The vertical crack in the orange face. Finish with a tricky lean right to clip a lower-off.

Martin Bagshaw 17/Jan Lead dog

Clipped the lower off, then grabbed the draw FFS! Couldn't stop shaking / get in balance to clip. Shame the lower off is there, as going straight up there is a perfect small wire, and would let you stay in balance. Good route though.

thompsettjack 25/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with james
Hidden 05/Nov/17 Lead O/S
will rivers 28/Oct/17 Lead
with Mark
megamonkeyman 15/Oct/17 TR dog

On shunt

Didymus 08/Oct/17 Lead dog

5 years since last attempt. Plan was to top out by clipping the two pegs after lower-off - so had safety inspection first. On lead, fell at last hard move. Drat!

andy_pemberton 03/Aug/17 Lead
with Steve Gibson
SachitD 03/Jun/17 TR O/S
with Anna Soligo
asol ?/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Sachit
mossrug 13/May/17 Lead dog
with Rob
Hidden 29/Apr/17 Lead dog
matt davies 29/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Easy climbing till the crack gets to thin for fingers and have to use facewall crimps, got to pumped for the crux, backed off. Great climbing thou

with Ross
kenneM 12/Apr/17 Lead G/U
with Chris
luke glaister 11/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Gri gri Gregg , Ed Atkinson , RobinJones, Jimmysmith1577, casey johns
Nathan Chrismas 26/Mar/17 Lead dog

Pre placed gear, rested to work out final move

with Timms
WillAndrew 04/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Like everyone else I'm now confused about whether the route finishes at the BB or continues on. Reading the CC guidebook makes it sound like the BB is the correct finish but it's not even close to E3 6a if you do so (more like HVS/E1 5b). Anyway, I assumed the guidebook description was right so I can't claim the full grade!

with KatePG
PaulTclimbing 27/Dec/16 -
Hidden 11/Dec/16 2nd
Stanners 04/Dec/16 Lead dnf

Always wanted to have a go at this pure, topping out. With the first ascentionist offering to belay I couldn't say no. All steady until the top, after placing the bomber gear, went up and down (a lot). The crack was j ust too unhelpful for me, took a couple of whippers and decided I would have to return. The punter version to the bolts is E2 5c** with a bitch final clip. Another day! you win some you lose some..

with Chris Bonner, Mark Davis, Gordon Jenkin
cbonner 04/Dec/16 TR dog

Fell on the 6a move past the lower off, got it just about on 3rd go.

julesmckim 17/Oct/16 Lead dog

Too pumped at top! Confused if it finished direct or clipped the bolts on the right. Put too much gear in. Loads of excuses. Wonderful climbing though and the gear is perfect.

jon_gill1 04/Sep/16 Lead rpt
EllieWoods 04/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/16 TR
Paul_southgate68 08/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Marc
shaunstar9 08/May/16 2nd dog

Gradually working out the moves at the top...hard!

with Kev
luke glaister 28/Apr/16 2nd

Well in kc. Climbed above gear and took the fall. Safe as houses with gear like that. Top moves are brilliant.

luke glaister 12/Apr/16 Lead

So much gear that it feels like hvs/E1 . 5c to the Sgt lower off. And 6a above. Brilliant route .

steve-grigg 09/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 02/Apr/16 Lead G/U
Tomas P 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
will rivers 19/Mar/16 2nd
Tom Pillow 19/Mar/16 Lead G/U

Did it second go, just step right. Not as hard as some seem to think. Glad to do this after thinking about it for a year!

with Will Rivers
shaunstar9 13/Mar/16 2nd dog

Struggled to get some of Leigh's gear out after he'd fallen on it a couple of times! Needed a rock to hit the nut key with! Top moves to abseil station are nails!

with Leigh
leigh 13/Mar/16 Lead dog

Fell on bottom before realized there was a high hand hold to right of crack. Then from ground got to just below lower off, but the moves at top too tough for me.

