9m. Some use of the right-hand arete at this grade (but avoid moving too far right). Some quite necky clips.

Chomp 16/Jun Lead O/S
bpmclimb 27/Mar TR rpt
with Shunt
aptius 23/Jan TR RP
with Tom
Josh Lewis 21/Jan Lead β

Attempting Slabby McSlabFace but grabbed the crack right at the top.

Steve Lewis 21/Jan Lead O/S
Echuum 20/Jan Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Ban1 18/Jun/16 Lead RP

Tough really really tough

with Mark
Lucyezs 15/May/16 Lead

Macca only did this

LovelyMrTom 16/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Ended up grovelling the in the crack right of the arete and clipping the lower off for Red Recess. Don't fancy another go either.

Huntlyfiddler 07/Apr/16 2nd
bpmclimb 07/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Had a hard superdirect version in mind, but that proved too ambitious. Ended up using the R arete (as usual) - and found that hard enough! The bolting is rather unfriendly on this route; there's potential for a ground fall moving up to the 2nd clip, and it's also pretty sketchy to clip the lower-off. Taking that into account, possibly worth 6b. I haven't tried the LH crack version yet, but it looks to be more within the given grade.

with Clare
Hidden 02/Apr/16 Lead dog
Paul1 21/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Nicole
col3 21/Mar/16 2nd

Hard for the short! Didn't do very well. Went mainly on arete. Not a great climb.

with Paul
PaulTclimbing ??/2016 Lead
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
chrisscutt 21/Nov/15 Lead
with Maya
evhall 31/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Tim Bray
AngelaC 11/Aug/15 TR dnf
TommyKips 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Adam Sage, Ross Stephenson
Adamasage 16/Jul/15 2nd RP
hutchay 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Steph
kieranbowen 30/May/15 Lead RP
with Giles, Sam, Ruth
jungle 30/May/15 Lead O/S
stujamac 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Sabrina Motzkus, Gabrielle Bignell, Ben Cole
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Lazytraveller 20/Mar/15 Lead G/U

Fannied about working the start out, rested 5 minutes then smashed it.

Hidden 07/Mar/15 2nd dog
ASchwirtz 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
rhys mence 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Spillers 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
sideshow84 20/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Dec/14 Lead β
sheelba 13/Dec/14 Lead O/S
evhall 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Tom P, goat
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead
stevethomas 29/Nov/14 Lead
with Heather
tobydunford 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
RichyBOYY 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Joe
JoeE 02/Nov/14 TR O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead dog
reece.robinson 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Michael Jenei
stpauliblade 17/Jul/14 Lead
Radical-G 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tommccluskey 25/May/14 Lead O/S

Straight up the arete - good but 6b at least!

with Petar
Mark Storey 13/May/14 TR dog
with Charles
mrfeebus ?/May/14 -
MarkyMark_7 18/Apr/14 2nd dog
craigaj.ace 17/Apr/14 2nd
with James
bonelessivar 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 16/Feb/14 Lead rpt

Did it correctly this time - traverse to the crack on the left between the second and third bolt. Makes this a pretty decent route and 6a+ seems about right actually.

with Caleb
Kemics 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S

On peter's advice i opted to traverse the face and layback the crack. Couple of nice moves and avoids the muddy right arete.

with Peter
stretch323i ??/2014 TR dog
Hidden 21/Dec/13 Lead dog
gregclarke 10/Nov/13 TR dog
with Clare, Brian
bpmclimb 10/Nov/13 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 10/Nov/13 2nd
buzzball101 ?/Sep/13 Lead
jayyaj 20/Aug/13 Lead dog

Crawled my way up it using hands, feet, knees, teeth and quite a bit of cheating. Definitely harder than 6a+.

Hidden 17/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mikedevcole 24/Jul/13 Lead RP
mikedevcole 20/Jul/13 TR
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
petellis 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Sloth
rbalmer 09/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Lindsay Worthy
wae76 06/May/13 TR dog
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/13 Lead O/S
harryjenner 01/Mar/13 Lead
lakeyross 12/Jan/13 Lead
slugger5uk ??/2013 Lead
Hidden 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
patrickc 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with Sue
The Ivanator 01/Dec/12 Lead

Interesting first couple of moves to access the enticing looking slab, but then unless you climb considerably harder than the given grade you are forced to either head for the grotty arete on the right or the vegetated crack on the left. Not as good as it looks. I took the arete, my second the crack.

with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 01/Dec/12 2nd dog
with Ivan
mallardhealhook 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
evhall 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

layback off right arete

with goat
Shaky Dog 13/Oct/12 Lead dog
with Andy
pheotleyr 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S

really fun bouldery start, the rest of it is still quite hard but pretty crappy - the bolts are in the blank wall on the left, most of the climbing I did was on the right-hand arete or even sometimes grabbing a hold in the somewhat dirty crack to the right of it (couldn't have done it without at approximately F6a+ in the upper part). Reading older descriptions, I might have missed that traverse to the left arete, guidebook description might be a bit misleading here...

