Rockfax Description
The central corner that rises from the overhung ledge at the base of High Cliff is a stunning line. Technically reasonable but the commitment required earns it the grade. The nature of the climbing and the situation is very serious and this is not a place to get into trouble. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seawards below the gearing-up spot.
1) 5a, 20m. Traverse left to a protruding ledge and continue around an arete to a large platform beneath roofs and the main corner as for Vagabond.
2) 6a, 20m. From the right-hand side of the large platform, climb the right-hand of two converging cracks past a short, hard section to better holds beneath the roof. Committing moves leftwards gain a precarious rest in a chimney on the lip of the roof. Move up this and its left wall to a small stance.
3) 5c, 20m. Climb the main corner, moving left around a bulge, to a good ledge and belay.
4) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack in the right wall of the corner for 10m then step back left and follow the groove to a roof. Move rightwards easily but on deteriorating rock until a fault-line leads up to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, UK Extreme Corners, UK Lonely Leads, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Lifetime List

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 21 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Wanted to do this for years and it didn’t disappoint, made up to have onsighted it too - especially given the state it was in (we left it until late in the day, but still the grease prevailed!).
Wanted to do this for years and it didn’t disappoint, made up to have onsighted it too - especially given the state it was in (we left it until late in the day, but still the grease prevailed!).
penny.orr 21 Jul, 2018 2nd
Ged Desforges ??, 2016 - The belay at end of the 5c pitch is fairly terrifying. Found a sideways nut a bit above the ledge in poor rock. Make sure the second doesn't fall off that pitch! Top pitch can barely be described as rock. Proper adventure.
The belay at end of the 5c pitch is fairly terrifying. Found a sideways nut a bit above the ledge in poor rock. Make sure the second doesn't fall off that pitch! Top pitch can barely be described as rock. Proper adventure.
mattnuttall 17 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Dave lead hard pitch. I had to weight one of the cams to lean back and remove the big cam under the roof that I was too boxed to remove when passing it. Awesome. Hard through roof although safe (but i wasnt on the sharp end) and the chimney rest is very good. Bit soapy but perhaps in as good nick as it can be. Pitch 3/is sustained and peg is rotted away but thread can be found. Higher up route turns to some sort of crumbly cheese... With no guide on us Dave forced a direct exit up the main corner line... Does E5 4c exist... Maybe! But what a line. Kerching!
with datoon
Dave lead hard pitch. I had to weight one of the cams to lean back and remove the big cam under the roof that I was too boxed to remove when passing it. Awesome. Hard through roof although safe (but i wasnt on the sharp end) and the chimney rest is very good. Bit soapy but perhaps in as good nick as it can be. Pitch 3/is sustained and peg is rotted away but thread can be found. Higher up route turns to some sort of crumbly cheese... With no guide on us Dave forced a direct exit up the main corner line... Does E5 4c exist... Maybe! But what a line. Kerching!
with datoon
datoon 17 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
quiffhanger 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd A proper sketch adventure. Hard! Greased out the slippy crux utterly exhausted. Dodgy nut caught a potentially nasty fall. Pulled the ropes and scraped through second go. On the same day as Darkinbad - mega!
A proper sketch adventure. Hard! Greased out the slippy crux utterly exhausted. Dodgy nut caught a potentially nasty fall. Pulled the ropes and scraped through second go. On the same day as Darkinbad - mega!
theotherpetehill 8 Aug, 2014 2nd Exciting
with Ross McKerchar
Exciting
with Ross McKerchar
Neil McA 6 Oct, 2013 AltLd James led the hard pitches, I just did P1 & 4. Excellent adventurous route!
with James Turnbull
James led the hard pitches, I just did P1 & 4. Excellent adventurous route!
with James Turnbull
The old James turnbull 6 Oct, 2013 Lead was so so greasy, finally sat on a cam at the roof as holds where so wet. other than that whole thing was free and went well. lead both the crux pitches. 95% sure wouldnt have rested if dry, but bet it rarely is. amazing adventure.
with neil mcadie
was so so greasy, finally sat on a cam at the roof as holds where so wet. other than that whole thing was free and went well. lead both the crux pitches. 95% sure wouldnt have rested if dry, but bet it rarely is. amazing adventure.
with neil mcadie
Brown 5 Sep, 2012 AltLd
with Andy R
with Andy R
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Hidden 2 Sep, 2011 Lead dnf
Graham Atkins 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd Dispatched with manflu, a big sea and damp holds on the crux. Like Jules says - it was emotional but utterly brilliant!
Dispatched with manflu, a big sea and damp holds on the crux. Like Jules says - it was emotional but utterly brilliant!
billb 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd Awesome! Led middle pitch
with JulesV
Awesome! Led middle pitch
with JulesV
JulesV 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Lead crux pitch. Emotional!
with Will Boxen
Lead crux pitch. Emotional!
with Will Boxen
richsmithinbristol 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd Seconded traverse entry pitch. Led crux pitch but rested due to wet holds/ weak arms / not using the good hold! Led corner crack pitch. Mind blowing.
Seconded traverse entry pitch. Led crux pitch but rested due to wet holds/ weak arms / not using the good hold! Led corner crack pitch. Mind blowing.
tuftynick 1 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S lead crux pitch
lead crux pitch
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 1 Jun, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2011 -
debsb ??, 2011 AltLd
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
DDDD ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
with John Baker
with John Baker
Hidden ??, 2006 -
duncan 25 Aug, 1997 AltLd O/S 3rd time lucky
with AlisonC
3rd time lucky
with AlisonC
UKB Shark ?Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 17 Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 1995 AltLd O/S
duncan ?Oct, 1994 AltLd dnf High sea. Did not start...
with Dan Donovan
High sea. Did not start...
with Dan Donovan
Alan James - UKC and UKH 6 Aug, 1993 AltLd
with Phil Baker
with Phil Baker
Hidden ?Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Hidden ?Jun, 1988 AltLd
Johnny Baker ??, 1988 AltLd
with Derek Toulalan, Dave Webster
with Derek Toulalan, Dave Webster
Hidden 7 Nov, 1987 AltLd dog
JimR ??, 1982 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
with Wright Nichols
with Wright Nichols
Hidden 27 Jun, 1978 AltLd
pete osullivan ?Apr, 1978 2nd Must have been a very early ascent. Got to the top and found that Nipper had no belay and had untied from the rope!
with Nipper Harrison
Must have been a very early ascent. Got to the top and found that Nipper had no belay and had untied from the rope!
with Nipper Harrison
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 9
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set