with Shaun
Cheese Monkey 19/Jan/16 Lead RP

Up to the old LO for full tick :)

with Dave, Colin
LITTLE SAM 19/Jan/16 Lead O/S
with carl wartkins
Carl Watkins 19/Jan/16 Lead
with Sam T
Hidden 17/Oct/15 TR O/S
just one more 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Nice enough,but not E3. Hardest move is clipping the lower off , as on SGT to the right

with Dan Birkby
Dean Russell 24/Apr/15 Lead RP
Andrew171 18/Apr/15 TR β
with mike steele perkins
MikeSP 18/Apr/15 TR β
Owen W-G 14/Apr/15 Lead

Downclimbed twice from the flat hold beneath crux to ledge. Sussed out crux, clipped QD to bolt but ended up grabbing it from fear of skidding off. First day out this year, v hot day, an hour on route, was spent for rest of day and didn't get far on attempt 2. Annoyed. Decent-ish route but too weird to have clipping chains the crux of a trad route. Like a pumpy well pro E1 with a very hard section at top so prob E2 5c/6a.

with Steve
Luuuuuke 31/Mar/15 Lead RP
with Max
Ollie B 31/Mar/15 Lead RP

TR off Shin Gi Tai lower off.

with A.Rosier
Legs 31/Mar/15 TR

Top roped on the second ground up. Maybe have a go at the lead next time. Gear is safe as.

AlexRenshaw 22/Mar/15 Lead
with Ted Lister
dmacmorris 20/Feb/15 Lead
with Tom
bonelessivar 24/Jan/15 TR O/S

Doable with good gear. Will have a go at leading next time.

with Tom
richsmithinbristol 19/Dec/14 2nd
shoulders 19/Dec/14 Lead dnf

Clean second go to the chain but I don't think this is the finish. Fell off above this.

Ally Smith 07/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Gibbison
kelliroberts3 29/Nov/14 Lead
with Jim Tan, Peter Rigby
Carl Watkins 15/Nov/14 TR dog

had to work out the top bit would go in one next time..... not sure i could lead this

tobydunford 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 31/Jul/14 Lead RP
jas128 31/Jul/14 2nd β
Kevster 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S

As with the others, clipped the chains then wondered what to do whilst hanging around. Softest E3 in wales, besides L wall....

jon_gill1 15/Jun/14 Lead dog

climbed up to lower off clean but didnt understand whether new lower off was the finish to the route so tried to climb further up the crack before falling off!gutted.

with ross garfoot
tommccluskey 25/May/14 Lead dog

Held onto the draw at the lower off to clip

with Petar
Hidden 27/Apr/14 Lead β
Hidden 27/Apr/14 Lead RP
Petar Samkov 29/Mar/14 Lead RP
tommccluskey 29/Mar/14 Lead dnf

On Petar's gear - fell off the very last move.

with Petar, james, Jess
Alex Winter 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Where is this supposed to finish now? I stopped at the bolt lower-off. That felt like copping out though, as it can be clipped halfway through a tricky sequence. I did the moves up to the manky lower-off afterwards -- pretty tough, but it's only about three feet above the new one and so feels a bit contrived.

with Peter H
Andy Fielding 01/Mar/14 2nd
with Bob Brewer
Max Lowry ??/2014 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 23/Nov/13 TR O/S

Confusing one this. I thought E2 5c to the modern lower off. Tried the moves further up the crack to the old (manky) lower off and much harder, probably worth E3 6a then. Think the new lower off has probably downgraded the route alot

with Peter
pheotleyr 23/Nov/13 TR O/S

Just up to the lower-off. E2 5c at most, might just be top end E1 5b in fact.

with Ben
Paul_southgate68 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S

I'll be back for this, should've led it!

with Mike Goldthorp
Anthony Dixon 05/Apr/13 Lead dog

Wrong handed at the top. One rest.

