Rockfax Description
A worthwhile pitch that is high in the grade. Start below a very thin crack right of the start of Gneiss Gnome.
Climb the crack past a quartz band to a ledge and flake. Move off of the flake and follow a seam and slab to meet a horizontal finger-crack. Finish up the left margin of the slab above and move right to a ledge and flake belay. Scramble off left. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist.

Hidden 29/Aug/17 Solo O/S
Master Chief 04/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Jeremy
perrys 17/Jun/17 2nd O/S

The start is bold - not difficult climbing but no good gear for around 5 metres. I didn't like this so backed off and George led it instead.

with George Evans
Andrew Sloan 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S

First 25 ft very thin on gear. Harder than Saxon.

Dizz 19/May/17 2nd rpt
with Pradreg
Lenny 18/May/17 Lead O/S
with Lada Lukinić
Alison Cairns 18/May/17 2nd rpt
with Maria
alice fuller ?/May/17 Lead O/S

The gear wasn't obvious, and had to climb well above it at times. Good for me and enjoyed the challenge. Prob took ages. Saw choughs, adder ,red kite, huge fox and bluebells ;)

Jess patel 12/Apr/17 2nd
with tim ashlin, mike thomas
Hidden 12/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Chris Murray 11/Apr/17 2nd
DanChad 11/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/17 2nd
Hidden 26/Nov/16 Lead O/S
greedo ??/2016 2nd
with Martin hoare, Guy reid
Jelly Mould Surfer 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Rock fax has it high in the grade - but I reckon standard HVS is right

Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/15 2nd O/S
supersouthward 02/Aug/15 -
with Selen Thyssen
Wendy 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Tom Schofield-Graham 22/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Fred Graham
Hidden 09/Jul/15 2nd O/S
bryan61 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Mr Cess
Alison Cairns 07/Jul/15 Lead rpt

A thin start with not much gear then steady above.

with Andy
Hidden 07/Jul/15 Lead
tim.fairhall 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Tommy
saxdonkey 30/Jun/15 2nd dog

Thrown off by disco-leg!

Hidden 25/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 23/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with joe c
JoeCoxson 23/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Some tricky moves, great long route.

Hidden ??/2015 -
manbat 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Much harder than Saxon, I thought. Sustained 5a most of the way, with many tricky moves above gear. Great route though, and very enjoyable.

Lumbering Oaf 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Joel Perkin 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Bit harder than Saxon, and not quite as good. Still excellent!

with Simon Hammond
simonhammond1966 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Nice route.

Okecroak 08/Jun/14 Lead
with J. Homewood
Jack J Keogan 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Milton Wakefield
Hidden 23/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 22/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Superb stuff. Harder and more sustained that Saxon, but also more escapable. The climbing is just as good but the proximity to Gneiss Gnome detracts a little. Recommended!

with Colin Foord
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Simon Alden 15/May/13 2nd O/S
with Richard Wheeldon
rd20 30/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Patrick
cymjt ??/2013 -
Jim Slater 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S
mike hooper 23/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Still dealing with man.flew

with jobey martin
Joby 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S

good climbing but pretty thin on gear and holds

with Mike Hooper
jakenichol 13/May/12 Lead

Upper section very run-out. Initial crack from ground is dubious and thin

with Martin Cathrow
monsteratt 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this interesting climbing all the way! Nice to be able to take my time...hard on the toes though

with Chris Goddard
Hidden 06/May/12 2nd O/S
cem 06/Apr/12 2nd rpt
Wendy Watthews 21/Mar/12 2nd O/S
arandall 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Solo O/S
conorjclarke 23/Nov/11 TR O/S

climbed up this on top rope via headlamp after rapping back down to get all the gear off rock dancer

with Rhona Barr
Marti999 10/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Graham C 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Marti
Hidden 04/Aug/11 2nd
Dizz 22/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with Richard S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead
masa-alpin 29/Apr/11 2nd β

Jo lead it - her first HVS lead after a long break.

with Jo B, Doug S
victim of mathematics 26/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Hard. Tricky route finding and technical moves. Much harder than Saxon.

crossdressingrodney 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Vague line around the crux. Tricky.

jchenoweth 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Charlie Jeynes
erinbastian 09/Jan/11 2nd
with martin
andybenham 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Followed Jeremy up something approximating this moving briefly into the corner of Gneiss Gnome half way up then finishing somewhere between the two routes up a loose chossy wall. About VS 4c like this. Some brittle rock low down.

Bob M 29/Aug/10 Lead

A bit artificial (close to Gneiss Gnome at the crux) but some good moves. Significantly harder than Saxon.

Norman_P_W 29/Aug/10 2nd
with Bob M
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd
Nel Tindale 28/Aug/10 2nd β
with Jim Jarvis
Will Hunt 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
steve2006 ?/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 11/Oct/09 2nd
jon thompson27 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with simon mayell
BarbsMurray 06/Aug/06 2nd
with Mikey
Hidden 22/Jun/06 Lead O/S
cem 11/Apr/04 2nd
goi.ashmore 24/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Roget 15/Aug/99 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/97 2nd
Andy Say 02/Jun/94 2nd
Hidden ??/1994 -
Nigel Coe ??/1994 -
Hidden ?/May/82 Lead
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
2 users have this on their wishlist
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 25
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set