125m, 4 pitches. Park at week parking spot just below switchbacks on road. Climb can be seen from road (5 min walk in!), first pitch is up the easy rock below the climb proper. Head left up crack/ramp at start of first pitch. Interest on first pitch dwindles after those first few moves. Quite bold at the start. 2nd (crux) pitch starts at the ledge, which can be traversed into if avoiding first pitch. Follow the crack up, then traverse left to belay stance. Fairly good gear. Committing 4a/4b move at start of 3rd pitch on good gear. Straightforward after that. 4th pitch starts at ledge, go straight up. Poss to link 3&4, but scope for good belay at top is poor. Better gear for belay at top of pitch 3.

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Classic Far Northwest, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Easter 2012, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Ultimate Scottish Rock, The Great Gumclub Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 09/Jul AltLd O/S
David Staples 09/Jul AltLd G/U

Fell on the 4a move leading the 1st pitch! What a plonker... Amazing route otherwise.

Violinist 26/Jun Lead O/S

Belter. Traverse didn't feel like the crux though. Pro felt a bit sparse but solid below the traverse.

with Kirsty
kirsty_t 26/Jun 2nd O/S

SURELY thee most beautiful belaying view in the UK?!

with Ben
Hidden 20/Jun Lead O/S
JessWilliams 05/Jun AltLd
with Jingjie, Oonagh
ian d f ?/Jun AltLd O/S
with TimCul
meanderthal 31/May AltLd O/S
MD 29/May 2nd dnf

Rained off after first pitch

with Jo
Hidden 26/May Lead
Hidden 09/May Lead
Si 07/May AltLd

After work hit. Quite blustery winds and just losing the sun. Fantastic position and enjoyable climbing

with Martyn, beckycoles
Shaw Brown 06/May AltLd

Top pitches a bit confusing and disappointing but the second pitch is so good it doesn't matter. Well worth doing.

judith neaves 06/May AltLd
Steve Woollard 29/Apr AltLd
with Steve Thorpe
Hidden 05/Apr AltLd
Severus 09/Oct/16 AltLd
liamando 09/Oct/16 AltLd

Nice solid rock, shame its so small but awesome climbing in a stunning valley

with K-Bo
duncanbutler 09/Oct/16 AltLd
with Severus
Hidden 09/Oct/16 AltLd
BenRyle 04/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Crest Jewel 20/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Kenny Wright, Lily Powell-Rowe
Hidden 20/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/16 AltLd
Dougbart 17/Jun/16 Lead
with Gregor
Garry_C 09/Jun/16 2nd

Nice initial moves on pitch 1 and 3 but very short lived, the real climbing is to be had on pitch 2, a brilliant pitch! Being the guinea pig for Jess, would love to come back and get pitch 2 for myself

with Jess Ainslie, Guy Martin
BnB 07/Jun/16 -
Cecilewannaclimb 07/Jun/16 AltLd
Hidden 05/Jun/16 Lead
Liam Ingram 02/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Fiona Mossman
CaelanB 27/May/16 AltLd O/S
with scott G
Hidden 27/May/16 AltLd O/S
eaf4 09/May/16 -
with Gracie
KendalIanO 07/May/16 Lead O/S

Led all of this in sunshine and strong winds. Second pitch really delicate.

with Mick Nunwick
chmckay 03/May/16 AltLd O/S
alifin 19/Mar/16 2nd
Piglet69 19/Mar/16 2nd

with guide

with alifin
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
Darron ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
Hugh Macgregor 04/Oct/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/15 Lead
Hidden 10/Sep/15 AltLd
Ian Jones 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Alarmingly rounded. Great position and midge free.

with John Mcdonald
Chris wilson 22/Aug/15 Lead

Nice day out on great rock. P2 and the start of P3 have good lines and climbing but the rest has too much scrambling and no definate line to be worth ***. The delicate traverse at the end of P2 is not as well protected you would hope for given the guidebook description.

