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 23/04/19 First bolt hanger and nut appear to have been removed from the bolt itself and were on the floor beneath. Didn't climb so couldn't say what condition of the bolt is, but didn't visibly look damaged |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry
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