Rockfax Description
The central corner that rises from the overhung ledge at the base of High Cliff is a stunning line. Technically reasonable but the commitment required earns it the grade. The nature of the climbing and the situation is very serious and this is not a place to get into trouble. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seawards below the gearing-up spot.
1) 5a, 20m. Traverse left to a protruding ledge and continue around an arete to a large platform beneath roofs and the main corner as for Vagabond.
2) 6a, 20m. From the right-hand side of the large platform, climb the right-hand of two converging cracks past a short, hard section to better holds beneath the roof. Committing moves leftwards gain a precarious rest in a chimney on the lip of the roof. Move up this and its left wall to a small stance.
3) 5c, 20m. Climb the main corner, moving left around a bulge, to a good ledge and belay.
4) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack in the right wall of the corner for 10m then step back left and follow the groove to a roof. Move rightwards easily but on deteriorating rock until a fault-line leads up to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, UK Extreme Corners, UK Lonely Leads, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Lifetime List.

Ged Desforges ??/2016 -

The belay at end of the 5c pitch is fairly terrifying. Found a sideways nut a bit above the ledge in poor rock. Make sure the second doesn't fall off that pitch! Top pitch can barely be described as rock. Proper adventure.

mattnuttall 17/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Dave lead hard pitch. I had to weight one of the cams to lean back and remove the big cam under the roof that I was too boxed to remove when passing it. Awesome. Hard through roof although safe (but i wasnt on the sharp end) and the chimney rest is very good. Bit soapy but perhaps in as good nick as it can be. Pitch 3/is sustained and peg is rotted away but thread can be found. Higher up route turns to some sort of crumbly cheese... With no guide on us Dave forced a direct exit up the main corner line... Does E5 4c exist... Maybe! But what a line. Kerching!

datoon 17/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
quiffhanger 08/Aug/14 AltLd

A proper sketch adventure. Hard! Greased out the slippy crux utterly exhausted. Dodgy nut caught a potentially nasty fall. Pulled the ropes and scraped through second go. On the same day as Darkinbad - mega!

theotherpetehill 08/Aug/14 2nd


with Ross McKerchar
Neil McA 06/Oct/13 AltLd

James led the hard pitches, I just did P1 & 4. Excellent adventurous route!

with James Turnbull
The old James turnbull 06/Oct/13 Lead

was so so greasy, finally sat on a cam at the roof as holds where so wet. other than that whole thing was free and went well. lead both the crux pitches. 95% sure wouldnt have rested if dry, but bet it rarely is. amazing adventure.

with neil mcadie
Brown 05/Sep/12 AltLd
with Andy R
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/11 Lead dnf
Graham Atkins 26/Jun/11 AltLd

Dispatched with manflu, a big sea and damp holds on the crux. Like Jules says - it was emotional but utterly brilliant!

billb 26/Jun/11 AltLd

Awesome! Led middle pitch

JulesV 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead crux pitch. Emotional!

with Will Boxen
richsmithinbristol 26/Jun/11 AltLd

Seconded traverse entry pitch. Led crux pitch but rested due to wet holds/ weak arms / not using the good hold! Led corner crack pitch. Mind blowing.

tuftynick 01/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

lead crux pitch

Hidden 01/Jun/11 AltLd
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
DDDD ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with John Baker
Hidden ??/2006 -
duncan 25/Aug/97 AltLd O/S

3rd time lucky

ukb & bmc shark ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 17/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/95 AltLd O/S
duncan ?/Oct/94 AltLd dnf

High sea. Did not start...

with Dan Donovan
Alan James - UKC and UKH 06/Aug/93 AltLd
with Phil Baker
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/88 AltLd
Johnny Baker ??/1988 AltLd
with Derek Toulalan, Dave Webster
Hidden 07/Nov/87 AltLd dog
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
with Wright Nichols
Hidden 27/Jun/78 AltLd
pete osullivan ?/May/78 2nd

Must have been a very early ascent. Got to the top and found that Nipper had no belay and had untied from the rope!

with Nipper Harrison
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 9
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set