Rockfax Description
A big, committing climb right up the middle of the cliff finishing on the arete of the huge central slab. A very serious climb even when clean and dry. Start just left of the massive rubble heap, below a widening crack.
1) 4c, 20m. Move up over steep grass to the base of the crack. Climb the crack, which is thin to start, to a stance on the left at a large ledge.
2) 4c, 16m. Poor rock. Climb the corner on the left and work back right to a stance on a ledge next to the arete.
3) 5a, 45m. Move right, around the arete, to a vertical crack and take this to its end. Move up the wall above until it is possible to traverse leftwards to the arete. Climb the long slabby edge of the arete with little protection to the top. A serious pitch. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Culm - When the tide's in., Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
LDJ 17 Jul AltLd 1st pitch only
with ollie1
1st pitch only
with ollie1
ollie1 17 Jul Lead Climbed p1. P2 v vegetated and v chossy, abbed off
with LDJ
Climbed p1. P2 v vegetated and v chossy, abbed off
with LDJ
Tom Seccombe 2 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Much more loose than loose women, which is pretty loose! Very easy very scary climbing. :)
with Elliot Spooner
Much more loose than loose women, which is pretty loose! Very easy very scary climbing. :)
with Elliot Spooner
minexplorer 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd led 1st & 3rd. super pitches great variety of climbing between them. top pitch is the best bit . pitch 1 good gear 2 & 3 very run out.ive cleaned much vegetation and loose rock off,so better for others trying it now.make sure u have a 2 & 2.5 cams for 1st belay or u will be relying on a single sling across top of a block.
with nick
led 1st & 3rd. super pitches great variety of climbing between them. top pitch is the best bit . pitch 1 good gear 2 & 3 very run out.ive cleaned much vegetation and loose rock off,so better for others trying it now.make sure u have a 2 & 2.5 cams for 1st belay or u will be relying on a single sling across top of a block.
with nick
Noodles30 ?Jun, 2017 AltLd
alexjz 4 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead P1 & P3. Climbing felt boring but scary. Really felt exposed going from each small uncut to the next on the final pitch but with no climbing difficulty. On the second belay one of the pegs pretty much fell in my hand when I was testing it. Back up peg belays. I didn't get the 2 star experience!!
with Ayrton
Lead P1 & P3. Climbing felt boring but scary. Really felt exposed going from each small uncut to the next on the final pitch but with no climbing difficulty. On the second belay one of the pegs pretty much fell in my hand when I was testing it. Back up peg belays. I didn't get the 2 star experience!!
with Ayrton
Hidden 26 Aug, 2012 2nd
HappyTrundler 26 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S For me, a very demanding lead, mentally, no hard moves, just a constant unease about either poor gear and/or poor rock. Almost every hold seemed to move and creak. First pitch is ok, quite good gear and a good belay in the base of the crack far left of the chossy ledge. Second pitch, easy moves, no gear past the top of the corner crack. Third pitch, after the crack, very runout with dubious gear and creaking holds, as you get higher on the arete there are more gear placements than I expected, and some, quite good. Overall it was a thrilling, intense, absorbing, scary and satisfying climb, and above all a memory that will stand the test of time...I wouldn't want to lead it again though...
with Diane
For me, a very demanding lead, mentally, no hard moves, just a constant unease about either poor gear and/or poor rock. Almost every hold seemed to move and creak. First pitch is ok, quite good gear and a good belay in the base of the crack far left of the chossy ledge. Second pitch, easy moves, no gear past the top of the corner crack. Third pitch, after the crack, very runout with dubious gear and creaking holds, as you get higher on the arete there are more gear placements than I expected, and some, quite good. Overall it was a thrilling, intense, absorbing, scary and satisfying climb, and above all a memory that will stand the test of time...I wouldn't want to lead it again though...
with Diane
timdi ?Jun, 2012 Lead
climbingpixie 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S A very intense experience that felt harder and more serious than the likes of Mousetrap. Led pitches 1 & 3.
with Pagan
A very intense experience that felt harder and more serious than the likes of Mousetrap. Led pitches 1 & 3.
with Pagan
Hidden 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
feilx 7 Oct, 2006 Lead dnf
with Tom H
with Tom H
duncan 18 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
Hidden 11 Jun, 2005 AltLd
Andy Clarke 11 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S An exciting and atmospheric route. Lovely belay before the big final pitch - a riot of sea pinks and foxgloves - then swooping exposure as soon as you step out onto the slab. Cured the monster hangovers we were both nursing. Led Ps 2&3.
with Dale
An exciting and atmospheric route. Lovely belay before the big final pitch - a riot of sea pinks and foxgloves - then swooping exposure as soon as you step out onto the slab. Cured the monster hangovers we were both nursing. Led Ps 2&3.
with Dale
Hidden ??, 2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Sep, 2003 AltLd O/S
colin milton 31 Aug, 2003 AltLd rpt seemed much harder than before. Homemade peg still there although much worse for wear.
with simon murphy
seemed much harder than before. Homemade peg still there although much worse for wear.
with simon murphy
Hidden ?Jun, 2002 Lead
Hidden 7 Apr, 1998 AltLd O/S
alan moore ??, 1996 - One of my favourites. A grim, November day with a choppy sea crawling around the cliff base. I remember placing an extra peg in the confessional niche while the wind howled outside. Stepping out of the niche onto the top pitch was stirring stuff!
One of my favourites. A grim, November day with a choppy sea crawling around the cliff base. I remember placing an extra peg in the confessional niche while the wind howled outside. Stepping out of the niche onto the top pitch was stirring stuff!
colin milton 28 Jul, 1995 AltLd
with eric milton
with eric milton
auld al ?May, 1995 AltLd O/S
rogerskews 25 May, 1991 - retreated from 2nd pitch due to much loose rock
with Bryn Roberts
retreated from 2nd pitch due to much loose rock
with Bryn Roberts
Hidden ?May, 1990 AltLd O/S
Mark Kemball ??, 1990 AltLd
with Lee Bartrop
with Lee Bartrop
frank ramsay 10 Feb, 1989 Solo
The Reaper 19 Sep, 1982 AltLd A very long, lonely lead on the final pitch. Totally absorbing.
A very long, lonely lead on the final pitch. Totally absorbing.
mark-abz 11 Jun, 1981 Lead
with Charlie G
with Charlie G
Martin Bennett ?Jul, 1980 - Appalling! Abbed off after 2 pitches. Took an hour to find a combination of rubbish points to ab off.
with JD, IW
Appalling! Abbed off after 2 pitches. Took an hour to find a combination of rubbish points to ab off.
with JD, IW
Brian Wilderspin 17 May, 1980 AltLd O/S
with Walter Phipps
with Walter Phipps
Hidden ??, 1979 -
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 12
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set