Rockfax Description
A worthwhile pitch that is high in the grade. Start below a very thin crack right of the start of Gneiss Gnome.
Climb the crack past a quartz band to a ledge and flake. Move off of the flake and follow a seam and slab to meet a horizontal finger-crack. Finish up the left margin of the slab above and move right to a ledge and flake belay. Scramble off left. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, HVS Cornwall

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
evhall 14 Jul Lead O/S
with Sarju
with Sarju
Paul Sagar 21 Jun 2nd O/S
with khalidq
with khalidq
khalidq 21 Jun Lead O/S
Phil79 31 May Lead O/S Good climbing, gear tricky and felt a bit run out. Not entirely sure I stayed on the right line in the middle, but felt about the right grade.
Good climbing, gear tricky and felt a bit run out. Not entirely sure I stayed on the right line in the middle, but felt about the right grade.
climbdevon 25 May -
Sebastien Gastaud 20 Apr Lead O/S
garywong 20 Apr 2nd O/S
KernowCrag 20 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S
Jim blackford 20 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Harder and not as good as Saxon. Took a line of crimps up centre of final slab
Harder and not as good as Saxon. Took a line of crimps up centre of final slab
Gympaul 8 Jun, 2018 2nd
with Dale
with Dale
SimonWooden 27 May, 2018 2nd O/S
with Mark Lewis
with Mark Lewis
Hidden 6 May, 2018 Lead
Rory Shaw 6 May, 2018 2nd
with jkfb
with jkfb
Master Chief 28 Apr, 2018 2nd rpt
with Spearos
with Spearos
Spearos 28 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Jess Carr 8 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jazzmatazz
with Jazzmatazz
Hidden 29 Aug, 2017 Solo O/S
Master Chief 4 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with jgclimb
with jgclimb
perrys 17 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S The start is bold - not difficult climbing but no good gear for around 5 metres. I didn't like this so backed off and George led it instead.
with George Evans
The start is bold - not difficult climbing but no good gear for around 5 metres. I didn't like this so backed off and George led it instead.
with George Evans
richgac 7 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Sarah
with Sarah
Andrew Sloan 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S First 25 ft very thin on gear. Harder than Saxon.
First 25 ft very thin on gear. Harder than Saxon.
Dizz 19 May, 2017 2nd rpt
with Pradreg
with Pradreg
Lenny 18 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with Lada Lukinić
with Lada Lukinić
Alison Cairns 18 May, 2017 2nd rpt
with Maria
with Maria
alice fuller ?May, 2017 Lead O/S The gear wasn't obvious, and had to climb well above it at times. Good for me and enjoyed the challenge. Prob took ages. Saw choughs, adder ,red kite, huge fox and bluebells ;)
The gear wasn't obvious, and had to climb well above it at times. Good for me and enjoyed the challenge. Prob took ages. Saw choughs, adder ,red kite, huge fox and bluebells ;)
Jess patel 12 Apr, 2017 2nd
with TimAshlin, mike thomas
with TimAshlin, mike thomas
Hidden 12 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Chris Murray 11 Apr, 2017 2nd
with DMC
with DMC
DMC 11 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Apr, 2017 2nd
Hidden 26 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
greedo ??, 2016 2nd
with Martin hoare, Guy reid
with Martin hoare, Guy reid
Jelly Mould Surfer 6 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Rock fax has it high in the grade - but I reckon standard HVS is right
Rock fax has it high in the grade - but I reckon standard HVS is right
Hidden 2 Aug, 2015 Lead
Hidden 2 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
supersouthward 2 Aug, 2015 -
with Selen Thyssen
with Selen Thyssen
Wendy 2 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
Tom Schofield-Graham 22 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Fred Graham
with Fred Graham
Hidden 9 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
bryan61 9 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Mr Cess
with Mr Cess
Alison Cairns 7 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt A thin start with not much gear then steady above.
A thin start with not much gear then steady above.
Hidden 7 Jul, 2015 Lead
Hidden 30 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
saxdonkey 30 Jun, 2015 2nd dog Thrown off by disco-leg!
Thrown off by disco-leg!
Hidden 25 May, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 25 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 23 Mar, 2015 Lead rpt
JoeCoxson 23 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S Some tricky moves, great long route.
Some tricky moves, great long route.
annb ??, 2015 -
Chimnastics 30 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S Much harder than Saxon, I thought. Sustained 5a most of the way, with many tricky moves above gear. Great route though, and very enjoyable.
Much harder than Saxon, I thought. Sustained 5a most of the way, with many tricky moves above gear. Great route though, and very enjoyable.
Lumbering Oaf 30 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Joel Perkin 26 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S Bit harder than Saxon, and not quite as good. Still excellent!
with Simon Hammond
Bit harder than Saxon, and not quite as good. Still excellent!
with Simon Hammond
simonhammond1966 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Nice route.
Nice route.