Dave Pen 02/Apr/13 TR

Good attempt to finish this route, well above my usual grade but great fun!

Tomar 17/Nov/12 Lead

I clipped the bolt belay then put a foot out right and slapped the chain. Was that it? Felt tons easier than e3 6a move maybe you're meant to carry on up a bit past the belay but it seems pretty hard this way. I'll give my self an easy e2 5c the way I did it

with Kelly
Didymus 15/Oct/12 Lead dog

Must get out more

bpmclimb 21/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Last move is hard and fingery, but it's obvious what you have to do. The start was harder than I expected. Loads of good gear, and several good rests, so I reckon this is E2 6a.

with Clare
drcorbasisgod 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Pete Rigby 21/Aug/12 Lead dog
with Fez
brices 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Really good gears amazing hardest part is not putting in to much

with Andy Brice
richsmithinbristol 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S
james.slater 31/Mar/12 Lead G/U

Fell from the last move, bummer! Its way overgraded at E3 though, maybe E2 6a. Easy climbing to halfway, a few harder moves and then the showstopper at the end, clipped from the sidepull, i think thats right!! Well protected all the way

with Ell Meachen
Goose4 17/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 15/Jan/12 TR dog
with bc
Didymus 06/Oct/11 Lead dog

Sadly ran out of steam for the very last crux move. Probably only E1 up to the crux.

with Nick
Tim M 10/Sep/11 Lead

Grabbed the quickdraw on the lower off...

with Emma
climbergg 10/Sep/11 2nd
al99 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
martinazando 27/Aug/11 2nd dog
Stone Muppet 13/Jul/11 Lead dog

Right, funny one this. With all these comments about clipping the lower off midway through the crux I thought I was meant to climb past the lower off. Couldn't figure out how though! Admittedly it was dark and I might have missed something, but personally I thought 6a is fair just for clipping the bolt at the top.

with jg
Glyn 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Nice climbing. well protected and easy for the grade

with Amy
_m.cox_ 06/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jason Williams
richiebongo 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Didymus
Sam W 02/Oct/10 Lead
alek 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/10 2nd dog
thomasadixon 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Ross
Bristoldave 09/Jun/10 Lead
with clay, pete
rubben 24/May/10 Lead O/S

5th trad lead ever...pumped to hell, but easy climbing, just two hard moves at the top!

rubben 24/May/10 Lead O/S

5th trad lead ever...pumped to hell, but easy climbing, just two hard moves at the top!

simeclimb68 12/May/10 Lead dog
payeo20 12/May/10 TR

wrong hands on last move, clean until then. frustrating

Dan_Carroll 28/Jan/10 Lead dnf
with Eric Herring
irish paul 25/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Andy F
Circus 20/Sep/09 Lead dog

I need to climb more cracks...

james.lane 14/Sep/09 2nd dog

The last move is silly hard

with Adam
Hidden 03/Sep/09 Lead dog
pedropierre 03/Sep/09 2nd

This was a classic. Rob lead and fell from 4 meters gear pinged. he lead again and dogged to the top. I managed a clean second - somehow

with Rob the Doc
PaulTclimbing ?/Mar/09 -
with Dan, Nona, Howell graham, Pete, Jon, Nick, BDT
Christian Reynish 10/Feb/09 -

My first aid

DafSWMC 10/Feb/09 -

Aided at C1.

guy xavier percival 10/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with paul
cornishben 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Didn't think this was E3, very well protected the whole way, vs/hvs for the most part then 1/2 6a moves to the top.. E1/2 6a? admittedly clipping a shiny new lower off half way through the crux helps..

with Haggis Harris
John Southworth 09/Feb/08 Lead RP
with Alex Jakubowski
Paul Robertson 06/Feb/08 Lead

Clipped the lower-off out of control and grabbed the quick-draw. Does that count?

with BPM
Hidden 29/Jan/08 Lead O/S
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
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Ground Up
Flashed (β)
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