with Forbes
clams ?/Aug/15 Lead

Snatched after Cioch Nose just as the rain was coming in. Missed out P1. Awesome day out

CatMc ?/Aug/15 2nd
with clams
bigbobbyking 15/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
swmackey 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Sarah Winder
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
LardClimber ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Nic Dynes
Robin Nichols 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Roger
Roget 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

Led 1st 2 pitches

with robin, jim
s kennedy 14/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Josh
markfairbank 09/May/15 AltLd O/S
Anne Gumbley 09/May/15 AltLd
fuzzysheep01 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S
MattKettle 07/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Tony Little 09/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Geoff f
Quad 08/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
arose 12/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Solo
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jun/14 -
Hidden 30/May/14 2nd
Hidden 29/May/14 AltLd O/S
erbridger 14/May/14 AltLd
with nedly14
ned_85 14/May/14 AltLd
maria85 22/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Windy day! Good route, would have been better if warmer... First pitch seems a little pointless.

with Jules
Hidden ??/2014 -
danimal88 13/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

piotr lead in trainers... I thought it was quite hard. good climbing though

with piotr
whistler 13/Oct/13 AltLd rpt

Superb! Sun, Cold, Grip, Banter.

jonnie3430 30/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Carol
Carol Goodall 30/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Nice moves on good rock.

Elsier 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Adrian
brianrunner 09/Jun/13 AltLd

hot sunny day. good climbing. first pitch is easy climbing but longer than 50m , maybe 60m, so was worth splitting at a midway ledge.

with martina
holly138 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom B
Roberttaylor 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Triggalicious 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom E
Hidden 07/Jun/13 AltLd
The Big Sender 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
alexmcmillan 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Eleanor Dow
Craig Holden 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Robbie
maryleese 06/Jun/13 AltLd
with Bobby Greig
eloise 09/May/13 2nd O/S

With Ian and Helen.

Hidden 12/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Stuzz 20/Feb/13 AltLd rpt
with Chris Hingly
alibrightman ??/2013 -
sparbus 16/Aug/12 AltLd
with dave porter
BallsOfSteel 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
ClimbingGlen 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch and 4th Led. interesting Traverse.

jess 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with glen dickson
peter.herd 18/Jul/12 AltLd
with Marcus Brown
Hidden 18/Jul/12 AltLd
SallyReeves89 18/Jul/12 AltLd
with Rory Brown, Rosie Macgill
iceicebaby 16/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
DavPk 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 and 4.

mikesuth 07/Jul/12 AltLd

A bit breezy. Definitely the better option than the CIC which was wet. Nice camping and dining in Shieldaig. Led 1 and 3.

sophiecb 16/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Ideal easy walk in for a mountain route. A driech, cold and windy day. Excellent rock, would have been better had we been able to feel our fingers! A couple of spicy initial moves on the first pitch. Led pitches 1 & 3.

with Scooter
Moonstone Hippy 09/Jun/12 2nd

Wow, what a traverse on to the belay ledge!

with John W
John Workman 09/Jun/12 Lead

First ascent by Tom Patey in early 1960's - SOLO -impressive.

with Geoff
DerwentDiluted 04/Jun/12 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
NB Pixel 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Icy gale, frozen feet & found P1 scary enough that I bottled P2 lead, but then followed Harri up and led the much easier P3.

with Harri!
Harri777 02/Jun/12 AltLd

Led p1 & 2

with Naomi
simonty ?/Jun/12 2nd
Abi Chard 27/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
Mapleleaf 04/May/12 AltLd
with Mark Goran
Chad123 29/Apr/12 Lead O/S

A great route, interest on all three pitches, some airy positions and quite tough for grade - first pitch is more like 4c, second almost 5a and tough 4b move on top pitch too. Short, sharp cruxes though, plenty of easier ground....perfect walk in too!