Okecroak 8 Jun, 2014 Lead
with J. Homewood
with J. Homewood
Jack jk 18 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with Milton Wakefield
with Milton Wakefield
Hidden 23 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 22 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Superb stuff. Harder and more sustained that Saxon, but also more escapable. The climbing is just as good but the proximity to Gneiss Gnome detracts a little. Recommended!
with Colin Foord
Superb stuff. Harder and more sustained that Saxon, but also more escapable. The climbing is just as good but the proximity to Gneiss Gnome detracts a little. Recommended!
with Colin Foord
Hidden 6 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
Simon Alden 15 May, 2013 2nd O/S
with Richard Wheeldon
with Richard Wheeldon
rd20 30 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S
cymjt ??, 2013 -
Jim Slater 1 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
mike hooper 23 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S Still dealing with man.flew
with jobey martin
Still dealing with man.flew
with jobey martin
Joby 23 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S good climbing but pretty thin on gear and holds
with Mike Hooper
good climbing but pretty thin on gear and holds
with Mike Hooper
jakenichol 13 May, 2012 Lead Upper section very run-out. Initial crack from ground is dubious and thin
with Martin Cathrow
Upper section very run-out. Initial crack from ground is dubious and thin
with Martin Cathrow
monsteratt 6 May, 2012 Lead O/S Really enjoyed this interesting climbing all the way! Nice to be able to take my time...hard on the toes though
with Chris Goddard
Really enjoyed this interesting climbing all the way! Nice to be able to take my time...hard on the toes though
with Chris Goddard
Hidden 6 May, 2012 2nd O/S
cem 6 Apr, 2012 2nd rpt
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Wendy Watthews 21 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
arandall 21 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 Solo O/S
conorjclarke 23 Nov, 2011 TR O/S climbed up this on top rope via headlamp after rapping back down to get all the gear off rock dancer
with Rhona Barr
climbed up this on top rope via headlamp after rapping back down to get all the gear off rock dancer
with Rhona Barr
Marti999 10 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Graham C 10 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Aug, 2011 2nd
Dizz 22 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Excellent!
with Richard S
Excellent!
with Richard S
Hidden 1 Jun, 2011 Lead
masa-alpin 29 Apr, 2011 2nd β Jo lead it - her first HVS lead after a long break.
with Jo B, Doug S
Jo lead it - her first HVS lead after a long break.
with Jo B, Doug S
victim of mathematics 26 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S Hard. Tricky route finding and technical moves. Much harder than Saxon.
Hard. Tricky route finding and technical moves. Much harder than Saxon.
crossdressingrodney 26 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Vague line around the crux. Tricky.
Vague line around the crux. Tricky.
jchenoweth 23 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Charlie Jeynes
with Charlie Jeynes
erinbastian 9 Jan, 2011 2nd
with martin
with martin
andybenham 10 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S Followed Jeremy up something approximating this moving briefly into the corner of Gneiss Gnome half way up then finishing somewhere between the two routes up a loose chossy wall. About VS 4c like this. Some brittle rock low down.
with JerryD
Followed Jeremy up something approximating this moving briefly into the corner of Gneiss Gnome half way up then finishing somewhere between the two routes up a loose chossy wall. About VS 4c like this. Some brittle rock low down.
with JerryD
Bob M 29 Aug, 2010 Lead A bit artificial (close to Gneiss Gnome at the crux) but some good moves. Significantly harder than Saxon.
A bit artificial (close to Gneiss Gnome at the crux) but some good moves. Significantly harder than Saxon.
Norman_P_W 29 Aug, 2010 2nd
with Bob M
with Bob M
Hidden 28 Aug, 2010 2nd
Nel Tindale 28 Aug, 2010 2nd β
with Jim Jarvis
with Jim Jarvis
Will Hunt 16 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
steve2006 ?Aug, 2010 Lead
Hidden ??, 2010 -
scott titt ??, 2010 -
Hidden 11 Oct, 2009 2nd
jon thompson27 10 Oct, 2009 2nd O/S
with simon mayell
with simon mayell
BarbsMurray 6 Aug, 2006 2nd
with Mikey
with Mikey
Hidden 22 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
cem 11 Apr, 2004 2nd
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
goi.ashmore 24 Aug, 2002 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
with Roy Thomas
Nettle 29 Sep, 1999 2nd β * - An evening away from ML1 Course 1/99 with Bill Billingsley.
with Bill Billingsley
* - An evening away from ML1 Course 1/99 with Bill Billingsley.
with Bill Billingsley
Roget 15 Aug, 1999 Solo O/S
John Hunt 28 Jul, 1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Jul, 1997 2nd
Andy Say 2 Jun, 1994 2nd
scott titt ??, 1994 -
Nigel Coe ??, 1994 -
Steve Clegg 20 Apr, 1984 -
with Steve G
with Steve G
Hidden ?May, 1982 Lead
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??, 1981 Lead
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 30
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set