Vnockles 29/Sep/12 2nd
will_benfold 29/Sep/12 Lead β
Hidden 29/Sep/12 TR dog
cameron_hall 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Tricky to get over the bulges!

mallardhealhook 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Mark Salter 19/Jul/12 Lead β
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
jas128 04/Jun/12 TR dog
afrosam 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
michpaulatto 11/Mar/12 Lead β
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Jan/12 2nd dnf
evilweed 15/Jan/12 -
with Sara Currie
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
pad-rat ??/2012 -
jon_ridley 30/Sep/11 Lead dog

Found this hard, lost balance and grabbed qd

with Jess Marengo
Bede 27/Aug/11 Lead dnf
jang 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Tried the "right of the bolts, left of the arete" as per the description. Start's straightforward if a bit athletic; if the rest of the climb was as fun it'd be worth a star. Between the second and third bolt I wussed out and moved onto the arete. Gaining the belay station even using the RH arete was very touch-and-go nursing a damaged left hand - but I don't think it'd have been easier with everything at 100%. Having read some of the other descriptions I might have another crack at this including the traverse left after the third bolt. (I've climbed easier things rated at 6b, but give this "hard 6a+" - no danger of popping off at any point.) WRT the reachy clips: yes, they really are! I'm 5'7" and could get them, but it involved going a lot higher onto marginal stuff to get the QDs in.

with Nic
J1_TOV 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
aged_ape 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with IH
jimecallaw 27/May/11 Lead dog

the reaches to the clips were long, I got to the last one following a mate who had but in quickdraws but again couldn't clip it straight as just a few millimetres short :-(

with Adam, Danny
Danhan 22/May/11 Lead
with Gav
SGD 28/Feb/11 Lead

This is hard, climbed direct untill forced onto the right Arete high up but things didn't ease here. Easily 6b and clipping is very spicy for a 5',6" climber

with Jonny WMC
bpmclimb 29/Jan/11 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 29/Jan/11 2nd
wildrover220 24/Oct/10 TR β
with Niall Lusby
Didymus 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S

I stayed on right arete the whole way up and found it hard for grade also with very reachy clips - luckily Nick (6ft3in) had already put them in

with Nick
Hidden 13/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/10 TR O/S
simeclimb68 10/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with Luke Spiers, Tom Jewel
Hidden 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S
jchenoweth 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Peter and Paul
Ed Westwood 10/Dec/09 Lead O/S
with Robyn Cassidy
DrGav 04/Oct/09 Lead RP

Hard start then staying on the arete keeps the holds coming, but strangely bolted if that's the line.

with Wendy
bpmclimb 20/Sep/09 Lead RP

Quite hard for the grade. Opinions seem to vary as to the line. I started directly under the bolts, made a move up the wall to clip the second bolt, then moved right and used some layaways off the arete.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 20/Sep/09 2nd
Dax 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Right .. I reckon I know the way up this one.

Start on the right hand side of the climb, clip first bolt, move up staying right of the bolt line and using the good holds on the face and arete until you can clip the second and third bolts.

Now traverse left (the crux) to the left hand arete and climb to the lower off.

Even using both aretes like this it's a hard 6a+ route.

You could start on the left of the line of bolts and climb straight up but then you'd miss out on the moves on the right.

This time I started on the right, clipped the first and second bolts, went right onto the good holds, clipped third bolt and traversed left to the left arete and up to the lower off.

with Ward
Philip de-Beger 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Doable but hard for 6a+ assuming you climb up the bolt line and not the easier sides.

Fluffybunnyslippers 15/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Sam W 27/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 12/Jul/08 Lead β
Hidden 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Dax 19/Jun/08 Lead dog

Good, fun start but then the trouble kicks in after the first bolt. First thing: all of the bolts are very reachy to clip (and I'm 6ft tall). Second point: after the last bolt you need something from the arete cos the wall becomes blank .. unfortunately I couldn't see what it was giving .. so took a big ol' swinger. To get my gear back I heaved myself to the last bolt and used the left arete to make it to the belay station. I reckon this is one very confused route .. either the route description is wrong or it's sandbag? Be interested to hear how others climbed it. P.s. I "removed" some of the loose stuff just right of the arete - oops.

Adrian Bates 19/Jun/08 2nd

Not sure how this route is meant to be done. The description mentions the arête but we weren't sure which arete. We ended up starting up the right arete and then doing a VERY delicate traverse at the 3rd bolt level across to the left arete.

with Ward
the rec 19/Jun/08 TR β
with Darrell
DafSWMC 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
guy xavier percival 28/Jan/08 Solo O/S
Tom Heslam ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
bpmclimb 22/Nov/07 Lead dnf

Didn't fancy the final moves - very blank up the slab, and loose stuff nearer the arete.

with Mark
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High 6b+
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High 6b
Mid 6b
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High 6a+
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Low 6a+
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
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