with Emily
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
Patzl ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
steve prior ??/2012 AltLd
with Roger C
Patzl ??/2012 -
xusa 08/Nov/11 2nd O/S
nowler 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
ZA 02/Oct/11 Lead
with Ainhoa
martinh13 18/Sep/11 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 18/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
kim.mulji 08/Sep/11 AltLd dog

Wet lower and upper pitches. Middle pitch initially very greasy in rain/drizzle. Both I and Ian climbed up 2nd pitch, and backed off as too committing in the wet. Kim led second pitch finally, with no trouble!

oscaig 08/Sep/11 AltLd dog

Done in 3 pitches on damp drizzly, grey afternoon. Bit of messing about up and down and swopping the lead on middle crux pitch. Long broken and rambling top and bottom pitches detract a little from overall route.

Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead
cuthill76 09/Jul/11 Lead

The first several metres of the first pitch are not 4a, probably 4c. Traverse is delicate.

Stuzz 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 (crux), Soloed last pitch to the top. Lovely route but the difficulties are rather short lived for a 4 pitch route. Still well worth it though!

with Chris Hingly
dctarrant2000 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Polly Tarrant
Hidden 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd
alkira ??/2011 -
with kerry atkey
Oliver Hopper ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
peter fetlar ??/2011 Lead O/S
with julie
chapmand 19/Sep/10 AltLd
with Suzie Hatchell, Scott Webster
MoWalker3 03/Sep/10 -

left the double cream for the strawberries in the carpark, duh

with chrissy
chrissy 03/Sep/10 2nd
with Mo
oliverk 15/Aug/10 Lead
MaxR 02/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Toby
tobyk 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/10 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Westy
Captain Solo 29/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with Kenny
Hidden 29/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jun/10 AltLd
whistler 02/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Best VS I've ever done!

with Anna
Anna_wells 02/Jun/10 AltLd
with pete
Simon Caldwell 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch - 45m of easy climbing according to the guidebook, but it's actually about 65m so I belayed (with 60m ropes) just below the terrace. And if you take the line in the topo, it's not 'easy' but 4c! I went slightly right at about 4a/b. I then led the 4c crux pitch, easy for the grade but nicely exposed. Carmen led the next 4b pitch, and I led the easy ground to the top (made it harder by following a wide crack up the steep wall to the right, about 4b). A good route, but not great. If you run the 4c and 4b sections together (as per the 1995 guide) then it's 1 good pitch with a pitch of scrambling on either side.

with Carmen
hazeysunshine 25/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Ann-Marie
The Reaper 11/May/10 Lead O/S

Only just managed the walk in. In much pain today.

abbeywall 06/May/10 AltLd

led 2 and 4

with K
Hidden 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
ZA 18/Apr/10 Lead
with Ian Robinson, smcw
smcw ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/10 2nd
ZA ?/Mar/10 2nd
with Ian Robinson, smcw
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
colinthrelfall ??/2010 -
thrutch 27/Aug/09 Lead

Very wet, but low in grade. The kids did the first pitch.

with helen
cliffy 12/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Combes
Hidden 07/Aug/09 AltLd
tom.e ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Claire
Wilbur 16/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Done with Iain and Blane. Lead P3 as per SMC book (4b pitch). Think the description in Scottish rock is a bit weird, SMC has a much better description of pitches although be warned that the lengths of pitch are way out! Good lead by Blane on the crux pitch. Awesome red sandstone - i will definitely be back for more of this! Fair enough at 3 stars and bang on for VS.

with SFM (Blane)
catt 16/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Guide book says this is 40m. It's more like 70m to the start of the crux pitch so we split it on a lower terrace. Perfect rock and great climbing the whole way.

with Will, Blane
Stewart B 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Brilliant middle pitch!

with Chris Everett
Hidden 25/Jun/09 AltLd
SWalls 25/Jun/09 AltLd
Lawrie Brand 12/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
errrrm? 07/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3, terrific climb.

with gaz h
Stuart Macfarlane 06/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Jeanie led pitches 1 & 3.

with Jeanie
Hidden 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
benclimbing 02/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Lorenzo Antolovi
iceicebaby 31/May/09 2nd O/S

led the easy stuff before and after the VS bit.

