UKC

240m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good alternative to the popular Comici route, which shares the final pitches on the arete. Start below a ramp of grey rock (the furthest right of the possible starts to the Comici route).
1) III+, 20m. Climb the ramp rightwards moving slightly back left to a belay.
2) III+, 40m. Move left, climb a short corner then continue almost horizontally left before climbing a second short corner and stepping left to the belay. The Comici route branches out left from here.
3) IV-, 25m. Climb diagonally right, heading for a white mark on the rock. Continue to a belay below a chimney.
4) IV-, 30m. Follow the chimney keeping on its right, move right around a chockstone to a stance above it.
5) IV+, 30m. Climb the polished wall above, move left then climb direct up a slab. Trend left to a belay.
6) III+, 30m. Continue left to join the arete, then follow the arete to a ledge.
7) IV-, 30m. Continue direct from the ledge, keeping close to but just left of the arete, to a stance on a small pulpit.
8) III, 40m. Climb direct then slightly left up easier ground to the summit. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Cuthbert 5 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great intro to the area. Never demanding, but usual route finding issues, and some boldness. Much less chossy then most routes at this grade in the Dollies. Very fine situations and views at the top. easy short raps off the back into chossy decent gully, and very steady path back. Almost classic...
Show beta
βeta: Great intro to the area. Never demanding, but usual route finding issues, and some boldness. Much less chossy then most routes at this grade in the Dollies. Very fine situations and views at the top. easy short raps off the back into chossy decent gully, and very steady path back. Almost classic...

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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Via Maria/Mariakante

Grade: IV+ ***
(Sass Pordoi)

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