SWalls 16/May/09 AltLd

Linked two crux pitches. A bit of ropedrag though.

frecro 16/May/09 Lead O/S

lead pitches 2,3,4. Felt very hard in the wind!

with Mike Cross
t_stork 16/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve Walls
daftdazza ?/May/09 2nd
Mr.Billiams 18/Apr/09 AltLd

Great Route... left my rock shoes at the top (which I didn't discover until at Diabeag the next day, resulting in an unexpected road trip!)

with Russell
decs 18/Apr/09 -

Direct start E1 5b

with Paul
Ken Applegate 14/Apr/09 AltLd

Great route, and fantastic location! Crux pitch is definitely 4c.

climbing_wiggy 21/Mar/09 2nd β
with John Vehnier, Martin, Leon
Lenny 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Martin, Paul
andymoin 07/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Warren
Hidden 07/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
jl 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Penny
pennyb 26/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Jon
veletron 21/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,3 & 4 (did top two together) leaving the crux pitch 2 to Jim. Interesting climbing without many positive handholds on pitch 2, but with loads of friction. Interesting few moves at the start of the first pitch (going left up the ramp).

with Jim Shanks
hamish2016 12/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with chris burn
Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd
alan wilson ?/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with n smith
Hidden 30/May/08 Lead
Hidden 24/May/08 AltLd
Hidden 18/May/08 AltLd O/S
Phill_ Thompson ?/Apr/08 AltLd
with Lucy Prins
TrollJester ??/2008 Lead O/S
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
CurlyStevo ??/2008 AltLd
IanMcC 29/Sep/07 AltLd
with ColinB
thebat 21/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Giles
gdb4060 ?/Aug/07 AltLd
with Dave
Bob M 22/Jun/07 AltLd
with Stewart Walker
Hidden 12/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Ann Sanderson
Hidden 01/Jun/07 2nd
sparkass ?/May/07 AltLd O/S

Scary VS

timmy-ts ??/2007 -
mshorter ??/2007 AltLd
with dunc
tallthinmonkey ?/Jul/06 2nd
with Ben Wallace
ruggystunts 07/Jun/06 AltLd
with Kev
Harry Ellis ?/Jun/06 -
with Trefor Hughes
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead
hlegge ??/2006 2nd
Matt crawford ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Roland Ascroft
tcn_2002 ??/2006 Lead

Not a fan of sandstone, a great route though

kjbix ??/2006 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/05 AltLd
Wicamoi ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
with Matt
Hidden 22/May/05 AltLd O/S
aulda 10/May/05 Lead O/S
with John Mac
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 05/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca
Captain Solo 02/May/04 Lead
with Karen
Sandy P ?/May/04 AltLd
with LukeO
Hidden ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/May/02 2nd
Yourlead 23/Sep/01 2nd
with Graham Penny
Darragh ?/May/01 -
with Hanna
brianrunner ??/2000 -
Lone Rider ??/2000 -
Mal Grey ?/Sep/99 2nd

First multi-pitch in years, so gibbered.

with Tardis
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd O/S
Bruce Kerr 22/Jul/97 AltLd
with Mike Burt
Dave Musgrove Jnr 10/Mar/96 Lead
with Emmy McCowen
Hidden ?/May/95 Lead O/S
rogerskews ?/Jun/94 AltLd
with Martin Coward
pingora 14/May/94 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Hidden ??/1994 Solo
CMacD ??/1994 -
Raggar 23/May/93 2nd
with Steve B, Jon B
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/93 Solo
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Martin Bennett 22/May/76 -
with JD
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 57
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set